RWC needle bearing replacement kits for DU bushings

[dfinn]

Fully toasted the rear DU bushing on my Nomad in Moab the weekend before last. Mr AG had some good things to say about the Real World Cycling (aka Enduro Seals) needle bearing kits that install in place of your DU bushings. More info here:

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id275.html

They cost me $20 versus the $5 a normal DU bushing would cost and according to the guys at go-ride they should last infinitely longer.

I have about 3 rides on this setup so far and it's a noticeable difference that I think is well worth the cost. Small bump sensitivity is much better than before and the bike feels more plush all through it's travel. It was enough of a difference that I actually had to adjust my rebound/compression settings slightly.

I'm definitely planning on putting these on the big bike too once it's time for DU bushing replacement on that one.

[DirkaDirkaJack]

i got really tired of using up a set of DU bushings basically once every weekend of riding, so i got those things for my Sunday.

They are way better for sure in terms of not wearing out. i have a little slop on between the ID of the bearing and the bolt going through everything though, but its probably the bolt (although it is a nice expensive one with a ground OD, not a hardware store bolt).

make sure you grease the OD of the bearings before you press them into your shock too...

[Dromond]

I have one of these on my Enduro Sl. (Dfinns old bike.) The operation is smooth though I haven't used it much yet. I do get some noticeable play and "knock" sound out of it which is annoying. A friend forwarded this to me:


Question from random dude:

I seem to have devleoped a slight amount of play in my lower bearing. it is the 40mm kit with two spacers for a 41mm fit on a Tracer VP. The play feels like it is between the 6mm adapter sleeve and the bolt, or the 6mm sleeve and the 8mm steel bearing sleeve. If i lift the tire off the gournd, then lower it back, I can feel a very slight amount of play vertically but none laterally. I've checked torque values on all the suspension bolts, and also the bearing play on the VPP suspension links and they are all fine.

I did not have this play till after a few rides on the new needle bearings. Any ideas?

Owner of RWC:

Based on your thorough explanation, everything is fine. Yes, I know it doesn't seem fine, but it is. Here's why: You've already determined there is no lateral play and everything is torqued to spec. Therefore, the outer spacers are "captured" between the mounts, putting pressure on the steel inner ring (needle bearing axle). In addition to "pinching" the inner ring, the spacers also surround it for several millimeters on each side. The inner ring can not move vertically on the bolt when captured this way. Before tightening everything down, yes, you could have vertical play between the bolt/spacer/inner ring, but not after proper torqueing. Therefore, the play you are feeling is the designed clearance between the needle bearing rollers and the inner ring. Unlike a DU bushing, the needle bearing rollers need room to roll. Otherwise, the hardened rollers and inner ring would damage each other. Under riding condtions, this minute amount of play will never be felt. However, when isolating the initial movement, as you describe, it can sometimes be felt. This is just part of the system.

[drsmonkey]

I put the bearings on the top pivot of my 7Point because the 10mm bolt was getting worn instead of the bushing. I think I felt the difference, but I could never really convince myself it wasn't in my head because I had spent $48. It did replace the proprietary bolt that was impossible to find after IH bit the dust with a common 8mm bolt, so it was worth it.

[dfinn]

^ I'm not sure I fully smell what you're steppin' in but most people only need one of these needle bearing kits.

For example, if you watch the shock compress on a nomad there is hardly any rotation on the front bushing so there wouldn't really be any benefit of converting that one.

[Acadian]

been using these for a while (on shocks I can) and yes, they definitely make a difference. Mine have been solid and play free ever since getting them.

had them on my Reign for a full year and on my Alpine for as long.

[sethschmautz]

I'd like to add these to my bike but the tool list that RWC put together for me to do it myself was about $120 (on top of the bearings). I'm not sure how many of these are necessary and how many are nice to have (or could be replaced with something that I build myself). Can anybody give me any input? Here's what RWC suggested:

https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...ools/NBT3.html
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...ools/DUP2.html
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...s/SBT-HS1.html

Thanks,

Seth

[kidwoo]

You have a vice?

[sethschmautz]

Yes.

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[ridinshockgun]

I'd like to add these to my bike but the tool list that RWC put together for me to do it myself was about $120 (on top of the bearings). I'm not sure how many of these are necessary and how many are nice to have (or could be replaced with something that I build myself). Can anybody give me any input? Here's what RWC suggested:

https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...ools/NBT3.html
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...ools/DUP2.html
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/prod...s/SBT-HS1.html

Thanks,

Seth

You can do it without the tools but you'll cuss more, fuss more, and be more likely to screw something up. Really depends on how much you value time vs money. I will say that with the tools this is like a 5 min job.

Personally, if anything has a special tool I usually buy it because every time I do I'm really happy I did when everything pops right together with no fuss. And buying the tool is ALWAYS cheaper than paying a bike shop to do something.

[kidwoo]

Yes.

Then you don't need all that other shit. Especially not for a single use. Vice, some small sockets and don't be an idiot and crank down your steel vice on your aluminum shock body. That's all you need.

If you have any angle aluminum laying around you can cut some small sections and use them as soft jaws for your vice.

[Andeh]

You can do it without the tools but you'll cuss more, fuss more, and be more likely to screw something up. Really depends on how much you value time vs money. I will say that with the tools this is like a 5 min job.

Personally, if anything has a special tool I usually buy it because every time I do I'm really happy I did when everything pops right together with no fuss. And buying the tool is ALWAYS cheaper than paying a bike shop to do something.

This. I put the RWC kit on my previous bike and it was super easy (half beer job) with the right tool. Similarly, this week I replaced my Fox 36 seals with the fancy green SKF ones, and was really glad I had the Fox seal driver to set them in <1 min after cursing and struggling for like 10 minutes prying the old ones out.

[dfinn]

Remember when Acadian used to ride bikes?

[sethschmautz]

Thanks all. The handles are the expensive part, I think, and I should be able to get by without those with a bolt/washers. I think I may buy the DU pilot and the needle bearing install tool to make sure I don't mess it up. That's $40 in tools rather than $120.

Seth

[kidwoo]

Remember when Acadian used to ride bikes?

Still does.

They're just hardtails with slicks around SF

[Eluder]

Im pretty sure I still have the tools in my kit, Im in whitefish.

[Skistack]

Make your own bearing press! I did get the little needle bearing tool, but it’s probably not necessary if you’re careful.


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[sethschmautz]

Make your own bearing press! I did get the little needle bearing tool, but it’s probably not necessary if you’re careful.


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That was the direction I was going until eluder mentioned he had the tools and was local.

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