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  1. #7626
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    Dec 2010
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    Or get a 6 inch lift kit for that dope brodozer look. You'll need new wheels and tires along with a fender underglow kit.

  2. #7627
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    967 tree 4
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    Maybe this belongs in tech talk but if I want to add an RV battery in the back of my truck can I charge it with my engine battery? Is it as simple as red to red and black to black and disconnect when not driving? What gauge wire is appropriate?

  3. #7628
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Toad View Post
    Maybe this belongs in tech talk but if I want to add an RV battery in the back of my truck can I charge it with my engine battery? Is it as simple as red to red and black to black and disconnect when not driving? What gauge wire is appropriate?
    Yes, you can add an RV battery and charge it from the alternator. You will want a self connecting/ disconnecting solenoid, the largest gauge and shortest run of wire possible, and pay attention to venting lead acid batteries if storing in enclosed space.

    Somewhere long ago in this thread I posted a link to how I wired my camper into my truck. I used a constant duty golf cart solenoid - search for those words in this thread.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  4. #7629
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    in the trench
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    Quote Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher View Post
    Nice unicorn dude

    Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
    Thanks man!
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    i mean, ideally the truck fits camper. but if ya gotta stick with the tundra, there are a few options for aftermarket leaf packs. old man emu is an aussie brand on the heavy side.

    is that a 5.5ft bed?
    Ok cool. The truck rear sits well when i had my cap on and diy bed, a touch higher than the front. I was hoping to not get a full new leaf pack and just add one leaf
    Box is a 6.5 ft. 8' camper
    Quote Originally Posted by crashidy View Post
    With that lean i would go pack brake airbags. You will notice every 5psi..i put a camper on my f250 this year and did airbags.. You won't regret it. Or do both

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
    Hmmm ok thanks. Thats good to know, especially about the noticeable 5psi. Noted
    Quote Originally Posted by simple View Post
    Or get a 6 inch lift kit for that dope brodozer look. You'll need new wheels and tires along with a fender underglow kit.
    Gots to get it jacked full drag race stance. Then the xl hitch nutz don't get too low

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  5. #7630
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Shuswap Highlands
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    Very nice Grinch!

    For me, the decision between leafpack and airbags depends on how often you run loaded. If running with the weight more often than not I would go with leafpack. If your rig goes unloaded most of the time, then airbags. I put an extra leaf in my '03 tacoma and it sits level with a 600lbs sled in the back all winter, but running empty during the summer I almost lose a filling or two on rough roads. I keep contemplating airbags for the chevy 1/2tonne pulling the trailer and summer toys/fish coolers as I am running at max axle and GVWR for the truck. And this is with a WD hitch evening out the load. But those heavy haul outings are only about 1/3 of the truck's use and the truck runs great at half load otherwise. I think the option of stiffening the rear suspension with the airbags to take out some of the rear bounce, and then running at min airbag pressure the rest of the time would be a nice option for that application. More maintenance with the airbags though.
    Or I should just get a proper 1tonne and be done with it.

  6. #7631
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    Sep 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by BCMtnHound View Post
    Very nice Grinch!

    For me, the decision between leafpack and airbags depends on how often you run loaded. If running with the weight more often than not I would go with leafpack. If your rig goes unloaded most of the time, then airbags. I put an extra leaf in my '03 tacoma and it sits level with a 600lbs sled in the back all winter, but running empty during the summer I almost lose a filling or two on rough roads. I keep contemplating airbags for the chevy 1/2tonne pulling the trailer and summer toys/fish coolers as I am running at max axle and GVWR for the truck. And this is with a WD hitch evening out the load. But those heavy haul outings are only about 1/3 of the truck's use and the truck runs great at half load otherwise. I think the option of stiffening the rear suspension with the airbags to take out some of the rear bounce, and then running at min airbag pressure the rest of the time would be a nice option for that application. More maintenance with the airbags though.
    Or I should just get a proper 1tonne and be done with it.
    Thanks. Thats my fear, that it will be too rough unloaded. Im really not sure how much itll be loaded. I may use it for work,getting a few calls for the twinning projects, or bike trips but things are shutting down now and i may end up confined to the bubble. A friend with a ford ranger and an import model northernlite says he was told to go rubber blocks instead of airbags. They told him the air bags can fail. The rubber blocks and air bags look relatively ez to install. Rubber blocks are $250 and airbags are $600. How much maintenance are you hearing with the air bags?

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  7. #7632
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    277
    If you can afford them airbags are the way to go. Our RV has them and they make a huge difference to handling. The only maintenance is to check them once or twice a year for air pressure. No onboard compressor required.

  8. #7633
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Was UT, AK, now MT
    Posts
    13,499
    We run airbags on our Dodge 2500 with 2,300lb camper. Just lower PSI when camper is off and they run fine. Absolutely priceless addition to any truck camper rig.

  9. #7634
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Access to Granlibakken
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    11,184
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Toad View Post
    Maybe this belongs in tech talk but if I want to add an RV battery in the back of my truck can I charge it with my engine battery? Is it as simple as red to red and black to black and disconnect when not driving? What gauge wire is appropriate?
    I have a dc dc solenoid designed for this application that I can give you. Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #7635
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    Sep 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by grinch View Post
    Thanks. Thats my fear, that it will be too rough unloaded. Im really not sure how much itll be loaded. I may use it for work,getting a few calls for the twinning projects, or bike trips but things are shutting down now and i may end up confined to the bubble. A friend with a ford ranger and an import model northernlite says he was told to go rubber blocks instead of airbags. They told him the air bags can fail. The rubber blocks and air bags look relatively ez to install. Rubber blocks are $250 and airbags are $600. How much maintenance are you hearing with the air bags?

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
    From my conversations with my mechanic, airbag failure is often a 2-stage process. They are supposed to always have a min pressure (10lb or so) but sometimes temp changes or valve seepage causes a drop that if left unchecked results in larger failure when the seals catastrophically separate. So keeping an eye on manual airbags pressure is important. Automatic ones have the usual electronic or compressor considerations. I haven't heard of failure during actual heavy use being an issue.

  11. #7636
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW -> MSO
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    Yo grinch, apologies for the asshole tone last night... had a couple drinks.

    The thing that sketches me out about your setup is that the camper is built to sit in an 8ft box. So in your 6ft box the camper's CG is behind the rear axle, further adding to the wheelie effect. Might be fine with some extra beef back there, but watch the bed flex besides the obvious handling changes.

    My NL8.5 is built for a 6ft bed and I'm stoked to pair it with a Tundra, but I've been through a few suspension setups before settling on the current.

    First tried Timbrens. They accentuate bed flex, kinda acting like a fulcrum, and rattle the camper to a concerning degree. But unloaded handling is unaffected.

    TRD sway bar was a great addition and stayed thru the rest of the tries.

    Then did OME dakars with their add-a-leaf and nitro shocks. Too stiff.

    Took out the addl leaf and now run the dakars with Bilstein remote res shocks and Firestone airbags, which I only really use for lateral leveling. Good shocks are gold.

    We've been through all this before. It handles the weight well now but it's still a big load for a little truck. I service brakes every spring. Unloaded is stiff but 500lbs of camping gear or stone or dirt makes it perfect. Got other rigs for non truck driving.

    Tldr; put it on a diesel

    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #7637
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
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    8,715
    Yeah, Grinch. Broken record time but don't disrespect the radness of that camper with the wrong truck. Right now you are that guy, don't be that guy. Trade the Tundra for a F250 with a 6.2 or a big block Chevy and be done with it. It will save you money in the long run.

  13. #7638
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    What's the wet weight on those Northern Lite campers? Quick google search shows this 2006 brochure, which (p. 15) shows a dry weight for the 8'6" ones at 1750#, and the 8'4" ones at 1280# -- quite a difference for 2". And that's dry weight (no propane, batteries, water -- and also no other food, gear, etc).
    https://northern-lite.com/wp-content...-lite-bro1.pdf

    I considered a Tundra w/ 8' bed for a replacement camper truck, but my popup camper has a stickered (aka supposedly accurate) wet weight of about 1800#. Which is at or over Tundra payload, before loading any people, gear, bikes, food/drinks, etc.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  14. #7639
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
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    1,990
    I’m gently hunting a Bigfoot or northern lite for my recent purchase of a 3/4 ton diesel, if there’s one in the collective near central WA....


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Gravity always wins...

  15. #7640
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    PNW -> MSO
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    Mfgr plate on mine says 660kg/1400lbs dry.

    I've weighed it at 1900lbs wet.

  16. #7641
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    in the trench
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    Thanks everyone. Some decisions to make. I figured the 8'4" was an 8'4" and the COG would be the same. It is behind the axle. Doesnt really lift the front as much as it just sags the rear. Been driving 4 hrs now on the highway. It handles pretty good. Im making sure to avoid potholes as much as possible. That could be bad. Spring is pothole season and theres still frost heaves too. I have been considering something with an 8' box but i think i just need some time in it to decide. It feels alright so far and air bags would make it feel great i think , or atleast thats where im at after a few hours of city and highway driving. Pulls the coquihalla no problem. Dry weight new was 1280lbs. My truck new was 1300 lb payload. We'll see. Im not a big fan of NA automakers in general.
    Didn't notice any 'tude Norse, probably because you echoed my concerns. Thanks for the input. You're definitely a barometer on this pairing.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

  17. #7642
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    1,127

    Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

    Quote Originally Posted by Trackhead View Post
    We run airbags on our Dodge 2500 with 2,300lb camper. Just lower PSI when camper is off and they run fine. Absolutely priceless addition to any truck camper rig.
    How’s the sway? Lots of scare stories about the combo of camper and coils on those. Been ok? About to pull the trigger on a 3500 for this reason alone: wouldn’t need airbags/new sway bar, etc., but worry it’s overkill
    Last edited by Andyski; 04-24-2021 at 10:19 PM.

  18. #7643
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    8,715
    Im not a big fan of NA automakers in general.
    A lot of people say this for some reason. Then they try to use their Tundra like a 3/4 ton and it falls apart. This conversation is as old as TGR, but when you need a heavy duty truck, get a heavy duty truck. Just because you think it "feels fine" doesn't have much to do with it. You'll ignore the advise, because that's what Team Toyota does, and you'll be rolling around in the mountains overweight with a sketchy rig. Sweet.

  19. #7644
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    16,804
    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    A lot of people say this for some reason. Then they try to use their Tundra like a 3/4 ton and it falls apart. This conversation is as old as TGR, but when you need a heavy duty truck, get a heavy duty truck. Just because you think it "feels fine" doesn't have much to do with it. You'll ignore the advise, because that's what Team Toyota does, and you'll be rolling around in the mountains overweight with a sketchy rig. Sweet.
    I have already seen several Tundras and F150s this spring doing the "death lean" with a 2000# camper in the bed. On the highway. Doing 80mph.

    Shit is scary.

  20. #7645
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Shuswap Highlands
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    I have already seen several Tundras and F150s this spring doing the "death lean" with a 2000# camper in the bed. On the highway. Doing 80mph.

    Shit is scary.
    Yup. Doesn't matter who builds the 1/2ton, none of them hold up to 3/4ton abuse. I've got a couple guys here that swear their truck can hold their camper as it's within the GVWR, but ignore the GARW. Or worse, they think that airbags or spring/coil upgrades will solve their issues, ignoring dif/drivetrain, brakes and wheel/hub tolerances. Wear and tear is one thing, handling and braking at speeds >90kph is another.

  21. #7646
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Posts
    8,715
    Team Toyota doesn't want to hear that Safety Bob shit...because Tundra.

  22. #7647
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    16,804
    I've got the Tundra "Rock Warrior" which actually has a little sticker next to the main sticker in the door frame explaining that they payload is actually reduced by 8 pounds from the normal TRD lol. I guess the aux transmission cooler is 8 pounds?

    Since I am single and a shorter dude to begin with ideally I get a camper that is actually kind of undersized for my truck.

    I majorly fucked up not buying Jdubyu's Sunlight back in March. If the current owner wants to flip for an extra $500 I am still game. Seriously. Just couldn't hack it right at the moment.

  23. #7648
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    Sep 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Foggy_Goggles View Post
    Team Toyota doesn't want to hear that Safety Bob shit...because Tundra.
    LOL, in their (my?) defence, I've used my '03 tacoma as a heavy half as long as I've had it, and it is still running strong (but I did stiffen up the rear springpack at 130000km) The small trucks do carry their weight well. Tundra guys aren't to be outdone by their little brother perhaps.

  24. #7649
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
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    1,725
    Quote Originally Posted by Andyski View Post
    How’s the sway? Lots of scare stories about the combo of camper and coils on those. Been ok? About to pull the trigger on a 3500 for this reason alone: wouldn’t need airbags/new sway bar, etc., but worry it’s overkill
    There is absolutely no reason not to get the 3500. It's not overkill and it increases your flexibility to get a different RV in the future or add a boat or utility trailer to carry some extra toys and equipment.

  25. #7650
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    There is absolutely no reason not to get the 3500. It's not overkill and it increases your flexibility to get a different RV in the future or add a boat or utility trailer to carry some extra toys and equipment.
    Agreed, with the possible exception of whether you live in a state that charges considerably higher registration fees once the truck hits heavy enough GVWR. Some states do. I live in NV, which doesn't.

    The "overkill is just about right" approach to truck size is why I am about to order a SRW F350 for a new camper hauler truck, instead of a F250. Slightly higher payload over the F250, and higher GVWR/ GCWR, which is never a bad thing. It'll have approx 4000# payload capacity, a nice step up from my old GMC Sierra 2500 with approx 3000# payload.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

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