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  1. #3526
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    212
    One last thing, what would you recommend for slow set epoxy for this purpose? I searched for an old TGR thread and there were way too many recommendations.

  2. #3527
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,404
    Quote Originally Posted by abcdethan View Post
    One last thing, what would you recommend for slow set epoxy for this purpose? I searched for an old TGR thread and there were way too many recommendations.
    I just use this stuff cause it's always in stock at home depot and its 24-hour cure. But do whatever XXX-er recommends.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-...2001/100670610

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  3. #3528
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,028
    well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use

    in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get

    In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil

    BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat them
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #3529
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    212
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use

    in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get

    In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil

    BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat them
    Don't worry, I can manage that. Thanks for the concise info. Really helpful.

  5. #3530
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    13,385
    G/Flex from West Marine is the same stuff.

    I'll just add that the pullout strength is from the wood itself. The epoxy is to prevent water intrusion.

  6. #3531
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,028
    well if a hole is completeley stripped, so you cram it with slowset & FG cuz there isnt any wood left,

    the epoxy is doing > water curtailment
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #3532
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    142
    Has anyone mounted a Faction Candide 2.0 using a 3.6 bit? Recommended is a 4.1 but no metal. Jus go with the 3.6?
    Last edited by Galbi; 02-13-2020 at 01:31 AM.

  8. #3533
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    5,691
    Quote Originally Posted by Galbi View Post
    Has anyone mounted a Faction Candide 2.0 using a 3.6 bit? Recommended is a 4.1 but no metal. Jus go with the 3.6?
    Why wouldn't you use the bit that's recommended?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  9. #3534
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    142
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    Why wouldn't you use the bit that's recommended?

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    I don’t have. And no time to wait for it to be shipped prior to my trip.

  10. #3535
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,887
    Quote Originally Posted by Galbi View Post
    I don’t have. And no time to wait for it to be shipped prior to my trip.
    Drill away with 3.6. I guarantee there are tons of shops that just use 3.6 on all their mounts.

  11. #3536
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    142
    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    Drill away with 3.6. I guarantee there are tons of shops that just use 3.6 on all their mounts.
    Sort of what I was leaning toward. Or 5/32 and tape.

  12. #3537
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    758
    Yup, fire away with the 3.6


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  13. #3538
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    142
    Quote Originally Posted by waxloaf View Post
    Yup, fire away with the 3.6


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    shootz

  14. #3539
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    I use a 3.6 and always tap the hole. The tap will work with every ski (although it's been a while since I've had a metal top layer) and I never have to wonder about the recommended bit.

    The above doesn't help the current situation, but why wait until 2 days before the next trip to have the same problem?
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  15. #3540
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    362
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use

    in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get

    In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil

    BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat them
    Standard gorilla glue expands like a motherf*cker. Do not use. Gorilla wood glue is fine though if wood glue is your thing. I use a lepage 2 part slow cure marine epoxy. Seems to work well.

  16. #3541
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    2,391
    I know this is going to sound stupid, repetitive or whatnot but does the collective epoxy regular Alpine screws in virgin mounts?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  17. #3542
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    G Falls
    Posts
    400
    I always do. It’s hardly any extra work and I’m so much more confident in epoxy than anything else. It’s probably just a peace of mind thing but I do think epoxy is superior

  18. #3543
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,757
    You need to put some glue in there. I find epoxy the best at sealing the hole and resisting degrading over the years, but if all you have is outdoor wood glue it's fine. If you think you might pull the bindings off in a year or two to sell the skis then wood glue is easier to break free.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  19. #3544
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,028
    Quote Originally Posted by billyhoyle View Post
    Standard gorilla glue expands like a motherf*cker. Do not use. Gorilla wood glue is fine though if wood glue is your thing. I use a lepage 2 part slow cure marine epoxy. Seems to work well.
    will it blow the top sheet off the ski ?

    , the shop owner who mounted my 120's used ureathane glue

    DPS used to recommend gorrila on pure carbon wailers and would not warranty wood glue

    all them dentists out there are on ticking time bombs

    ureathane glue is water seeking so when it finds water it expands, i spit in some binding holes and used gorrila to glue in loose fitting dowel, in the morning all the pieces of dowel had been puked up on to the top sheet ... pretty funny
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3545
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,028
    Quote Originally Posted by prsboogie View Post
    I know this is going to sound stupid, repetitive or whatnot but does the collective epoxy regular Alpine screws in virgin mounts?

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    yes but we are old fat anal retentive dentists, consider there are literaly millions of alpine skis out there mounted with wood glue by spaced out ski bums
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #3546
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    G Falls
    Posts
    400
    If mounting skis with carbon, absolutely use epoxy. And tap.

  22. #3547
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    2,549
    Quote Originally Posted by billyhoyle View Post
    Standard gorilla glue expands like a motherf*cker. Do not use. Gorilla wood glue is fine though if wood glue is your thing. I use a lepage 2 part slow cure marine epoxy. Seems to work well.
    I do t use gorilla glue, it's designed to foam to fill cracks. I have switched to roo glue, non water based for melamine. Shop uses it. It's cheap and easy like a jersey girl.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    I <heart> hot tele-moms

  23. #3548
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,028
    I seen a vid of factory race guys prepping a bunch of SL/GS race stock for the high end racers they might have been screwing into a foam double deck but they didnt bother with any glue at all
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #3549
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Masshole
    Posts
    2,391
    I use Roo glue usually and do not have skis with carbon. Thanks for the info!!

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
    Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.

  25. #3550
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    The more roo-glued screws I pull out of old mounts, the more I've decided to go back to marine epoxy. No failures and no issues, but it's not any harder to remove screws than with zero adhesive. Maybe that's desirable in some situations. Or maybe I'm just getting stronger as I age.

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