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  1. #3126
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    9,761
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Unlikely that I'll ever bother, but the super duper overkill mounting jig that I'm making right now because I'm injured and can't ski quite yet is set up to be easily mounted in the vice on a manual mill, with the idea that I could theoretically use that for a hole pattern that I don't bother making mounting plates for.


    Normally I'll just use plates and a hand drill, like a jigarex. The whole enterprise is mostly unnecessary and overkill, but I'm bored.
    That's fine. We all love gadgets and if your thing or somebody else's thing gives someone more confidence to do something themselves, all the better. I have a burnishing tool with a walnut handle that I bought once because it looked cool. A screwdriver shaft works just fine, but I like using my walnut handled burnishing tool...until someone comes out with a new laser guided one.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  2. #3127
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC
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    1,235
    Quote Originally Posted by GeezerSteve View Post
    hmmmmm
    Should have added IMO I guess. Which is all any of us are entitled to in the end...

    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    I'm just preparing you for when the laser and CNC boys show up here and give you drill press fanboys a real shakedown.
    Now we're talking. When I was in grad school I used to spend time in a machine shop where they built ultra-high precision instruments for physical chemistry experiments. They guys there would have stabbed me in the eye if I had mentioned hand drilling anything...

    Quote Originally Posted by cstefanic View Post
    Now, with inserts I always use the press, because I've had bad experiences with a wonky drill/tap which made it impossible to get a screw in the insert.
    I may or may not have enlarged one hole in a dynafit toe piece to deal with an insert that was a bit off to the side. The head of the machine screw never sat flush with the toepiece since the insert also went in crooked. Liberal used of blue loctite has prevented issues so far.

  3. #3128
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Mid-tomahawk
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    318
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    That's fine. We all love gadgets and if your thing or somebody else's thing gives someone more confidence to do something themselves, all the better. I have a burnishing tool with a walnut handle that I bought once because it looked cool. A screwdriver shaft works just fine, but I like using my walnut handled burnishing tool...until someone comes out with a new laser guided one.
    Yeah that's really what I meant. I've mounted a lot of skis with paper templates and haven't died yet. But toys are fun and I'm going stir crazy.

  4. #3129
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Somewhere else
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    And yet more complicated than it needs to be.
    Agreed.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  5. #3130
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Somewhere else
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    3,819
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Well, I wouldn't recommend buying a drill press specifically to mount skis but the ability to drill completely vertically and on center is nice. I don't bother with using a center punch if I have a drill press as it's easy to perfectly line up the bit with the template. Without the press I center punch using something fine and pointy but the line thickness on the template means that this "pilot" is sometimes off by a couple 10th of a milliliter. It's hard to spot visually but I drill it becomes clear that the hole is a bit shifted. It's never been an issue with any of my mounts but at times I've had to first fully tighten the 3 screws which align best then put a bit of force on the 4th one which has a bit of an off-center hole.
    The press is also faster if that matters...
    I can't imagine a couple of tenths of a mm would do anything to a binding mount .

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  6. #3131
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    3,358

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Drilled by hand. Zip zip zip zip zip zip zip zip zip zip zip zip. Typically just 8 toe zips for you alpine freaks. I whack the drill point with a thick long wood screw that dimples the top sheet at the measured entry point. Double check measurements. Rewhack if adjustment necessary. The drill bit tip sits nicely in your final divet point. Greatly minimizes slippage risk. Explains the hammer in this photo. Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Doremite; 12-10-2019 at 08:42 AM.
    Uno mas

  7. #3132
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    I can't imagine a couple of tenths of a mm would do anything to a binding mount .
    On a tech toe, getting the front holes 1/10mm to the right and the rear holes 1/10mm to the left would put the heal about 2 mm off the center line, about the max tolerance for a tech mount. double that and you wouldn't be able to click the heal in. This is clearly a worst case, as your errors would more likely be random and cancel each other out. But tech binding tolerances are pretty tight.

  8. #3133
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    off on yet another Tangent
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    Quote Originally Posted by nick_B10 View Post
    On a tech toe, getting the front holes 1/10mm to the right and the rear holes 1/10mm to the left would put the heal about 2 mm off the center line, about the max tolerance for a tech mount. double that and you wouldn't be able to click the heal in. This is clearly a worst case, as your errors would more likely be random and cancel each other out. But tech binding tolerances are pretty tight.
    Which could easily be remedied by not screwing the toe tight until the boot is in the binding to tweak & align the toe with the heel. The boot can also be used as a lateral lever if needed.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  9. #3134
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NCW
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    2,386
    Tech fittings are rarely molded in “straight” anyway. It’s normally necessary to adjust the toe laterally to get the heel pins to mate up. Then tighten screws with epoxy to secure that adjustment.

  10. #3135
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Which could easily be remedied by not screwing the toe tight until the boot is in the binding to tweak & align the toe with the heel. The boot can also be used as a lateral lever if needed.

    I've never had any success with that approach, maybe i can get 1mm movement, but definitely no more than that. I find that mounting the toe, then the heal lined up with the toe is the easiest route (i'm not a good enough skier to notice my heal being 1 or 2 mm off the ski center line), and it leads to perfect engagement with the tech pins.

    Nick

  11. #3136
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
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    13,073
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    Tech fittings are rarely molded in “straight” anyway.
    I'll agree re old stamped steel 5-screw Dynafit toes, but IME newer 4-screw toes are spot on.

    FWIW, I always mount tech toes first, aligning the heel fixture screw center on my center line before working on the heel mount.

  12. #3137
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    18,976
    mount the tech heel first at dead center

    mount the toe next by one screw only

    clip the boot into front & rear while letting the toe find its happy place

    now you drill the other 3 or 4 screws

    unless you FUBARed the last part the heel should be dropping right into the rear pins
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #3138
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,000
    Haven't mounted skis in a while. Putting some Look Pivots on my new Billy Goats. I've got one of the early Jigarexs. I can't remember (or find) whether I should mount the toes on the line and then move the heals up 5 mm. I know the paper template already factors in the 5 mm difference. Not sure whether the Jigarex plate does also. Anybody mount FKS/Looks with the Jigarex want to share what they did?

  14. #3139
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    Oct 2008
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    off on yet another Tangent
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    Quote Originally Posted by bern43 View Post
    Haven't mounted skis in a while. Putting some Look Pivots on my new Billy Goats. I've got one of the early Jigarexs. I can't remember (or find) whether I should mount the toes on the line and then move the heals up 5 mm. I know the paper template already factors in the 5 mm difference. Not sure whether the Jigarex plate does also. Anybody mount FKS/Looks with the Jigarex want to share what they did?
    Do a test on a scrap. You could use the template as a comparison, too. What's your BSL?
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
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  15. #3140
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    Feb 2009
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    Boston, MA
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    Do a test on a scrap. You could use the template as a comparison, too. What's your BSL?
    BSL is 315. I'l do a test mount and also compare the template. Thanks for the suggestions.

  16. #3141
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    456
    Mounting some 104s and have choice of Pivot's w/115 brake, Griffon w/110 brake or Attack w/100 brakes.

    Q: Better to bend inward than out w/these options? assuming Griffons would likely be fine as is.

  17. #3142
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,896
    Quote Originally Posted by esseff View Post
    Mounting some 104s and have choice of Pivot's w/115 brake, Griffon w/110 brake or Attack w/100 brakes.

    Q: Better to bend inward than out w/these options? assuming Griffons would likely be fine as is.
    i just mounted a pair of 104s with Attacks w/100mm brakes and they fit fine.

  18. #3143
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    everyday sunshine
    Posts
    251
    So, I thought I was going to insert my older skis for shifts for an early season travel rig, then I took the bindings off and realized I forgot about all the old mounts!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I did find that the two rear most screws were suspect, so I at least got to set 2 inserts in these puppies.

    Also found, if anyone is interested, that the Shift and Dynafit heel share the same rear holes and the front holes are nicely spaced. The shift toe pattern is also way spread out and doesn’t conflict either.

  19. #3144
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    456
    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    i just mounted a pair of 104s with Attacks w/100mm brakes and they fit fine.
    Good to know.

    Any of three easier to mount - set fp than the others? I've mounted Attacks...easy to set.

  20. #3145
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    326
    I'm going to tap some holes for the first time tonight...not my first mount by any stretch, but my first tap. How much downward pressure do I need to put on the tap? Just a bit to get it to start biting into the metal/wood or is a fair bit of pressure required?

    I'm mounting bindings on a used pair of Candide 3.0 186...I took them for a rip on the weekend and they felt super short. Turns out the mount was a couple cm ahead of the Candide line which is already pretty forward! No wonder they felt short...I imagine they'll ski a heck of a lot better with a mount somewhere between the candide and all-mountain line.

  21. #3146
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    150
    Just a bit to get started and then it should take almost no pressure at all

  22. #3147
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by waxloaf View Post
    Just a bit to get started and then it should take almost no pressure at all
    Awesome, thanks! I'll post pics after I mount my own fucking skis.

  23. #3148
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    9,761
    Quote Originally Posted by billyhoyle View Post
    Awesome, thanks! I'll post pics after I mount my own fucking skis.
    Yes, once it bites in, it will thread itself in. Main thing to watch is that you are going in 100% vertical when you are doing inserts. When it bottoms you'll feel it.

    I've never tapped a regular screw hole. It's not necessary unless your skis are solid aluminum.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  24. #3149
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Eburg
    Posts
    13,073
    I always tap. Zeno's tests consistently held that pre-tapped screws have better pullout strength. Also, tapping gives you a more consistent feel of the minimum torque needed to turn the screw home, i.e., better than using the screw to self-tap, thus -- if done right -- tapping can virtually eliminate risk of a spinner. And, if you use epoxy, tapping might make make the ski core more receptive for the epoxy.

  25. #3150
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    326
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    Yes, once it bites in, it will thread itself in. Main thing to watch is that you are going in 100% vertical when you are doing inserts. When it bottoms you'll feel it.

    I've never tapped a regular screw hole. It's not necessary unless your skis are solid aluminum.
    I've never tapped either and I've done a couple skis with metal layers without trouble. But I'm going to give it a shot and see which method I prefer.

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