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  1. #3426
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Vancouver
    Posts
    123
    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    To 100% make sure it's right: test mount a 2x4, set forward pressure, measure distance between back toe holes to front heel holes, confirm where you are in the arm adjustment and adjust heel placement if necessary to get back into the middle of the adjustment range.
    Or measure off an existing mount if you are using the same boots/bindings and measure twice before you drill.

  2. #3427
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    6,043
    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    To 100% make sure it's right: test mount a 2x4, set forward pressure, measure distance between back toe holes to front heel holes, confirm where you are in the arm adjustment and adjust heel placement if necessary to get back into the middle of the adjustment range.
    The plan was to do a 2x4 mount for sure.

    I'll now do this as well.

  3. #3428
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    1,021
    Quote Originally Posted by nyskirat View Post
    Probably going to mount a FKS+CAST setup in the upcoming weeks w/ a jigarex+plates.

    Anything in particular I should be aware of when mounting this whether it's CAST or FKS related?

    I know FKS has minimal BSL adjustment relative to others which is why I ask. Figure the Jigarex may help avoid any issues but want to double check.
    I did pivots with a paper template no problem. First time mounting bindings myself. Just be careful go slowly.
    As stated I did a lumber mount first and that boosted my confidence.

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by splat View Post
    Nothing in the ski industry is ever as it seems or is being made out to be - unless you were just buried in an avalanche.

  4. #3429
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    450
    I read up thread that someone was using acetone to degrease inserts prior to epoxying. Would wife’s nail
    polish work—curious as its already on hand. Acetone based, but not sure if the other “stuff” would render it inappropriate for the job.
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  5. #3430
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    528
    Quote Originally Posted by dgilligan02 View Post
    I read up thread that someone was using acetone to degrease inserts prior to epoxying. Would wife’s nail
    polish work—curious as its already on hand. Acetone based, but not sure if the other “stuff” would render it inappropriate for the job.
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    Should do fine. There's a bunch of other crap in there, but it's mostly acetone.
    Rubbing alcohol would probably do fine too, though it's not as aggressive as the acetone.

  6. #3431
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    3,408
    I read somewhere that the human eye is good to 2mm in offset. So centering, leveling etc.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  7. #3432
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5,549
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    the situation strikes me as WAY too much drama at this point

  8. #3433
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    450
    2 of 3 insert jobs completed, thanks much for all the great info in this thread. Dynastar job was on existing holes. Liberty was virgin mount.
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  9. #3434
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Meiss Meadows
    Posts
    1,420
    Ready for tomorrow.
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  10. #3435
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,002
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Yes. I've been working on this for a while. I'm ironing out a couple design tweaks and CNC issues for production and should have more ready within a week:

    Find your ski center in seconds:

    • Place the SkiScribe diagonally on the top of the ski with the pegs against the edges in front of the binding toe piece.
    • Run the SkiScribe down the edge or make tick marks with a SHARP pencil in the center holder creating a line matching the ski's contour.
    • Rotate the SkiScribe and repeat on the other edge.
    • Repeat behind the binding heel piece.
    • Double check Ski Edge to closest line on each side for a match. Adjust if necessary.
    • Split the difference between the two lines and mark the center in front & rear locations.
    • Draw a centerline with a straight edge.
    • Place binding template or jig on ceter line and Boot Sole Center (BSL)


    The center hole I'm considering is 5/16"/8mm all the way through instead of the 2mm one shown. This is larger than a pencil diameter and wrapping tape around a pencil will remove slop.

    It can also be used to align the tap vertically (especially a Snoli Threadcutter). Since SkiScribe is made out of wood DO NOT use it as a drill guide.

    As an aside, it also works OK as a true bar.

    There are two 'rulers' laser etched into the sides. One is the same as the SlideWright Centering Ruler Sticker. The other is a new ruler to measure from the Ski Edge to the Center. The two options provide unlimited uses, including the following:

    • The Centering Ruler can quickly ballpark ski width and center relative to the ski edges at any given changing width down the ski. This can give quick reference for centerline location.
    • Measure center between two screw holes and their layout
    • Measure screw lengths directly or installed length from top of binding
    • Locate the center of odd shape or linear items up to 140mm/5 1/2"
    • A handy tool for countless uses beyond skis
    Any update on when these will be available? About to order some stuff. Thanks!

  11. #3436
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    298
    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    Should do fine. There's a bunch of other crap in there, but it's mostly acetone.
    Rubbing alcohol would probably do fine too, though it's not as aggressive as the acetone.
    Double check the contents list on the cosmetic acetone. I came across a bottle that had avacado oil listed.

  12. #3437
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,105
    Can anyone with more smarts than me tell me how far the holes would be to remount a pair of skis w the same binding from a 325 to a 300mm BSL? Any concerns with the holes being too close?

  13. #3438
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,500
    Sounds like about 12.5mm apart.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  14. #3439
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    528
    Quote Originally Posted by rudy View Post
    Can anyone with more smarts than me tell me how far the holes would be to remount a pair of skis w the same binding from a 325 to a 300mm BSL? Any concerns with the holes being too close?
    Edited: Oops. Somehow I read that as 325 to 330, not 300.
    Yeah 12.5mm.
    But depending on the binding pattern, the "outer" holes may be closer to the inner holes than the original "outer" set. [Thus your concern may not be with, for example, the "new" back screws for the heels interfering with the old back holes for the heel - but with the "new" back heel screws interfering with the "old" front screws holes.. I can't think of a pattern I know off-hand that's that close, but it's a factor to consider.] (I'm having a terrible time writing the description clearly - sorry for all the edits!)

  15. #3440
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    375
    Quote Originally Posted by rudy View Post
    Can anyone with more smarts than me tell me how far the holes would be to remount a pair of skis w the same binding from a 325 to a 300mm BSL? Any concerns with the holes being too close?
    What the others said, well that is, if you wanna keep the 300 boot center in the same location as the 325 was. Do you? If not, the equation needs some tweaking...

  16. #3441
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    10,758
    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    Edited: Oops. Somehow I read that as 325 to 330, not 300.
    Yeah 12.5mm.
    But depending on the binding pattern, the "outer" holes may be closer to the inner holes than the original "outer" set. [Thus your concern may not be with, for example, the "new" back screws for the heels interfering with the old back holes for the heel - but with the "new" back heel screws interfering with the "old" front screws holes.. I can't think of a pattern I know off-hand that's that close, but it's a factor to consider.] (I'm having a terrible time writing the description clearly - sorry for all the edits!)
    Let the radius from the center of the hole to the center of the torus tube be c, and the radius of the tube be a. Then the equation in Cartesian coordinates for a torus azimuthally symmetric about the z-axis is
    (c-sqrt(x^2+y^2))^2+z^2=a^2,
    and the parametric equations are
    x = (c+acosv)cosu

    y = (c+acosv)sinu

    z = asinv

    for u,v in [0,2pi). Three types of torus, known as the standard tori, are possible, depending on the relative sizes of a and c. c>a corresponds to the ring torus (shown above), c=a corresponds to a horn torus which is tangent to itself at the point (0, 0, 0), and c<a corresponds to a self-intersecting spindle torus.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  17. #3442
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    506
    Depending what you want to do with mount point you could potentially get away with moving just the toe or just the heel too. Obviously bindings with a larger BSL adjustment, and a desire for a bit of a departure on boot center would make that more viable.

  18. #3443
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    1,105
    I'd like to mount them on the line for a 300mm BSL for a Shift that was previously mounted on the line for same binding for a 325 BSL. Also, any overlap issue w the middle nubbon dealie?

  19. #3444
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    506
    Just remount 'em then. 12.5mm center to center isn't bad at all.

  20. #3445
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    1,673
    Sorry, I'm like a broken record. I just love this article and the fact that it's the only experiment I've seen that produced quantifiable results re: hole proximity vs pullout strength. 7mm center to center hole spacing and you get near 100% pullout strength.

    https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/qc-lab-remounting-previously-drilled-skis/qc-lab-remounting-previously-drilled-skis.html

  21. #3446
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    331
    Quote Originally Posted by thefortrees View Post
    Sorry, I'm like a broken record. I just love this article and the fact that it's the only experiment I've seen that produced quantifiable results re: hole proximity vs pullout strength. 7mm center to center hole spacing and you get near 100% pullout strength.

    https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/qc-lab-remounting-previously-drilled-skis/qc-lab-remounting-previously-drilled-skis.html
    That's a cool article! But super limited info on the actual process. How did they test pullout strength? Did the ski they mount have a metal layer (presumably not since they used a 3.5mm bit)?

    Note also that they mention the ski they use is known to be particularly burly, so 7mm is probably best case scenario (e.g. absolute minimum center to center distance).

    I have a beater pair I should do this on...I just need a force meter or hanging scale or something to measure the pullout force.

  22. #3447
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    1,673
    Quote Originally Posted by billyhoyle View Post
    I have a beater pair I should do this on...I just need a force meter or hanging scale or something to measure the pullout force.
    Please do this! It'd be great to see results, especially if they are vastly different from the BD experiment.

  23. #3448
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    191
    Mounted up some low tide play things
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    "bound to cover just a little more ground"

  24. #3449
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    351
    quick question:
    I'm in the process of mounting some Dynafit TLT Radical (I guess, at leat they match this template https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ufm...c4h2RAihK/view)

    -> after mounting: how much space do I leave between metal peace of the boot heal an the "head" of the binder? Or what diameter can I use instead of the official adjustment stick? (referring to this page 5: http://lequeyrassin.free.fr/TLT/Dyna...%20montage.pdf)

    Thanks a lot!

  25. #3450
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    2,302
    ^ 5.5mm

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