salomon sth 16 / steel binding adjustment

**pfranc** · 11-22-2011, 09:53 AM

i am looking for info on forward pressure adjustment and micro wing adjustment. is forward pressure correct when worm screw is flush with housing when boot is in bindings? how do you determine when microwings are properly set? thanks in advance

**monkeywrenchMoose** · 11-22-2011, 09:56 AM

Salomon 916 Binding Adjustment.

Simple, loosen the toe wings all the way, so you won't strip them if the boot is bigger than they are set for, and raise the toe height way up too, then you are ready to set the forward pressure.

At the back of the 900 Equipes (as well as the 12 DIN 900s, but not the 916 wormscrew version) there is a tab you raise (twisting a big, standard screw driver does this efficiently), this releases the heel from the tracks. while releasing the heel, slide it forward to where the heel just clears the heel cup and click the boot in. Then look at the heel release tab is. The should be an arrow on either side pointing outward. On either side of the release tab, the lower rear corners of the housing have indentations; when the boot is clicked in, the arrow should be pointing somewhere within the range of the indentations.

If the arrows are beyond the rear end of the indentation, then you need to move the heel back, and if you can't, you need to remount; if they are beyond the front end of the indentation, then you need to move the heel forward, and if you can't you need to remount. It is OK to be on the extreme ends of the range, you just don't want to be past them. Adjustments to the forward pressure should always be done without the boot in the binding, this is true of all makes of bindings that I am aware of.

Then set the toe height, lower it until the sole of the boot is about 1mm from contact with the AFD. A credit card (actually some plastic card slightly thinner than a regular credit card is optimal), works to test this distance; with the boot clicked in, the card should be able to pull free, but with a bit of grabbieness.

Then adjust the toe wings, make sure the boot toe is centered in the toe piece (there should be a seem in the plastic where the sides of the mold met) bring the toe wings in to where they make contact with the sides of the boot, but stop as soon as contact is made, you don't want to tighten the toe wings against tension, as this can partially strip the threads of the wings screws and causes the toe wings to loosen on their own, necessitating constantly readjusting them.

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**Conundrum** · 11-22-2011, 10:15 AM

Salomon spec is .5mm. A credit card is too thick. The card Salomon supplies shops with is barely thicker than normal printer paper.

**marshalolson** · 11-22-2011, 10:17 AM

biznezz card works

**MnO_____** · 11-22-2011, 10:28 AM

I always use normal printer paper for the toe height.

**pfranc** · 11-22-2011, 11:08 AM

thanks all for the info! so the sth is similar to the 916?

**mtnjam** · 11-23-2011, 09:51 PM

thank you very much...just what I was gonna ask

**HellgateBasement** · 12-08-2011, 09:12 AM

bump to ask: what is the max fore/aft adjustment on the sth 16? I've got a line on a pair of skis mounted for a 29 boot (probably 330 somethin'). I'm a 26.5 (305 bsl).

Fuck I'm answering my own question. 100% remount, right?

**arild** · 12-08-2011, 02:22 PM

Remount, toe or heel. I´d do the toe, since there´re fewer screws, thus making it go quicker. but you can sure as hell try!

**bfree** · 12-08-2011, 03:01 PM

Originally Posted by HellgateBasement

bump to ask: what is the max fore/aft adjustment on the sth 16? I've got a line on a pair of skis mounted for a 29 boot (probably 330 somethin'). I'm a 26.5 (305 bsl).

Fuck I'm answering my own question. 100% remount, right?

+/- 12ish. On the rare chance that they were at the very back of the track at 330mm, they would go forward to 306 or so and you'd be fine. More than likely, it's a remount. Like arild said, you can get away with only moving half the binding if you want, but consider where it is going to place your boot center on the ski. If you only move the toe, you'll be behind the previous mount point. If you only move the heel, you'll be forward of the other mount. Remount both toe and heel if you really want the same boot center location.

edit: +/- 12 is for the 916, 997, and 900 that I have, dunno about the STH but I don't think it's changed.

**HellgateBasement** · 12-08-2011, 09:10 PM

Originally Posted by arild

Remount, toe or heel. I´d do the toe, since there´re fewer screws, thus making it go quicker. but you can sure as hell try!

Originally Posted by bfree

+/- 12ish. On the rare chance that they were at the very back of the track at 330mm, they would go forward to 306 or so and you'd be fine. More than likely, it's a remount. Like arild said, you can get away with only moving half the binding if you want, but consider where it is going to place your boot center on the ski. If you only move the toe, you'll be behind the previous mount point. If you only move the heel, you'll be forward of the other mount. Remount both toe and heel if you really want the same boot center location.

edit: +/- 12 is for the 916, 997, and 900 that I have, dunno about the STH but I don't think it's changed.

Thanks. Good info/ideas. Guess I'll see where a partial remount puts me. I'm thinking the skis were mounted pretty close to center so moving back a bit might not be so bad.