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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Aspen
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    8,769

    How long does your bike stay creak free?

    It seems that no matter how much maintenance I put in to my bike it is also making some noise that drives me crazy (I even wear headphones and it still bothers me). At the end of last year I replaced the bottom bracket and all the pivot hardware thinking it would get ride of some creaking. It got rid of the aweful noise, but it definitely isn't silent. I've since taken the bottom bracket apart three times and still can't get rid of it. I swapped pedals and that didn't matter. I learned to live with it and then the bike started making a grinding noise. I took the cassette apart, checked the bearings, lubed the QR. The bearings seemed kinda rough, but I got rid of the noise, so I'm not going to replace the bearings. Now, there is a cracking noise when I grab the front brake. I can replicate it by locking the brake and trying to move the wheel forward. I think it has to do with the front hub, but I'm not sure.

    It's just always one thing after another. Is there really any chance of keeping your bike creak free if you ride it almost every day?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast New York
    Posts
    9,056
    Also check headset, seatpost clamp, front der clamp, saddle rails/clamp, chainrings and a few other things. Those are the most common creaky spots though.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Littleton
    Posts
    2,453
    Don't forget cables/housing (seriously). They creak too.

    Sounds like you however have a creaky steerer.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    15,147
    My new reign is dead silent except for the saddle I pulled off my old bike. Damn thing creaks like crazy and I can't see anyway to fix it. My ass loves it and the last thing I want to spend money on right now is replacing a saddle that is otherwise perfectly fine. I guess I'll just live with it for now.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Aspen
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    8,769
    Quote Originally Posted by JeffreyJim View Post
    Don't forget cables/housing (seriously). They creak too.

    Sounds like you however have a creaky steerer.
    Oh I'm very familiar with creak forks, but it doesn't make a sound when torqued with the wheel off.

    I know all the normal spots to look, but at some point, the creak wins the battle.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Bravo Delta.
    Posts
    6,141
    Cane Creak?
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Littleton
    Posts
    2,453
    ALso I noticed riding in the desert I ended up with creaks far quicker than up here in the mountains. Just a random side note...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Carbondale
    Posts
    11,442
    About 8 minutes... but I'm running on a 6 year old frame with most components still being about 3-6 years old.
    www.dpsskis.com
    www.point6.com
    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    6,244
    It took me about 6 weeks of solid riding to work out most of the creaks on my Ibis. Came down to headset and rear Maxle for the most part.

    Painful. Annoying. And they'll be back.
    I'm so hardcore, I'm gnarcore.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    2,319
    Same boat.

    Fork creaks for sure but I just deal with that because they all usually start at some point. Plus I'm big, which doesn't help.
    Bars, stem, headset.
    BB's get noisy quick and also wear out quick.
    1x front ring... I think I need to have a look at that actually. I haven't gone there yet : )

    But yeah, it's basically just a loosing battle. I deal with it until I can't take it and go after em. Then they come back in a couple weeks.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    25,894
    could be ANYTHING so check EVERYTHING

    I had a bike that came into a shop with a creak that another LBS never fixed ,I tryed everything ,replace all kinds of shit including the BB and the next guy did as well

    it was a VERY slightly loose rear QR lever and the rear wheel was moving sometimes ever so slightly ... nobody removed the back wheel

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Stowe
    Posts
    4,449
    i had my first creak on my Monocog Flite in 10 months of riding it. Took out the BB though a ton of grease in there and its good to go again!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    1,168
    /semi hijack

    My headset or steerer is creaking. That's what I feel it has to be. I tightened up the headset, and a friend thinks it may be the bearing inside. I don't have a press and haven't gotten to the LBS yet, but I'm sorta thinking its the steerer instead. Is this something to be worried/concerned about? Its a 2010 Enduro with a lyrik that I got last May. Fork was rebuilt/upgraded with a mission control DH beginning of this season.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Bravo Delta.
    Posts
    6,141
    Most people don't pull apart bikes, down to the frame, and re-grease steel bolts threaded into aluminum parts/frame, bearings, chains, repack/replace headset bearings, fork oil, etc etc etc. nearly often enough.


    As grease is displaced by water, mud, dirt, and silt, the interfaces between components become contaminated and worn, and the creaks begin. don't bother hunting them down. Especially if you trickle hose or wipe down your bike with water after each ride, you need to re-grease, repack, and re-tighten (and sometimes replace parts). This should happen more than you are currently doing it; you should do this before you begin to hear creaks.

    Pull your bike apart down to the frame and clean and grease everything necessary; you can tear it down, clean and grease, and have it back together in less than an hour. Do this at least 4 or 5 times per riding season; try once a month minimum for starters. Afterwards, 99% of the time, the creaks are gone. If creaks remain, usually its time to replace something that has a worn interface, or just keep riding and live with the creaks until something breaks.

    My bikes get ridden hard and don't creak.


    -----------------------------------------------------

    Short version: if you don't want your bike to creak, do more maintenance. If it creeks after regular maintenance, the damage is done, and you need to replace parts with worn interfaces (and maybe buy better parts), or live with the creaks.
    Quote Originally Posted by Socialist View Post
    They have socalized healthcare up in canada. The whole country is 100% full of pot smoking pro-athlete alcoholics.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    The bottom of LCC
    Posts
    5,751
    My Nomad currently sounds like it's making a fresh batch of popcorn every time I ride it.

    The nice thing about my yz450, even if there are any creaks, there's not a chance in hell that I'll ever hear 'em.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    2,319
    Dude with the headset, tightening it won't fix it. You don't need a press, just pull it apart and grease everything up. Not comfy with that, start learning how to work on your own bike (which is a great thing to do if you ride much) or bow down and take it to the LBS.

    Want to chase the fork creak.
    Take apart the bars and stem and headset, pull the font wheel and clean everything well the re-assemble with grease where it belongs. That "should" eliminate all the easy issue pints. Now put the front wheel between your legs, grab the bars and twist / rock them to torque the fork.

    Got a creak that associates with the torque? Sometimes grit gets under the lower race on the fork and pulling and cleaning then re-install with anti seize (if you are into that) can fix it. And you can look into the crown creaking while it's all pulled apart. This last part is LBS territory unless you have the means to pull a race and re-press it.

    Good luck.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    8,769
    Well my freehub exploded on the trail today, so that noise is fixed.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Here
    Posts
    685
    What grease is appropriate to use? Is there a grease that will do everything or specific greases for specific parts?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    8,769
    Quote Originally Posted by Anospa View Post
    /semi hijack

    My headset or steerer is creaking. That's what I feel it has to be. I tightened up the headset, and a friend thinks it may be the bearing inside. I don't have a press and haven't gotten to the LBS yet, but I'm sorta thinking its the steerer instead. Is this something to be worried/concerned about? Its a 2010 Enduro with a lyrik that I got last May. Fork was rebuilt/upgraded with a mission control DH beginning of this season.
    Take the wheel off, and twist the lowers. I guarantee you this will be the creaking. It's a problem with the crown/stanchion interface. I've warrantied both a Lyrik and 36 Float because of this problem.
    Last edited by funkendrenchman; 06-22-2011 at 06:57 PM.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Land of Brine Shrimp and Magic Underwear
    Posts
    6,210
    Hey Funken don't forget about your seatpost, this is the source of many loud, annoying creaks. Before dropper posts, you knew it was dry from raising and lowering it. Now that all of us run adjustable seatposts, you never mess with it and don't really think about it and it can get real dry and nasty without you realizing it.

    Also, I replaced my whole drivetrain this season to chase a creak that migrated over from my OLD BIKE! I was pretty demoralized when that didn't help until I greased up the interface between my freehub body and cassette. Since then I've been relatively creak free.

    I generally use a lightweight lithium type grease, especially where a heavier grease can cause drag like inside your freehub body. For something more tenacious, Rock'n'Roll super slick grease is nice. For the really persistent creaks though it's tough to beat regular old automotive anti seize, that shit hangs on forever. Be careful with it though, because you'll find smears of it in the damndest places like a week later with no idea how it got there.

    Gonna go lube my seatpost now...
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow... flying through the air.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Aspen
    Posts
    8,769
    Quote Originally Posted by beaterdit View Post

    Also, I replaced my whole drivetrain this season to chase a creak that migrated over from my OLD BIKE! I was pretty demoralized when that didn't help until I greased up the interface between my freehub body and cassette. Since then I've been relatively creak free.
    This is one thing I haven't done. Whenever I get my new freehub, I'll try it out.

  22. #22
    131crew Guest
    Remove, clean, and lightly grease your rear der. hanger where it interfaces with your bike's dropout (after you get a new freehub.)

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aspen, Colorado
    Posts
    2,649
    Quote Originally Posted by dfinn View Post
    My Nomad currently sounds like it's making a fresh batch of popcorn every time I ride it.

    The nice thing about my yz450, even if there are any creaks, there's not a chance in hell that I'll ever hear 'em.
    I had an old Santa cruz Superlight which my friends dubbed the Santa Creak. Antiseize and teflon taped helped the bb noises. My 2009 Enduro SL is still nice and quiet.

    My 300 XCW had a rear brake spring which rubbed on the swingarm. It sounded like a horrible violin. After I replaced the swingarm pivots I finally located the noisy gremlin

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    3,176
    I finally have a creak free Sanction. Teflon bushings to replace the metal ones courtesy of G.T. and lots of grease in both those main I drive pivots is essential. Iscariot has good points in his post.

    The bike has been dead silent now for about three weeks. It really is sweet, it's like riding a mountain lion. I hate creaks and squeaks, so hard to just ignore. It feels like they sap your energy.
    "The skis just popped me up out of the snow and I went screaming down the hill on a high better than any heroin junkie." She Ra

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    SLCizzy
    Posts
    3,023
    Been riding my NomadC since last August creak free w/minimal maintenance. Iscariot has some good points, but I feel that the more you disassemble and reassemble pivots, the more wear and tear you are putting on the hardware, which can actually lead to more issues.
    "Sound isolation and elimination is the primary function of the modern bicycle mechanic". Thats a sentence I like to repeat in robot voice to all my new hires.
    Some good advice in here this thread, but these are my usual suspects: BBs are low hanging fruit, chainring bolts can be tight but dry, seat clamp hardware can by dry or gritty, the rails in a seat do well with a little teflon where they enter the body of the seat, grit/dry under the seatpost clamp, grit in headset cups, the der hanger tip is a new, awesome creak elimination move, thin layer of grease on the freehub body, pedals, make sure all bolts have grease on threads.

    One thing I have been noticing is sometimes people over-grease, that will make things go away very temporarily, but they will come back as the excess grease picks up grime.

    Funk, what bike are you riding now? Sometimes individual bikes will have their usual culprits that shop folks can key in on.

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