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  1. #3351
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    If the dowel is a little oversized, you can chuck it in a drill and sand down. Using corse sandpaper will also provide a bit more texture for the epoxy to bond to. I make mine so they are just slightly loose, dab the hole with epoxy then tap in. Also, I pre cut mine to length, a half mm below top sheet height then make sure that epoxy covers the exposed wood.
    That's probably the neatest way but I'm too lazy for all that measuring and exact cutting. I just leave them long as pictured, then buzz the tops off with a hand saw once the epoxy cures, then just touch the tops down with a drill bit and guide to keep it all centred to leave a little dimple to cover with more epoxy.

    I guess the downside of my method is that it involves an extra epoxy cure waiting period, but it's easy and I can do it with my brain switched off and/or full of bourbon.

  2. #3352
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Going to be 35 holes in each of these fuckers once I'm done with them, so figured I better patch up the old ones.
    You are most certainly going to die. But I'll be doing a similar thing in the next couple weeks. Are you doing anything special for the bindings you're about to mount because of all the holes? Inserts?
    How did you remove the plastic plugs? Drill them out with a drill bit or are you doing something whacky with that screw?

  3. #3353
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    Dec 2019
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    Had some luck last week mounting my skis.

    Thanks to the PowderGuide templates!

    Used Titebond III Ultimate and the wintersteiger 4.1 bit. Freehanded the holes with a drill.
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  4. #3354
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    Quote Originally Posted by brundo View Post
    You are most certainly going to die. But I'll be doing a similar thing in the next couple weeks. Are you doing anything special for the bindings you're about to mount because of all the holes? Inserts?
    How did you remove the plastic plugs? Drill them out with a drill bit or are you doing something whacky with that screw?
    Well, they're for my girlfriend, so I'm not going to die.


    I drilled a shallow pilot hole in the plugs, put the screw in, and used that to yank the plugs out. I haven't figured out exactly where my mount holes are going to land yet, but I'll either do just a normal mount or maybe helicoils in select locations if they're especially sketchy.

  5. #3355
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    That's probably the neatest way but I'm too lazy for all that measuring and exact cutting. I just leave them long as pictured, then buzz the tops off with a hand saw once the epoxy cures, then just touch the tops down with a drill bit and guide to keep it all centred to leave a little dimple to cover with more epoxy.

    I guess the downside of my method is that it involves an extra epoxy cure waiting period, but it's easy and I can do it with my brain switched off and/or full of bourbon.
    I'm all about easy...
    My method for cutting to size is to put the plug into the hole, spin it and scribe with a sharp xacto blade, then carefully cut just under the line with a fine coping saw blade.

  6. #3356
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACH View Post
    I'm all about easy...
    My method for cutting to size is to put the plug into the hole, spin it and scribe with a sharp xacto blade, then carefully cut just under the line with a fine coping saw blade.
    That works too. I'm sure we're ending up with a very similar final result.

  7. #3357
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    That works too. I'm sure we're ending up with a very similar final result.
    For sure...
    I just dislike working with epoxy, so I have an incentive to get it all done in a single step.

  8. #3358
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    Oct 2015
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    446

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Anyone ever seen the need to grind down the head diameter on BF sourced heel screws for STH2 inserts?

    Seems on heel plate rear holes the screws dont seat down super well into the recess. Leaving less thread exposed vs the fronts.

    First timer so I may be unnecessarily concerned; perhaps the rubbery underside compresses more than Im thinking. Believe I read somewhere were looking for 4-5 threads engagement?

    Screw length seems okay.

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    Last edited by dgilligan02; 12-31-2019 at 12:09 PM.

  9. #3359
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    Yeah. Chuck the screw in a drill and reduce the diameter (not the height) of the head against a file/die grinder/belt sander.

    The stock screws are small heads, which have become unobtanium in M5 screws for inserts.

  10. #3360
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    Quote Originally Posted by oetk2 View Post
    Threaded dowels? If no, do you open up the holes at all to match the dowel size or just hammer them in there?
    Bamboo barbecue sqewers are the right size to fill binding screw holes
    and possibly there is a whole bag of them already in your kitchen

    IMO Once you drill a hole you have cut the main structure of the ski but there is enough structure in the rest of the ski to carry the load so until you get past 3 sets of holes there should be enough structure to support you without breaking,

    Threaded dowels are sexy as hell but I suspect it adds almost zero strength

    But you do wana seal that hole so usually I cut dowels flush with a razor knife or chisel after the epoxy cures, if the ski tops are dark I color the end of the dowel with a black sharpie, slather a lttle more epoxy over that for extra sealing, the ski will be sealed and the ends of the dowels will be quite un-noticable from any distance, often a binding will be covering the end of the dowel any how so you won't see the end
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #3361
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    Nov 2014
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    Bought a few Swiss cheese skis over the years and mounted about that close. In one case I even drilled half of the old repaired hole. I would not use epoxy for that.

    Instead: wood dowel + actual Tite bond wood glue...

    Never had a spinner and I cranked pretty damn hard on the suspect holes. I've even taken the bindings off of those skis several times. No issues.

    I use roo glue or epoxy to mount the actual bindings, but Swiss cheese repairs are designed to emulate wood, and that's exactly what Tite Bond wood glue is designed to do. I'm not a chemical engineer and maybe someone has a smarter thought, but this has worked very well in the most precarious of mounting situations (i.e. overlapping holes).



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  12. #3362
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    Sep 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    Instead: wood dowel + actual Tite bond wood glue...
    ...
    I use roo glue or epoxy to mount the actual bindings, but Swiss cheese repairs are designed to emulate wood, and that's exactly what Tite Bond wood glue is designed to do.
    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Not trying to beat you up and it's hard to argue with real-life experience ... but I'll simply note that PVA glues like Tite Bond have *very low* strength in situations where it's filling a gap. [meaning a joint that exceeds a few thousandths of an inch.] Epoxy is vastly better.

    Funny enough, I saw a recent glue comparison, and CA glues actually beat out epoxies in a really wide variety of tests. I'm not sure that data applies to skis and plugging old holes, but it was certainly interesting. The CA glues seriously kicked ass in nearly every application - even the cheap dime-store CA glue was pretty damn incredible.

    Anyway - IMO, plugging old holes is almost by definition a gap-filling operation and the long cure times and gap filling abilities of epoxy seem the most ideal.

    The other issue is water infiltration. PVA glues are terrible when exposed to water. Using them to permanently plug holes would greatly concern me. Using a PVA to seal the screw threads still seems less than ideal, but far less critical then sealing a previous mounting hole.

    Again, it's hard to argue with what's worked. I'm glad it's worked out for you. I, personally, would not choose PVA for plugging old mounts.

    Edited to add:
    And the glue bond in a ski, when filling an old mount hole, is essentially end-grain to side grain. (The wood grain in a ski is running from tip to tail, and the dowel is running from top to bottom.) Gluing in these situations is also tricky and I'd expect an epoxy to perform better.

  13. #3363
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    Great info as usual, thanks gents

  14. #3364
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    Was a good boy this year Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #3365
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    Quote Originally Posted by CascadeLuke View Post
    Was a good boy this year Click image for larger version. 

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    What are those? Not recognizing the topsheet. Looks like some metal in there, from the chips?

  16. #3366
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    Nov 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    Not trying to beat you up and it's hard to argue with real-life experience ... but I'll simply note that PVA glues like Tite Bond have *very low* strength in situations where it's filling a gap. [meaning a joint that exceeds a few thousandths of an inch.] Epoxy is vastly better.

    Funny enough, I saw a recent glue comparison, and CA glues actually beat out epoxies in a really wide variety of tests. I'm not sure that data applies to skis and plugging old holes, but it was certainly interesting. The CA glues seriously kicked ass in nearly every application - even the cheap dime-store CA glue was pretty damn incredible.

    Anyway - IMO, plugging old holes is almost by definition a gap-filling operation and the long cure times and gap filling abilities of epoxy seem the most ideal.

    The other issue is water infiltration. PVA glues are terrible when exposed to water. Using them to permanently plug holes would greatly concern me. Using a PVA to seal the screw threads still seems less than ideal, but far less critical then sealing a previous mounting hole.

    Again, it's hard to argue with what's worked. I'm glad it's worked out for you. I, personally, would not choose PVA for plugging old mounts.

    Edited to add:
    And the glue bond in a ski, when filling an old mount hole, is essentially end-grain to side grain. (The wood grain in a ski is running from tip to tail, and the dowel is running from top to bottom.) Gluing in these situations is also tricky and I'd expect an epoxy to perform better.
    Hmm... Well, maybe it'll catastrophically fail some day.

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  17. #3367
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    .
    Funny enough, I saw a recent glue comparison, and CA glues actually beat out epoxies in a really wide variety of tests. I'm not sure that data applies to skis and plugging old holes, but it was certainly interesting. The CA glues seriously kicked ass in nearly every application - even the cheap dime-store CA glue
    And the glue bond in a ski, when filling an old mount hole, is essentially end-grain to side grain. (The wood grain in a ski is running from tip to tail, and the dowel is running from top to bottom.) Gluing in these situations is also tricky and I'd expect an epoxy to perform better.
    first of all wtf is a CA glue ? if one is going to use an acronym shouldn't one have used the complete word at least once, cuz I don't see it anywhere and I havent a fucking clue what a CA is ?

    re: the end grain to side grade and the whole idea of drilling holes in things and expecting to restore strength 100%

    lets take a 12" gluelam beam drill 31 holes of a proportional size to a binding screw, is it still OK to use in a building and would an engineer pass it ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #3368
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    Dec 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    first of all wtf is a CA glue ? if one is going to use an acronym shouldn't one have used the complete word at least once, cuz I don't see it anywhere and I havent a fucking clue what a CA is ?

    re: the end grain to side grade and the whole idea of drilling holes in things and expecting to restore strength 100%

    lets take a 12" gluelam beam drill 31 holes of a proportional size to a binding screw, is it still OK to use in a building and would an engineer pass it ?
    basically super glue

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

    google CA glue it's hip right now, especially in woodworking circles.

  19. #3369
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    Fuck I should have known that eh

    Actualy I know what superglue is

    I get tired of acronyms on TGR where I have to ask myself wtf is that ?

    rant over eh
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3370
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    Jan 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    first of all wtf is a CA glue ? if one is going to use an acronym shouldn't one have used the complete word at least once, cuz I don't see it anywhere and I havent a fucking clue what a CA is ?
    Cyanoacrylate Glue. Aka super glue and the like. CA is a pretty common term in woodworking/carpentry.

    Its not great for filling voids though and really only works well when thinly applied, so Id stick with epoxy for skis. Ymmv


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  21. #3371
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlayItLeo View Post
    Cyanoacrylate Glue. Aka super glue and the like. CA is a pretty common term in woodworking/carpentry.

    Its not great for filling voids though and really only works well when thinly applied, so Id stick with epoxy for skis. Ymmv

    ETA: well shit, dude beat me to it. Carry on.

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  22. #3372
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    Well I thot it was a chartered accountant and so I Thot I was going to have to come up with a whole new set of jokes for CA's as opposed to DDS jokes

    I'm gona start using acronyms that don't mean any thing just to fuck people's shit up
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #3373
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    Dec 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by PlayItLeo View Post
    Cyanoacrylate Glue. Aka super glue and the like. CA is a pretty common term in woodworking/carpentry.

    It’s not great for filling voids though and really only works well when thinly applied, so I’d stick with epoxy for skis. Ymmv


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ^^^ this ^^^

    It's popular with luthiers. One trick they have is to fill nut slots with a baking soda and CA glue. I saw one video where if you tapped it, it would crack like glass. Works well for fixing nuts you filed too deeply (string buzz), but sounds like the last thing you'd want to plug a ski with.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  24. #3374
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    Nov 2014
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    The tight fitting dowel plus titebond III effectively replicates the physical properties of the wood itself. The dowel is plugging the hole. The glue is holding it there. Titebond 3 is different than titebond 1. New hole for new binding is then drilled and epoxy was used for the actual mounting of said binding.

    Maybe this doesn't make sense in theory or on paper, but it worked. Definitely sounds like no one else should ever do it ever again though.

    Let's talk about minwax wood putty next!

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  25. #3375
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    EDIT: Never mind, I am in fact a hungover moron. I figured it out.

    Mounting Vipecs on the previously pictured Swiss cheese skis for Ms. HAB. Swiss bindings seemed like an appropriate pairing. Haven't dealt with these in a while. I'm probably just hungover/smoking crack, but I did a test mount and the heel is way too far back. The boot position is where I want it, so the toe is good. Did a search but didn't find much, and Fritschi's instructions are useless. Two questions:

    1. The min/max boot length adjustment markings on the heel track are meant to to be used when the heel is in ski mode, right? Since the heel piece moves on the track when you toggle between ski and walk mode I'm not sure which I'm supposed to be checking against.
    2. Actually that's my only question. I should probably just have some more coffee and do this when my brain's working well enough to count to two, huh?
    Last edited by HAB; 01-01-2020 at 01:07 PM.

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