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  1. #2776
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    2,990
    Quote Originally Posted by pisteoff View Post
    That bit that 3pin uses looks pretty slick - but spendy!

    If it's only for 'just in case' or 'once in a blue moon', you can buy a metric 4.0 or a #20 (which is 4.089 mm) regular bit at your local hardware store.

    Additionally, a reg 9/64 bit = 3.57 mm
    Good point. It's not as if I've ever drilled through a ski when using standard bits. Famous last words ;-)

    ... Thom

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  2. #2777
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Western MT
    Posts
    1,323
    Yeah, those step bits are pricey, nice though.

    I used standard 5/32 and 9/64 for years with a drill guide which worked pretty well but took a lot more time to set up (but kept me from drilling too deep). I don't even use the guide with my dedicated bit.

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  3. #2778
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Fernie and/or Smithers
    Posts
    1,208
    Can anyone explain the markings on the sidewall of these old straight Volkls?
    Seems like they are recommending mounting within this zone. Why the wide range?
    The distance between 1 and 12 is about 4cm.

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    Do what you like, Like what you do.

  4. #2779
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1,233
    When I started mounting my stuff, I put collars on normal drill bits. And while one has never come loose and drilled through a ski, I figured it was only a matter of time. Iím glad I switched. Good peace of mind. If youíre only doing 1 ski, i remember thinking 15 or $20 for a bit was ludicrous. Butttt that was years ago and countless skis since.
    I started a dating advice app because I always need advice
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  5. #2780
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    17,981
    just drill thru a wine bottle cork and slip the bit in the chuck to leave only enough drill bit to drill your hole

    I've had collars and duc-tape slip
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #2781
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Posts
    10,886
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    Look at these purdy thangs.



    Now I need to go get some orange gear.
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    damn. fly. orange never looked so good.
    Just catching up on this thread. On the right skis those G3 bindings look so good. Binding porn - I did all these:
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    And I guess that I just don't know

  7. #2782
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    473
    Not sure where to ask this so going in here:
    Where are we on turning down dins for the summer?
    Skied all day at 7 and was glad I didnt do anything dumb.

  8. #2783
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    1,929
    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    Not sure where to ask this so going in here:
    Where are we on turning down dins for the summer?
    Skied all day at 7 and was glad I didnt do anything dumb.
    What I do is...

    If the spring cylinder is obviously metal (e.g. 916's have shiny silver spring cylinders in toes and heels), then I don't turn them down for summer.

    BUT, if the spring cylinder looks plasticky, then I turn them down until that toe/heel is loose & floppy. Floppy results in zero spring force on the plastic, and floppy means there's no way you will click in without noticing. (E.G. Salomon 997 DIN=14 toes have black plastic cylinder, so YES I turn that down...but the heels on those have metal cylinders, so I don't turn down the heels.)

    .
    - TRADE your heavy BILLYGOATS or PROTESTS for my lightweight versions at this thread

    "My biggest goal in life has always been to pursue passion and to make dreams a reality. I love my daughter, but if I had to quit my passions for her, then I would be setting the wrong example for her, and I would not be myself anymore. " -Shane

    "I'm gonna go SO OFF that NO ONE's ever gonna see what I'm gonna do!" -Saucerboy

  9. #2784
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Where the climate suits my clothes.
    Posts
    4,014
    Wondering if anyone in the Boston / N. Conway area has or has access to a binding release calibrater.

    After years of mounting my own fkn skis I'm curious how some of them would torque test, especially since I am still on a couple pairs of old 997s.

    Would love a couple hours with one to test the whole quiver if I could. Mostly out of curiosity, although also safety and whatnot

    Happy to provide beer and company if you'll let me play with your tool.

    Any takers??

  10. #2785
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    2,505
    Generally in this era, skis had a toe line marking and then you just mounted the heel to appropriate BSL. There usually was no midsole indicator.

    Quote Originally Posted by gwat View Post
    Can anyone explain the markings on the sidewall of these old straight Volkls?
    Seems like they are recommending mounting within this zone. Why the wide range?
    The distance between 1 and 12 is about 4cm.

    Hmmm.Name:  image1.jpeg
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  11. #2786
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,623
    Quote Originally Posted by skimaxpower View Post
    Generally in this era, skis had a toe line marking and then you just mounted the heel to appropriate BSL. There usually was no midsole indicator.
    Pretty much Volkl and K2.
    Volkl had the schuspitze(boot toe)
    K2 had #'s that corresponded to bsl, which is what the schuhmitte(boot center)on these Volkls appear to be as well, which is a midsole line.

  12. #2787
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Driving2VT
    Posts
    3,107

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by gwat View Post
    Can anyone explain the markings on the sidewall of these old straight Volkls?
    Seems like they are recommending mounting within this zone. Why the wide range?
    The distance between 1 and 12 is about 4cm.

    Hmmm.Name:  image1.jpeg
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    Try to get the midsole line at the ~apex of the camber and see where that lines up? Probably a little art and science on this one.
    Uno mas

  13. #2788
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    the vails
    Posts
    1,911
    Just checking in to say that I taught my friend how to mount his own fucking skis and all is right in the world.

  14. #2789
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Posts
    38

    Kastle FX85 mounting

    I just got a set of Kastle FX85 (2017) for super cheap along with Tyrolia Attack2 13 bindings. There's a scary-looking sticker on the skis and I'm not sure how to proceed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's the text for searchability:

    """
    This ski does not meet ISO 8364 standard!

    For installation please regard following requirements: For drilling holes use drill bit with dimension 4.1mm x 7.5mm (Kastle art.no. EB004) and adequat screws with depth of insertion 6mm +- 0.5!

    We recommend to use glue for the screws.
    """

    Few questions here:
    1. This is a full wood ski, why are they recommending 4.1mm instead of 3.5/3.6mm? Is this because the bindings they require (their own branded stuff) have custom larger diameter screws? Any downsides to using a 3.5mm x 7.5mm bit?
    2. The Tyrolia Attack bindings have ~9mm screws. Is it safe to cut/sand them down to ~6mm? Seems awfully short and potentially affects tapability.
    3. Any recommendations on how to proceed? I'm planning on ordering a 4.1x7.5mm bit and sanding down the screws to be ~6mm protrusion.

    Picture of the ~9mm screws coming out of a set of Tyrolia Attacks:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What ~6mm looks like on the ski where I'd mount the heel pieces. I'm not convinced using a ~9mm drill bit won't work.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not sure why the pictures are rotated incorrectly but they seem to automatically rotate themselves when I upload.

    Help would be greatly appreciated

  15. #2790
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Alpental
    Posts
    5,398
    4.1mm is likely for a mounting thru a re-enforcement plate on that thin ski.

    Ie- the same binding screw works with either 3.6 or 4.1- the bindings/screws are not different for skis with/without metal, the 3.6 allows the threads to bite into the wood a bit better.

    But you may still need to grind the screws down though if the ski is too thin.
    Move upside and let the man go through...

  16. #2791
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    602
    Quote Originally Posted by lucknau View Post
    Template!
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    Sadly no beer, as my first ski (not depicted) came out a tiny bit croocked (forgot to measure center of template, hence pic two - #measureeverything!) #wops By ski 5 and 6 (w108s) the method was perfected

    The five others came out pretty well - template perfection and money saved! Sadly, due to shit fuck conditions these will not see use any time soon. Oh well

    Sorry pic three is a bit on the blurry side

  17. #2792
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    2,990
    If you look at your 8.65mm projecting screws, you'll note that about 2mm is tapered, meaning there's no thread strength there. Filing/grinding off to 6.5mm ought to be fine as long as you don't get spinners and you use G-flex epoxy for extra insurance.

    If you grind off the excess, make sure you tap, 'coz the tapered part that's missing helps to get by without a tap - to start the thread (at least with non-metal tops).

    I don't know anything about the BMTs (not sure why they specify 4.1), but the above comments would apply to any ski.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  18. #2793
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,691
    Quote Originally Posted by torn_acl View Post

    What ~6mm looks like on the ski where I'd mount the heel pieces. I'm not convinced using a ~9mm drill bit won't work.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Not sure why the pictures are rotated incorrectly but they seem to automatically rotate themselves when I upload.

    Help would be greatly appreciated
    This image looks like you are not measuring the full thickness of the ski, just from base to above sidewall. 6mm is pretty unusually thin for the middle of a performance, adult ski.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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  19. #2794
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    49
    Picked up a pair of older manasluís to use as a lightweight beater setup. Going to mount verticals in the factory inserts. Come to find out, 4 of the toe insert have been plugged. Question is how should I go about mounting the toes? Drill out the plug completely or drill a pilot and epoxy the screws? With it being in the sluís factor inserts, not exactly sure on best way to proceed...




    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  20. #2795
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    17,981
    Quote Originally Posted by rikamurf View Post
    Picked up a pair of older manaslu’s to use as a lightweight beater setup. Going to mount verticals in the factory inserts. Come to find out, 4 of the toe insert have been plugged. Question is how should I go about mounting the toes? Drill out the plug completely or drill a pilot and epoxy the screws? With it being in the slu’s factor inserts, not exactly sure on best way to proceed...]
    are you saying the plastic insert that Dynafit used is completely gone and the holes are filled with a wooden plug or is there just a plastic plug in the original hole of the insert OR ???
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #2796
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    1,233
    Quote Originally Posted by rikamurf View Post
    Picked up a pair of older manaslu’s to use as a lightweight beater setup. Going to mount verticals in the factory inserts. Come to find out, 4 of the toe insert have been plugged. Question is how should I go about mounting the toes? Drill out the plug completely or drill a pilot and epoxy the screws? With it being in the slu’s factor inserts, not exactly sure on best way to proceed...




    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    lets get a pic
    I started a dating advice app because I always need advice
    ó
    Charmed Chat lets you tinder for your friends

  22. #2797
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    49
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Will be using the forward most inserts that are the original plastic that has then been filled with a plastic plug.




    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  23. #2798
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    17,981
    Yeah I think I would pull those plugs out with a dry wall screw and try to reuse the holes, I would mount using slow set, leave to set for 24 hrs and see if they spin or not

    this ski looks like its had a lot of binding mounts at least a vert (5hole) and a rad (4hole)

    IME with dyna inserts my BSL (size 24) was too small to use only inserts so I had to drill into wood for some of the screws but another problem was that ski center is not marked so I didn't know where ski center was

    so i checked a buddies ski who owned stokes with size 9 boots to see where his Boot center ended up and it appeared that the "made in Austria" writing on the top sheet lined up with his boot center

    SO I made the assumption that was the ski center

    at least on the stokes
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #2799
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Zurich, Switzerland
    Posts
    318
    Quote Originally Posted by gwat View Post
    Can anyone explain the markings on the sidewall of these old straight Volkls?
    Seems like they are recommending mounting within this zone. Why the wide range?
    The distance between 1 and 12 is about 4cm.

    Hmmm.Name:  image1.jpeg
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    I am late to the party but nothing better than a german native speaker to tell you it says Midsole next to all the marks. I think maybe there a several as they wanted to have the toe in the same place independent of the sole length.

  25. #2800
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1,623
    Quote Originally Posted by LeoK View Post
    I am late to the party.
    Yep
    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Pretty much Volkl and K2.
    Volkl had the schuspitze(boot toe)
    K2 had #'s that corresponded to bsl, which is what the schuhmitte(boot center)on these Volkls appear to be as well, which is a midsole line.

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