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  1. #6826
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    8,246
    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Taking the new camper van for a maiden voyage tomorrow. Tires are not the pressure I'm used to dealing with, ha. With T/A K02s the fronts are 55 psi and the rears are beyond what my gauge goes to, which is 60psi. My van is similar to a 4x4 sportsmobile, but not. I dunno what it weighs but the GVWR is 9500 pounds.

    High pressure seems great for highway traveling, but WTF pressure do I put these on for snow? Do I really go over 60psi for highway driving? What pressure roughly for driving down washboards? Off-road crawling? I'm used to reducing pressure in previous vehicles for all these instances but I'm guessing what I think is normal changes for heavy vehicles.
    Weigh your vehicle. Easy to do at a truck stop

  2. #6827
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    invermere
    Posts
    749
    Air pressure ratings are for maximum weight. Not running at max drop the psi, I run around 40- 50psi offroad and 60psi hiway on my e250.

    I Carry a small air compressor in the van. next year will be easier, going to add an onboard compressor with rear air bags and plumb an extra fitting for tools.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  3. #6828
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    20 steps from the hot tub
    Posts
    3,714
    Mute, what does it say for tire pressure on the vehicle? Isnít it listed on that RV certification sticker if itís a factory build?

    If a home build then whatís the pressure listed on the driver side door sill?

    I ran the recommended 36 psi on my 89 Vandura 2500 (and kept it within its load) and it rode well, had as good traction as you could expect on snow from rear-wheel drive and no tire problems.

    Tire pressure marked on the tire sidewall only relates to the max pressure it can handle and of course has nothing to do with the recommended pressure for a certain vehicle.

    Max pressure listed on the tires on my Celica is 60 psi. Iíve had retards at quick lube places pump them up to that even though the pressure should be 29 psi.

  4. #6829
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    8,246
    I meant to add that the chalk test can be useful, since many of us are running tire and rim sizes different than stock & therefore door sticker #s aren’t useful.

  5. #6830
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    CO/UT
    Posts
    2,498
    You can find an inflation chart from your tire manufacturer online as well. Weigh your rig and then this will give you an idea of how much PSI you need to support your weight.

  6. #6831
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Mosier, OR
    Posts
    163
    https://classifieds.gorge.net/?id=aoad71ae

    For Portland and other PNW area mags, this seems like a pretty good deal.

  7. #6832
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    293
    Quote Originally Posted by powdrhound View Post
    BattleBorn batteries has just released their newest version of their 100 amp lithium battery. This one includes an internal heater, so that they can be charged while the temperature outside drops below 27 degrees. An external heat pad is no longer required.

    I ordered mine last night.
    And I will be adding a lock to the battery box door.
    Solar panels are being installed today.

    https://battlebornbatteries.com/prod...-battery-kits/

    This is a really nice upgrade.

    I currently do not run heating pads under the batteries, but it is something Iíve considered adding. Mine are inside the van so I can use the diesel heater to bring the temp up the acceptable charging level. When we are using the van in winter , the heater runs 24/7. Itís easier to keep the van around 50 for a whole weekend rather than go on/off

    Youíll like the battleborns. Itís been a good product for me

  8. #6833
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    8,246
    So this summer I spent some time coming up with a good all round solution to lithium battery temp control (two Battleborns). Rather than installing the DC adhesive heater wraps from dragonfly/battleborn, I spent $90 on a very nicely made AC battery wrap from RHS. https://www.roofheatingsystems.com/residential/ You can get custom lengths, and widths in 6” increments. I got one long enough to wrap around all 6 exposed sides of the adjacent batteries. I built a corrugated plastic box around the batteries for protection, and to keep the heat in. It’s connected to a thermostat ac plug https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . My diesel air heater has ducting that runs under the battery, so they heat up quickly when we’re living in the van.

    Anyway my logic is that when I’m on a van trip the batteries are generally warm (see above); the issue is the cold ass nights in Tahoe parked at home. Having a simple wrap that plugs into an extension cord to my house not only is good for battery health long term, but also means when the sun hits the panels or I drive 30 mins to kwood, the batteries are warm enough to accept charge.

  9. #6834
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    United States of Aburdistan
    Posts
    6,923
    Thanks guys. I also asked a real-life friend, who is used to bigger trucks (he owns a vintage semi for one example) and he recommended 40-50psi. I thought I was stuck at high PSI due to weight but I'm not, thank god. Previous owner towed a burly trailer so I'm guessing that's why the rears were at 60+. frorider, I was thinking of weighing it too on my inaugural road trip this weekend so I'll do that this week. And I'm definitely getting an on-board compressor for rough roads, and higher PSI for highway driving with the thirsty V10. First I gotta drive it an experiment with different loads and PSI and get to know how it all feels.

  10. #6835
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    17,319
    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Thanks guys. I also asked a real-life friend, who is used to bigger trucks (he owns a vintage semi for one example) and he recommended 40-50psi. I thought I was stuck at high PSI due to weight but I'm not, thank god. Previous owner towed a burly trailer so I'm guessing that's why the rears were at 60+. frorider, I was thinking of weighing it too on my inaugural road trip this weekend so I'll do that this week. And I'm definitely getting an on-board compressor for rough roads, and higher PSI for highway driving with the thirsty V10. First I gotta drive it an experiment with different loads and PSI and get to know how it all feels.
    It really depends on what the vehicle weighs.

    On my 3/4 ton truck, with load range E tires: in summer with a camper in it, I have the front tires at 72 psi, rear at 80 psi (max). On that same truck unloaded, without carrying any real load in the bed, I have the front at 60 psi, rear at 50. It weighs 6000# empty. Tread wear seems even, and it doesn't feel squirmy. I tried it with lower pressure empty (50 front, 40 rear), and it felt squirmy on road, without riding any smoother.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  11. #6836
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    United States of Aburdistan
    Posts
    6,923
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    It really depends on what the vehicle weighs.

    On my 3/4 ton truck, with load range E tires: in summer with a camper in it, I have the front tires at 72 psi, rear at 80 psi (max). On that same truck unloaded, without carrying any real load in the bed, I have the front at 60 psi, rear at 50. It weighs 6000# empty. Tread wear seems even, and it doesn't feel squirmy. I tried it with lower pressure empty (50 front, 40 rear), and it felt squirmy on road, without riding any smoother.
    Thanks, I'm clear on that now. I'm going to weigh it, experiment to find what feels good on snow, washboard, rock crawling, highway driving, but avoid premature wear with over/under PSIs, etc. when fully loaded or dry.

  12. #6837
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    17,319
    Definitely try some different pressures and see what works best.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  13. #6838
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    5,740
    find the load tables for the exact tire you're running, if you can

    if not available, judge the bulge and/or chalk line test
    life ain't guaranteed, love your people while you can

  14. #6839
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    2,745
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    judge the bulge
    QFT

  15. #6840
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    United States of Aburdistan
    Posts
    6,923
    Couple newb heating questions: I have a propane heater that works great but cycled on constantly as it was below 30 degrees that night, pop-top was up, and it woke me up nearly every time. It wasn't super loud but I'm a light sleeper. Van is from 1999 so I'm guessing I have better options these days? my thoughts were:

    1) Insulate the box a bit to deaden the sound. Definitely won't solve the problem but would help a bit.
    2) see if there is a thermostat that I can program to run maybe every 1-2 hours instead cycling on/off every 10 minutes. Does something like this exist for #vanlife?
    3) Get a quieter blower motor. Maybe one with different settings? Even if it reduces efficiency, a slow low setting would be better than what I have.
    4) Take lotsa drugs to pass out each night and keep van as-is.
    5) All the above

  16. #6841
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Tahoe
    Posts
    890
    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Thanks, I'm clear on that now. I'm going to weigh it, experiment to find what feels good on snow, washboard, rock crawling, highway driving, but avoid premature wear with over/under PSIs, etc. when fully loaded or dry.
    If you really want to nerd out (and be accurate) weigh each axle then adjust accordingly. For example, my axle weights dictate I run fronts @ 50psi and rears @ 90psi (max). While the fronts have more useable range, because of the rear axle weight bad things can happen if I run the rears significantly below the 90psi (tire failure and blowout at highway speeds)

  17. #6842
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    8,924
    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    Couple newb heating questions: I have a propane heater that works great but cycled on constantly as it was below 30 degrees that night, pop-top was up, and it woke me up nearly every time. It wasn't super loud but I'm a light sleeper. Van is from 1999 so I'm guessing I have better options these days? my thoughts were:

    1) Insulate the box a bit to deaden the sound. Definitely won't solve the problem but would help a bit.
    2) see if there is a thermostat that I can program to run maybe every 1-2 hours instead cycling on/off every 10 minutes. Does something like this exist for #vanlife?
    3) Get a quieter blower motor. Maybe one with different settings? Even if it reduces efficiency, a slow low setting would be better than what I have.
    4) Take lotsa drugs to pass out each night and keep van as-is.
    5) All the above
    Probably a similar situation to us. When we first started vanning, had similar issues. Now we have a heavy down comforter and turn the heater off while we sleep. I reach out of bed in the morning and kick the heater on. A couple minutes later, I'll fire up our heater buddy (we only bring this if we know it is going to be teens or less) and kick that on while I heat up coffee. Mrs. C gets up when she feel like it's okay to get ready for the day. The small space heats up fast but we're in a high top.

  18. #6843
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    United States of Aburdistan
    Posts
    6,923
    AH, I forgot about the buddy. That's a solid option that is cheap. No reconfiguring, just throw it in the van when needed.

  19. #6844
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    invermere
    Posts
    749
    Wood stove for silent dry heat.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  20. #6845
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Posts
    1
    The more I heat my van on very cold nights, the more frost I get on the windows and exposed metal.

    To minimize this, hang, button or velcro a curtain to sequester your breathing to the very back of the van with some form of venting.

  21. #6846
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by muted View Post
    AH, I forgot about the buddy. That's a solid option that is cheap. No reconfiguring, just throw it in the van when needed.
    Don't forget it burns O2 and releases moisture. Make sure your CO detector works.

  22. #6847
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    8,924
    Quote Originally Posted by apex dave View Post
    Don't forget it burns O2 and releases moisture. Make sure your CO detector works.
    Yeah. CO detector and this is really just a supplement for five or so minutes on really cold mornings or if we’re out in the parking lot partying at sundown, take it a little deep and forget to fire up the heat prior to settling in for the night. We might use a little green bomb a season. Maybe two if it’s a really cold season. We also don’t use the water system in the winter.

    I’d like to upgrade to diesel heat someday but for now we’re onboard propane. With a puffy jacket and really only using heat in the mornings and evenings, we’ve stretched the five gal tank upwards of a week for heat and cooking. Finding refills on trips is pretty easy but sometimes annoying.

  23. #6848
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NCW
    Posts
    2,745

    Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

    What kind of temps are you dealing with? Just got home from 6 nights with lows in the 20ís and didnít blow the 5gal tank in the Bigfoot with the t-stat at 45F. For winter trips when we hang out in the camper a lot I sometimes bring an electric space heater to run while the generator is running in the evening to really dry the place out. The Honda is super efficient and gasoline is even easier to find than propane.

  24. #6849
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    8,924
    Coldest weíve done is -15* or so and hit that a couple times a year. Typically high teens and 20s so donít bring the buddy. Itís a small space and nowhere to store a generator unless we have gas in the cab. Our van is a passenger van so windows all the way around. We have reflectix on all glass overnight but there can still quite a bit of ice on the inside in the morning. Just added solar, have two new 4d agm batteries going in the week. Best thing though is I got a favor from the race program guys and can probably plug in but have to check on groomer timing so it may not work. Might be able to go electric heat this year with better power.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Conundrum; 11-24-2020 at 02:17 AM.

  25. #6850
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    9,426
    Quote Originally Posted by Conundrum View Post
    Coldest we’ve done is -15* or so and hit that a couple times a year. Typically high teens and 20s so don’t bring the buddy. It’s a small space and nowhere to store a generator unless we have gas in the cab. Our van is a passenger van so windows all the way around. We have reflectix on all glass overnight but there can still quite a bit of ice on the inside in the morning. Just added solar, have two new 4d agm batteries going in the week. Best thing though is I got a favor from the race program guys and can probably plug in but have to check on groomer timing so it may not work. Might be able to go electric heat this year with better power.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Is that a center console/ toilet combo?

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