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  1. #3451
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Donner Summit
    Posts
    1,251
    Quote Originally Posted by SoooL View Post
    I use the back end of drill bits for this job. Adjust to just fit a 5.5 mm, verify with 5.0 (loose fit) and 6.0 (no go).

    I'm sure there are matching murrican non metric bits that would fit the same purpose.
    7/32" = 5.56mm

  2. #3452
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    420
    All good with drill bit! Thank you.

    I am working in metrics anyway so I have no clue what you are talking about

    And went for drilling 4mm instead of the official 4.1mm. Did run the screws in and out once to reduce forces before mounting. Seems to work for movement logic-X at least.


    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3453
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,951
    Touring binders finally showed up from Europe! Brakes on ATK are tiny and flimsy, so I took them off. Weight is around 280g with screws without brakes. Total weight for ski/binder combo is 1825g for the Camox Freebird 183. I didn't set out to own a full quiver of Black Crows, thanks STP closeouts!



    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #3454
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post

    And went for drilling 4mm instead of the official 4.1mm.

    Yer gonna die!

    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    Did run the screws in and out once to reduce forces before mounting. Seems to work for movement logic-X at least.
    Don't do that. The one and only spinner I ever had was after I had too many beers mounting a sth2 heel backward and had to reverse it (i.e. effectively running the screws in and out and in again). But I suppose my sample size of (1) screw is a bit small for a scientific conclusion.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  5. #3455
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    2,668
    After skiing these in 2 ft of maritime mank yesterday I decided that I made a mistake mounting these forward.
    Certain ppl told not to, and other ppl told me I should. Glad that's over.
    4$ pack of skewers ftw with the shit I use to seam granite countertops with. Catalyzes in about 10 minutes, could pick the ski up on a single skewer after about 5 Mins.
    This is my cast set up and I let the shop mount it the first time... Fuck me I kind of butchered the first toe... Second guessed my template and ended up with a crooked screw or two on the first ski. Blah blah blah it works but not as smoothly as I'd like. I plan on doing some fine tuning with a round file so that I don't have to cuss as much on transitions...
    Looking forward to seeing how much better on the Line skis vs hanging ten

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

  6. #3456
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    1,923
    How far forward did you mount them?

  7. #3457
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    352
    Does anyone know where I can buy ski drill bits in Denver? I’m liking to do a quick mounting job and want to get my hands on bits ASAP instead of waiting around for mail.

    Let me know! Thanks.

  8. #3458
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    2,668
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    How far forward did you mount them?
    It was supposed to be +2 but that was the shop, I ended up moving back almost an inch so IRL shop 2cm is closer to 2.5 or 3...
    Too far forward for my fat ass on a powder ski... Another reason to mount your own fucking skis

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

  9. #3459
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    Yer gonna die!



    Don't do that. The one and only spinner I ever had was after I had too many beers mounting a sth2 heel backward and had to reverse it (i.e. effectively running the screws in and out and in again). But I suppose my sample size of (1) screw is a bit small for a scientific conclusion.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    The wild snow recommendations for mounting pin-binders screws around a lot more
    They felt super tight anyways through the carbon layer. I think I am good but I will report back if I rip those things out.

  10. #3460
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Inside the Circle
    Posts
    4,167
    Mounted a pair of Attack 14 ATs on Liberty V92s yesterday. Easy as pie. I love that Tyrolia uses the same hole pattern on every binding I've ever used. SkiEssentials review said there were metal mounting plates under the heel/toe of the ski but I didn't see any metal shavings like I usually do when mounting skis with metal. Glad I went with the smaller bit first.

  11. #3461
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3

    Can't get binding to sit flush on ski

    For the life of me I can't get my binding to sit flush on the ski. Trimmed the small volcano with a chisel. Sits flat until I get a couple of turns in then it lifts up just a touch. Can't keep it flush with finger strength, should I clamp it? Still seems like an indication something is up.

    Advice?

  12. #3462
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    For the life of me I can't get my binding to sit flush on the ski. Trimmed the small volcano with a chisel. Sits flat until I get a couple of turns in then it lifts up just a touch. Can't keep it flush with finger strength, should I clamp it? Still seems like an indication something is up.

    Advice?
    Did you tap it? Metal construction or metal mounting plate.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  13. #3463
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    Did you tap it? Metal construction or metal mounting plate.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

    Did not tap it. They are old Rosignol T3 Tele skis. Couldn't find much info. Looked like some metal when I drilled them.

    Mounting speed turns and it's just one heel piece that's a problem. Am I reading that maybe the threading on the heel piece is contributing?

  14. #3464
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    37
    Standard Nato round - surely you have a box of those stashed somewhere?

  15. #3465
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by teledad View Post
    7/32" = 5.56mm
    Standard Nato round - surely you have a box of those stashed somewhere?

  16. #3466
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    177
    Quote Originally Posted by ratboy View Post
    Standard Nato round - surely you have a box of those stashed somewhere?
    Thought the same thing


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  17. #3467
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    For the life of me I can't get my binding to sit flush on the ski. Trimmed the small volcano with a chisel. Sits flat until I get a couple of turns in then it lifts up just a touch. Can't keep it flush with finger strength, should I clamp it? Still seems like an indication something is up.

    Advice?
    Advice: don't worry too much (at least if the gap is sub .5mm or so). Make sure to seal all screws properly.

  18. #3468
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    795
    Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    For the life of me I can't get my binding to sit flush on the ski. Trimmed the small volcano with a chisel. Sits flat until I get a couple of turns in then it lifts up just a touch. Can't keep it flush with finger strength, should I clamp it? Still seems like an indication something is up.

    Advice?

    QUOTE=LeoK;5862804]Advice: don't worry too much (at least if the gap is sub .5mm or so). Make sure to seal all screws properly.[/QUOTE]

    Not sure I agree with this.
    If it sat flush, then moved, it will move more. And, depending on how you ski, leverage on a tele binding can be considerable.

  19. #3469
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,126
    Quote Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    Did not tap it. They are old Rosignol T3 Tele skis. Couldn't find much info. Looked like some metal when I drilled them.

    Mounting speed turns and it's just one heel piece that's a problem. Am I reading that maybe the threading on the heel piece is contributing?
    I had this problem with mounting Dynafits where the screws were tight in the bindings. I drilled out the interference in the bindings (making the screws fit normally like in every other binding) and they mounted much more easily.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  20. #3470
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    Did not tap it. They are old Rosignol T3 Tele skis. Couldn't find much info. Looked like some metal when I drilled them.

    Mounting speed turns and it's just one heel piece that's a problem. Am I reading that maybe the threading on the heel piece is contributing?
    I'm wasn't sure if a screw could be pulling up a metal sheet/plate without creating a visible volcano. But yeah, if the heel is threaded, sounds like chupacabra is on the right track.

    If there is a thread channel already established in the hole in the ski, and if the screw has no freedom to rotate in the binding hole without advancing (due to being threaded), then it will lift the binding heel just slightly as the screw threads take a moment to line up with the threads in the hole. Conversely, if you clamped it in this situation, you'd just ream out the existing threads and have a nice spinner to show for it.

    All of the above spoken authoritatively, but based only on imagining your issue in my mind's eye. Take it with according number of grains of salt.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  21. #3471
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    462
    Agreed, drill the holes out on the bindings until the screws spin freely in the binding holes. This is a common issue on older Dynafits, and also on the rear two holes of Tyrolia Attacks.

  22. #3472
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Posts
    3
    Cleaned out the bindings holes. Problem solved. Thank you all.

  23. #3473
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    798
    Mounted my own fuckin skis last night.
    191 k2 mindbender 99ti with p18 on the line.
    Drilled, tapped & epoxied.
    Hoping these are a solid daily PNW driver for non pow days.

  24. #3474
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by HHTELE View Post
    Originally Posted by PMRx View Post
    For the life of me I can't get my binding to sit flush on the ski. Trimmed the small volcano with a chisel. Sits flat until I get a couple of turns in then it lifts up just a touch. Can't keep it flush with finger strength, should I clamp it? Still seems like an indication something is up.

    Advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    Advice: don't worry too much (at least if the gap is sub .5mm or so). Make sure to seal all screws properly.
    Not sure I agree with this.
    If it sat flush, then moved, it will move more. And, depending on how you ski, leverage on a tele binding can be considerable.

    I must have been quite tired when reading the problem description. If it moves this might indeed be an issue but than I can not really help.
    Take some photos (before and after, and of the ski without the binding) and lets see if somebody has an idea!

  25. #3475
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    2,668
    Quote Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129 View Post
    Mounted my own fuckin skis last night.
    191 k2 mindbender 99ti with p18 on the line.
    Drilled, tapped & epoxied.
    Hoping these are a solid daily PNW driver for non pow days.
    Like

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

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