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  1. #7651
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Agreed, with the possible exception of whether you live in a state that charges considerably higher registration fees once the truck hits heavy enough GVWR. Some states do. I live in NV, which doesn't.

    The "overkill is just about right" approach to truck size is why I am about to order a SRW F350 for a new camper hauler truck, instead of a F250. Slightly higher payload over the F250, and higher GVWR/ GCWR, which is never a bad thing. It'll have approx 4000# payload capacity, a nice step up from my old GMC Sierra 2500 with approx 3000# payload.
    I'm sure you've already considered it, but if you think you might ever want to upgrade to something really big, get the dually now.

  2. #7652
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    buy a van
    skip the truck and camper
    works just fine can totally load it down if you get the 3500 don't have any problems with my tiled shower granite counter tops and bidet

  3. #7653
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    I'm sure you've already considered it, but if you think you might ever want to upgrade to something really big, get the dually now.
    Most of our camping is dirt road USFS type stuff, dispersed, try to avoid all designated campgrounds. Dually would make that harder, as would the giant camper that would justify a dually.

    But true, anyone going for mega camper or 5th wheel should look at a dually. And always buy the long bed. Full size trucks are bulky and difficult to park even with the goofy short beds. If you're going to bother with the downsides of a fullsize, get a long bed and at least make it worthwhile.

    I know some people just like driving big trucks. I don't get it. They drive like crap and suck on gas. I wouldn't own one if I didn't have a camper to put in it. I'd buy a Ridgeline, which would do all the non-camper-carrying things I need a truck to do, and do it much more comfortably and efficiently.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  4. #7654
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    Man i can see how the goggles got fogged. Dood is steamin'. Mustve bought a dodge. Oh well....

    Anywho, does anyone run one of those mini pellet stoves? I cant seem to find them. Kid in his camper in town has one in his truck camper he said worked like a charm the last couple winters. He said 1000cad. A name or a link ,would be interested in checking them out

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  5. #7655
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Man i can see how the goggles got fogged. Dood is steamin'. Mustve bought a dodge. Oh well....[/URL]
    Meh, he's right despite the jade tone of Safety Bob.

    I think I'll squeak another season outta my camper and then sell it for 300% profit. Maybe build something more appropriate for the truck. Wrap up the experiment and call it a win without ever having to own some big expensive mantruck.

  6. #7656
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    Dood is steamin'
    Not so much buddy but think what you want. Seriously, look at the picture you posted. Does it even look right? I'm glad you like your Tundra. It's just the wrong outfit for the job. If you think I give a shit, you're wrong.

  7. #7657
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    Not so much buddy but think what you want. Seriously, look at the picture you posted. Does it even look right? I'm glad you like your Tundra. It's just the wrong outfit for the job. If you think I give a shit, you're wrong.
    Just razzin' ya.
    Loading shit and hauling shit is kind of my job. Maybe im in the habit of being overloaded.
    I know you made a fair point. It is a bit low at the back. I also know that tundra axles and drive shaft are overbuilt, atleast compared to NA 1/2 tons. Same with my old 91 yota. Drive shaft looked strangely big for that tiny little truck. Put leafs in and handled like a top. The tundra wouldnt need as much of a spring boost as the old yota too. After my 8 hr drive thru the mountains it handled quite well. Trani temp didnt move. Tight corners i slowed but 50-60mph most of the way. The tie downs come off the frame so im not too worried about the box. Ill give it a couple months and see where i go with it. Mid summer sale of truck and/or camper shouldnt be much of a loss, especially if i work out of it.
    But don't worry bud, im taking your criticism into account. #ramtough

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  8. #7658
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    Oh ya, didnt come here to plead my case. Thanks though foggy, serious. And Norse of course

    Came for teh knowledge! Mini pellet stove- anyone have the beta? Thought that'd be the way to go for a multi day skiing trip. Save a lit of propane and get rid of moisture instead of adding moisture with propane

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  9. #7659
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    Meh, he's right despite the jade tone of Safety Bob.

    I think I'll squeak another season outta my camper and then sell it for 300% profit. Maybe build something more appropriate for the truck. Wrap up the experiment and call it a win without ever having to own some big expensive mantruck.
    Mantruck vs tundra = trade-off. Hauling or towing heavy loads? Mantruck is stunningly superior. For everything else, the tundra is equally superior. The tundra was like owning a car (in a good way). I miss it.

    All that having been said, given the weight of your camper and your suspension mods, I wouldn't say you need to build something more appropriate. Your rig probably drives as well if not better than a mantruck with a heavy camper.

    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Most of our camping is dirt road USFS type stuff, dispersed, try to avoid all designated campgrounds. Dually would make that harder, as would the giant camper that would justify a dually.

    But true, anyone going for mega camper or 5th wheel should look at a dually. And always buy the long bed. Full size trucks are bulky and difficult to park even with the goofy short beds. If you're going to bother with the downsides of a fullsize, get a long bed and at least make it worthwhile.

    I know some people just like driving big trucks. I don't get it. They drive like crap and suck on gas. I wouldn't own one if I didn't have a camper to put in it. I'd buy a Ridgeline, which would do all the non-camper-carrying things I need a truck to do, and do it much more comfortably and efficiently.
    Shit, I think you said that many pages ago and I forgot because of old age and what not.

    And yeah, ridgelines are great.

  10. #7660
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Oh ya, didnt come here to plead my case. Thanks though foggy, serious. And Norse of course

    Came for teh knowledge! Mini pellet stove- anyone have the beta? Thought that'd be the way to go for a multi day skiing trip. Save a lit of propane and get rid of moisture instead of adding moisture with propane

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

    Here's one:

    https://www.crossingcreeksrvresort.c...stoves-for-rvs

  11. #7661
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    I'm sure you've already considered it, but if you think you might ever want to upgrade to something really big, get the dually now.

    Dually's are where I draw the line. Not great in snow because of the low ground pressure on the rear tires. I'm planning on a pop up on a 3500 so I can tow the fishing boat as well. I brain cramped last March by not ordering the one I had spec'd out at Hallmark.

  12. #7662
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Very cool. Thanks. The dickinson and the cubic mini look like great options. Cubic mini has requirements of 3" from the fireproofed wall and 20" in front of it to be clear so 2 ft of space. Itd be close but that might work. Short burn time. Found a review that said they loved it as their only heat source apart from having to reload it every 2-3 hours. Ill have to look how the dickinson stacks up to that

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  13. #7663
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Dually's are where I draw the line. Not great in snow because of the low ground pressure on the rear tires. I'm planning on a pop up on a 3500 so I can tow the fishing boat as well. I brain cramped last March by not ordering the one I had spec'd out at Hallmark.
    Surely snow tires can remedy this, no? And doesn't the extra weight they carry offset the dually tire width issue? Just wondering because I've thought a dually Ford Transit or Sprinter would be the ticket once fully laden.
    OH, MY GAWD! ―John Hillerman  Big Billie Eilish fan.
    But that's a quibble to what PG posted (at first, anyway, I haven't read his latest book) ―jono
    we are not arguing about ski boots or fashionable clothing or spageheti O's which mean nothing in the grand scheme ― XXX-er

  14. #7664
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Dually's are where I draw the line. Not great in snow because of the low ground pressure on the rear tires. I'm planning on a pop up on a 3500 so I can tow the fishing boat as well. I brain cramped last March by not ordering the one I had spec'd out at Hallmark.
    I let that logic talk me out of getting a dually when I should have. All the guys with 5500lb campers and duallies at the mountain say they're getting plenty of weight over their tires.

    But yeah, I wouldn't want a light camper with a dually. I might look into 19.5s with michelin snowflake commercial tires.

  15. #7665
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    Pretty cool 4wd (6wd) RV here, and as a bonus the interior already looks like a ski lodge!

    https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/r...309604893.html
    "Holy Cow!" someone exclaimed from the back of the stationwagon.

  16. #7666
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    I wonder how much it cost to add four-wheel-drive to something like that.

  17. #7667
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    Quote Originally Posted by puregravity View Post
    Surely snow tires can remedy this, no? And doesn't the extra weight they carry offset the dually tire width issue? Just wondering because I've thought a dually Ford Transit or Sprinter would be the ticket once fully laden.
    I see no need at all for a dually Transit (or the shittier Sprinter) unless you’re using it as an actual cargo van rather than a camping van.

    Using modern build materials (aluminum etc) a fully converted 130” WB cargo van (heater/full kitchen/25 gal water tank/fridge/storage/bed) loaded up with food, water, ski gear, mtn bikes) has a weight of 6300-6900 lbs depending on 2WD vs 4WD, rescue gear, etc. Since the payload is rated around 4,000 lbs with the single rears, you’re using around 25-33% of the payload...and that’s a conservative calculation based on the actual shit you take on a trip (water etc) rather than the wishful thinking of the guys running campers on their yotas

  18. #7668
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    I see no need at all for a dually Transit (or the shittier Sprinter) unless you’re using it as an actual cargo van rather than a camping van.

    Using modern build materials (aluminum etc) a fully converted 130” WB cargo van (heater/full kitchen/25 gal water tank/fridge/storage/bed) loaded up with food, water, ski gear, mtn bikes) has a weight of 6300-6900 lbs depending on 2WD vs 4WD, rescue gear, etc. Since the payload is rated around 4,000 lbs with the single rears, you’re using around 25-33% of the payload...and that’s a conservative calculation based on the actual shit you take on a trip (water etc) rather than the wishful thinking of the guys running campers on their yotas
    That is amazingly light for fully loaded up with all gear, food, water, etc. What do those vans weigh if just an empty shell, no conversion into camper? Transit is unibody like a Sprinter, right?

    Fullsize 3/4-ton truck weighs like 6000# empty, nothing in the bed. That's my basis for bench racing weights...
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  19. #7669
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattig View Post
    I let that logic talk me out of getting a dually when I should have. All the guys with 5500lb campers and duallies at the mountain say they're getting plenty of weight over their tires.

    But yeah, I wouldn't want a light camper with a dually. I might look into 19.5s with michelin snowflake commercial tires.

    Yeah the heavy campers basically require a dually.

  20. #7670
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Oh ya, didnt come here to plead my case. Thanks though foggy, serious. And Norse of course

    Came for teh knowledge! Mini pellet stove- anyone have the beta? Thought that'd be the way to go for a multi day skiing trip. Save a lit of propane and get rid of moisture instead of adding moisture with propane

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    The move is an externally vented propane, gas, or diesel furnace such as a Propex, Webasto, or Espar. Dry heat, compact package thermostat controlled, and sips fuel. Only downsides are involved are involved installs and $$$

  21. #7671
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    Oct 2011
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    I'm not a fan of dually's. Had an F350 dually with a large truck camper on it and the dually removes one of the benefits of truck campers -- light off road use. It's so wide that the typical narrow 2-track is a no-go. I would go with a SRW next time if I was going to go with a slide-in truck camper.

    I went with that setup for the 4wd aspect since it was really hard to find a decent 4wd class C RV, but I found that the primary use case of summer camping was limited to mostly developed campgrounds.

    We actually do more light off-road with our Escape 17B, which is only 6'4" wide and fits exactly where the tow vehicle fits (as long as there is space to turn around!) and is also good for winter use.
    "Holy Cow!" someone exclaimed from the back of the stationwagon.

  22. #7672
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    There is absolutely no reason not to get the 3500. It's not overkill and it increases your flexibility to get a different RV in the future or add a boat or utility trailer to carry some extra toys and equipment.
    Similar to the general advice out there on the interwebs, so good to hear here as well. Might as well turn this into a full WWMD (and, yes, have done PLENTY of wanderthewest/expedition portal searching): I've ordered a loaded FWC Hawk. It's gonna be ~1500 pounds dry, so let's say 2k wet w/gear. Will never be more than my wife and I, and we're not heavy. Not pets, no other gas-powered toys to carry or tow. Will take the camper off for big stretches and use as a quasi DD - a few days a week of light commuting, driving to the mountains on weekends, dump runs, etc. Want the truck to be good on FS roads - some on the shittier side like the road to S Climb on Adams, but no wheeling nonsense - and not ride like a basketball on the highway unloaded, but I'm not dumb enough to expect a Cadillac either (current rig is FJ Cruiser).

    Yeah, I guess it's possible we'll hate the popup and want a much heavier hard-side or some shit, but I doubt it. We're not buying a boat. It's a remote possibility we'll want to tow snowmobiles at some point in the future I guess.

    A Ram 2500 Hemi (crew/6'5" box) has a ~3k payload. That looks like plenty to me, and will ride better w/o load, which will be most of the time. F250 gasser (supercab/same box) is like 2,500k payload, and has rear leafs, so I assume will ride the same as a 350/3500 so why bother? If the 2500 will have any real limitations (would need a burlier sway bar, but maybe that's it?) then yeah, you just nut up and get a 3500 or 350. If not, the only reason to throw down for the 1-ton seems like future proofing/mechanical margin of error, yeah? Once we get into 1-tons, I can get all the gas v. diesel commentary elsewhere -.

    So, no towing, no super crazy payloads (camper trips max) and plenty of non-laden driving. WWMD?

  23. #7673
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaStoke View Post
    The move is an externally vented propane, gas, or diesel furnace such as a Propex, Webasto, or Espar. Dry heat, compact package thermostat controlled, and sips fuel. Only downsides are involved are involved installs and $$$
    Ok, the prohibitives are both a problem for me now but good to know for the future. I guess the dickinson propane heater , that scout campers use, falls in that category as well.

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  24. #7674
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    Quote Originally Posted by frorider View Post
    I see no need at all for a dually Transit (or the shittier Sprinter) unless you’re using it as an actual cargo van rather than a camping van.

    Using modern build materials (aluminum etc) a fully converted 130” WB cargo van (heater/full kitchen/25 gal water tank/fridge/storage/bed) loaded up with food, water, ski gear, mtn bikes) has a weight of 6300-6900 lbs depending on 2WD vs 4WD, rescue gear, etc. Since the payload is rated around 4,000 lbs with the single rears, you’re using around 25-33% of the payload...and that’s a conservative calculation based on the actual shit you take on a trip (water etc) rather than the wishful thinking of the guys running campers on their yotas
    No way i'd run a dodge or a ford. Id be ok with a chev but theyre approaching yota price. I've beat and abused all those models of trucks at work and 100k's of miles, diesel and gas. Not puter simulated "work". Not much of any time in a nissan but if i was looking at cargo vans i'd definitely look there before ford or dodge. That shit will be worth 5k in 5 years

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  25. #7675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyski View Post
    Similar to the general advice out there on the interwebs, so good to hear here as well. Might as well turn this into a full WWMD (and, yes, have done PLENTY of wanderthewest/expedition portal searching): I've ordered a loaded FWC Hawk. It's gonna be ~1500 pounds dry, so let's say 2k wet w/gear. Will never be more than my wife and I, and we're not heavy. Not pets, no other gas-powered toys to carry or tow. Will take the camper off for big stretches and use as a quasi DD - a few days a week of light commuting, driving to the mountains on weekends, dump runs, etc. Want the truck to be good on FS roads - some on the shittier side like the road to S Climb on Adams, but no wheeling nonsense - and not ride like a basketball on the highway unloaded, but I'm not dumb enough to expect a Cadillac either (current rig is FJ Cruiser).

    Yeah, I guess it's possible we'll hate the popup and want a much heavier hard-side or some shit, but I doubt it. We're not buying a boat. It's a remote possibility we'll want to tow snowmobiles at some point in the future I guess.

    A Ram 2500 Hemi (crew/6'5" box) has a ~3k payload. That looks like plenty to me, and will ride better w/o load, which will be most of the time. F250 gasser (supercab/same box) is like 2,500k payload, and has rear leafs, so I assume will ride the same as a 350/3500 so why bother? If the 2500 will have any real limitations (would need a burlier sway bar, but maybe that's it?) then yeah, you just nut up and get a 3500 or 350. If not, the only reason to throw down for the 1-ton seems like future proofing/mechanical margin of error, yeah? Once we get into 1-tons, I can get all the gas v. diesel commentary elsewhere -.

    So, no towing, no super crazy payloads (camper trips max) and plenty of non-laden driving. WWMD?
    1) Never say never. You'll never carry anyone else, ever? Never develop any new hobbies that might weigh more than zero? You just said you might get snowmobiles...

    2) Ram vs Ford vs GM - fans of each, detractors of each. Pick your favorite. Personally I'd like a 1-ton SRW truck that looks like a Ram for styling, but with a Ford aluminum body and axles, a GM gas motor and transmission, and built by Toyota in Japan.

    3) Diesel vs gas - diesel will have lower payload comparably equipped vs gas, always, due to weight of engine. Fans and detractors of each, again.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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