PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[SoooL]

How big of a gap is beyond the typical tolerance level? I just mounted a pair of Tyrolia's for a friend of mine that have a ~2mm gap between the heel base plate and the ski on one of the rear corners.

The screws are snugged down as far as they will go and I've confirmed that I don't have volcanoes on any of the holes.

That's common because the rear holes in the base plates are so tight. I'd remove the heels from skis, drill the rear base plate holes with a wee bit thicker drill, 5.0-5.5 mm, and re-install them on skis. 5.5 mm will match the base plate front holes.

[N1CK.]

1.5 mounts on these GPO.
Prior inserts were conflicting with a Frischi mount so I heated them up, removed them, and re-sealed with hardwood and G-Flex.
I might have to remove the original plastic plugs and repeat with the hardwood, as I'm going to be really close on the heel track.

[GBB]

That's common because the rear holes in the base plates are so tight. I'd remove the heels from skis, drill the rear base plate holes with a wee bit thicker drill, 5.0-5.5 mm, and re-install them on skis. 5.5 mm will match the base plate front holes.

That did the trick. Appreciate it.

[StupidTexan]

Mounted my own fucking skis thanks to this thread. Paper templates worked perfectly. Chamfered the holes, but still had some volcano. fixed it with a razor. I’ll definitely be tapping the holes first next time...

Heres my question. I can still see a tiny sliver of light in between the base plate and skis In the middle, maybe .1mm, but both tips of the baseplate are touching the ski. Is there any tolerance for this or should they always be sucked down completely flush?

Wont let me add a pic, but they are marker griffons on Rossi sky 7s

[skuff]

Looking to mount an FKS binding on a ski previously mounted with a Marker binding. Using 2 of the Marker toe holes would put my boot very close to boot center. The problem(?) is that the 2 Marker holes I'd like to reuse for the FKS are approximately 2mm, maybe 3mm wider than the FKS pattern. So if I split the difference, the holes are off-center by 1-1.5mm.

Can I use the Marker holes by adding chopped steel wool mixed with G-Flex epoxy? I thought I'd tighten down the screws on the 2 new, centered holes first, then carefully put the screws in the off-center holes by starting 1 screw by a thread or 2, then start the other screw by a thread or 2. Tighten each a little at a time until they're screwed in all the way?

Or am I gonna die?

[jackattack]

I’d just use glue.

Drill the new holes and mount the toe using the new holes to center then screw-in the ones you’re reusing.

[lucknau]

Heres my question. I can still see a tiny sliver of light in between the base plate and skis In the middle, maybe .1mm, but both tips of the baseplate are touching the ski. Is there any tolerance for this or should they always be sucked down completely flush?

Flush is the goal, but don’t worry too much if it isn’t. It happens often. Ought to be fine as long as one corner or side is not standing off kilter or a screw has visible threads between plate and ski.

[powbmps]

One of my toe screws (Tyrolia Aattack 13 on Elan Ripstick 106) is stripped out and rusted. Looking for some advice on how to repair???

[gregorys]

One of my toe screws (Tyrolia Aattack 13 on Elan Ripstick 106) is stripped out and rusted. Looking for some advice on how to repair???

IMO;
Easiest. Probably a new screw. [Rust in the hole isn't a good sign - one wonders how much water penetrated the core. But not much you can do about it now.] Epoxy+choppped fiberglass. Jam in the hole and make sure the hole is full of epoxy. Let cure 24-48H. You'll probably want to trim the excess hanging out of the hole - chisel or oscillating multi-tool, etc. Drill+tap again. Wet screw/hole with more epoxy and screw down. Perhaps leave just shy of fully tight, and tighten down, fully, after 24-48H.

Next easiest - for me at least - an insert. One looks wonky, but would be fine.

As noted though, worried about the core integrity and ski longevity.

[fullStack]

Had to bump these, so purty.

Attachment 303636

[powbmps]

IMO;
Easiest. Probably a new screw. [Rust in the hole isn't a good sign - one wonders how much water penetrated the core. But not much you can do about it now.] Epoxy+choppped fiberglass. Jam in the hole and make sure the hole is full of epoxy. Let cure 24-48H. You'll probably want to trim the excess hanging out of the hole - chisel or oscillating multi-tool, etc. Drill+tap again. Wet screw/hole with more epoxy and screw down. Perhaps leave just shy of fully tight, and tighten down, fully, after 24-48H.

Next easiest - for me at least - an insert. One looks wonky, but would be fine.

As noted though, worried about the core integrity and ski longevity.

Thank you, sir.

[fullStack]

My mounts have a message encoded:

[~mikey b]

these things are handier than a hole in the butt

[skuff]

I’d just use glue.

Drill the new holes and mount the toe using the new holes to center then screw-in the ones you’re reusing.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

[N1CK.]

1.5 mounts on these GPO.
Prior inserts were conflicting with a Frischi mount so I heated them up, removed them, and re-sealed with hardwood and G-Flex.
I might have to remove the original plastic plugs and repeat with the hardwood, as I'm going to be really close on the heel track.

heck. the Tectons are in no way going to work with the 2 heel mounts, short of half overlapping holes.
backup plan is Shifts which will fit, but that was second preference.

[HAB]

heck. the Tectons are in no way going to work with the 2 heel mounts, short of half overlapping holes.
backup plan is Shifts which will fit, but that was second preference.

Not even if you get funky and move the heel around (and rely on BSL adjust to correct)?

[N1CK.]

Not even if you get funky and move the heel around (and rely on BSL adjust to correct)?

From rec line to -1 or -1.5, I still have at least 2 direct hits on a prior plugged hole. I'm not so comfortable with that.

[Boissal]

these things are handier than a hole in the butt

Ohhhh I need one!
I had a lazy moment pulling some bindings last week and didn't heat the head of the epoxied screws before trying to crank them out. One of the torx screws came out easy but two gave me trouble and the last got completely mangled, I barely managed to back it out enough to grab with vice grips.
I've been using flexible epoxy (Hardman orange) instead of the faster curing more brittle ones and they really hold on to the screws, it takes an insane amount of torque to break them free.

[XXX-er]

you never know how a binding was mounted so if you get a stubborn screw use heat BEFORE you fuck up the screw, a soldering iron works good OR if you don't have an iron mount a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed on the screw head and it will generate enough heat to loosen a screw

[Timberridge]

Also if you access to a Nd:YAG laser you can focus the beam on the screw which will heat it up. Just remember to wear eye protection and keep kids and pets away from the beam.

[HAB]

From rec line to -1 or -1.5, I still have at least 2 direct hits on a prior plugged hole. I'm not so comfortable with that.

Shitty. If you can make it two direct hits on the smaller (non-insert) holes, I'd personally be pretty okay using inserts on those though. YMMV.

[XXX-er]

Also if you access to a Nd:YAG laser you can focus the beam on the screw which will heat it up. Just remember to wear eye protection and keep kids and pets away from the beam.

not very common in dentistry ...just sayin

[Boissal]

not very common in dentistry ...just sayin

Funny thing, it's easier for me to get access to a laser than a soldering iron which I'd have to go buy... I'll post a TR next time I have to pull bindings off a ski and the heavy-duty equipment gets used.
In this case I have no excuses for mangling the screw, it was my mount on my skis, I knew I should have used heat and got impatient.

[XXX-er]

Yeah you need an iron closer to 100W IME, I had a good one that burnt out and the last one I got isnt strong enough

sometimes I forget about the heat and start to mangle the screw,

heating up the screw with a lazer would be next level

[N1CK.]

Shitty. If you can make it two direct hits on the smaller (non-insert) holes, I'd personally be pretty okay using inserts on those though. YMMV.

I said direct hits but they're really just too fucking overlappy, not perfect direct hits.