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  1. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bird Blaster View Post
    Well the "hammer-drill" worked except on one. I have a stripped screw head and that thing has to come out. Suggestions?
    Have access to Stripped Screw Head repair compound or a reverse thread extractor?
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  2. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by bern43 View Post
    Alright, so I need a check on my neurosis. Just got done marking where I'm going to drill for my dynalook plates. I checked that the template was lined up using my calipers, then made tiny pin pricks with a thin center punch. But when I went to measure those marks using the caliper there all off a tiny bit. One whole is a tiny bit over 1/2mm, the rest are under 1/2mm. Toe is off in the opposite direction of the heel, but it should be still less than 1mm off. Because I used such a small center punch I could re-do the marks, but I'm thinking this is close enough. Thoughts?

    Edit: I must be going senile as I asked this question last year, and the resounding answer was that 1/2 mm isn't going to really matter.
    some 'Deep' Thoughts (apologies to JH):

    -how do the plates look when placed over the holes?

    -To 'move' a mark, stick an awl at angle into the mark in the direction you want to move. Then raise it to vertical while applying force.

    -Alpine screw mounts are more forgiving than insert mounts and there could easily be over a 1/2mm movement when installing the screw in the ski.

    -if you are confident that only one is off, you can try installing the binding/plate with the correct screw locations and use the binding to 'right' the off screw.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  3. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bird Blaster View Post
    Well the "hammer-drill" worked except on one. I have a stripped screw head and that thing has to come out. Suggestions?
    Hammer a reground tip in.
    Try spin the binding combined with the driver.
    Try hammering in next size up - possibly T20-plus, an allen hex maybe or T25
    Drill the head out

  4. #229
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    Thanks. I have a T-25 I may try.

    How do I drill a head out? Drill until I can get the head to pop off?

  5. #230
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    I don't have a T-25 here to measure, but when I measure over (would be flats on a hex) the ones I have they seem to jump about .020-.025" per size jump: T8 - T10 - T15 - T20. So maybe a T25 does that too. If so, might not be out of the question to mash it in there.

    If you drill the head, go up to about the tap drill size. I assume that to be about a 4mm drill. Maybe a little more if needed. Just do the head so you have something left to grab with some vise-grips to get the screw out.

    Screws are probably stainless so if you're just using a high speed steel drill it'll probably get beat/worn easy. If you've got a drill with cobalt in it that'll hold up much better.

  6. #231
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    Great. Thanks for the tips! I will try when I get home

  7. #232
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    Great. Thanks for the tips! Worked. Had to drill the head off though.

  8. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    some 'Deep' Thoughts (apologies to JH):

    -how do the plates look when placed over the holes?

    -To 'move' a mark, stick an awl at angle into the mark in the direction you want to move. Then raise it to vertical while applying force.

    -Alpine screw mounts are more forgiving than insert mounts and there could easily be over a 1/2mm movement when installing the screw in the ski.

    -if you are confident that only one is off, you can try installing the binding/plate with the correct screw locations and use the binding to 'right' the off screw.
    The plates look ok when placed over the holes. The hole pattern matches the up with the tiny divots. But it's really hard to eyeball if it's exactly spot on. Think I'll try moving the divots in the right direction and remeasure.

  9. #234
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    Apr 2008
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    i fucked up my mount! got some freeride pluses from splat and put them on my 189cm icelantic keepers last night. i had 7tm tours on the skis previously and the mount was on the B tele pin line marked on the ski. this mount always seemed pretty far back to me, which i didnt like. i had had a few drinks and i somehow mounted the freerides boot center 7cm forward from the BC line! measure twice, drill once! i skied them all day today and then realized my error. however for comparison, all last winter i skied OG surface live lifes mounted on the NEW line (essentially cord center) and liked the feel of the more center mount on those skis. i'd like to have a more forward mount on the keepers, but not +7! i am not sure what to do. maybe remount the freerides half way between the CC and BC lines or +4.5cm BC
    holy swiss cheese!
    FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCKING JONG
    stay outta my line

  10. #235
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    I have mounted a few sets myself. It's easy with a template.
    If you are getting rad but there is no one to see you. Are you really getting rad at all?

  11. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by TransplantedFromRMNP View Post
    i fucked up my mount! got some freeride pluses from splat and put them on my 189cm icelantic keepers last night. i had 7tm tours on the skis previously and the mount was on the B tele pin line marked on the ski. this mount always seemed pretty far back to me, which i didnt like. i had had a few drinks and i somehow mounted the freerides boot center 7cm forward from the BC line! measure twice, drill once! i skied them all day today and then realized my error. however for comparison, all last winter i skied OG surface live lifes mounted on the NEW line (essentially cord center) and liked the feel of the more center mount on those skis. i'd like to have a more forward mount on the keepers, but not +7! i am not sure what to do. maybe remount the freerides half way between the CC and BC lines or +4.5cm BC
    holy swiss cheese!
    FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCKING JONG
    I mounted my Keepers on the BC line and really enjoyed what they could on one powder day so far. A demo pair I tried in a variety of conditions were also mounted on the BC line (I think) and I loved 'em, so I bought a pair. With the long rocker, I'd personally be hesitant to go too far forward. YMMV.

    One thing about using inserts is that you can set up a couple mounting locations for different conditions or purposes.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  12. #237
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    Quote Originally Posted by nb1234 View Post
    Here's a sketch of what I'm talking about. Obviously, the arcs I drew for the edge radius is very exaggerated, but you should be able to get the point.

    In this case the scribe lines actually intersect - so you can connect the intersection points and get the actual center line (shown in red.)

    Depending how you set up your scribe, it's also possible that the two scribe lines don't intersect. If they're close enough you can simply find the middle of the "gap" between the two for the center line, or readjust the scribe and do it again so they do intersect.


    Just wanted to pass along my thanks for this method. Used it on 2 sets of skis over the past couple days and it's the best method I've tried so far. It's quick and accurate. What I did to "improve" it a bit was to drill a very small hole through the steel straight edge of my combo square (at about the 5" mark). The hole is only large enough for the tip of a ball point pen to barely stick through. Then I adjust the distance of the hole from the combo square's angle edge so that the hole will definitely pass over the center of the ski as you draw the arc. Lay a piece of blue tape down the center of the ski and then use the pen to draw 2 arcs from each side of the ski. Totally money - no more wondering if I've got center marked perfectly.

  13. #238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wild4umlauts View Post
    Just wanted to pass along my thanks for this method. Used it on 2 sets of skis over the past couple days and it's the best method I've tried so far. It's quick and accurate. What I did to "improve" it a bit was to drill a very small hole through the steel straight edge of my combo square (at about the 5" mark). The hole is only large enough for the tip of a ball point pen to barely stick through. Then I adjust the distance of the hole from the combo square's angle edge so that the hole will definitely pass over the center of the ski as you draw the arc. Lay a piece of blue tape down the center of the ski and then use the pen to draw 2 arcs from each side of the ski. Totally money - no more wondering if I've got center marked perfectly.
    Agreed. I will add, that I've found that you get good accuracy if you do the line crosses
    ~ 18"-24" apart--depends on the straightedge length you use--and then double check along that length with a couple other line crosses. If you do this, or mount a bunch of different width skis, your combo square will look like swiss cheese with all the holes you drill in it. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, one of these little mini squares with precision holes can be had for not much more than the cost of a cheap square. Something like this:

    http://www.woodpeck.com/saddletsquares.html

    or this

    http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-TINYT03-...ref=pd_cp_hi_2

    Edit: I'll add that I have the second one, but the first one looks like it might be a better tool for skis as its one solid piece and likely extends down farther for thick core skis. It's machined out of solid aluminum, but if Terry could get some similar plastic ones made up and sell them for <$20 each I think we'd have a killer centerline finder
    Last edited by Kim Jong-un; 12-28-2012 at 08:03 AM.

  14. #239
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    How about something like this:



    I may have mentioned this before, but if you do not have a long straight edge you can use a 2mm or so cord/string to check alignment. By either taping the ends or simply holding it with arms outstretched over mark farther apart you can easily double check your marking.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  15. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    How about something like this:


    I find it more cumbersome and less monkey proof than scribing the arcs because unlike a jig that moves the guides in equal increments, you have to reset those brass guides to get a second mark on a different section of the ski...or no?

  16. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kim Jong-un View Post
    I find it more cumbersome and less monkey proof than scribing the arcs because unlike a jig that moves the guides in equal increments, you have to reset those brass guides to get a second mark on a different section of the ski...or no?
    You can move the locks or you simply move the guide down the ski until it hits the same width of the skis again, mark and then connect the dots. Brainless, simple and quick. (You need to be reasonably square to the centerline, however.)

    I'm thinking wood versus plastic.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  17. #242
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    Then there's the "paper trick" for finding center quickly, easily & with minimal fiddly-FKNAround


  18. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankZappa View Post
    Then there's the "paper trick" for finding center quickly, easily & with minimal fiddly-FKNAround

    I did this method on my last mount. It worked great. I made marks closer to the tips and tails to minimize any errors. Then I connected with my 48" straight edge. No measuring, no arcs. Done and done.
    Your jambox is now his...by way of our actions

  19. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankZappa View Post
    Then there's the "paper trick" for finding center quickly, easily & with minimal fiddly-FKNAround

    This isn't as accurate as scribing arcs. The "paper trick" doesn't guarantee that you're square to the center line of the ski. The beauty of the scribed arcs method is that there's very little room to screw it up. I triple checked what the scribed arcs found as the center line with every other method I'm aware of and it clearly was the most accurate while also being the fastest.

    My combo square has an adjustable ruler so I only had to drill one hole that will work with every width ski. No Swiss cheese situation here.

  20. #245
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    I do it simpler these days.

    Run masking tape down the middle.

    Put a speed square on one side and mark the eighth inch nearest the centerline (e.g. 1 and 7/8" )
    Then flip the square over to the other side of the ski and mark the same distance.

    Use your eyeballs to split the difference and find the true center.

    Do this in three or four locations and use a straightedge to connect the dots down the centerline.

    Centering tools are cool but this works quite well.
    “Life has become immeasurably better since I have been forced to stop taking it seriously.”
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  21. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by Core Shot View Post
    I do it simpler these days.

    Run masking tape down the middle.

    Put a speed square on one side and mark the eighth inch nearest the centerline (e.g. 1 and 7/8" )
    Then flip the square over to the other side of the ski and mark the same distance.

    Use your eyeballs to split the difference and find the true center.

    Do this in three or four locations and use a straightedge to connect the dots down the centerline.

    Centering tools are cool but this works quite well.
    Yep. This is what I do...minus the masking tape.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  22. #247
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    I thought that getting my skis drilled at a shop, and screwing down the bindings myself would be a good idea. Now I have a crooked dynafit toe. I'm sure they'll re do it for me, but I would rather fix it myself at this point.

  23. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtaylor View Post
    I thought that getting my skis drilled at a shop, and screwing down the bindings myself would be a good idea. Now I have a crooked dynafit toe. I'm sure they'll re do it for me, but I would rather fix it myself at this point.
    How crooked are they? If they're just a bit off you should be fine:

    1. Back off the screws
    2. Insert boot into both toe and heel pieces
    3. Does the boot fit? If so, tighten the front 2 screws on the toe, and any screws on the heel that you can access.
    4. Remove boot, tighten remaining screws.
    5. Go skiing.
    6. Next time, mount your own fucking skis (see this thread)

  24. #249
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    5mm off crooked. The skis already have a bunch of holes in them, so I filled the old holes with epoxy/steel wool and I am going to correct it with inserts. Lining it up with paper, it should work.

    I did that by the way. Then I tried to ski them without repairing it, and got 2 turn in before a toe release. I got to the parking lot with the toes locked.

  25. #250
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    Feb 2010
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    Mounted my Candide Pows last night with the help of Jondrum's templates. Mounted the bindings to a scrap piece of wood first to use as a sanity check, everything was gravy. Thought I might have to buy new brakes for them, but was able to bend the stock 97mm (Deadbolt/ Tyrolia 15) ones to fit.


    Had all kinds of a hard time finding a #3 Pozidriv, ends up a #2 Robertson (square) also fits, and works better than a Phillips.

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