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  1. #3576
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ottawa
    Posts
    324


    New boots have a 315 bsl, old have a 313bsl, should I adjust the forward pressure to get it perfect or is this close enough?
    Quote Originally Posted by jlboyell View Post
    Climate change deniers should be in the same boat as the flat earthers, ridiculed for stupidity.

  2. #3577
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Sandy
    Posts
    1,992

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyg82 View Post


    New boots have a 315 bsl, old have a 313bsl, should I adjust the forward pressure to get it perfect or is this close enough?
    The indicator on fks's is fairly useless. You are likely within range still but do a search for how to adjust pivot fwd pressure on here or google to check.

    Edit: here ya go. Probably more than you want to know lol.

    P18 Pivot FKS forward pressure - ignore the indicator?
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=308131

  3. #3578
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    217
    That thread takes some time to digest but you should be in pretty good shape by the time you finish it and play with your pivots a bit. I definitely wouldn’t go by the indicator and wouldn’t assume that new boots (or old boots, for that matter) have proper fwd pressure


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #3579
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Sandy by the front
    Posts
    1,925
    My wife's new Moment Bella's, she is lovin them.Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #3580
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Nottingham, UK
    Posts
    945
    Here's the set-up to redrill skis that have a 50% overlap will the new holes and the existing ones. Using QK/BF inserts means that the new insert will encapsulate the old hole. Old holes wooden plugged/epoxied and fully cured and then a use a short 6.5mm end mill in a collett (ie very rigid so no deflection/run-off) to plunge cut the new hole. I only needed to do this on one pair of holes but if I'd offset the whole mount (Guardian) to give the required clearance then another two pairs of holes would have been in conflict.

    I realise that not everyone has a mill or has access to one but it can be done.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Spyderjon; 02-29-2020 at 10:28 AM.

  6. #3581
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    452
    If STH bindings were mounted on the line and I reuse some of the holes for a warden mount, will the warden mount be on the line? Assuming same boot bsl

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  7. #3582
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,966
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    If STH bindings were mounted on the line and I reuse some of the holes for a warden mount, will the warden mount be on the line? Assuming same boot bsl

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    If the 1st mount was STH2 and you're reusing the back toe holes, I believe the answer is yes.

  8. #3583
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    5,710
    ^ Yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Spyderjon View Post
    Here's the set-up to redrill skis that have a 50% overlap will the new holes and the existing ones.
    I've done that several times (with and without using inserts in the new holes), with the only difference being the old holes are plugged with aluminum #12AB screws that get cut off flush. Tapping the new holes cuts threads into the threaded aluminum plugs, so the whole thing is super bomber.

    Problem is I found just one box of aluminum #12AB screws in an old hardware store, and haven't been able to find any more, anywhere. Eventually, might have to just use stainless (or brass if I can find it) #12AB or regular ski screws in the old holes, and make the new holes right next to the threaded steel plugs instead of overlapping. It'll also be tougher to cut off steel screws flush without heating them up enough to ruin the expoxy. Hacksaw instead of Dremel.

  9. #3584
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    452
    What's the recommendation for doing some major bending on brakes? I got some warden demos for a great deal on ebay but they're brake size wasn't listed. Looks like they're about 100mm wide. Do I have any shot of getting them on protests?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  10. #3585
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    506
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    What's the recommendation for doing some major bending on brakes? I got some warden demos for a great deal on ebay but they're brake size wasn't listed. Looks like they're about 100mm wide. Do I have any shot of getting them on protests?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    You can probably do it, but it might be easier to swap 'em on here. There's a healthy brake swap thread going. They're shared with STH2s and Guardians/Trackers as well, so there are a bazillion out there.

    If you're in Seattle, I'd swap you for a pair of 130s.

  11. #3586
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    You can probably do it, but it might be easier to swap 'em on here. There's a healthy brake swap thread going. They're shared with STH2s and Guardians/Trackers as well, so there are a bazillion out there.

    If you're in Seattle, I'd swap you for a pair of 130s.
    Lucky day, I am in Seattle. Pm'd

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  12. #3587
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    3,930
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    Lucky day, I am in Seattle. Pm'd

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Can you post a pic of the brakes?

    I bought some non-MNC warden demos and the brake assembly and brake arms are completely different from the usual kind and can't be swapped... it actually a single metal assembly.

    The MNC may be different... not sure.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  13. #3588
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Can you post a pic of the brakes?

    I bought some non-MNC warden demos and the brake assembly and brake arms are completely different from the usual kind and can't be swapped... it actually a single metal assembly.

    The MNC may be different... not sure.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Huh. I'm curious to hear if mine are the non-swappable kind as well


    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  14. #3589
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    375
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    Huh. I'm curious to hear if mine are the non-swappable kind as well


    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Those are swappable STH2, Warden, Guardian, etc.. But they look more 90 mm than 100 mm to me.

  15. #3590
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    94
    I've only mounted alpine downhill bindings. Is there any difference in the process for tech bindings, specifically marker kingpins?

  16. #3591
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,344
    Quote Originally Posted by aguo5520 View Post
    I've only mounted alpine downhill bindings. Is there any difference in the process for tech bindings, specifically marker kingpins?
    For a tech binding i have cut n paste the following a few times :

    " You can use a template or not but first figure out where fore/aft to mount the heel and put it at dead center, then mount the toe dead center by ONE screw only, allow the toe to VERY slightly rotate around that 1 screw, mark/drill all the rest of the toe piece screws with the boot locked into ski mode and everything should line up perfectly

    this will ^^ work for any frame type AT binding where you mount the heel and toe independently but they need to lineup/mesh

    perfectly "

    BUT the Kingpin is different than other tech bindings becuz it does not have pins at the heel,

    BUT you would still need the boot to be centered

    SO i think you want to do the same allowing the toe to rotate around 1 screw and have the heel comedown dead center before drilling the toe piece screws
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #3592
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    3,930
    Quote Originally Posted by SoooL View Post
    Those are swappable STH2, Warden, Guardian, etc.. But they look more 90 mm than 100 mm to me.
    Agreed.

    This is what my weird non-MNC brakes look like. No idea why they would make this one different.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  18. #3593
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    71
    I mounted up my own bindings for the first time last night - Here's a report on my experience.

    Skis are K2 Wayback 96 184cm and bindings are ATK FR14. The bindings had been mounted on a different set of skis but I reconfigured my quiver to have a light touring ski and a heavier touring/travel ski.

    I took the ATK paper template and converted it into a set of 3d printed drill guides. Accuracy of this particular printer is very strong so I had no concerns about that. The guides were designed to have all the info in the paper template - cross lines for the toe and heel, center points and directional markers.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    After I received the skis I realized that they had these raised edges marking the titanal mounting plate - some checks with the calipers confirmed they were symmetric about the center. I designed some channels on the underside of the guides to have them lock in to the mounting ridges.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now let me stop and mention that this is all WAY OVERKILL! I just had the ability and the tools and decided to try it this way.

    With my custom made jigs and tools in hand I set out to do the mount. I taped up the skis longitudinally and marked the center with the guides - then I checked the center with the paper fold method in a few spots and confirmed I was where I needed to be.

    I marked the manufacturers suggested mount point and then measured out +2cm for my mount point. Using the boot and its center mark to get the distance to the toe pins, I set my cross line for the toe piece (tape across the ski) - At this point I transitioned to the ski vise and got my tools together for the mount. Checklist: Drill, bit (4.1x9), tap, quick grips, bindings and screws, glue, pz3 driver, beer.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Set up the jig on the center line with the transverse points on the toe pin line. Clamped in place with a quick grip and drilled the holes. Not much to say there except that the jigs worked good. I'd put a metal insert in the guide holes if I was doing more than 1 pair of skis. Tapped and cleared the holes of debris, glue and screw the toe piece.

    With the toe piece in place I mounted up the boot - checked the heel center against the center line at the rear and taped the rear transverse line.

    Repeat the front steps with the rear jig - points for center and transverse lines came in handy again.

    On initial pass I didn't tighten the heel enough on the fist ski and then as I was checking I noticed it wasn't all the way down. Rookie mistake and easily fixed.

    Here's a picture of the final product, time to go ski on them!

    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #3594
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    331
    Those ATKs are sexy bindings. Cool idea with the 3d printed guide!

  20. #3595
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    217
    Definitely overkill but well done!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  21. #3596
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Posts
    71
    My plan in the future is to decouple the guides and the drilling process. The guides were super useful for setting up the toe position and getting the holes all in the right spot relative to each other, but after one ski I knew that you didn't need the guide to drill the holes at all.

    The next version will just be a plate, with the centerline pointers with the holes set for the centerpunch size. Might work on a self centering design for the plate to work on any ski. Will be much cheaper and faster to print.
    Last edited by IanCH; 03-04-2020 at 07:32 PM.

  22. #3597
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Sandy by the front
    Posts
    1,925
    14th pair of Moments in the family, (wife, sons, DIL's granddaughter etc) maybe I need counseling? These are my new groomer skis to go along with the Deathwish and Deathwish tour.Click image for larger version. 

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  23. #3598
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Posts
    1

    Adjusting Marker iPT Lowride binding (Volkl Deacon 80)

    I just got a new skis delivered and it seems the Marker bindings are different from ones I have used in the past. Since I can't seem to find instructions online for these bindings, I would appreciate any help.
    No front screw: My understanding is that since they are "grip walk" bindings there is no way to adjust the friction plate. Is this true? Am I just not seeing it?
    No back screw: Instead there is a hex key. It seems that when I turn the hex key it does not loosen/tighten the binding, but instead moves the latch which can be used to slide the back binding forward and backward.
    The DIN is currently set to the correct value.


    Thank you!

  24. #3599
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sun Valley, ID
    Posts
    1,835
    Quote Originally Posted by IanCH View Post
    My plan in the future is to decouple the guides and the drilling process. The guides were super useful for setting up the toe position and getting the holes all in the right spot relative to each other, but after one ski I knew that you didn't need the guide to drill the holes at all.

    The next version will just be a plate, with the centerline pointers with the holes set for the centerpunch size. Might work on a self centering design for the plate to work on any ski. Will be much cheaper and faster to print.
    I’d take a set of next gen fr14 Mount guides....

  25. #3600
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    3,408
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Agreed.

    This is what my weird non-MNC brakes look like. No idea why they would make this one different.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    It’s because they’re demo bindings


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

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