Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[Name Redacted]

I spoke to Jay last week and he told me about it. He said the bed used to be made out of wood like FWC but they were switching to this new material and would eat the cost difference without raising prices. Keep in mind that the lead time on these is 9-10 months currently, so it could still be months away before the production changes and they update the web site.

Grinch, yes these are really basic. I would just call it a pop-up shell more than an actual camper. Mine is for more serious off-road stuff rather than ski resort parking lot use, so weight is super important. Assuming I won't be carrying more gear than I already carry, adding this will add < 300 lbs which should keep the truck's nimble rock-crawling capability. Last time I went with my friends I was the only person in a tent and the night it snowed really sucked. Now at least I'll stay warmer, but for ski camping I'll take the Escape trailer.

Really like that OVRLND topper. Do you plan to add any support to the body of the truck bed? Seems like it could deform it with bouncing around and two people in the top bunk. Any idea what the wait time is on those?

[grinch]

A quiver, thatd be the ticket. I could get by with a light set up in the summer. Currently ive just built a bed under my truck cap with tupperware storage underneath. Super basic. Used it in the winter but no place to sit up unless im crawling out of the box and into the cab. I guess thats the advantage of the m series setup. You could have some seating and ljght cooking in the box under the pop up bed. No rock crawling for me. Id be interested in seeing some pics when you get out with your set up putting it to the test though

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[grinch]

This old chevy setup $$$$

https://www.instagram.com/p/B_zsYFHJ...=14ivudi30qy85

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[Kopi_Red]

These are super rare if someone on here is looking for a lightweight 4-season truck camper:
Attachment 327251
https://bozeman.craigslist.org/rvs/d...116479952.html

Those 6'10" are sweet. I want.

[frorider]

These hard sided pop up campers from Hiatus are interesting: https://www.hiatuscampers.com/

I know plenty of friends with pop up 4WC campers, which are fine, but are basically tent walls on upper half. Not particularly warm in a blizzard, and get mildewy if you don’t dry out thoroughly after a wet trip.

[skysos]

Really like that OVRLND topper. Do you plan to add any support to the body of the truck bed? Seems like it could deform it with bouncing around and two people in the top bunk. Any idea what the wait time is on those?

I'm not sure what the first part of that means because you won't be driving around with the top popped, but the bed is steel on the Colorado so I don't think there is any way to deform it without dropping something really heavy on it with force. Certainly the aluminum of the OVRLND would fail long before the steel bed would. The wait time is 9-10 months.

[Name Redacted]

I'm not sure what the first part of that means because you won't be driving around with the top popped, but the bed is steel on the Colorado so I don't think there is any way to deform it without dropping something really heavy on it with force. Certainly the aluminum of the OVRLND would fail long before the steel bed would. The wait time is 9-10 months.

Should have been more clear. I looks like all the weight is on the bed rails. These have been know to deform and sometimes people add reinforcement to them to prevent them from being damaged.

9-10 months is the same as the GFC.

That Hiatus looks nice too but almost twice the price? I do like the hard sides on the popup.

[Dantheman]

That Hiatus looks nice too but almost twice the price? I do like the hard sides on the popup.

With a couple of the add-ons and/or a full-size model you start approaching $20k pretty fast. They also recommend a suspension upgrade in the FAQ. It's a rad-looking design for sure but definitely not a "budget" option.

[byates1]

Quarentinewhile:

Made insulated panels for the van, was using a 3$ quilt I got from a Mammoth thrift store this Dec. Spray glue black felt to it, cut and duct tape the edges and Velcro. Stealth and isolating the only uninsulated part of the rig.

Panels will lie flat under the bed most of the time..

[skysos]

Should have been more clear. I looks like all the weight is on the bed rails. These have been know to deform and sometimes people add reinforcement to them to prevent them from being damaged.

9-10 months is the same as the GFC.

That Hiatus looks nice too but almost twice the price? I do like the hard sides on the popup.

IC. Yes, I think you could warp the bed rails if you used steel clamps and overtightened them. That's definitely happened to people with Chevy trucks. It puts a dent where the clamp is. I never considered that but I don't think it's any different than a normal camper shell. I had a Snugtop on there at one point that was 240 lbs, so not much difference between that and an OVRLND except that a little more weight will be on the forward end.

I looked at Haitus but the sides slope in which makes the bed only 50" wide. That's 4" narrower than a full which is a deal breaker for me. If you ever tried to sleep 2 people on a super-single you will know what that's like. There are also no side windows in the popped portion.

[babybear]

First time poster here.

I have been living in a van for about 2.5 years now around California (SoCal, Central Coast, and now the Bay Area). My home is a NV2500. I have never spent any time in the mountains during the winter with it because it isn't set up for that. But I am think it is time to change that.

I am looking at getting another van and I think I have decided on a Promaster with a 159" WB. I think the interior dimensions work well for what I want. A big factor is having the bed sideways. I just need to wait until one comes up that I like and is within my price range.

Is anyone here in a Promaster? What have you learned about it?

we have a 136 WB promaster and did the bed sideways which barely fits my husband at 6' but works well
We live in Jackson, Wy and it does pretty damn well in the snow for not being 4wd/awd (you want at least front wheel drive in the mtns vs rear wheel which is what the ford transits are [unless you go brand spankin' new bc they just added an awd option])

we bought ours blank inside and the husband built it out with insulation, a bed platform, bike trays and ski storage under the bed and a couple storage compartments, solar panels. we didn't bother with any of the built in stoves, sink etc since it takes up too much space but we did do the front seats on the swivel which is nice for hanging out inside, but also puts you up a couple inches higher and you already sit pretty high in that vehicle.
The other good thing about the promaster is that it's a bit easier to install a gas tank linked heater as you don't have to cut into the gas tank, but not sure if that's something you'd add being in warmer climes than we are. The promaster also has excellent built in storage above the front seats- super handy compartments
Overall happy with it and much more affordable than the MB's
It drives a bit more like a truck than our old eurovan, which I *&$^#@ loved, but just got too old and finicky
It seems like a palace having the high roof to stand up in- makes such a huge difference
We went with the shorter 136 wheelbase since it's a dd for us but the 159 would probably feel like a palace

[chaka]

we have a 136 WB promaster and did the bed sideways which barely fits my husband at 6' but works well
We live in Jackson, Wy and it does pretty damn well in the snow for not being 4wd/awd (you want at least front wheel drive in the mtns vs rear wheel which is what the ford transits are [unless you go brand spankin' new bc they just added an awd option])

we bought ours blank inside and the husband built it out with insulation, a bed platform, bike trays and ski storage under the bed and a couple storage compartments, solar panels. we didn't bother with any of the built in stoves, sink etc since it takes up too much space but we did do the front seats on the swivel which is nice for hanging out inside, but also puts you up a couple inches higher and you already sit pretty high in that vehicle.
The other good thing about the promaster is that it's a bit easier to install a gas tank linked heater as you don't have to cut into the gas tank, but not sure if that's something you'd add being in warmer climes than we are. The promaster also has excellent built in storage above the front seats- super handy compartments
Overall happy with it and much more affordable than the MB's
It drives a bit more like a truck than our old eurovan, which I *&$^#@ loved, but just got too old and finicky
It seems like a palace having the high roof to stand up in- makes such a huge difference
We went with the shorter 136 wheelbase since it's a dd for us but the 159 would probably feel like a palace

Concur with babybear, we had a Travato (based on long body Promaster) for a few years. It managed OK in snow using these Thule/Konig chains when dealing with ice. The chains are expensive but I'm impressed. and yes, the above cabin storage is really helpful.

[hutash]

I haven't been following this thread, but have been look at a Transit van by vandoit.com. Anybody looked at these? Pretty cool modular system which I find enticing. Starts with the passenger version and builds from there, so still pretty function and safe for extra passengers.

[frorider]

Yup I’m quite familiar with the vandoit vans. They had a booth at the Reno Interbike so I talked extensively to one of their designer engrs. Like my Transit, they make extensive use of aluminum 80/20 and keep things modular. I can give you more pros/cons if you’re interested.

[jaywf956]

Babybear, thanks for the info. I decided on the 159 because total exterior length is nearly the same as my NV, but the cargo area is almost two feet longer. The NV wastes a lot of space in the engine bay. Do you use the name brand heater or one of the Chinese ones? I am shying away from the gas or diesel heaters because I have hear they can be unreliable at high elevation. Was thinking of the Propex heater because I'll already have propane for the stove and maybe a hot water heater.

[climberevan]

Babybear, thanks for the info. I decided on the 159 because total exterior length is nearly the same as my NV, but the cargo area is almost two feet longer. The NV wastes a lot of space in the engine bay. Do you use the name brand heater or one of the Chinese ones? I am shying away from the gas or diesel heaters because I have hear they can be unreliable at high elevation. Was thinking of the Propex heater because I'll already have propane for the stove and maybe a hot water heater.

Chinese diesel heater has worked fabulously for us for 2 winters at elevations up to 9000ft. I've done zero maintenance, and it just starts right up. Best $150 I've spent on the RV.

Sent from my LG-US998 using TGR Forums mobile app

[SB]

[doebedoe]

That rig is sick.

And here I am building out my sissy minivan, reusing cast-off ski gear along the way.

This is the new bed platform stored behind the rear bench.

[sklar]

This is the solar setup that came in my Astro. I know very little about anything electrical.
Is there anything sketchy looking that should be addressed ASAP?
I heard I should replace the battery, as this is not a deep cycle, and this type should be vented.

[El Chupacabra]

^^^ I don't like the use of twist caps for wiring on anything other than solid core wires in houses. And you're right, that is a lead-acid battery that should be vented.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...ze-H7/20531542

You're also right that it's a starting battery, not a deep cycle. That might work for awhile for the house battery in a converted Astro van (i.e. not much drain) but a deep cycle one is the correct choice.

Finally, I can't tell if there are any battery tie-downs. Any battery should be secured. Lead-acid especially so; if it tips over, acid will spill out.

If you want to keep that same battery compartment (not vented), something like a deep cycle AGM would work. No venting needed. Still, tie it down with something.

[North]

Positive lead of that battery should be fused as close to the battery as possible.

[sklar]

^^^ I don't like the use of twist caps for wiring on anything other than solid core wires in houses. And you're right, that is a lead-acid battery that should be vented.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...ze-H7/20531542

You're also right that it's a starting battery, not a deep cycle. That might work for awhile for the house battery in a converted Astro van (i.e. not much drain) but a deep cycle one is the correct choice.

Finally, I can't tell if there are any battery tie-downs. Any battery should be secured. Lead-acid especially so; if it tips over, acid will spill out.

If you want to keep that same battery compartment (not vented), something like a deep cycle AGM would work. No venting needed. Still, tie it down with something.

Right on, thanks.
Any recs on a replacement AGM battery?
My head is kind of spinning trying to figure out which to get.
My power needs are pretty low.

[simple]

Duracell AGM from Sam's Club. Highly recommend on quality and price

[sklar]

Right on.
I know for capacity that I should really be doing calculations based on power usage, but any ideas on what Ah battery might be reasonable given the size of that solar panel?
I don't really have major power needs, and don't plan on adding more panels.

[jackattack]

Right on.
I know for capacity that I should really be doing calculations based on power usage, but any ideas on what Ah battery might be reasonable given the size of that solar panel?
I don't really have major power needs, and don't plan on adding more panels.

What size is your panel? To match the battery in place, you're looking at about 125ah.
Solar is a crapshoot in winter this far north.

The inverter complicates things because you need to convert your AC draw to DC to size the battery.
Will you primarily be using 12vDC equipment (lights, furnace, etc), or using the inverter?