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  1. #2476
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    53
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    ❅-Pivot 14 (13/14 and newer)
    •8 – 18mm small heads
    •4 – 10mm low heads
    •4 – 16mm low heads
    How do you decide which one to use?

  2. #2477
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    16,308
    Quote Originally Posted by burrito View Post
    Some questions as a first timer:

    I laid out and center punched my skis last night from a paper template, but one of them had something funky going on. I could use a little advice. Here's what I did, and what happened:

    To find the ski center line I clamped a calipers across the ski (to get a proper right angle) and then measured with a centered ruler. I did this in 5 or 6 spots down the ski and connected the marks with straight edge. After that I double-checked the ski center by wrapping the centered ruler to the edges. The boot center line was screen printed on the ski but only about an inch long, so I used a piece of tape to extend it to the edges. The paper template fit perfectly for one ski, and I used a center punch to mark the drill spots.

    When I got to the second ski, though, I couldn't get the template to align with both the boot center line and the ski center line. What I finally came around to thinking was that the screen printed boot center line wasn't at a right angle to the ski center line (tough to actually measure as I didn't have a protractor handy), so I aligned the template with the ski center and the center point of the boot center line and punched the drill locations.

    Is it normal for a screen printed boot center line to be off by a few degrees? It seems like an easy mistake to make in manufacturing. What's the best way for me to go back and double-check to make sure I didn't somehow screw up the alignment on that second ski? I'm about 90% sure it's fine, but I'd hate to get them mounted only to find my binding pointing cock-eyed. Any help is appreciated.
    Skis have been known to come with the boot center mark off usually fore/aft , the thing to do is measure both skls from tail to the ski center mark to check if they are both the same, sometimes on a popular ski you can find the exact distance in cms posted somwhere by a pro or e-mail the mfger and ask, IME this is the openning step to mounting a binding

    I like using a t-square to draw any lines on painters tape for layout, for any measurment I measure from one edge then measure from the other edge, for the ski cneter the lines are usually at a very slight angle to one another cuz ski edges are not straight due to sidecut so split the difference to draw a line that is 90 degrees to the ski center line, I also twice measure from ski edge either way to find points and do accurate measurement

    I never use those flacid paper templates i just use the boot & binding for the mounting process but you somehow want to check the template to make sure the printer you used to print the template is at the correct size, some of the templates have a scale you can measure with a ruler or use the binding

    go slow drink coffee, some drink beer but IME it takes too long/too many beers to mount a fixed heel binding without a professional jig and the accuracy/quality may suffer

    This ^^ is not true for tele cuz I can mount half a binding in 2 beers,

    in any case it would be impossible to tell if a tele mount is fucked up
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #2478
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    go slow drink coffee, some drink beer but IME it takes too long/too many beers to mount a fixed heel binding without a professional jig and the accuracy/quality may suffer
    I did a plywood test mount the other day, so I'm confident the templates are good. The boot center marks were in the same spot fore and aft on the skis, too. Mostly I'm worried that I somehow screwed up the ski's center line and have that second ski marked out of center/parallel. I'm going to repeat the whole process on that one tonight to triple-check things before drilling...This is what happens when you move to a town without a reliable shop.

  4. #2479
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,555
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedfreak View Post
    Slidewright has the tool (in a set) but it’s not cheap.
    All you need is a screw and jam nut for installs and removals (should be two nuts on the image):

    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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  5. #2480
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
    Posts
    1,451
    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    ❅-Pivot 14 (13/14 and newer)
    •8 – 18mm small heads
    •4 – 10mm low heads
    •4 – 16mm low heads
    Quote Originally Posted by aguo5520 View Post
    How do you decide which one to use?
    18mm are the toes
    10mm are the front heels
    16mm are the rear heels

  6. #2481
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    798

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    All you need is a screw and jam nut for installs and removals (should be two nuts on the image):

    No way. That's the worst piece of advice that won't die

    On the plus side, those items are all available at Ace. But if we are home brewing methods, a flathead screwdriver works better

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Buy used mount your own skis build a quiver

  7. #2482
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    798
    Quote Originally Posted by aguo5520 View Post
    How do you decide which one to use?
    You put the screws through the holes, hold the binding in the air and check


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Buy used mount your own skis build a quiver

  8. #2483
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,555
    Quote Originally Posted by margotron View Post
    No way. That's the worst piece of advice that won't die

    On the plus side, those items are all available at Ace. But if we are home brewing methods, a flathead screwdriver works better

    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Says the guy who cuts threads on plugs that are to be epoxied.....

    The jam nut works just fine for those who do not have a wide enough flathead or extractor, use QK inserts or have stripped BF inserts. Using a shoulder or nutted screw for installing inserts also works fine if you do not have other options in hand.
    Last edited by Alpinord; 12-04-2018 at 09:33 PM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
    BIKE TOOL BLOW OUT!

  9. #2484
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Posts
    262

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    Boom. No longer a self-mount virgin. Shifts on Bent Chetler 120s. Can’t wait to break ‘em out this weekend.
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  10. #2485
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    SoCal. SoVT.
    Posts
    1,131
    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    All you need is a screw and jam nut for installs and removals (should be two nuts on the image):

    I saw those but the post was asking for the BF tool with the little wings that fit in the insert notches
    Quote Originally Posted by doughboyshredder View Post
    If you're not standing on the fucking traverse with your thumb up your ass you wont get checked.

    dumbfuck.

  11. #2486
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,555
    Quote Originally Posted by Speedfreak View Post
    I saw those but the post was asking for the BF tool with the little wings that fit in the insert notches
    Oops cam in sideways to the thread.

    Another option is a modified #8 slotted screwdriver or bit:

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    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
    BIKE TOOL BLOW OUT!

  12. #2487
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    OR
    Posts
    1,252
    Just mounted up the groms new whip. Come to think of it- I was on some POS Mickey Mouse skis at his age. Who says it will be the first gen to have it worse than that last?

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  13. #2488
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    pdx
    Posts
    10,083
    ^^^ sharp!

  14. #2489
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    48
    Mounted last night 181 Sego Cleaver 102 w Attack 16s
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  15. #2490
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Whistler
    Posts
    1,451
    Mounted some old swiss cheese skis with some long track STH 14s, just so I could have an extra pair of fat skis for visiting guests.
    Had to dig through my spare screws and grind a few screws to make the lengths work. I left 2 rear heels screws 1-1.5mm too long. Bubbled the bases. Oops. (I've mounted thousands of skis in my days, and should have know better but because it was a beat up loaner I didn't really care)
    Had to pull those screws out, grind them down another 1mm. Heat the bases up really warm and pound em down with a flat faced hammer. After a quick scrape with the metal scraper I could hardly tell which ski I screwed up on.
    Reminded me of my shop days when we would charge extra for a mount when we encountered a "Binding in Bag w loose screws". We rarely charged for binding mounts. Our store policy was if you bought a ski, boot or binding from us we would mount for free. If someone brought in an outside ski for mounting we ofter just ask for beer. BUT if it was a binding in bag, or if the customer said "I think all the screws are there" the work order would get a big black Sharpie marker "BIB" written on it, and we charged the full price.

  16. #2491
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    411
    Need sanity check on this;

    I traded some swag for a pair of 188 Soul 7 HD and mounting Attack 13's and have a Raptor w/303 BSL. Rossi has two recommended mount points: “All Mountain” (5.9 cm from center; 87.3 cm from tail) and “Freeride” (7.9 cm from center; 87.3 cm from tail). I want the freeride or -2.

    I have template; check.
    I've ID'ed the ski center via this mark
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    To mate the two template half's (for my BSL) using the mm markers I tape together each piece (heel-toe) and match up @ at the 300mm line?
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    ID ski center (vertical or half)
    Tape template to ski placing boot mid sole mark -2cm behind ski centerline?
    3x measure, adjust as needed, tap, glue, drill, etc.

    Joining the template and properly placing it (for -2 mount) have me unsure. TIA!

  17. #2492
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    120
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    Praxis porn

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    Vintage lines found in the garage

    Jus wanna say Thx all for all the comprehensive knowledge on this loooong as thread

  18. #2493
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    53
    So what exactly is the benefit that tapping provides? Why is it needed for skis with metal topsheets? I'm trying to understand the details of it. The only reason I can think of is that a tap has sharper or thinner threads that help cut into the wood layers.

  19. #2494
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    3,075
    Quote Originally Posted by aguo5520 View Post
    So what exactly is the benefit that tapping provides? Why is it needed for skis with metal topsheets? I'm trying to understand the details of it. The only reason I can think of is that a tap has sharper or thinner threads that help cut into the wood layers.
    It prevents volcano-ing of the top sheets -- which is more likely with a metal layer.

  20. #2495
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    The Chicken Coop, Seattle
    Posts
    2,289
    Most recent work. Get to ride lifts this weekend at last.

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    wait!!!! waitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwait...Wait!
    Zoolander wasn't a documentary?

  21. #2496
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    132
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    Another session at the work bench out in the frigid garage last night. So cold my beer was trying to slush. The tried and true template that comes in the box of pivot/fks bindings works every time. Helps that I've mounted pivots many times.
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    Finished product. FKS mounted on the line. I can not wait to try the ski out. I have owned a lot of skis in the charger category, but these may end up being the best. I would say moderately stiff, with just the right amount of taper, tip and tail rocker. My beloved Cochise may see a little less use.

  22. #2497
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    1,565
    Quote Originally Posted by SupreChicken View Post
    Most recent work. Get to ride lifts this weekend at last.

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    those look fun!

  23. #2498
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    The Dirty E
    Posts
    697
    Bought some skis on eBay, went to pull the bindings and found out the previous owner had forced binding screws into inserts. Emphasis on *forced*, as the inserts had been shoved within the ski, dimpling the base. Got most of the screws out, but some came out with inserts. Several inserts had snapped in half within the ski, so after a few hours with a screw extractor and some needle nose pliers ended up with the pile seen here. Going to drill out the holes larger and do a mass of helicoils and hope for the best.

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    Last edited by cstefanic; 12-14-2018 at 04:10 PM.

  24. #2499
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    205
    Getting ready to mount my new Billy Goats with FKS bindings. This will only be my second mount. I remember last time (a few years ago) having some trouble with the screw catching and tightening on the binding hole itself before the screw was fully seated in the ski hole leaving a gap between the binding and ski. Is there a reason the binding holes are slightly interference fit with binding screws other than to keep the screw from getting lost when the bindings aren't mounted? Can I drill the binding holes out a smidge to make installation easier? Any other tips with this issue or was a just a dumbass last time and need to make sure the binding is flush before I start screwing?

    Note this has nothing to do with the volcano effect.

    Here are a couple posts where someone is talking about the same "problem."
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...43#post4104443
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...13#post4104813

  25. #2500
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by mtskibum16 View Post
    Getting ready to mount my new Billy Goats with FKS bindings. This will only be my second mount. I remember last time (a few years ago) having some trouble with the screw catching and tightening on the binding hole itself before the screw was fully seated in the ski hole leaving a gap between the binding and ski. Is there a reason the binding holes are slightly interference fit with binding screws other than to keep the screw from getting lost when the bindings aren't mounted? Can I drill the binding holes out a smidge to make installation easier? Any other tips with this issue or was a just a dumbass last time and need to make sure the binding is flush before I start screwing?

    Note this has nothing to do with the volcano effect.

    Here are a couple posts where someone is talking about the same "problem."
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...43#post4104443
    https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...13#post4104813
    You're right that the screws are only threaded into the plastic for keeping all the parts together in the package during shipping, sale, and the mounting process. Once they're mounted the plastic could just as well have clearance holes.

    You can drill them out if you want, won't affect performance, but proper install technique is all that's needed. They are trickier than other heel pieces to install.

    If you do the front holes first with the brakes hanging free (screw all the way in but don't torque tight yet) and then push on the brake pedal hard to hold the piece down while you do the back screws you should be good. Then torque all four screws evenly at the end once everything's aligned.

    If you botch it you can always helicoil or install threaded inserts.

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