Results 2,651 to 2,675 of 6863
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01-25-2019, 04:46 PM #2651
Got my new wrens last night
Just mounted em up! I think this is my mount #7 or 8 entirely because of this thread. Used to spend $50 a mount or whatever it is now. With my wife and 2 teenage boys all with multiple skis, it adds up quick. So thank you to all that contributed to this thread
No matter what though, especially with a brand new pair of MY skis, it’s nerve racking. Measure 5 times, drill once.
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01-25-2019, 05:30 PM #2652Registered User
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- Truckee
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01-27-2019, 01:45 PM #2653
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01-27-2019, 02:20 PM #2654Registered User
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- Oct 2017
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01-27-2019, 05:36 PM #2655
I like the caliper variation.
I've been lining up a square against the edge and measuring from each side, but this technique halves the effort (apart from measuring twice, of course).
For all of you who can't have enough tools, here's a centering ruler (both metric and inch): https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...Shop_Rule.html
... ThomLast edited by galibier_numero_un; 01-27-2019 at 09:56 PM.
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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01-27-2019, 11:29 PM #2656
Are you guys using a centering ruler to find center or double check your line?
I've always been partial to using a fixed compass to make an intersection point at two different spots along the length of a ski and then connecting the dots.
I've got a pair of skis to mount in the next week or two and want to be using the maggot approved method to finding a center line.
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01-28-2019, 12:20 AM #2657
I've always liked the idea of a compass, but couldn't think of a reliable location for the two center points. Where do you anchor the two center points of the compass? My best reference is side of the ski - the outside of the edge. I know @auvgeek uses the sidewall, but in both cases, I can't visualize where you'd anchor the compass. Maybe at the junction of the edge and the sidewall? This is ski construction dependent of course.
I've been using a ruler for measuring from the edge (two measurements - using a square butted up against the side of the edge). I just tested @nickbokhoven's method that I quoted above - using a dial indicator to set the two sides of the ski at the same time and it works even better than my technique (using a centering ruler as he shows in his picture). I'm tempted to make a tool out of a couple of plates of alu and a bolt.
I hate 'murican rulers for things like this, but I have a centering ruler from the above link I posted, and when I got it, they didn't have the metric version.
... ThomGalibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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01-28-2019, 10:56 PM #2658meepmoop24
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- Apr 2014
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- 228
PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.
Anyone near Denver have a Warden jig? Could use paper templates but I have a couple pairs to do and the jig makes it much quicker.
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01-30-2019, 10:57 AM #2659Registered User
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- Jan 2014
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- Gaperville, CO
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Anyone who has mounted Rossi Axial Race Maxflex bindings (aka PX15 Race) have issues with forward pressure adjustment. I'm mount these flat, but there is sort of a forward and rear "slide" where I could mount them once I've select the proper boot length using the labeled numbers. In either case (when test mounting on a 2x4), when I go to adjust forward pressure to get the correct adjustment per the tech manual, its basically impossible to get the boot in and it doesn't release cleanly (as if it is too tight). If I back it off, the forward pressure seems too loose.
Am I boneheading something up?
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01-30-2019, 11:11 AM #2660
If it's the same as a px18 with the rear forward pressure adjustment I've always just set it so the boot is close to the heel cup, clicked em in, adjusted til the screw was at the indented line and done. I do notice sometimes they seem a little tight stepping in but never had an issue. Seems like they have a big adjustment range and like to be a bit tight.
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01-30-2019, 11:12 AM #2661
When I mounted the wife’s on some dynastar sl Ski’s w the plate they seemed to have a lot of forward pressure. When actually in the boot seems to have no issues stepping in.
The heel is definitely way up against the cup on my ti12’s....just like hers.
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01-30-2019, 11:23 AM #2662
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01-30-2019, 11:23 AM #2663Registered User
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Hmm....sounds like I may just need to accept lots of forward pressure.
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01-30-2019, 11:29 AM #2664
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01-30-2019, 11:35 AM #2665
You need to slide the heel piece back as far as possible after selecting boot length interval. If I don't misread my notes, using the Look PX racing template set up for 300 mm is good for the PX MFX set to the 296-310 mm interval. Adjust for-aft position for boot center location as needed. (305 bsl will end up ca 3 mm behind template center)
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01-30-2019, 11:42 AM #2666Registered User
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01-30-2019, 04:32 PM #2667
My general rule of thumb for alpine binders is that if the forward pressure is set correctly, you should be able to step into the bindings with no hangup. I use this as a validation point, more than anything - especially when the manufacturer's instructions are obtuse.
With Solly's (Warden/STH2) there's no ambiguity. A forward tension screw correctly set to flush is consistent with ease of step-in.
Of course boot heel wear comes into the picture, but I think you get my point.
This cross reference method was helpful when I was sussing out Pivots for the first time in two decades. It helped me figure out that you're after parallel contact between the heel piece and the boot heel ledge. Considering how wonky the forward pressure indicator is on them, it helped me make sense of the manufacturer's intentions.
This isn't perfect of course, and I have to reemphasize, that I make every effort to cross-reference against the manufacturer's instructions. For example, with correctly adjusted Pivots, I occasionally have a difficult time clicking into them with my Lange XT-130 Freetours (the heels are in good shape). The parallel edge wins out over step-in ease with these boots.
... ThomLast edited by galibier_numero_un; 01-30-2019 at 06:53 PM.
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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01-31-2019, 11:23 AM #2668
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02-02-2019, 09:08 AM #2669
Anybody know off hand if a 297 bsl sth2 will interfere with a 325 pivot hole pattern?
My printer is broken and I only have pivot templates printed out.
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02-02-2019, 12:46 PM #2670Registered User
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- Jan 2014
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Mounted my first ever tech binders this AM. Time for BBI Euro and the Urner Haute route.
Used the method of installing heel dead on first. Then one screw on the toe piece not fully in, then insert boot, align with pins, additional screw partially in to lock down, remove boot, install all screws. Vipecs make this easy as the front two screws are accessible with boot in the binding. I choose which screw to start with based on which was most centered when aligning toe unit over the drilled holes.
Everything aligned, installed and functioning.
Pro tip: I found a Voile strap to tighten the brakes under the skis helped everything seat in the brake assembly more easily in order to put the brake retaining screws in.
Last edited by doebedoe; 02-02-2019 at 01:36 PM.
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02-02-2019, 01:29 PM #2671Registered User
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Should not be a problem. Realize there is a little deciphering in the photos. Back screws of pivot toe at 325 land in between STH toes at 297. Pivot heel at 325 is forward of all STH at 297.
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02-02-2019, 03:08 PM #2672Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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02-02-2019, 03:25 PM #2673
[EDIT] I re-drew the overlay pattern to now show the STH-2 holes instead of Warden holes. I had originally drawn a Warden overlay and dreferenced the Powderguide offset for the two front STH holes relative to the Warden holes. I had pointed them in the opposite direction. Now that I've drawn the STH-2 holes, there should be no ambiguity. Sorry for any confusion.[/EDIT]
Note that I show the insert diameter along with approximate screw hole diameter on my simulations in order to cover both scenarios.
... ThomLast edited by galibier_numero_un; 02-03-2019 at 03:10 PM.
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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02-02-2019, 03:27 PM #2674
Thanks, this helps a bunch.
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02-02-2019, 03:45 PM #2675Registered User
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