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  1. #3376
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Wet and/or cold will certainly not help bonding/curing

    I suspect the vid was not anywhere near recommended conditions

    Winter garage temps certainly not recommended for curing your skis — get them inside to cure overnight

  2. #3377
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,013
    So I can’t remember where I posted my kids SL race skis getting screwed up.

    Anyway. Got a deal on new skis (shop I bought them from not the shop that dimpled the bases). Had shop I bought skis from mount the new SL skis. Little rubber foot wasn’t in place on jig so holes were 3 mm to the left on both skis.

    Set number 3 on the way....these are free.

    MOUNT YOUR OWN FUCKING SKIS.

    wife now on board w me doing it.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  3. #3378
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,749
    Don't most kids race skis have raceplates?
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  4. #3379
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    Don't most kids race skis have raceplates?
    Pretty sure that's where the saga started. First shop mounted without said plates and dimpled the bases.

  5. #3380
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    17,749
    Oh my. The skis come from the factory with plates, who would take of a plate from a race ski then try to mount them flat? I guess this shop did, but that's crazy.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  6. #3381
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,712
    Indeed. Mount your own fuckin' skis, eh?

  7. #3382
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,883
    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    My biggest concern with Swiss cheese would be the inability to flex the same way as a continuous piece of wood. As far as strength goes, the glue is stronger than the wood anyway.

    I was looking for a link to back up that claim and stumbled across the following: https://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/glue.html . Not sure how scientific that is, but it's pretty fuckin interesting in the context of all the above flack.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Not very scientific and buddy was talking about ww glue 2 pieces of wood togetehr and do a shear test on the joint which is not ski mounting,

    ski mounting would be different again than even ski building
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #3383
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,013
    The very smallest sizes (129 in this case) come w “lifters” that are mounted w longer screws beneath the bindings. If you add a plate the kid isn’t heavy enough to flex them.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  9. #3384
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2,572
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    What are those? Not recognizing the topsheet. Looks like some metal in there, from the chips?
    Quote Originally Posted by FLYBOYMATTHEW View Post
    Looks like a Kastle FX106 HP.
    Yep. Pretty stoked so far
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  10. #3385
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    4,279
    It was touch and go. Mounted yet another pair of sticks last night. Hell, it was so gnarly, I had to drink two beers.

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    Think snow, you maggots!

  11. #3386
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    177
    Looks like you were shiyterz. You’ve mounted one to the bench. Double ipa no doubt.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  12. #3387
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    OR
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    1,937
    Mounted the atris for my wife. She should be stoked.

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    Re-finding center line. I use one of these and mark 2 inches in from each side (on 108 mm width ski) at 3 or 4 points up the ski and then it’s super easy to just mark the center between each of the two marks you make and straight line on the center marks.

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  13. #3388
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Posts
    2,669
    Finding center geometrically with a compass is super easy and unless you're using a micrometer potentially more accurate.
    Take your compass Trammell rod what have you and set it a distance more than half way. Spin your compass and draw a semi circle. Then go to the opposite side of the ski. With the compass set at the same width from an opposite but corresponding location draw the same but opposite semi circle. At the two points of intersection you have your centerline... Double check with a ruler should be good to go.

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk

  14. #3389
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher View Post
    Finding center geometrically with a compass is super easy and unless you're using a micrometer potentially more accurate.
    Take your compass Trammell rod what have you and set it a distance more than half way. Spin your compass and draw a semi circle. Then go to the opposite side of the ski. With the compass set at the same width from an opposite but corresponding location draw the same but opposite semi circle. At the two points of intersection you have your centerline... Double check with a ruler should be good to go.

    Sent from my I3123 using Tapatalk
    The last time I tried this technique, I had trouble finding reliable, repeatable points to pivot the compass about. What did you use for your "opposite but corresponding location"? The ledge formed by the ski's edge? What did you reference your ruler to when verifying? Several people I know use edge of the top sheet, but that's too variable for my tastes.

    On a related note, I picked up a pair of combo squares last week. I haven't used them yet, but the concept looks as solid as it's reported to being.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  15. #3390
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    4,865
    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    The last time I tried this technique, I had trouble finding reliable, repeatable points to pivot the compass about. What did you use for your "opposite but corresponding location"? The ledge formed by the ski's edge? What did you reference your ruler to when verifying? Several people I know use edge of the top sheet, but that's too variable for my tastes.
    I make sure the ski is flat on the bench, and put the compass point on the bottom of the edge where it meets the bench.

  16. #3391
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    My last few mounts I did without templates, I just used a combo square to get a reliable measurement from the base edge and then adjusted so that calipers were on center for each screw hole from either side. Top sheets would have given me a different result by a millimeter or two.

    On that note, how many of you think you can tell when a binding is a millimeter or two off the center line?




    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    Mounted the atris for my wife. She should be stoked.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Re-finding center line. I use one of these and mark 2 inches in from each side (on 108 mm width ski) at 3 or 4 points up the ski and then it’s super easy to just mark the center between each of the two marks you make and straight line on the center marks.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Why not just trace the triangle from both sides and Mark where they intersect?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  17. #3392
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,883
    I don't think anyone could feel 1 mm

    Cool ! an even simpler way to mark ski center ^^ hold the T square against the steel edges, draw the 45 degree lines and where they intersect will be ski center so NO measuring but its always good to check by measuring

    And so you have realized a template is really not necessary, IME one can just use the actual binding as the template for the holes, the bigger question is where to put those pieces fore-aft on the ski ?

    For the toe its easier, so I find and mark the boot center on the boot, I use the square on ski top to line the boot center up with ski center or where ever I want boot center to be on the ski, mark and drill

    After the toe where to mount the heel is more of a head scratcher, or more acurately where to have the rear binding in its adjustment range when you drill is where a template is nice but not necessary, take/make the measurement between front and rear screw holes the same on either ski, if I can measure that distance on a shop mounted ski that the binding had been mounted on I will use that
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #3393
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    1,887
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I don't think anyone could feel 1 mm

    Cool ! an even simpler way to mark ski center ^^ hold the T square against the steel edges, draw the 45 degree lines and where they intersect will be ski center so NO measuring but its always good to check by measuring

    And so you have realized a template is really not necessary, IME one can just use the actual binding as the template for the holes, the bigger question is where to put those pieces fore-aft on the ski ?

    For the toe its easier, so I find and mark the boot center on the boot, I use the square on ski top to line the boot center up with ski center or where ever I want boot center to be on the ski, mark and drill

    After the toe where to mount the heel is more of a head scratcher, or more acurately where to have the rear binding in its adjustment range when you drill is where a template is nice but not necessary, take/make the measurement between front and rear screw holes the same on either ski, if I can measure that distance on a shop mounted ski that the binding had been mounted on I will use that
    Yep, that's exactly what I do when it comes to boot center and toe piece. If it's a ski that my kid (27.5) and wife (25.5) might share, I'll cheat him a half cm back of center and her a half cm forward (i.e. mount the ski for a 303 - 305mm-ish shell). I find that if I clamp the toe piece where I want it and slide the engaged heel piece onto the back of the boot with hand pressure with the binding near the upper end of it's adjustment range for the 27.5 boot, it leaves a few extra clicks of adjustment by the time forward pressure is set, and plenty of range to accommodate the shorter boot ( assuming the typical 20-24mm adjustment range).

    What a fucking terrible run-on sentence. Hopefully that made sense.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  19. #3394
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,883
    yeah I take a size 24 so I got a small BSL so I tend to mount the heel piece track further back to accomadate a longer BSL in the case someone wants to use them in future but really the only thing I am very interested in knowing is the measurement between front and rear screw holes

    I am mounting usually on a 185 so with a shorter BSL I will be mounting closer to the boot center than the usual 185 on a ski that is also longer which is a better situ than a tall or big person wtih big feet

    Really ski mounting is all just good layout so if you understand what is going on a template isnt so necessary

    I watched a carpenter buddy mount my skis, he had been a ski tech/ mounted thousands of ski back in the day but this was free hand and he was pretty fast
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3395
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    OR
    Posts
    1,937

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post

    Why not just trace the triangle from both sides and Mark where they intersect?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    I get paranoid I won’t be at same point and the side cut will screw me. But that’s reasonable

    You skiing today. It’s good.

  21. #3396
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,197

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    All these methods of finding center boil down to the mounter eyeballing two spots opposite each other (side to side) on the ski: creating a “perpendicular” line to set up the measure, even the jigs aren’t foolproof in this regard

    The further apart you make your center marks on the ski, the more centered your centerline will be, assuming symmetrical edge cuts inside/outside

  22. #3397
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,883
    I would draw a line across the ski with the T-square (from both sides if sidecut worries you ) and that line is where you start your 45 degree lines

    Always check it with the t-square before you drill anything
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #3398
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    OR
    Posts
    1,937

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    I only tape the middle of the ski with painters tape for marking it. I am clearly doing it wrong as I see how that would work. Goals for next time

  24. #3399
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
    Posts
    11,701
    If you’re not finding your center down to the atomic level you’ll never be a good skier.

  25. #3400
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,883
    Quote Originally Posted by klauss View Post
    I only tape the middle of the ski with painters tape for marking it. I am clearly doing it wrong as I see how that would work. Goals for next time
    tape it anywhere you are marking holes, even if you cover the whole top of the ski a roll of painters tape is like 2$
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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