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  1. #2651
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    North,NorthEast
    Posts
    3,578
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    Got my new wrens last night
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    Just mounted em up! I think this is my mount #7 or 8 entirely because of this thread. Used to spend $50 a mount or whatever it is now. With my wife and 2 teenage boys all with multiple skis, it adds up quick. So thank you to all that contributed to this thread

    No matter what though, especially with a brand new pair of MY skis, it’s nerve racking. Measure 5 times, drill once.

  2. #2652
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Truckee
    Posts
    1,041
    Quote Originally Posted by scrambledbacon View Post
    PSA:
    When using nail polish remover, read the content label first. Was wondering what the residue on my gloves was. Fucking avacado oil
    I can't seem to grasp why avocado oil would be in nail polish remover? Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of the solvent?

    Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk

  3. #2653
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    111
    Quote Originally Posted by skifishbum View Post
    wore out one pair after a good 200+ days so i remount a new with added stompability paddings

    the furkid gots some serious time at the mount bench for his age
    skis are cool but that pup > all. What a stunning doggo.

  4. #2654
    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Posts
    2,305
    Quote Originally Posted by t-the-east View Post
    Got my new wrens last night
    W96s might possibly have the best ON3P graphics ever imo - they look sensational.

    Doggie has nice mane

  5. #2655
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    I like the caliper variation.

    I've been lining up a square against the edge and measuring from each side, but this technique halves the effort (apart from measuring twice, of course).

    For all of you who can't have enough tools, here's a centering ruler (both metric and inch): https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tool...Shop_Rule.html

    Quote Originally Posted by nickbokhoven View Post
    Big thank you to all that have contributed. First time with inserts and all good. A couple of pictures for my process on a pair of Quixote from GS.

    Using calipers from the bottom side with a centering ruler taped to a larger scraper.
    Attachment 263980
    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 01-27-2019 at 09:56 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  6. #2656
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    1,521
    Are you guys using a centering ruler to find center or double check your line?

    I've always been partial to using a fixed compass to make an intersection point at two different spots along the length of a ski and then connecting the dots.

    I've got a pair of skis to mount in the next week or two and want to be using the maggot approved method to finding a center line.

  7. #2657
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by ghosthop View Post
    Are you guys using a centering ruler to find center or double check your line?

    I've always been partial to using a fixed compass to make an intersection point at two different spots along the length of a ski and then connecting the dots.

    I've got a pair of skis to mount in the next week or two and want to be using the maggot approved method to finding a center line.
    I've always liked the idea of a compass, but couldn't think of a reliable location for the two center points. Where do you anchor the two center points of the compass? My best reference is side of the ski - the outside of the edge. I know @auvgeek uses the sidewall, but in both cases, I can't visualize where you'd anchor the compass. Maybe at the junction of the edge and the sidewall? This is ski construction dependent of course.

    I've been using a ruler for measuring from the edge (two measurements - using a square butted up against the side of the edge). I just tested @nickbokhoven's method that I quoted above - using a dial indicator to set the two sides of the ski at the same time and it works even better than my technique (using a centering ruler as he shows in his picture). I'm tempted to make a tool out of a couple of plates of alu and a bolt.

    I hate 'murican rulers for things like this, but I have a centering ruler from the above link I posted, and when I got it, they didn't have the metric version.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  8. #2658
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    228

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Anyone near Denver have a Warden jig? Could use paper templates but I have a couple pairs to do and the jig makes it much quicker.

  9. #2659
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,852
    Anyone who has mounted Rossi Axial Race Maxflex bindings (aka PX15 Race) have issues with forward pressure adjustment. I'm mount these flat, but there is sort of a forward and rear "slide" where I could mount them once I've select the proper boot length using the labeled numbers. In either case (when test mounting on a 2x4), when I go to adjust forward pressure to get the correct adjustment per the tech manual, its basically impossible to get the boot in and it doesn't release cleanly (as if it is too tight). If I back it off, the forward pressure seems too loose.

    Am I boneheading something up?

  10. #2660
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    798
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Anyone who has mounted Rossi Axial Race Maxflex bindings (aka PX15 Race) have issues with forward pressure adjustment. I'm mount these flat, but there is sort of a forward and rear "slide" where I could mount them once I've select the proper boot length using the labeled numbers. In either case (when test mounting on a 2x4), when I go to adjust forward pressure to get the correct adjustment per the tech manual, its basically impossible to get the boot in and it doesn't release cleanly (as if it is too tight). If I back it off, the forward pressure seems too loose.

    Am I boneheading something up?
    If it's the same as a px18 with the rear forward pressure adjustment I've always just set it so the boot is close to the heel cup, clicked em in, adjusted til the screw was at the indented line and done. I do notice sometimes they seem a little tight stepping in but never had an issue. Seems like they have a big adjustment range and like to be a bit tight.

  11. #2661
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
    Posts
    5,021
    When I mounted the wife’s on some dynastar sl Ski’s w the plate they seemed to have a lot of forward pressure. When actually in the boot seems to have no issues stepping in.

    The heel is definitely way up against the cup on my ti12’s....just like hers.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  12. #2662
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    the ham
    Posts
    13,389
    Quote Originally Posted by ghosthop View Post
    Are you guys using a centering ruler to find center or double check your line?
    vernier caliper + regular ruler + math.

    but whatever works.

  13. #2663
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,852
    Hmm....sounds like I may just need to accept lots of forward pressure.

  14. #2664
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    No longer Alexandria, VA
    Posts
    2,653
    Quote Originally Posted by ghosthop View Post
    Are you guys using a centering ruler to find center or double check your line?

    I've always been partial to using a fixed compass to make an intersection point at two different spots along the length of a ski and then connecting the dots.

    I've got a pair of skis to mount in the next week or two and want to be using the maggot approved method to finding a center line.
    Paper templates have worked fine for me. Just center the hash marks on the edges of the ski (not the sidewall). Easy to overthink, difficult to screw up - as long as you take your time and only have 1 or 2 beers. YMMV as beer consumption increases.

  15. #2665
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bodenseekreis
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Anyone who has mounted Rossi Axial Race Maxflex bindings (aka PX15 Race) have issues with forward pressure adjustment. I'm mount these flat, but there is sort of a forward and rear "slide" where I could mount them once I've select the proper boot length using the labeled numbers. In either case (when test mounting on a 2x4), when I go to adjust forward pressure to get the correct adjustment per the tech manual, its basically impossible to get the boot in and it doesn't release cleanly (as if it is too tight). If I back it off, the forward pressure seems too loose.

    Am I boneheading something up?
    You need to slide the heel piece back as far as possible after selecting boot length interval. If I don't misread my notes, using the Look PX racing template set up for 300 mm is good for the PX MFX set to the 296-310 mm interval. Adjust for-aft position for boot center location as needed. (305 bsl will end up ca 3 mm behind template center)

  16. #2666
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,852
    Quote Originally Posted by SoooL View Post
    You need to slide the heel piece back as far as possible after selecting boot length interval. ...
    This is exactly the sort of thing I was looking for. Thanks! The difference between the two is about 5mm-ish and wasn't sure which is correct.

  17. #2667
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    This is exactly the sort of thing I was looking for. Thanks! The difference between the two is about 5mm-ish and wasn't sure which is correct.
    My general rule of thumb for alpine binders is that if the forward pressure is set correctly, you should be able to step into the bindings with no hangup. I use this as a validation point, more than anything - especially when the manufacturer's instructions are obtuse.

    With Solly's (Warden/STH2) there's no ambiguity. A forward tension screw correctly set to flush is consistent with ease of step-in.

    Of course boot heel wear comes into the picture, but I think you get my point.

    This cross reference method was helpful when I was sussing out Pivots for the first time in two decades. It helped me figure out that you're after parallel contact between the heel piece and the boot heel ledge. Considering how wonky the forward pressure indicator is on them, it helped me make sense of the manufacturer's intentions.

    This isn't perfect of course, and I have to reemphasize, that I make every effort to cross-reference against the manufacturer's instructions. For example, with correctly adjusted Pivots, I occasionally have a difficult time clicking into them with my Lange XT-130 Freetours (the heels are in good shape). The parallel edge wins out over step-in ease with these boots.

    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 01-30-2019 at 06:53 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  18. #2668
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Mexico 2.0
    Posts
    819
    Going under the (rotary) knife

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  19. #2669
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    905
    Anybody know off hand if a 297 bsl sth2 will interfere with a 325 pivot hole pattern?

    My printer is broken and I only have pivot templates printed out.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  20. #2670
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,852
    Mounted my first ever tech binders this AM. Time for BBI Euro and the Urner Haute route.

    Used the method of installing heel dead on first. Then one screw on the toe piece not fully in, then insert boot, align with pins, additional screw partially in to lock down, remove boot, install all screws. Vipecs make this easy as the front two screws are accessible with boot in the binding. I choose which screw to start with based on which was most centered when aligning toe unit over the drilled holes.
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    Everything aligned, installed and functioning.
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    Pro tip: I found a Voile strap to tighten the brakes under the skis helped everything seat in the brake assembly more easily in order to put the brake retaining screws in.
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    Last edited by doebedoe; 02-02-2019 at 01:36 PM.

  21. #2671
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Encinitas CA
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by slowroastin View Post
    Anybody know off hand if a 297 bsl sth2 will interfere with a 325 pivot hole pattern?

    My printer is broken and I only have pivot templates printed out.


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    Should not be a problem. Realize there is a little deciphering in the photos. Back screws of pivot toe at 325 land in between STH toes at 297. Pivot heel at 325 is forward of all STH at 297.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  22. #2672
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Mounted my first ever tech binders this AM. Time for BBI Euro and the Urner Haute route.

    Used the method of installing heel dead on first. Then one screw on the toe piece not fully in, then insert boot, align with pins, additional screw partially in to lock down, remove boot, install all screws. Vipecs make this easy as the front two screws are accessible with boot in the binding. I choose which screw to start with based on which was most centered when aligning toe unit over the drilled holes.
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    Everything aligned, installed and functioning.


    Pro tip: I found a Voile strap to tighten the brakes under the skis helped everything seat in the brake assembly more easily in order to put the brake retaining screws in.
    Really curious to see your comments about them in the Down thread. I don't think we have enough BSL flexibility to compare against my std. 104s (mine mounted for 297). The "L" has been on my mind a lot lately.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  23. #2673
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Colorado Front Range
    Posts
    4,644
    Quote Originally Posted by slowroastin View Post
    Anybody know off hand if a 297 bsl sth2 will interfere with a 325 pivot hole pattern?

    My printer is broken and I only have pivot templates printed out.

    [EDIT] I re-drew the overlay pattern to now show the STH-2 holes instead of Warden holes. I had originally drawn a Warden overlay and dreferenced the Powderguide offset for the two front STH holes relative to the Warden holes. I had pointed them in the opposite direction. Now that I've drawn the STH-2 holes, there should be no ambiguity. Sorry for any confusion.[/EDIT]


    Note that I show the insert diameter along with approximate screw hole diameter on my simulations in order to cover both scenarios.



    ... Thom
    Last edited by galibier_numero_un; 02-03-2019 at 03:10 PM.
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  24. #2674
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    905
    Thanks, this helps a bunch.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  25. #2675
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,852
    Quote Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un View Post
    Really curious to see your comments about them in the Down thread. I don't think we have enough BSL flexibility to compare against my std. 104s (mine mounted for 297). The "L" has been on my mind a lot lately.

    ... Thom
    Mounted for 310...it’d be close I think.

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