Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Are there somewhat simple pre-wired large capacity battery systems? Like basically an RV setup that is permanent that I can relatively easily wire into my truck alternator and wire in solar with a DC out? Something already self contained in a box with a controller?

The "jackery" type setup I have now will only work if I can plug the pack into a wall outlet in the lodge or something while skiing if I plan more than a couple nights with the diesel heater going. I plan to install some solar on the GFC roof, but that's basically useless if its dumping....essentially when I plan to be parked at a ski area anyway.

I realize this is probably a super RV noob type question.

[Verde]

More parking lot stoke from a few days ago.

It felt like cheating with the electric hook-up.

[Falcon3]

Are there somewhat simple pre-wired large capacity battery systems? Like basically an RV setup that is permanent that I can relatively easily wire into my truck alternator and wire in solar with a DC out? Something already self contained in a box with a controller?

The "jackery" type setup I have now will only work if I can plug the pack into a wall outlet in the lodge or something while skiing if I plan more than a couple nights with the diesel heater going. I plan to install some solar on the GFC roof, but that's basically useless if its dumping....essentially when I plan to be parked at a ski area anyway.

I realize this is probably a super RV noob type question.

A DC-DC charger is the best route to go here, especially if you’re adding solar to it and want it as easy as possible, and it really only needs a couple things:

CTEK D250SA- this is the DC-DC charger and also has an integrated solar charger good for about 200watts of 12v panels- super easy to wire up.

A thick (4-6aw) positive cable with 100amp fuses on both ends. This will run from the truck battery to the DC-DC charger.

A thick ground cable from House battery to truck frame (no fuses necessary)

A house battery- easy to find a 100amp-hour AGM for under $200. Figure you can use about 50% of this capacity, it’s still vastly more amperage than a portable Jackery.

A couple odd pieces of cable to connect between the charger and your house battery and you’re in business. That’s really it.

The solar/alternator will keep the house battery charged up. You can charge your Jackery off the house battery.

[Huskier]

Are there somewhat simple pre-wired large capacity battery systems? Like basically an RV setup that is permanent that I can relatively easily wire into my truck alternator and wire in solar with a DC out? Something already self contained in a box with a controller?

The "jackery" type setup I have now will only work if I can plug the pack into a wall outlet in the lodge or something while skiing if I plan more than a couple nights with the diesel heater going. I plan to install some solar on the GFC roof, but that's basically useless if its dumping....essentially when I plan to be parked at a ski area anyway.

I realize this is probably a super RV noob type question.

Are you talking about just a box with a 12V fuse block on the side? Why not just build your own? It's pretty easy. Need a dc-dc charger, a main bus, a couple marine fuses and a fuse panel. And a battery, obv. Mine took a weekend to make and I'm no genius. Everything came from Amazon or home depot. Adding solar needlessly complicates things IME, given that even 20 mins of driving will tank up your battery.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I'm sure it's pretty simple. I can build just about anything, but vehicle related wiring makes my brain hurt.

Running the truck for only 20 mins will charge up a large house battery? If true the solar does seem totally unnecessary.

Are there simple online diagrams for wiring those parts Falcon3?

[DanoT]

I have a DC to DC smart battery charger, It takes power from the alternator and solar panel either separately or together and acts as solar charge controller.

Changing a propane furnace fan to a lower power might cause overheating in the burner as generally furnaces that have low power fans also put out less BTUs. Talk to a reputable RV dealer.

I use a 2200watt Honda gen to power a battery charger. If I leave the propane furnace on and the batteries are low, then it takes a really long time to charge the camper batteries, so I turn the furnace off and have the Honda generator power a smart charger and a 1000watt electric space heater...nice dry heat for drying stuff out. I run the furnace for the dog when I am out skiing and when I first get back to the camper or if the batteries have a near full charge, as in milder weather I can go a couple of days between battery charging.

[Falcon3]

I'm sure it's pretty simple. I can build just about anything, but vehicle related wiring makes my brain hurt.

Running the truck for only 20 mins will charge up a large house battery? If true the solar does seem totally unnecessary.

Are there simple online diagrams for wiring those parts Falcon3?

How long it takes to charge is dependent on the amperage output of your charger and the battery it’s attached to. The CTEK D250SA is a 20-amp charger. So if you used a 100ah AGM you’d get about 50ah of useable capacity. Which would take ~2.5 hours to charge up if it was all the way down there.

In reality, it’s not that hard to start it up and run for 20-30 mins to top off. The house battery will very likely get fully charged on the way to/from your trip as long as it’s more than like an hour drive.

Here’s a basic wiring diagram for the CTEK. I’d add a ground from house battery to the truck frame but otherwise this is it. I’d be happy to help you troubleshoot it sometime, I’m planning on heading to Bozeman in early Feb. but it’s really not rocket surgery. You did a great job on the heater.

If you wanted to add solar to this setup it’s literally one wire to attach to the controller and one to a ground.



Here’s a pic of my battery box in the van, disregard the rats nest of wire on the left side that’s just a prewired switch.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

How long it takes to charge is dependent on the amperage output of your charger and the battery it’s attached to. The CTEK D250SA is a 20-amp charger. So if you used a 100ah AGM you’d get about 50ah of useable capacity. Which would take ~2.5 hours to charge up if it was all the way down there.

In reality, it’s not that hard to start it up and run for 20-30 mins to top off. The house battery will very likely get fully charged on the way to/from your trip as long as it’s more than like an hour drive.

Here’s a basic wiring diagram for the CTEK. I’d add a ground from house battery to the truck frame but otherwise this is it. I’d be happy to help you troubleshoot it sometime, I’m planning on heading to Bozeman in early Feb. but it’s really not rocket surgery. You did a great job on the heater.

If you wanted to add solar to this setup it’s literally one wire to attach to the controller and one to a ground.



Here’s a pic of my battery box in the van, disregard the rats nest of wire on the left side that’s just a prewired switch.

Awesome, thanks!!

[BFD]

thanks for that diagram. This is where I am at in my project. So the CTEK functions as an MPPT solar controller and a battery to battery ? I do not have a battery to battery on my boat. Never had an issue. Perhaps because My boat is running longer and alternator is charging longer. Was wondering why I need one.

[Micol]

These are my systems for about 150 cubic feet of living space rotating the following based on poached or allowed camping:

Cold Weather
1) Poach or Non for early morn: inside cab stock truck heater (turn vehicle on) ~ also charges jackeries* ~ mornings like 6am-8am and warming boots, again at end of day to charge jackeries
2)Poach:jackery 1000 run 90watt heater 10 hours +( 2) -35 deg bags on 8" memory foam mattress*
3)Non Poached: 1000 watt mini gas generator run 200 watt elec heat and charge jackeries
4)Non Poached: diesel heater with fan run off jackery 1000 (no 90watt need obviously)
*jackery 150w solar to charge when, bluebird, no accumulating snow or crooks

Systems for warm weather
1)Poach: small usb fan run from Jackery (pulls very very little power (crack windows))
2)Poach: C Cell battery Fan (crack windows)
3)crack windows

Storage
under memory foam bed
2 thule roof boxes
hard backflip bed cover
trailer shelf when no sled


Install custom cut insulation inserts all windows (will allow for circulation from cracked windows)
All operated out of non descript under radar crew cab tinted 4x4 ,.....unless i have the sled in bed oh and the 2 thules on the roof....

[Dromond]

These are my systems for about 150 cubic feet of living space rotating the following based on poached or allowed camping:

Cold Weather
1) Poach or Non for early morn: inside cab stock truck heater (turn vehicle on) ~ also charges jackeries* ~ mornings like 6am-8am and warming boots, again at end of day to charge jackeries
2)Poach:jackery 1000 run 90watt heater 10 hours +( 2) -35 deg bags on 8" memory foam mattress*
3)Non Poached: 1000 watt mini gas generator run 200 watt elec heat and charge jackeries
4)Non Poached: diesel heater with fan run off jackery 1000 (no 90watt need obviously)
*jackery 150w solar to charge when, bluebird, no accumulating snow or crooks

Systems for warm weather
1)Poach: small usb fan run from Jackery (pulls very very little power (crack windows))
2)Poach: C Cell battery Fan (crack windows)
3)crack windows

Storage
under memory foam bed
2 thule roof boxes
hard backflip bed cover
trailer shelf when no sled


Install custom cut insulation inserts all windows (will allow for circulation from cracked windows)
All operated out of non descript under radar crew cab tinted 4x4 ,.....unless i have the sled in bed oh and the 2 thules on the roof....

How long does it take to fully charge your batteries from the truck and what sort of charging system do you have? I’m impressed that you can run even the 90 watt heater for that long.

[apex dave]

I have a DC to DC smart battery charger, It takes power from the alternator and solar panel either separately or together and acts as solar charge controller. Changing a propane furnace fan to a lower power might cause overheating in the burner as generally furnaces that have low power fans also put out less BTUs. Talk to a reputable RV dealer.

I use a 2200watt Honda gen to power a battery charger. If I leave the propane furnace on and the batteries are low, then it takes a really long time to charge the camper batteries, so I turn the furnace off and have the Honda generator power a smart charger and a 1000watt electric space heater...nice dry heat for drying stuff out. I run the furnace for the dog when I am out skiing and when I first get back to the camper or if the batteries have a near full charge, as in milder weather I can go a couple of days between battery charging.

DanoT has it right. Our RV furnace (33,000 BTU) draws 7 amps so battery charging is key. Any high quality four stage charger will do the job. You can use a portable unit or we have a built in Progressive Dynamics Intellipower unit with Charge Wizard that replaces the converter. Since we have simple lead acid batteries (2x6 volts,220 amp hours) we charge at a safe 30 amps. 4 or 5 gen hours perks the batteries back up nicely. If we had AGM batteries I believe we could charge at a higher rate faster,
.

[Trackhead]

First proper ski trip with the camper. The Lance did a great job. The only issue I had was the battery powering the heater fan, which seemingly ran all the time to keep up with the record low temps. I was able to mitigate it by running the truck in the morning and evening to recharge the battery. Still, it was tough to keep the batteries with enough charge to run the fans.

I think the next step is to figure out a way to haul a gas tank on the ladder to run my Honda generator. I suspect that will be a cheaper (and quieter) solution than running the Diesel engine in the truck to keep the house batteries topped off.


ETA parking lot stoke

Attachment 399341

Nice rig. If it were me, I'd find space to install a 5k diesel heater. Won't take up more than a shoe box size. It will keep that rig plenty warm running at 2.5k and only pull about 2.5-3.0 amps while doing so versus your propane furnace which I believe pulls in excess of 7 amps with.

[Trackhead]

Pro tip: heavy duty black trash bags to tape over the lights that are permanently on.

Bag of weed worked fine.

[Micol]

How long does it take to fully charge your batteries from the truck and what sort of charging system do you have? I’m impressed that you can run even the 90 watt heater for that long.

so if i am driving all day i can charge a jackery 1000 through dc cig ltr which takes at least 12 hours for full charge or faster through 110v inverter. the 90watt is the ticket but don’t expect to be basking in miami warmth. it is good for keeping your face from being frozen if u don’t hide completely in the sleeping bags…

[Bobcat Sig]

Nice rig. If it were me, I'd find space to install a 5k diesel heater. Won't take up more than a shoe box size. It will keep that rig plenty warm running at 2.5k and only pull about 2.5-3.0 amps while doing so versus your propane furnace which I believe pulls in excess of 7 amps with.

A friend suggested that. And while it's intriguing, it's another fuel source, unless I plumb into the vehicle tank, which is a whole thing. And I would need to fuck with the wiring and existing furnace, including the propane lines. It seems like an awful lot of surgery when I might be able to find and replace a lower amp fan.

[Dromond]

so if i am driving all day i can charge a jackery 1000 through dc cig ltr which takes at least 12 hours for full charge or faster through 110v inverter. the 90watt is the ticket but don’t expect to be basking in miami warmth. it is good for keeping your face from being frozen if u don’t hide completely in the sleeping bags…

Ok that’s sort of what I expected - a fairly long charge time. It works if you happen to be moving a lot. I assume that’s where the generator comes in: a way to get safe electric heat when you are parked in one spot for a while…

[Trackhead]

A friend suggested that. And while it's intriguing, it's another fuel source, unless I plumb into the vehicle tank, which is a whole thing. And I would need to fuck with the wiring and existing furnace, including the propane lines. It seems like an awful lot of surgery when I might be able to find and replace a lower amp fan.

Good point. Or, just tear into that shit and throw out all the propane bits right in the trash and start over with diesel I did that with my truck camper, but it's a 1993, not exactly what you've got. Agreed on two fuel sources. I have propane stove/on demand water heater in my camper, then diesel heat. But the heater burns so little fuel it's literally fill the tank and forget about it.

[Bobcat Sig]

Good point. Or, just tear into that shit and throw out all the propane bits right in the trash and start over with diesel I did that with my truck camper, but it's a 1993, not exactly what you've got. Agreed on two fuel sources. I have propane stove/on demand water heater in my camper, then diesel heat. But the heater burns so little fuel it's literally fill the tank and forget about it.

It's tempting, if a bit fiddly to figure out wiring, plumbing, and tank location. My camper also has on-demand hot water, three burner stove, and oven, so propane would need to remain.

I think I may look into an onboard generator. My unit is pre-wired for one and would run off propane. That could help significantly. Alternatively, the storage compartment in the beavertail of the camper can fit my Honda EU2200i generator. I could then bolt a rotopax fuel canister to the ladder for charging and such.

[Trackhead]

Too bad there isn't on-demand generator start function that would start genset if voltage dropped below 12.1 or so.....

I rebuilt my camper to also keep the batteries inside, warmer temps, less voltage drop.

[altasnob]

Why don't you use your car's alternator and a dc to dc charger as an in house generator to charge your camper battery to power your propane and/or diesel heater. I believe alternator/dc to dc charger works better driving around versus idling but can be used to charge idling in a pinch as well. Also, even in the PNW winter you will get something from a roof top solar panel, so long as you clear snow from it (I was getting 1 amp an hour yesterday from 175 watt panel on an overcast/snowing day at Snoqualmie). Not enough to power the furnace alone but every bit helps. Also, upgrade your battery capacity so you can get through a few days.

Also, my 12,000 BTU Attwood propane furnace uses 3.4 amps an hour to run the furnace fan. 7 amps an hour seems like a lot but your camper is bigger than mine.

[Micol]

Ok that’s sort of what I expected - a fairly long charge time. It works if you happen to be moving a lot. I assume that’s where the generator comes in: a way to get safe electric heat when you are parked in one spot for a while…

yes, I’m usually only in a place that I need to poach and run the small set up off the jackery when im at a ski area . they are usually tracked out in a day so I’m gonna leave and be on the road to somewhere else giving me time to charge off car. off grid always gonna go gas or diesel set up

[DanoT]

Too bad there isn't on-demand generator start function that would start genset if voltage dropped below 12.1 or so.....

I rebuilt my camper to also keep the batteries inside, warmer temps, less voltage drop.

Generator auto start function for low voltage batteries does exist. Winnebago EKKO has it, along with a $150k+ price tag. Other Rvs have this feature as well.

[Hopeless Sinner]

It's tempting, if a bit fiddly to figure out wiring, plumbing, and tank location. My camper also has on-demand hot water, three burner stove, and oven, so propane would need to remain.

I think I may look into an onboard generator. My unit is pre-wired for one and would run off propane. That could help significantly. Alternatively, the storage compartment in the beavertail of the camper can fit my Honda EU2200i generator. I could then bolt a rotopax fuel canister to the ladder for charging and such.

Convert the H2200 to propane since you're already committed to that anyway. Hutch Mountain sells the dual or tri-fuel conversion kit.

[Hopeless Sinner]

Generator auto start function for low voltage batteries does exist. Winnebago EKKO has it, along with a $150k+ price tag. Other Rvs have this feature as well.

I was in one of those recently and it was a pretty cool set-up all around. Tons of heated storage, etc. Didn't like the tiny dual wheels though.