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  1. #3476
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    667
    Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    For the life of me I can't get my binding to sit flush on the ski. Trimmed the small volcano with a chisel. Sits flat until I get a couple of turns in then it lifts up just a touch. Can't keep it flush with finger strength, should I clamp it? Still seems like an indication something is up.

    Advice?

    QUOTE=LeoK;5862804]Advice: don't worry too much (at least if the gap is sub .5mm or so). Make sure to seal all screws properly.[/QUOTE]

    Not sure I agree with this.
    If it sat flush, then moved, it will move more. And, depending on how you ski, leverage on a tele binding can be considerable.

  2. #3477
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    16,390
    Quote Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    Did not tap it. They are old Rosignol T3 Tele skis. Couldn't find much info. Looked like some metal when I drilled them.

    Mounting speed turns and it's just one heel piece that's a problem. Am I reading that maybe the threading on the heel piece is contributing?
    I had this problem with mounting Dynafits where the screws were tight in the bindings. I drilled out the interference in the bindings (making the screws fit normally like in every other binding) and they mounted much more easily.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  3. #3478
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,439
    Quote Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    Did not tap it. They are old Rosignol T3 Tele skis. Couldn't find much info. Looked like some metal when I drilled them.

    Mounting speed turns and it's just one heel piece that's a problem. Am I reading that maybe the threading on the heel piece is contributing?
    I'm wasn't sure if a screw could be pulling up a metal sheet/plate without creating a visible volcano. But yeah, if the heel is threaded, sounds like chupacabra is on the right track.

    If there is a thread channel already established in the hole in the ski, and if the screw has no freedom to rotate in the binding hole without advancing (due to being threaded), then it will lift the binding heel just slightly as the screw threads take a moment to line up with the threads in the hole. Conversely, if you clamped it in this situation, you'd just ream out the existing threads and have a nice spinner to show for it.

    All of the above spoken authoritatively, but based only on imagining your issue in my mind's eye. Take it with according number of grains of salt.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  4. #3479
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    110
    Agreed, drill the holes out on the bindings until the screws spin freely in the binding holes. This is a common issue on older Dynafits, and also on the rear two holes of Tyrolia Attacks.

  5. #3480
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3
    Cleaned out the bindings holes. Problem solved. Thank you all.

  6. #3481
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    647
    Mounted my own fuckin skis last night.
    191 k2 mindbender 99ti with p18 on the line.
    Drilled, tapped & epoxied.
    Hoping these are a solid daily PNW driver for non pow days.

  7. #3482
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    350
    Quote Originally Posted by HHTELE View Post
    Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    For the life of me I can't get my binding to sit flush on the ski. Trimmed the small volcano with a chisel. Sits flat until I get a couple of turns in then it lifts up just a touch. Can't keep it flush with finger strength, should I clamp it? Still seems like an indication something is up.

    Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    Advice: don't worry too much (at least if the gap is sub .5mm or so). Make sure to seal all screws properly.
    Not sure I agree with this.
    If it sat flush, then moved, it will move more. And, depending on how you ski, leverage on a tele binding can be considerable.

    I must have been quite tired when reading the problem description. If it moves this might indeed be an issue but than I can not really help.
    Take some photos (before and after, and of the ski without the binding) and lets see if somebody has an idea!

  8. #3483
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    961
    Quote Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129 View Post
    Mounted my own fuckin skis last night.
    191 k2 mindbender 99ti with p18 on the line.
    Drilled, tapped & epoxied.
    Hoping these are a solid daily PNW driver for non pow days.
    Like

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

  9. #3484
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,093
    Mounted some Wildcat 108s last night. Besides getting the toes to slide on (got there but not easy) everything went well.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #3485
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    331
    Quote Originally Posted by rudy View Post
    Mounted some Wildcat 108s last night. Besides getting the toes to slide on (got there but not easy) everything went well.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Love those graphics. They look good with the white Shift too.

  11. #3486
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    925
    My son wripped the rear binding out of a 123 line park ski. Found the ski and binding. Screws just spin the holes. Just epoxy them in? Or redrilling for fresh holes. Second mount. I could find fresh meat for drilling... I think.
    Second pair of skis this has happened. The other pair lost in the woods because brake attached to rear binding and ski shot into woods and lost.
    I can't tell him to not butter. He's 10.
    I was going to just epoxy. They will not be remounted. Ever.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    Nothing in the ski industry is ever as it seems or is being made out to be - unless you were just buried in an avalanche.

  12. #3487
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    208
    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    My son wripped the rear binding out of a 123 line park ski. Found the ski and binding. Screws just spin the holes. Just epoxy them in? Or redrilling for fresh holes. Second mount. I could find fresh meat for drilling... I think.
    Second pair of skis this has happened. The other pair lost in the woods because brake attached to rear binding and ski shot into woods and lost.
    I can't tell him to not butter. He's 10.
    I was going to just epoxy. They will not be remounted. Ever.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Helicoil/insert or fresh holes...
    Evidently the plastic inserts are actually stronger than the metal!?


    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  13. #3488
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fort Collins
    Posts
    164
    Quote Originally Posted by jhyatt View Post
    My son wripped the rear binding out of a 123 line park ski. Found the ski and binding. Screws just spin the holes. Just epoxy them in? Or redrilling for fresh holes. Second mount. I could find fresh meat for drilling... I think.
    Second pair of skis this has happened. The other pair lost in the woods because brake attached to rear binding and ski shot into woods and lost.
    I can't tell him to not butter. He's 10.
    I was going to just epoxy. They will not be remounted. Ever.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Helicoil/Binding Freedom or remount. Doubt there's any metal, but tap the ski if there is.

  14. #3489
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    7
    Trying to remount pivots on to former demo kastle mx88’s, and I can’t find any mark indicating recommended mount line. I know the answer is “play with mount on demo clamps, mount where you like it”, but I’d like to reality check that.

    Tl;dr: anyone know the recommended line for a 178cm kastle mx88?

  15. #3490
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,439
    It's on there (probably?!). Little triangle on the sidewall. Very discreet.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  16. #3491
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Posts
    11,426
    Just did these for an amigo. Helio 105s w/ Tectons. First time I’ve dealt with Tectons, those’re interesting bindings.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And I guess that I just don't know

  17. #3492
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Under a bridge in YakTown waiting for the shuttle to Nachos
    Posts
    692
    Quote Originally Posted by chickenNugget View Post
    Trying to remount pivots on to former demo kastle mx88’s, and I can’t find any mark indicating recommended mount line. I know the answer is “play with mount on demo clamps, mount where you like it”, but I’d like to reality check that.

    Tl;dr: anyone know the recommended line for a 178cm kastle mx88?
    Triangle on left side of ski aft of serial, approximately ~100.5 on my mx98/179 s. Mine are fairly old though 2012 maybe.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  18. #3493
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Under a bridge in YakTown waiting for the shuttle to Nachos
    Posts
    692
    Snow line has been meh lately. Shop time. Pulled binders off of wife's protests. Previous mount was a little wonky and her boot maxed them out. She wanted plates, so epoxied old holes and put them on. Then put inserts in her factions and inserts in my new protests.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  19. #3494
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    413
    Mounted my own fucking skis last night. Shifts on a pair of brand new MVPs. The toe screw was a spinner on one of the skis. How much stress does the toe screw of the shift get? Should I try and remedy it or not a big deal?

  20. #3495
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    7,109
    Needs to be fixed.

  21. #3496
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    19,375
    I fix a spinner with some chopped up 1/2 " FG cloth and 2part slow set epoxy, I wet out the FG strands with epoxy but not too resin rich, cram the mix into the hole, run the screw in till I know its about to spin and leave it to cure

    After a day to cure if I can crank down the screw its no longer a spinner, a few people here on TT have fixed spinners with this method
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #3497
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    413
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I fix a spinner with some chopped up 1/2 " FG cloth and 2part slow set epoxy, I wet out the FG strands with epoxy but not too resin rich, cram the mix into the hole, run the screw in till I know its about to spin and leave it to cure

    After a day to cure if I can crank down the screw its no longer a spinner, a few people here on TT have fixed spinners with this method
    I've read this method from you a number of times. I'll just say you're a trooper for typing this out so many times. I'll give this a go and if it's still a spinner, I'll bring it into a shop for a helicoil or an insert. I don't know if I quite trust myself with that.

    Question though. So you put the screw in when the epoxy is still wet and it doesn't "over-bond" with the screw? Just making sure it's possible to take the screw out someday

  23. #3498
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    7,109
    Nope, pulling the screw out is usually easy. If it's not, you can heat the head up (just a little, don't over-do it) with the tip of a soldering iron.

  24. #3499
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    3,916
    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    I've read this method from you a number of times. I'll just say you're a trooper for typing this out so many times. I'll give this a go and if it's still a spinner, I'll bring it into a shop for a helicoil or an insert. I don't know if I quite trust myself with that.

    Question though. So you put the screw in when the epoxy is still wet and it doesn't "over-bond" with the screw? Just making sure it's possible to take the screw out someday
    You'll need to heat that screw up to remove it in the future.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  25. #3500
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    3,916
    Oops... duplicate post.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

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