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  1. #9551
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Was UT, AK, now MT
    Posts
    13,526
    Quote Originally Posted by DanoT View Post
    Generator auto start function for low voltage batteries does exist. Winnebago EKKO has it, along with a $150k+ price tag. Other Rvs have this feature as well.
    Yeah, problem with most portable genset is no starter, just pull start. But decent lithium batteries kinda negate the need to run down and mess with a generator mid-day.

  2. #9552
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    4,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Trackhead View Post
    Too bad there isn't on-demand generator start function that would start genset if voltage dropped below 12.1 or so.....

    I rebuilt my camper to also keep the batteries inside, warmer temps, less voltage drop.
    I believe my two house batteries are inside the camper, so to speak. Where a pass-thru window would exist, mine has a bump out and thereby a step where the two batteries are house, putting them inside the insulation. So, in theory, that should help.

    Quote Originally Posted by altasnob View Post
    Why don't you use your car's alternator and a dc to dc charger as an in-house generator to charge your camper battery to power your propane and/or diesel heater. I believe alternator/dc to dc charger works better driving around versus idling but can be used to charge idling in a pinch as well. Also, even in the PNW winter you will get something from a roof top solar panel, so long as you clear snow from it (I was getting 1 amp an hour yesterday from 175 watt panel on an overcast/snowing day at Snoqualmie). Not enough to power the furnace alone but every bit helps. Also, upgrade your battery capacity so you can get through a few days.

    Also, my 12,000 BTU Attwood propane furnace uses 3.4 amps an hour to run the furnace fan. 7 amps an hour seems like a lot but your camper is bigger than mine.
    Solar has been on the back of my mind. I see many new campers either come with panels or pre-wired to accept them. I have the roof real estate to mount them, though it's a big project for an electrics gaper like me.

    As for my furnace, I should probably check on the amp draw of it.

    I just replaced one of the house batteries. They are big, girthy m-fers. Later this spring, it might be a good project to see about bigger capacities, or - gulp - popping for lithium units.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Convert the H2200 to propane since you're already committed to that anyway. Hutch Mountain sells the dual or tri-fuel conversion kit.
    I had no idea. That's pretty cool. I don't think I'd convert my Honda generator as I use it spring, summer, and fall for motorcycle track days and races where I have plenty of gas around. If I were to go propane generator, I'd go full send and have an onboard unit installed and plumbed for propane. My Lance is already wired to accept one of those green Onan propane generators.

  3. #9553
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,735
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobcat Sig View Post
    I believe my two house batteries are inside the camper, so to speak. Where a pass-thru window would exist, mine has a bump out and thereby a step where the two batteries are house, putting them inside the insulation. So, in theory, that should help.



    Solar has been on the back of my mind. I see many new campers either come with panels or pre-wired to accept them. I have the roof real estate to mount them, though it's a big project for an electrics gaper like me.

    As for my furnace, I should probably check on the amp draw of it.

    I just replaced one of the house batteries. They are big, girthy m-fers. Later this spring, it might be a good project to see about bigger capacities, or - gulp - popping for lithium units.



    I had no idea. That's pretty cool. I don't think I'd convert my Honda generator as I use it spring, summer, and fall for motorcycle track days and races where I have plenty of gas around. If I were to go propane generator, I'd go full send and have an onboard unit installed and plumbed for propane. My Lance is already wired to accept one of those green Onan propane generators.

    Dual fuel runs on gas or propane at the flick of switch, add in nat gas on the tri-fuel conversion. For us intermittent users on propane only no fouled carbs ever.

    Onan has a new 2500 out now. The only hangup with generators is in a campground w restricted genny hours. I'd give 6v a look if you upgrade batts. Lithium batts require heaters to charge at cold temps.

  4. #9554
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobcat Sig View Post
    It's tempting, if a bit fiddly to figure out wiring, plumbing, and tank location. My camper also has on-demand hot water, three burner stove, and oven, so propane would need to remain.

    I think I may look into an onboard generator. My unit is pre-wired for one and would run off propane. That could help significantly. Alternatively, the storage compartment in the beavertail of the camper can fit my Honda EU2200i generator. I could then bolt a rotopax fuel canister to the ladder for charging and such.
    You already have arguably the best, quietist, most efficient portable generator on the market with the EU2200.
    Simply maximize you charging system (check with an RV dealer) and use the generator as needed outside the camper. An onboard gen set will tie up storage space, cost major $$ and be noisy as hell inside the camper when running.
    Aside from the previously mentioned fire hazard, it is very unlikely you could find a lower wattage fan to fit inside the furnace mechanism

  5. #9555
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    342
    Ok question, I have a line on a few decent fiberglass campers. The big hold up now is a vehicle to handle them. I’m set on a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel pickup. Likely a 3rd gen Cummins. However, would like to scope out how necessary you all think 4wd is vs Rwd. My thinking is maybe it’s not quite as important as I might think given all the weight over the rear axle with the camper? Planning on using it as primarily a ski parking lot/travel rig. Won’t be doing any off roading…

    thoughts or experiences?

  6. #9556
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    21,164
    Quote Originally Posted by ASP View Post
    Ok question, I have a line on a few decent fiberglass campers. The big hold up now is a vehicle to handle them. I’m set on a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel pickup. Likely a 3rd gen Cummins. However, would like to scope out how necessary you all think 4wd is vs Rwd. My thinking is maybe it’s not quite as important as I might think given all the weight over the rear axle with the camper? Planning on using it as primarily a ski parking lot/travel rig. Won’t be doing any off roading…

    thoughts or experiences?
    IMHO you'll regret buying a 2WD truck for winter use, no matter how much weight you put in the bed.

    Someone will be along shortly to proclaim how awesome their XYZ vehicle is in snow with only RWD...
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #9557
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Was UT, AK, now MT
    Posts
    13,526
    Quote Originally Posted by ASP View Post
    Ok question, I have a line on a few decent fiberglass campers. The big hold up now is a vehicle to handle them. I’m set on a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel pickup. Likely a 3rd gen Cummins. However, would like to scope out how necessary you all think 4wd is vs Rwd. My thinking is maybe it’s not quite as important as I might think given all the weight over the rear axle with the camper? Planning on using it as primarily a ski parking lot/travel rig. Won’t be doing any off roading…

    thoughts or experiences?
    I have Dodge 2500 4x4 that I use a lot in summer/winter with 2000lb fiberglass camper. I'd get 4WD even though you'll only use it 1% of the time. Yes, the extra weight in the rear is great when 2x4 with camper, but there are times you'll regret not having 4x4 when you invariably do something stupid. Also, look for a truck with airbags.....
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #9558
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,643
    x3 on 4x4. I'll add low range can be super helpful in certain scenarios, especially in a big old bus of a rig.

  9. #9559
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Udapimp
    Posts
    972
    when that 2x4 frontend gets light in the slush you gonna want some traction on the steering tires
    embrace the gape
    and believe

  10. #9560
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    1,735
    Makes no sense to get a 3/4T or 2wd, 1T and 4x4 all the way. The 1T has marginal payload for some glass campers. I would get a gasser in preference to a diesel in order to get a 1T and/or 4x4.

  11. #9561
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    4,279
    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Dual fuel runs on gas or propane at the flick of switch, add in nat gas on the tri-fuel conversion. For us intermittent users on propane only no fouled carbs ever.

    Onan has a new 2500 out now. The only hangup with generators is in a campground w restricted genny hours. I'd give 6v a look if you upgrade batts. Lithium batts require heaters to charge at cold temps.
    I like it. I'll give the tri-fuel a look. My Lance has exterior hose access for propane, so that could be pretty slick if I went that route.

    Quote Originally Posted by apex dave View Post
    You already have arguably the best, quietist, most efficient portable generator on the market with the EU2200.
    Simply maximize you charging system (check with an RV dealer) and use the generator as needed outside the camper. An onboard gen set will tie up storage space, cost major $$ and be noisy as hell inside the camper when running.
    Aside from the previously mentioned fire hazard, it is very unlikely you could find a lower wattage fan to fit inside the furnace mechanism
    Fair enough. I had a suspicion that the Honda EU would the jam. Now I know.

    Quote Originally Posted by Trackhead View Post
    I have Dodge 2500 4x4 that I use a lot in summer/winter with 2000lb fiberglass camper. I'd get 4WD even though you'll only use it 1% of the time. Yes, the extra weight in the rear is great when 2x4 with camper, but there are times you'll regret not having 4x4 when you invariably do something stupid. Also, look for a truck with airbags.....
    Click image for larger version. 

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    4x4 FTW. I've been debating on ditching both the truck and the camper to swap for a Class C. But after camping out of it during an all-time storm in Mammoth, and an equally spicy drive home; I'm firmly on the 4x4+camper team. Oh, and +1 on the airbags. I managed to find my truck with them installed and when the bags are properly inflated, it hauls the loaded camper like a dream. It also helps tremendously when I haul my enclosed trailer with the stinger.

  12. #9562
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,164
    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Makes no sense to get a 3/4T or 2wd, 1T and 4x4 all the way. The 1T has marginal payload for some glass campers. I would get a gasser in preference to a diesel in order to get a 1T and/or 4x4.
    There is often very little difference between a 3/4 and 1-ton labeled SRW pickup. Many, but not all, are identical save for the badge and door jamb sticker.

    You have to do your research on the specific trucks you're shopping for. On Ford, for example, the F250 often comes with a 4-leaf rear spring pack (5-leaf optional), and the F350 comes standard with a 5-leaf pack. There are some other minor differences, but that's the main one as far as cargo carrying.

    Depending on where you live, 1-ton trucks may be subject to higher registration fees vs 3/4-ton. Depends on how your state taxes trucks based on GVWR. Ford, for example, will let you order a F350 truck with a down rated door jamb GVWR sticker as low as 10,000# - even though it is configured identically to one with an 11,500# rating.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #9563
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    slc
    Posts
    17,971
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Ford, for example, will let you order a F350 truck with a down rated door jamb GVWR sticker as low as 10,000# - even though it is configured identically to one with an 11,500# rating.

  14. #9564
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    I’m pretty happy with my Timbrens as an alternative to airbags. Easy install, low/zero maintenance. Effective for body roll and squat.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Gravity always wins...

  15. #9565
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    4,603

    Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

    What maintenance do airbags require? Keep them clean? Check the air pressure now and then? Do you have tires on your truck??

    Run what you want but airbag maintenance is not a thing afaik.

    Edit… maybe I read your post wrong. But I don’t see the relative benefit of timbrens over airbags unless you’re loaded more or less full time.

  16. #9566
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    Ok, they do leak down. If you have less than 5 psi, they can pinch or tear during flexion because they aren’t bubbled out. I do have tires on my truck, and they do occasionally need to be repaired or replaced. I have gotten flat tires, have you?
    I was simply mentioning a product that works for me, that might interest folks. UPS trucks and some other fleet vehicles run timbrens because they are set and forget.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Gravity always wins...

  17. #9567
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Posts
    342
    good to know thanks fellas! Figured as much! Had found a good candidate up in BC but its 2wd. Will keep hunting for a used 4x4 1 ton...

  18. #9568
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Was UT, AK, now MT
    Posts
    13,526
    Quote Originally Posted by riff View Post
    Ok, they do leak down. If you have less than 5 psi, they can pinch or tear during flexion because they aren’t bubbled out. I do have tires on my truck, and they do occasionally need to be repaired or replaced. I have gotten flat tires, have you?
    I was simply mentioning a product that works for me, that might interest folks. UPS trucks and some other fleet vehicles run timbrens because they are set and forget.
    Yup, my airbags leak now. Gotta get under there and do some work.

  19. #9569
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ottawa
    Posts
    817
    Quote Originally Posted by ASP View Post
    good to know thanks fellas! Figured as much! Had found a good candidate up in BC but its 2wd. Will keep hunting for a used 4x4 1 ton...
    Don't know how far you're willing to go to get one, but keep an eye on gcsurplus.ca

    Browse items for sale (gcsurplus.ca)

    There are currently at least a couple F-350 SRW 4WD's in Ontario, not much in BC and Alberta right now though.
    Quote Originally Posted by jlboyell View Post
    Climate change deniers should be in the same boat as the flat earthers, ridiculed for stupidity.

  20. #9570
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    277
    Quote Originally Posted by Trackhead View Post
    Yup, my airbags leak now. Gotta get under there and do some work.
    We have airbags on our class C and I check and top them up once a year. They have good longevity considering the unit is 20 years old.

  21. #9571
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    825
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASP View Post
    good to know thanks fellas! Figured as much! Had found a good candidate up in BC but its 2wd. Will keep hunting for a used 4x4 1 ton...
    To help avoid tearing an airbag, I use Daystar airbag cradles w/my Firestone airbags. I have a 1st gen Tundra with a Northstar pop up on it. The airbag basically rests in the cradle on the bottom part, so if you're on rough or 4X4 roads, you won't tear a bag-totally worth the extra $ if you're exploring. My bags are 4 years old and no leaks so far...

  22. #9572
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    1,498
    RV mags, I'm in a tricky spot and wondering if anybody has insight/advice. In short, my ski van and effectively everything else I owned was destroyed in the Marshall Fire (Boulder, CO) on Dec. 30th.

    It was insured, and I had previously disclosed and provided value estimates for the conversion costs (all DIY, fml). My biggest fear in owning this thing was always valuation during a total loss event, and here we are. I think insurance is undervaluing the van by ~$10K. They have depreciated the conversion costs listed on the policy by roughly 80%. Fully prepared to get kicked in the crotch on this but I'd like to at least make an attempt at a counter offer.

    My questions are:
    1) Has anybody successfully countered an auto insurance claim, and if so what was the process?
    2) What supporting documentation, if any, would help my cause?

    Always meant to post pictures of the build/van here and definitely regret not doing so, but here are some of the few I have left. RIP ski van, 350+ nights in this thing.





  23. #9573
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Gaperville, CO
    Posts
    5,848
    Damn -- sorry for your loss dude.

    I wonder if any of the local van outfitting companies would write up an estimate for you on actual market value for a rig like that. The folks at Oasis Campervans and Vanlife Customs have always been helpful even though I wasn't buying shit from them.

  24. #9574
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Sun Peaks Resort
    Posts
    866
    Quote Originally Posted by doebedoe View Post
    Damn -- sorry for your loss dude.

    I wonder if any of the local van outfitting companies would write up an estimate for you on actual market value for a rig like that. The folks at Oasis Campervans and Vanlife Customs have always been helpful even though I wasn't buying shit from them.
    ^^^This is what i was thinking. If a builder is reluctant to give a written estimate, then have a "parts" list and ask what their price would be to build and install these items. Then write down the conversation as you remember it and present that to the adjuster. If need be, invite the adjuster to call the shop to confirm that you had contacted them and had a conversation about van build costs.

  25. #9575
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Imaginationland
    Posts
    4,794
    Quote Originally Posted by North View Post
    RV mags, I'm in a tricky spot and wondering if anybody has insight/advice. In short, my ski van and effectively everything else I owned was destroyed in the Marshall Fire (Boulder, CO) on Dec. 30th.

    It was insured, and I had previously disclosed and provided value estimates for the conversion costs (all DIY, fml). My biggest fear in owning this thing was always valuation during a total loss event, and here we are. I think insurance is undervaluing the van by ~$10K. They have depreciated the conversion costs listed on the policy by roughly 80%. Fully prepared to get kicked in the crotch on this but I'd like to at least make an attempt at a counter offer.

    My questions are:
    1) Has anybody successfully countered an auto insurance claim, and if so what was the process?
    2) What supporting documentation, if any, would help my cause?

    Always meant to post pictures of the build/van here and definitely regret not doing so, but here are some of the few I have left. RIP ski van, 350+ nights in this thing.




    I have no advice on the insurance issue. Just wanted to say if you lost all your gear, shoot me a pm and I will help where I can.

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