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  1. #3051
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    304
    Quote Originally Posted by GBB View Post
    How big of a gap is beyond the typical tolerance level? I just mounted a pair of Tyrolia's for a friend of mine that have a ~2mm gap between the heel base plate and the ski on one of the rear corners.

    The screws are snugged down as far as they will go and I've confirmed that I don't have volcanoes on any of the holes.
    That's common because the rear holes in the base plates are so tight. I'd remove the heels from skis, drill the rear base plate holes with a wee bit thicker drill, 5.0-5.5 mm, and re-install them on skis. 5.5 mm will match the base plate front holes.

  2. #3052
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,803
    1.5 mounts on these GPO.
    Prior inserts were conflicting with a Frischi mount so I heated them up, removed them, and re-sealed with hardwood and G-Flex.
    I might have to remove the original plastic plugs and repeat with the hardwood, as I'm going to be really close on the heel track.
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  3. #3053
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Southside of heaven
    Posts
    3,006
    Quote Originally Posted by SoooL View Post
    That's common because the rear holes in the base plates are so tight. I'd remove the heels from skis, drill the rear base plate holes with a wee bit thicker drill, 5.0-5.5 mm, and re-install them on skis. 5.5 mm will match the base plate front holes.
    That did the trick. Appreciate it.

  4. #3054
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Posts
    1
    Mounted my own fucking skis thanks to this thread. Paper templates worked perfectly. Chamfered the holes, but still had some volcano. fixed it with a razor. I’ll definitely be tapping the holes first next time...

    Heres my question. I can still see a tiny sliver of light in between the base plate and skis In the middle, maybe .1mm, but both tips of the baseplate are touching the ski. Is there any tolerance for this or should they always be sucked down completely flush?

    Wont let me add a pic, but they are marker griffons on Rossi sky 7s

  5. #3055
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Vinyl Valley
    Posts
    1,082
    Looking to mount an FKS binding on a ski previously mounted with a Marker binding. Using 2 of the Marker toe holes would put my boot very close to boot center. The problem(?) is that the 2 Marker holes I'd like to reuse for the FKS are approximately 2mm, maybe 3mm wider than the FKS pattern. So if I split the difference, the holes are off-center by 1-1.5mm.

    Can I use the Marker holes by adding chopped steel wool mixed with G-Flex epoxy? I thought I'd tighten down the screws on the 2 new, centered holes first, then carefully put the screws in the off-center holes by starting 1 screw by a thread or 2, then start the other screw by a thread or 2. Tighten each a little at a time until they're screwed in all the way?

    Or am I gonna die?

  6. #3056
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    2,195

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Iíd just use glue.

    Drill the new holes and mount the toe using the new holes to center then screw-in the ones youíre reusing.

  7. #3057
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    637
    Quote Originally Posted by StupidTexan View Post
    Heres my question. I can still see a tiny sliver of light in between the base plate and skis In the middle, maybe .1mm, but both tips of the baseplate are touching the ski. Is there any tolerance for this or should they always be sucked down completely flush?
    Flush is the goal, but donít worry too much if it isnít. It happens often. Ought to be fine as long as one corner or side is not standing off kilter or a screw has visible threads between plate and ski.

  8. #3058
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    King Ridge
    Posts
    1,476
    One of my toe screws (Tyrolia Aattack 13 on Elan Ripstick 106) is stripped out and rusted. Looking for some advice on how to repair???

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #3059
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    427
    Quote Originally Posted by powbmps View Post
    One of my toe screws (Tyrolia Aattack 13 on Elan Ripstick 106) is stripped out and rusted. Looking for some advice on how to repair???
    IMO;
    Easiest. Probably a new screw. [Rust in the hole isn't a good sign - one wonders how much water penetrated the core. But not much you can do about it now.] Epoxy+choppped fiberglass. Jam in the hole and make sure the hole is full of epoxy. Let cure 24-48H. You'll probably want to trim the excess hanging out of the hole - chisel or oscillating multi-tool, etc. Drill+tap again. Wet screw/hole with more epoxy and screw down. Perhaps leave just shy of fully tight, and tighten down, fully, after 24-48H.

    Next easiest - for me at least - an insert. One looks wonky, but would be fine.

    As noted though, worried about the core integrity and ski longevity.

  10. #3060
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Puget Oceania
    Posts
    327
    Had to bump these, so purty.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lexi-Bell View Post
    Chronic Complainer Experiencing Ikon Cognitive Dissonance Since 2018

  11. #3061
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    King Ridge
    Posts
    1,476
    Quote Originally Posted by gregorys View Post
    IMO;
    Easiest. Probably a new screw. [Rust in the hole isn't a good sign - one wonders how much water penetrated the core. But not much you can do about it now.] Epoxy+choppped fiberglass. Jam in the hole and make sure the hole is full of epoxy. Let cure 24-48H. You'll probably want to trim the excess hanging out of the hole - chisel or oscillating multi-tool, etc. Drill+tap again. Wet screw/hole with more epoxy and screw down. Perhaps leave just shy of fully tight, and tighten down, fully, after 24-48H.

    Next easiest - for me at least - an insert. One looks wonky, but would be fine.

    As noted though, worried about the core integrity and ski longevity.
    Thank you, sir.

  12. #3062
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Puget Oceania
    Posts
    327
    My mounts have a message encoded:
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    Chronic Complainer Experiencing Ikon Cognitive Dissonance Since 2018

  13. #3063
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    12,235
    these things are handier than a hole in the butt

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #3064
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Vinyl Valley
    Posts
    1,082
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    Iíd just use glue.

    Drill the new holes and mount the toe using the new holes to center then screw-in the ones youíre reusing.
    Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

  15. #3065
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,803
    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    1.5 mounts on these GPO.
    Prior inserts were conflicting with a Frischi mount so I heated them up, removed them, and re-sealed with hardwood and G-Flex.
    I might have to remove the original plastic plugs and repeat with the hardwood, as I'm going to be really close on the heel track.
    heck. the Tectons are in no way going to work with the 2 heel mounts, short of half overlapping holes.
    backup plan is Shifts which will fit, but that was second preference.

  16. #3066
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    142
    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    heck. the Tectons are in no way going to work with the 2 heel mounts, short of half overlapping holes.
    backup plan is Shifts which will fit, but that was second preference.
    Not even if you get funky and move the heel around (and rely on BSL adjust to correct)?

  17. #3067
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,803
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Not even if you get funky and move the heel around (and rely on BSL adjust to correct)?
    From rec line to -1 or -1.5, I still have at least 2 direct hits on a prior plugged hole. I'm not so comfortable with that.

  18. #3068
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,093
    Quote Originally Posted by ~mikey b View Post
    these things are handier than a hole in the butt

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ohhhh I need one!
    I had a lazy moment pulling some bindings last week and didn't heat the head of the epoxied screws before trying to crank them out. One of the torx screws came out easy but two gave me trouble and the last got completely mangled, I barely managed to back it out enough to grab with vice grips.
    I've been using flexible epoxy (Hardman orange) instead of the faster curing more brittle ones and they really hold on to the screws, it takes an insane amount of torque to break them free.

  19. #3069
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    18,401
    you never know how a binding was mounted so if you get a stubborn screw use heat BEFORE you fuck up the screw, a soldering iron works good OR if you don't have an iron mount a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the chuck, run it at high speed on the screw head and it will generate enough heat to loosen a screw
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #3070
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    9,455
    Also if you access to a Nd:YAG laser you can focus the beam on the screw which will heat it up. Just remember to wear eye protection and keep kids and pets away from the beam.
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  21. #3071
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    142
    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    From rec line to -1 or -1.5, I still have at least 2 direct hits on a prior plugged hole. I'm not so comfortable with that.
    Shitty. If you can make it two direct hits on the smaller (non-insert) holes, I'd personally be pretty okay using inserts on those though. YMMV.

  22. #3072
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    18,401
    Quote Originally Posted by Timberridge View Post
    Also if you access to a Nd:YAG laser you can focus the beam on the screw which will heat it up. Just remember to wear eye protection and keep kids and pets away from the beam.
    not very common in dentistry ...just sayin
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  23. #3073
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    1,093
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    not very common in dentistry ...just sayin
    Funny thing, it's easier for me to get access to a laser than a soldering iron which I'd have to go buy... I'll post a TR next time I have to pull bindings off a ski and the heavy-duty equipment gets used.
    In this case I have no excuses for mangling the screw, it was my mount on my skis, I knew I should have used heat and got impatient.

  24. #3074
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    18,401
    Yeah you need an iron closer to 100W IME, I had a good one that burnt out and the last one I got isnt strong enough

    sometimes I forget about the heat and start to mangle the screw,

    heating up the screw with a lazer would be next level
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  25. #3075
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,803
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Shitty. If you can make it two direct hits on the smaller (non-insert) holes, I'd personally be pretty okay using inserts on those though. YMMV.
    I said direct hits but they're really just too fucking overlappy, not perfect direct hits.

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