Page 151 of 152 FirstFirst ... 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 LastLast
Results 3,751 to 3,775 of 3785
  1. #3751
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    863
    I'm trying to mount someone's Tyrolia Adrenalins for her kid. But I'm too stupid to understand wtf is happening with the paper template. Why are there two sets for the heel. I mean, obviously, one is for the entire heel unit and one is just for the rear 4-hole plate that's attached to the heel lever, but I don't see why I need two copies of that.

    In any event, all the holes line up just fine, but I can't figure out the distance between the heel unit and the toe. It should be a single distance but the templates follow the more traditional alpine method where the distance varies depending on boot sole length. I'm sure I could trash more 2x4s and figure it out eventually, but can anyone save this jong some time and explain wtf my dense noggin is missing?

    And there's some metal plate that appears to go under the rear 4-hole unit, probably to make it slide better?

    Quote Originally Posted by daught View Post
    Walk away. The adrenalins are finicky and a stupid shop can really fuck up. Watch out if you use the supplied template, the creases can move the plates from where they should be. I would print a new template.

  2. #3752
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sikskiyou's
    Posts
    1,376
    I mounted two pairs of these, in size small, a few months ago. I didn't use the template that is linked, but after looking at it I "think" I've got it.

    If your bindings are size small, overlap the 2nd page over the 1st and align the left side (small) scale (matching the BSL values). Then overlay the 3rd page with the "Heel #1 pattern" on top of the 2nd page Heel #1 pattern. The "Adrenalin" text and 4 holes for Heel 1 should match up. "Heel #2" is the same distance from Heel #1 for small and large bindings. The distance from the toe to Heel 1, however, does change with small vs large binding size.

    The metal plate does go under the 4-hole heel unit 1. There is a front/back and bottom/top.

    I found the bindings a little finicky to install, but they have been great in the performance department. Up and down.

    Not sure if this is helpful, but I ended up placing a boot in the binding and marking out the holes on a 2x4. Did a mount there and made sure it all worked correctly before moving to skis. Once I had the boot in the binding, and heel unit 2 lined up, it started to make a lot more sense.
    fun hater.

  3. #3753
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    452
    .

  4. #3754
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    863
    Thanks! I ended up measuring the spacing between the two sets of holes -- fwiw, for small bindings, the rear toe holes are 27.5 cm in front of the most forward holes on the heel unit, i.e., the front holes of the 4-hole plate. I then just marked boot center on the binding and measured from there.

    For that 4-hole heel plate, I assume the ribbed side faces up. Is the narrow section positioned towards the toes and the wider section towards the back of the ski? That's what I'm assuming.

    Next problem, these are 155 cm Faction Jr. skis (3.5 x 7.5 drill bit), so I'm going to have to shave about 1.5mm off each screw, find shorter ones, or dimple the bases. This kid has been saving his chore money for these puppies, so I'm going to try to avoid dimpling. With alpine bindings, you might be able to get away with regular screws, but these heel plates go way back on the skis and they're wafer thin back there.

  5. #3755
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sikskiyou's
    Posts
    1,376
    Quote Originally Posted by dschane View Post
    Thanks! I ended up measuring the spacing between the two sets of holes -- fwiw, for small bindings, the rear toe holes are 27.5 cm in front of the most forward holes on the heel unit, i.e., the front holes of the 4-hole plate. I then just marked boot center on the binding and measured from there.

    For that 4-hole heel plate, I assume the ribbed side faces up. Is the narrow section positioned towards the toes and the wider section towards the back of the ski? That's what I'm assuming.

    Next problem, these are 155 cm Faction Jr. skis (3.5 x 7.5 drill bit), so I'm going to have to shave about 1.5mm off each screw, find shorter ones, or dimple the bases. This kid has been saving his chore money for these puppies, so I'm going to try to avoid dimpling. With alpine bindings, you might be able to get away with regular screws, but these heel plates go way back on the skis and they're wafer thin back there.
    Nice.

    Yep - for the plate - ribbed side up and the short tails of the "H" facing tip. Just as you described. I messed that part up on the first binding, but the holes are evenly spaced on that heel unit. I just backed the screws out, flipped the plate, and drove the screws back in.

    I'm not sure it matters too much for the plate facing front/back, but the ribbed side up definitely works smoother. There's still a good bit of friction - I have a real hard time switching to tour mode without a ski pole or long screwdriver for leverage. I wouldn't want it any looser, though. As-is, the binding feels solid and secure.
    fun hater.

  6. #3756
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sikskiyou's
    Posts
    1,376
    ^^^^and those bindings are suuuuper long. My wife's skis are 156, and things were getting pretty thin back there. No dimpling, but dang...
    fun hater.

  7. #3757
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    863
    Thanks again.

    And yeah, there's very little girth left in the rear of the Jr. skis for the heel pieces. I'm going to shave down the screws. They are already pretty short and they recommend drilling 7mm deep on the heel for adult skis, so it may not go well on the standard length screws.

  8. #3758
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    863
    Found some short screws and shaved the 4 middle ones for the heel plate since those seem specialized for the lock mechanism to slide underneath. Came out fine:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-6389.jpg 
Views:	50 
Size:	1.40 MB 
ID:	325618

    But, as I was adjusting the toe height on one of the bindings, I noticed that the adjusting screw had some play in it. I couldn't figure out why but the effect is that I couldn't close the gap between the pad of the boot toe and the pad of the binding toe, even after moving the binding toe as high as possible. Rather than just spaced enough for a piece of paper to be pulled out, there is maybe a mm of light. It's perfect on the other binding.

    Is the kid going to die?

  9. #3759
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by dschane View Post
    Found some short screws and shaved the 4 middle ones for the heel plate since those seem specialized for the lock mechanism to slide underneath. Came out fine:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG-6389.jpg 
Views:	50 
Size:	1.40 MB 
ID:	325618

    But, as I was adjusting the toe height on one of the bindings, I noticed that the adjusting screw had some play in it. I couldn't figure out why but the effect is that I couldn't close the gap between the pad of the boot toe and the pad of the binding toe, even after moving the binding toe as high as possible. Rather than just spaced enough for a piece of paper to be pulled out, there is maybe a mm of light. It's perfect on the other binding.

    Is the kid going to die?
    Yes

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  10. #3760
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    1,673
    Quote Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain View Post
    Mounted two pairs of my fucking skis. Good stuff in this thread.

    Finding center
    Attachment 324717

    Marking
    Attachment 324718

    Tapped out
    Attachment 324719
    Glued and screwed
    Attachment 324721

    Testing
    Attachment 324720

    Voila
    Attachment 324722

    Attachment 324723
    I hope there’s liquor in that fruity looking beverage of yours otherwise your mount is all fucked up

  11. #3761
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
    Posts
    1,871
    lotsa vodka.. love my vodka grapefruits.

  12. #3762
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    4,110
    Got bored today working. So I said fuck it and spent some time mounting my buddies skis.

    Thanks for the Shift mount beta.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	95730479_2885595264850419_4879197240414961664_n.jpg 
Views:	123 
Size:	1.36 MB 
ID:	327570

  13. #3763
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    66
    Mounted my Bent Chetler 120s with inserts for Wardens and Zeds, both at -3cm from recommended. Not sure how much I'll end up skiing these in the resort, but it was a fun little project (first time mounting with inserts).

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3856.jpg 
Views:	74 
Size:	1.11 MB 
ID:	331058

  14. #3764
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    749
    Can confirm that mounting metal skis with a jigarex still sucks.

    Anyone have a Salomon STH2 jig I can buy?

  15. #3765
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    506
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    Can confirm that mounting metal skis with a jigarex still sucks.

    Anyone have a Salomon STH2 jig I can buy?
    What's bad about it, out of curiosity? I've never used a jigarex for anything.

  16. #3766
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    749
    The jigarex doesn’t clamp on to the ski very hard and also comes loose easily with pressure and vibration. Even with quick clamps holding the plates and jig to the ski it still moves(I always use these).

    Never a problem with wood core skis and works great, but every time I mount a metal ski it’s a gamble and I have to be really careful and precise.

  17. #3767
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    2,302
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    The jigarex doesn’t clamp on to the ski very hard and also comes loose easily with pressure and vibration. Even with quick clamps holding the plates and jig to the ski it still moves(I always use these).

    Never a problem with wood core skis and works great, but every time I mount a metal ski it’s a gamble and I have to be really careful and precise.
    How good is your 4.1 metal bit? If it's sharp you should not need to apply any more pressure than with a 3.6 on wood skis.

  18. #3768
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    749
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    How good is your 4.1 metal bit? If it's sharp you should not need to apply any more pressure than with a 3.6 on wood skis.
    Almost new SVST stepped bit(maybe 3 pairs mounted with it), but I guess I’ll order another new one and see if it makes a difference next time.

  19. #3769
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    1,874
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    Almost new SVST stepped bit(maybe 3 pairs mounted with it), but I guess I’ll order another new one and see if it makes a difference next time.
    One thing I started doing with my Jrex is opening and closing the clamps several times before I really lock it down. Sometimes it feels like the gears stick a bit (since new) and I get a better grip on the ski that way. I also hold the jig to the ski while I drill just in case. Haven't had any misques yet.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  20. #3770
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    749
    I clamp the jigarex using quick clamps like in the photo below.
    I also place squares made from excess skin material under the edges of the jigarex so it doesnt bob up and down like it does on some skis depending on the profile/core thickness.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	D7FD5466-2097-4364-B249-686A183AC212.jpeg 
Views:	59 
Size:	328.5 KB 
ID:	331134

  21. #3771
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Golden B.C.
    Posts
    329
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    I clamp the jigarex using quick clamps like in the photo below.
    I also place squares made from excess skin material under the edges of the jigarex so it doesnt bob up and down like it does on some skis depending on the profile/core thickness.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	D7FD5466-2097-4364-B249-686A183AC212.jpeg 
Views:	59 
Size:	328.5 KB 
ID:	331134
    Good tip on the skins. I've had good success with the jigga using this method. Set up the jigga (get feet close/slightly on sidewalls, then tighten down nobs, then tighten handles to grab ski) then lightly running the drill through all the holes leaving small dimples. Then take jigga off and measure all dimples to make sure correct. Put jigga back on and drill 1 hole in the front and insert old drill bit through jigga into hole. Then do the same for one hole in back. Now jigga locked in place and look through holes before drilling to confirm still over dimple. Has worked really well.

  22. #3772
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    749
    I use a similar method, but just use a centerhole punch to make dimples instead of drilling. Punch, take the jigga off and measure, use the center punch to recenter jigg, then drill, but still when metal is involved it sometimes doesnt go well. I’ll give the tightening method a try

  23. #3773
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    3,800
    Print a template on to a transparent sheet and forget all this unreliable shit. More of you guys complain about the jigarex than it's worth.

    And drink some fuckin beers out there while you work. Jeebus

  24. #3774
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    1,673
    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    Print a template on to a transparent sheet and forget all this unreliable shit. More of you guys complain about the jigarex than it's worth.

    And drink some fuckin beers out there while you work. Jeebus
    Transparent sheet sounds like a lot of work. Paper + 6 pack O’hops for sure does the job

  25. #3775
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    749
    I cant drill straight

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •