Results 3,551 to 3,575 of 6863
-
02-14-2020, 05:49 PM #3551
-
02-14-2020, 06:10 PM #3552
-
02-14-2020, 06:43 PM #3553
-
02-15-2020, 09:58 AM #3554
2 of my slowest and most careful mounts to date (wtb Solly jig!). The rustlers had to accommodate 313bsl grom and 293 bsl wife. Looks like I ended up with 288-318mm. Phew...
Goats, was just anal to make sure I got right on the line, splitting the difference between my 318mm and 313mm shells... So on the line at 316.5mm. wardens were my first and only Solly binding until yesterday. Now I have to buy one of them damn dedicated pozi screwdrivers. Shoulda fuckin loaded up on wardens when they were $129.
-
02-15-2020, 06:13 PM #3555
Able to mount the xenics with my jigarex using the vipec/tecton plates. Heel track is the same and front 2 holes on the toe are the same width. Had to move the jig back 15mm for the front 2 holes to be in place for the boot center to be at suggested. Screwed in the front 2 screws with the toe piece and punched and drilled the rear toe holes. Things are pretty light. Have drilled into a metal top sheet/torsion box/binding mount reinforcement for ages. I can feel why. Once the screws go threw the metal it feels like air in there. A bit unnerving from what im used to screwing into.
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
-
02-18-2020, 07:15 PM #3556
-
02-18-2020, 07:36 PM #3557
-
02-19-2020, 11:02 AM #3558Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2020
- Posts
- 2
Toe height issues with iso 9523
Wondering if anyone else has had this issue or found a solution. When setting up iso 9523 touring soles in a MNC binding (technically compatible) I have been using the old piece of paper trick to set the correct toe height/ toe pressure. I get the pressure right on the bench, but then when I go to ski there is excessive up and down play between the toe peice and friction plate. I end up cranking the toes down until there is minimal play, but later when they are back on the bench there seems to be way too much toe pressure. I have consistently had this issue with Dalbello (Lupo soles) and Scarpa (Vibram rally sole) in Atomic, Salomon, Tyrolia, and Marker MNC bindings.
Is there a value for how much force should be on the toe? I don't want to buy the technical publication for 138 bucks from ANSI [forum wont let me post link] but am wondering if anyone has found a torque value for the toe pressure screw in various bindings or any other method to achieve the correct pressure.
-
02-19-2020, 01:33 PM #3559
-
02-19-2020, 01:55 PM #3560Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2016
- Posts
- 1,406
-
02-19-2020, 02:05 PM #3561Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,043
I often use a big screwdriver to pry between boot sole & ski or AFD to accomplish the same thing
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
02-20-2020, 11:32 AM #3562Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2020
- Posts
- 2
-
02-20-2020, 01:06 PM #3563
You're going to die, better send them to me for appropriate disposal.
Happens all the time, doesn't matter.
-
02-20-2020, 01:52 PM #3564
The plastic was broken on my Pivots, extending to a screw hole. (Poor packing for shipment.) I had no problem having them replaced.
-
02-20-2020, 07:54 PM #3565Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2020
- Posts
- 2
modified paper binding test for iso 9523
Found a nice 300 page research article on touring boots. Long story short the rubber sole has more friction and block tread has less contact area with the paper which prematurely stresses the paper and creates extra resistance when doing the pull out test.
Simple solution: use two pieces of paper and pull out the "sandwhiched" strip. I'll get them torque tested this weekend and see how this method holds up!
-
02-21-2020, 10:08 AM #3566Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,043
and when boot sole & AFD ^^ gets wet with snow & water the amount of friction is different again
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
02-25-2020, 08:49 PM #3567Registered User
- Join Date
- Feb 2010
- Posts
- 795
I am mounting my own fucking skis, as I usually do.
3rd mount with inserts, low on real estate.
I put the Outlaw right over the vipec holes, and 2 seemed to match perfectly. Screwed it in, easy peasy.
That makes life easy- I use the binding as a jig for the other foru, good to go.
Except........ I printed a couple templates. The Outlaw spacing is actually 1.9mm wider. I know that, like any binding, the Outlaw screw holes accept screws that are a little bigger than the 5 mm machine screws.
The screws went in easy. Anybody do anything like this before? Anybody think this will fuck with the plastic on the Oulaw?
-
02-27-2020, 02:07 PM #3568
-
02-27-2020, 02:17 PM #3569
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
The indicator on fks's is fairly useless. You are likely within range still but do a search for how to adjust pivot fwd pressure on here or google to check.
Edit: here ya go. Probably more than you want to know lol.
P18 Pivot FKS forward pressure - ignore the indicator?
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...d.php?t=308131
-
02-27-2020, 02:43 PM #3570Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
- Posts
- 757
That thread takes some time to digest but you should be in pretty good shape by the time you finish it and play with your pivots a bit. I definitely wouldn’t go by the indicator and wouldn’t assume that new boots (or old boots, for that matter) have proper fwd pressure
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
02-29-2020, 09:53 AM #3571AF
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- Sandy by the front
- Posts
- 2,345
-
02-29-2020, 10:08 AM #3572
Here's the set-up to redrill skis that have a 50% overlap will the new holes and the existing ones. Using QK/BF inserts means that the new insert will encapsulate the old hole. Old holes wooden plugged/epoxied and fully cured and then a use a short 6.5mm end mill in a collett (ie very rigid so no deflection/run-off) to plunge cut the new hole. I only needed to do this on one pair of holes but if I'd offset the whole mount (Guardian) to give the required clearance then another two pairs of holes would have been in conflict.
I realise that not everyone has a mill or has access to one but it can be done.
Last edited by Spyderjon; 02-29-2020 at 11:28 AM.
-
03-01-2020, 01:27 PM #3573Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2016
- Posts
- 1,406
If STH bindings were mounted on the line and I reuse some of the holes for a warden mount, will the warden mount be on the line? Assuming same boot bsl
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
-
03-01-2020, 01:32 PM #3574
-
03-01-2020, 04:02 PM #3575
^ Yes.
I've done that several times (with and without using inserts in the new holes), with the only difference being the old holes are plugged with aluminum #12AB screws that get cut off flush. Tapping the new holes cuts threads into the threaded aluminum plugs, so the whole thing is super bomber.
Problem is I found just one box of aluminum #12AB screws in an old hardware store, and haven't been able to find any more, anywhere. Eventually, might have to just use stainless (or brass if I can find it) #12AB or regular ski screws in the old holes, and make the new holes right next to the threaded steel plugs instead of overlapping. It'll also be tougher to cut off steel screws flush without heating them up enough to ruin the expoxy. Hacksaw instead of Dremel.
Bookmarks