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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
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    3,420

    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    That is all.
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Barre, VT
    Posts
    3,093
    ....or quit posting threads when some shop fucks them up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Ventura Highway in the Sunshine
    Posts
    19,716
    More importantly, don't post threads about fucking up your own mount.

    I agree it is a constitutional right for Americans to be assholes...its just too bad that so many take the opportunity...
    iscariot

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    20 steps from the hot tub
    Posts
    3,624
    Seriously, paying someone to mount skis is like paying someone to change the windshield wipers on your vehicle.

    (And no, you don't need a jig, a drill press and a shop table to do a good mount.)
    "Good girls go to heaven. Bad ones go to hell. And girls on fast bikes go anywhere they want." Elena

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    NZ soon.
    Posts
    236
    "And no, you don't need a jig, a drill press and a shop table to do a good mount." - Eldo

    I totally agree, but those things do make it easier/more enjoyable if you know someone who does and can trade a 6-pack to do it with their stuff. (The jig is probably the least important IMHO). I know I've done my share of skis with a cordless drill and kitchen table, but I do it in my home machine shop if I have the option!

    I agree with the OP - mount your own skis! I have 2 sets that I got used that a shop mounted incorrectly (each one has the bindings mounted differently 1-2cm fore/aft than the other ski... what were those guys smoking).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rochester Ny
    Posts
    388
    my last 6 pair I have mounted, the templates on TGR made it super easy just did it with a hand drill, used the proper bit and taped around the bit so as not to drill too deep. Mounts have been solid as I go 245lbs with gear and am pretty hard on the EC Icebumps. Once my local shop started upcharging ($75/mount) if you did not buy from them, I stopped using them 6 x$75 = $450 saved so far. getting ready to mount up the BG's this week... Now we just need some snow on The EC

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    147
    $75 bucks for a MOUNT? We charge $25 bucks and you get a quick hand wax and scrape too...I'll agree as well that the TGR Paper Templates are great....testing out the Jester right now.
    First Chair.....Last Call.....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    sfbay
    Posts
    2,099
    pault- post to the thread how the jester template worked - still waiting for someone to verify it (although I'm 95% sure its right).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sierra Foothills
    Posts
    450
    Or, mount your own skis if you have to a permit to use a tape measure, drill, and screwdriver. This accounts for far less than 50% of the skiers I know.

    FWIW, I do mount my own bindings. It's really not that hard if you have half a brain (or don't over indulge in drugs and/or booze).

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    147
    Used it to mont two different pairs of Jesters. Tested it out on the bench...twice. Spacing and alignment of the holes seemed fine. I would say it is legit. I had zero issues.
    First Chair.....Last Call.....

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Barre, VT
    Posts
    3,093
    Mounting my own skis from jondrums' paper templates thread have saved me hundred of dollars.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bozeman
    Posts
    1,520
    x 1,000. I always said, "If someone is going to fuck up my skis, I want it to be me." First pair of skis I mounted last year, I drilled though the ski. Threw down for a appropriate bit, and the next four pairs went smoothly.

    The thing that takes the longest for me is finding and marking the center line along the length of the ski. Any suggestions?
    We heard you in our twilight caves, one hundred fathom deep below, for notes of joy can pierce the waves, that drown each sound of war and woe.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,034
    Quote Originally Posted by butterscotch View Post

    The thing that takes the longest for me is finding and marking the center line along the length of the ski. Any suggestions?
    A centering ruler or ANY mountig jig with a center hole will work.
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,219
    Quote Originally Posted by butterscotch View Post
    The thing that takes the longest for me is finding and marking the center line along the length of the ski. Any suggestions?
    Try this ski center template:

    Name:  skicenter.jpg
Views: 32351
Size:  79.6 KB


    (I'll be posting the holes later......you can order them any size.)
    Last edited by Alpinord; 11-25-2015 at 06:27 AM.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    91
    For center I've always taken a fresh sheet of paper, laid it over the surface. Crease the edges of paper on the outsides of the ski, make the creases nice and sharp. Now fold the paper in half to meet both outside creases and you've found the center line. I always cross check with a tape and it's very close if done precisely.

    Mounting skis is ridiculously easy and fun, beats spending the money and trying to find a shop that doesn't want 4 days to get it done...

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    623
    What size drill bit should I use? I assume the "F" size (6.5mm or .257") bit that came with my Binding Freedom insert mount kit is the correct diameter for the threaded inserts, but is there a universal drill bit diameter for mounting skis?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Bozeman
    Posts
    1,520
    Damn, that was fast. I like the template as well as the centering ruler idea. I currently just use a blank piece of paper as described by Gobstopper. It works okay -- after creasing the centerline, I slide the paper up and down the ski and mark it. This process is usually pretty close, but I've had some end up way off. (And yes, I always doublecheck). It probably doesn't help that I'm somewhat retarded when it comes to mechanical things.

    Thanks everyone.
    We heard you in our twilight caves, one hundred fathom deep below, for notes of joy can pierce the waves, that drown each sound of war and woe.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Alpental
    Posts
    5,140
    Quote Originally Posted by shasti View Post
    What size drill bit should I use? I assume the "F" size (6.5mm or .257") bit that came with my Binding Freedom insert mount kit is the correct diameter for the threaded inserts, but is there a universal drill bit diameter for mounting skis?
    drill bit mounting info is usually printed on the top sheet for the skis- but fairly standard bit are 3.6 x 9mm or 4.1 x9 mm for skis with metal. Kids skis may be 3.5 x7 mm.
    Move upside and let the man go through...

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
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    2,219
    Quote Originally Posted by shasti View Post
    What size drill bit should I use? I assume the "F" size (6.5mm or .257") bit that came with my Binding Freedom insert mount kit is the correct diameter for the threaded inserts, but is there a universal drill bit diameter for mounting skis?
    Some think the slightly smaller 1/4" bit works well for BF & QK inserts.

    For alpine binding screws:
    * The general rule on drill bit sizes is 3.5mm for non-metal skis and 4.1 for metal. There are exceptions, such as a metal binding plate in a non-metal ski, carbon fiber top sheets, etc
    * By CE regulation, all current skis have the recommended drill size printed on the ski, either in the mounting area, on the adjacent sidewall or on the tail with the ski dimensions.
    * The minimum depth for a screw for a binding mount is 6mm/1/4". Measure the screw less the binding thickness will provide you minimum drill tip length.
    * Make sure this will not exceed the thickness of the ski or snow board.
    * The excess depth of a hole deeper than the length of screw will be filled with the glue.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    237
    Mounted my first set of skis in the back of the hardware store I worked at in highschool. There was a drill press but I just used a hand drill with masking tape wrapped around it for a depth gauge. No template just used the mounting bracket to mark holes. Worked fine and is still holding strong though they don't get used much anymore. There are better ways to go about this but the point is that a little common sense and patience can yield good results.

    $75 bucks for a MOUNT? We charge $25 bucks and you get a quick hand wax and scrape too
    We charge even more but its to encourage shopping with us not going online and bringing it in for us to mount. If you buy from us we do it for free so even if you find a ski for $100 less it would have been a wash essentially and I'll throw in a wax normally unless they're a douche.
    Last edited by Wired2theT; 11-28-2011 at 08:55 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by bite me View Post
    Texas is better than Hell? Maybe I'm not familiar enough with Hell, but it would be hard to imagine it being worse than Texas.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    seattle
    Posts
    623
    Thanks a lot Alpinord and Mofro

    Does G1 indicate a drill bit size? That is the only term on my Rocker2s that I can see as a possibility.

    Also, in the absence a of a drill press, do you think this tool

    http://www.slidewright.com/svst-cust...j.html?cat=132

    would be a good idea? Is there any way that the guide bit in the center of the tool can be swapped out so that the diameter can be changed?

    I am looking to acquire a kit of tools that will help me take care of my own skis, so any suggestions on indispensable equipment would be welcome.
    Last edited by shasti; 11-28-2011 at 03:00 PM.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    T-town, CO. USA
    Posts
    2,034
    No drill press is needed for mounting ski bindings.
    Leave No Turn Unstoned!

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    off on yet another Tangent
    Posts
    2,219
    Quote Originally Posted by shasti View Post
    Thanks a lot Alpinord and Mofro

    Does G1 indicate a drill bit size? That is the only term on my Rocker2s that I can see as a possibility.

    Also, in the absence a of a drill press, do you think this tool

    http://www.slidewright.com/svst-cust...j.html?cat=132

    would be a good idea? Is there any way that the guide bit in the center of the tool can be swapped out so that the diameter can be changed?

    I am looking to acquire a kit of tools that will help me take care of my own skis, so any suggestions on indispensable equipment would be welcome.
    The SVST jig is designed to fit step drills and 5/16" taps and is sweet. The guide is custom and not interchangeable. It was designed to work for typical alpine stepped drill bits or their 5/16"x1/4" stepped drill that will work for Binding Freedom or Quiver Killer inserts or snowboard heli-coils. Jondrum's Binding Freedom drill and tap guide block will work for F-bits (and loosely for 1/4" bits) and 5/16" taps and loosely for stepped drills (the SVST jig is tighter). How critical this is as a tool? Depends on your tolerance preferences and skills/confidence. For alpine screws where a little out of plumb is OK, not as much as for inserts where alignment and tolerances are more critical.

    Not sure what the G1 signifies.
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Bike Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    2,525
    Quote Originally Posted by butterscotch View Post
    It works okay -- after creasing the centerline, I slide the paper up and down the ski and mark it.
    Huh? If you use a folded strip of paper (a thin strip works better than a whole sheet) - you have to use a separate strip for each point along the ski (you only really need 2). If you slide it up and down, the dimensions of the ski change as you do so . . .

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Hugh's Mom's House
    Posts
    11,192
    Folding paper and marking only two points?

    Next candidate for "I fucked a mount" thread.







    /previous creator of "I fucked a mount thread, but not like that"

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