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  1. #3551
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    10,758
    You need to put some glue in there. I find epoxy the best at sealing the hole and resisting degrading over the years, but if all you have is outdoor wood glue it's fine. If you think you might pull the bindings off in a year or two to sell the skis then wood glue is easier to break free.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  2. #3552
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,344
    Quote Originally Posted by billyhoyle View Post
    Standard gorilla glue expands like a motherf*cker. Do not use. Gorilla wood glue is fine though if wood glue is your thing. I use a lepage 2 part slow cure marine epoxy. Seems to work well.
    will it blow the top sheet off the ski ?

    , the shop owner who mounted my 120's used ureathane glue

    DPS used to recommend gorrila on pure carbon wailers and would not warranty wood glue

    all them dentists out there are on ticking time bombs

    ureathane glue is water seeking so when it finds water it expands, i spit in some binding holes and used gorrila to glue in loose fitting dowel, in the morning all the pieces of dowel had been puked up on to the top sheet ... pretty funny
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #3553
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,344
    Quote Originally Posted by prsboogie View Post
    I know this is going to sound stupid, repetitive or whatnot but does the collective epoxy regular Alpine screws in virgin mounts?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    yes but we are old fat anal retentive dentists, consider there are literaly millions of alpine skis out there mounted with wood glue by spaced out ski bums
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #3554
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    G Falls
    Posts
    339
    If mounting skis with carbon, absolutely use epoxy. And tap.

  5. #3555
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    1,021
    Quote Originally Posted by billyhoyle View Post
    Standard gorilla glue expands like a motherf*cker. Do not use. Gorilla wood glue is fine though if wood glue is your thing. I use a lepage 2 part slow cure marine epoxy. Seems to work well.
    I do t use gorilla glue, it's designed to foam to fill cracks. I have switched to roo glue, non water based for melamine. Shop uses it. It's cheap and easy like a jersey girl.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    Nothing in the ski industry is ever as it seems or is being made out to be - unless you were just buried in an avalanche.

  6. #3556
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,344
    I seen a vid of factory race guys prepping a bunch of SL/GS race stock for the high end racers they might have been screwing into a foam double deck but they didnt bother with any glue at all
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #3557
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    1,874
    I use Roo glue usually and do not have skis with carbon. Thanks for the info!!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  8. #3558
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,500
    The more roo-glued screws I pull out of old mounts, the more I've decided to go back to marine epoxy. No failures and no issues, but it's not any harder to remove screws than with zero adhesive. Maybe that's desirable in some situations. Or maybe I'm just getting stronger as I age.

  9. #3559
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    226
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    they didnt bother with any glue at all
    ive heard the main reason for glue in binding holes is for lubrication of the screw upon installation

    water sealing is mainly provided by the screw itself, any sealing from the glue is a bonus

    ive always used a good quality wood glue with excellent results, ymmv

  10. #3560
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,813
    Quote Originally Posted by detuned View Post
    ive heard the main reason for glue in binding holes is for lubrication of the screw upon installation

    water sealing is mainly provided by the screw itself, any sealing from the glue is a bonus

    ive always used a good quality wood glue with excellent results, ymmv
    Functions of glue is to lube screw and provide water seal, absolutely

  11. #3561
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    7,664
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    yes but we are old fat anal retentive dentists, consider there are literaly millions of alpine skis out there mounted with wood glue by spaced out ski bums
    Plus the occasional dry hole.

    Quote Originally Posted by detuned View Post
    ive heard the main reason for glue in binding holes is for lubrication of the screw upon installation

    water sealing is mainly provided by the screw itself, any sealing from the glue is a bonus
    I would argue that it's both, but yes definitely.

    My only gripe with using glue is rusty screws. But when I worked in the shop that's all we used.

  12. #3562
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,500
    2 of my slowest and most careful mounts to date (wtb Solly jig!). The rustlers had to accommodate 313bsl grom and 293 bsl wife. Looks like I ended up with 288-318mm. Phew...

    Goats, was just anal to make sure I got right on the line, splitting the difference between my 318mm and 313mm shells... So on the line at 316.5mm. wardens were my first and only Solly binding until yesterday. Now I have to buy one of them damn dedicated pozi screwdrivers. Shoulda fuckin loaded up on wardens when they were $129.

  13. #3563
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
    Posts
    10,733
    Able to mount the xenics with my jigarex using the vipec/tecton plates. Heel track is the same and front 2 holes on the toe are the same width. Had to move the jig back 15mm for the front 2 holes to be in place for the boot center to be at suggested. Screwed in the front 2 screws with the toe piece and punched and drilled the rear toe holes. Things are pretty light. Have drilled into a metal top sheet/torsion box/binding mount reinforcement for ages. I can feel why. Once the screws go threw the metal it feels like air in there. A bit unnerving from what im used to screwing into.Click image for larger version. 

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    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  14. #3564
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    112
    4Frnt Hojis mounted on the line with shifts

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #3565
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    612
    Quote Originally Posted by RockinB View Post
    If mounting skis with carbon, absolutely use epoxy. And tap.
    ^^ I've followed this and have had good success. Typically drill with 3.6 then tap.
    Also have been able to remove epoxy screws without the need for any heat.

  16. #3566
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    2

    Angry Toe height issues with iso 9523

    Wondering if anyone else has had this issue or found a solution. When setting up iso 9523 touring soles in a MNC binding (technically compatible) I have been using the old piece of paper trick to set the correct toe height/ toe pressure. I get the pressure right on the bench, but then when I go to ski there is excessive up and down play between the toe peice and friction plate. I end up cranking the toes down until there is minimal play, but later when they are back on the bench there seems to be way too much toe pressure. I have consistently had this issue with Dalbello (Lupo soles) and Scarpa (Vibram rally sole) in Atomic, Salomon, Tyrolia, and Marker MNC bindings.

    Is there a value for how much force should be on the toe? I don't want to buy the technical publication for 138 bucks from ANSI [forum wont let me post link] but am wondering if anyone has found a torque value for the toe pressure screw in various bindings or any other method to achieve the correct pressure.

  17. #3567
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    13,332
    Quote Originally Posted by md46d0 View Post
    When setting up iso 9523 touring soles in a MNC binding (technically compatible) I have been using the old piece of paper trick to set the correct toe height/ toe pressure. I get the pressure right on the bench, but then when I go to ski there is excessive up and down play between the toe peice and friction plate.
    Have you tried putting the lean lock mechanism in downhill mode and pulling hard backwards on the back of the boot cuff top before you do the paper test?

  18. #3568
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    452
    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post
    Have you tried putting the lean lock mechanism in downhill mode and pulling hard backwards on the back of the boot cuff top before you do the paper test?
    This. Pull the toe of your boot up to make sure it's seated against the top of the binding and then set the afd height. Took me a couple tries to figure this out on shifts.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  19. #3569
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,344
    I often use a big screwdriver to pry between boot sole & ski or AFD to accomplish the same thing
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3570
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    2

    Safe to mount these new Pivots?

    I just got some new Pivot 14s and noticed that on one heel piece there is a piece of plastic backing one of the mounting screws that is cracked. Are these safe to mount and use still?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by ORick; 02-20-2020 at 12:01 PM. Reason: adding picture

  21. #3571
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    506
    You're going to die, better send them to me for appropriate disposal.



    Happens all the time, doesn't matter.

  22. #3572
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
    Posts
    1,420
    The plastic was broken on my Pivots, extending to a screw hole. (Poor packing for shipment.) I had no problem having them replaced.

  23. #3573
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Posts
    2

    modified paper binding test for iso 9523

    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post
    Have you tried putting the lean lock mechanism in downhill mode and pulling hard backwards on the back of the boot cuff top before you do the paper test?
    Found a nice 300 page research article on touring boots. Long story short the rubber sole has more friction and block tread has less contact area with the paper which prematurely stresses the paper and creates extra resistance when doing the pull out test.

    Simple solution: use two pieces of paper and pull out the "sandwhiched" strip. I'll get them torque tested this weekend and see how this method holds up!

  24. #3574
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    20,344
    and when boot sole & AFD ^^ gets wet with snow & water the amount of friction is different again
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #3575
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    668
    I am mounting my own fucking skis, as I usually do.

    3rd mount with inserts, low on real estate.

    I put the Outlaw right over the vipec holes, and 2 seemed to match perfectly. Screwed it in, easy peasy.

    That makes life easy- I use the binding as a jig for the other foru, good to go.

    Except........ I printed a couple templates. The Outlaw spacing is actually 1.9mm wider. I know that, like any binding, the Outlaw screw holes accept screws that are a little bigger than the 5 mm machine screws.

    The screws went in easy. Anybody do anything like this before? Anybody think this will fuck with the plastic on the Oulaw?

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