Results 3,526 to 3,550 of 6863
-
02-12-2020, 03:11 PM #3526Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2018
- Posts
- 213
One last thing, what would you recommend for slow set epoxy for this purpose? I searched for an old TGR thread and there were way too many recommendations.
-
02-12-2020, 03:27 PM #3527Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2016
- Posts
- 1,408
I just use this stuff cause it's always in stock at home depot and its 24-hour cure. But do whatever XXX-er recommends.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-...2001/100670610
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
-
02-12-2020, 03:48 PM #3528Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,056
well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use
in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get
In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil
BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat themLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
02-12-2020, 03:58 PM #3529Registered User
- Join Date
- Dec 2018
- Posts
- 213
-
02-12-2020, 04:35 PM #3530
G/Flex from West Marine is the same stuff.
I'll just add that the pullout strength is from the wood itself. The epoxy is to prevent water intrusion.
-
02-12-2020, 04:48 PM #3531Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,056
well if a hole is completeley stripped, so you cram it with slowset & FG cuz there isnt any wood left,
the epoxy is doing > water curtailmentLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
02-12-2020, 09:55 PM #3532Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Posts
- 142
Has anyone mounted a Faction Candide 2.0 using a 3.6 bit? Recommended is a 4.1 but no metal. Jus go with the 3.6?
Last edited by Galbi; 02-13-2020 at 01:31 AM.
-
02-13-2020, 04:26 PM #3533
-
02-13-2020, 05:07 PM #3534Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Posts
- 142
-
02-13-2020, 05:23 PM #3535
-
02-13-2020, 05:58 PM #3536Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Posts
- 142
-
02-13-2020, 06:03 PM #3537Registered User
- Join Date
- Nov 2018
- Posts
- 758
Yup, fire away with the 3.6
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
02-13-2020, 08:23 PM #3538Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Posts
- 142
-
02-13-2020, 09:16 PM #3539
I use a 3.6 and always tap the hole. The tap will work with every ski (although it's been a while since I've had a metal top layer) and I never have to wonder about the recommended bit.
The above doesn't help the current situation, but why wait until 2 days before the next trip to have the same problem?Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
-
02-14-2020, 10:29 AM #3540Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2011
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
- Posts
- 362
-
02-14-2020, 11:01 AM #3541
I know this is going to sound stupid, repetitive or whatnot but does the collective epoxy regular Alpine screws in virgin mounts?
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile appWhy don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.
-
02-14-2020, 11:11 AM #3542
I always do. It’s hardly any extra work and I’m so much more confident in epoxy than anything else. It’s probably just a peace of mind thing but I do think epoxy is superior
-
02-14-2020, 11:14 AM #3543
You need to put some glue in there. I find epoxy the best at sealing the hole and resisting degrading over the years, but if all you have is outdoor wood glue it's fine. If you think you might pull the bindings off in a year or two to sell the skis then wood glue is easier to break free.
"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
-
02-14-2020, 11:15 AM #3544Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,056
will it blow the top sheet off the ski ?
, the shop owner who mounted my 120's used ureathane glue
DPS used to recommend gorrila on pure carbon wailers and would not warranty wood glue
all them dentists out there are on ticking time bombs
ureathane glue is water seeking so when it finds water it expands, i spit in some binding holes and used gorrila to glue in loose fitting dowel, in the morning all the pieces of dowel had been puked up on to the top sheet ... pretty funnyLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
02-14-2020, 11:18 AM #3545Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,056
-
02-14-2020, 12:26 PM #3546
If mounting skis with carbon, absolutely use epoxy. And tap.
-
02-14-2020, 01:11 PM #3547
-
02-14-2020, 01:52 PM #3548Registered User
- Join Date
- Mar 2008
- Location
- northern BC
- Posts
- 31,056
I seen a vid of factory race guys prepping a bunch of SL/GS race stock for the high end racers they might have been screwing into a foam double deck but they didnt bother with any glue at all
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
-
02-14-2020, 04:07 PM #3549
I use Roo glue usually and do not have skis with carbon. Thanks for the info!!
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile appWhy don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.
-
02-14-2020, 04:46 PM #3550
The more roo-glued screws I pull out of old mounts, the more I've decided to go back to marine epoxy. No failures and no issues, but it's not any harder to remove screws than with zero adhesive. Maybe that's desirable in some situations. Or maybe I'm just getting stronger as I age.
Bookmarks