Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[powdrhound]

For me, it comes down to the battery.
I can only fit a small size 34 battery, and even with the smallest heater fan the real heater is hard on it, more so on those clear cold nights following the storm. I now use just the wave 6 on Medium for 95% of my stay. Uses less propane, too. Run the big heater for a quick heatup once in a while.

ps. Abusing the Optima battery for 8 years hasn’t been good for it. It is time for a new one, but now that I am using it less, it is a smaller problem...

[BoulderBreak]

Great stuff in here, here's my rig. Promaster 136 built out from scratch. Did MC roadtrip through BC and the west last winter handled everything great. Propane heater with external vent (and intake) is essential for winter IMO. Mr. Buddy is easy and cheap, but leaves everything a swampy mess.

Last Jan.


Interior.



Been tons of fun and a great project. Honestly, I kinda want to build another one.

[tmokes]

When I slept in my car, I used battery pack/portable jumper and plug in heated blanket in my sleeping bag. I’m sure family isn’t gonna put up with that long.


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[wyeaster]

When I slept in my car, I used battery pack/portable jumper and plug in heated blanket in my sleeping bag. I’m sure family isn’t gonna put up with that long.


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dang!

[detrusor]

Been running the espar D2 a ton,now smoking and misfiring occasionally. I’m going to service the glow plug, screen and filter myself. Any tips?


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[tmokes]

So I have been looking at used F350 in anticipation for buying a slide in camper as suggested...

Should I even consider leasing?? I’m not using it to commute so I won’t rack up mileage and I don’t have to worry about rear suspension if I leave camper on loaded...

Do I need to make a separate thread in tech talk?


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[Kailua_Boys]

I would buy a used one. The used market for a full size gasser is a buyers market.

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[tmokes]

Yeah I never considered leasing but I also never considered a truck either... having a kid changes everything.


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[DanoT]

Regardless of whether the truck is 3/4 or 1 ton, you are going to want to install rear suspension airbags (or overload helper springs) and if it is a diesel maybe front air bags as well.

Because of the heavy diesel engine and camper cab overhang with under bed storage, my truck and camper set up puts more weight on the front axle than the rear, so I have front and rear air bags. And I had an extra leaf spring added to the front spring pack on each side.

You also want "Load Range E" tires.

[Micol]

I would buy a used one. The used market for a full size gasser is a buyers market.

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So I have been looking at used F350 in anticipation for buying a slide in camper as suggested...

Should I even consider leasing?? I’m not using it to commute so I won’t rack up mileage and I don’t have to worry about rear suspension if I leave camper on loaded...

Do I need to make a separate thread in tech talk?


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be very careful with ford 6.0 and 6.4 used diesels....they can be time bombs as these were produced by navistar and a quick web search will lead you to discover the pitfalls and costs .....however, buying a 6.0/6.4 with a blown motor cheap and replacing with long block or crated complete rebuild ($15,000) can give you a 0 mile 10 year old frame $20,000 bad ass 20 mpg in flats, 4x4 truck that will last. if you go this route look at jk engines in mt juliet tn. i have had a good experience first hand with them and am about 30K miles in on one of their remanufactured motors....ftr: they engineered out the bottom of block navistar cam problems

ps BoulderBreak very cool build !

[tmokes]

I’m looking at 6.2L gas engine. Never had diesel motor and maintenance on those sounds like a pain in ass.

I heard about air bag suspensions... are they expensive? I just joined Ford forum to see how I can tell what kind of suspension a truck has... F350 came in 3 different suspension and I want the “overload” suspension. Someone said Ford offered “camper package”. I guess I’ll look for that package or at least beefed up suspension.


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[TAFKALVS]

Don't lease. You don't need airbags if you don't get some giant stupid camper.

[Tye 1on]

Great stuff in here, here's my rig. Promaster 136 built out from scratch. Did MC roadtrip through BC and the west last winter handled everything great. Propane heater with external vent (and intake) is essential for winter IMO. Mr. Buddy is easy and cheap, but leaves everything a swampy mess.

Last Jan.


Interior.



Been tons of fun and a great project. Honestly, I kinda want to build another one.

Nice build, dig the chalkboard doors...[you're out of paper towels, party foul...]

[jackattack]

I’m looking at 6.2L gas engine. Never had diesel motor and maintenance on those sounds like a pain in ass.

I heard about air bag suspensions... are they expensive? I just joined Ford forum to see how I can tell what kind of suspension a truck has... F350 came in 3 different suspension and I want the “overload” suspension. Someone said Ford offered “camper package”. I guess I’ll look for that package or at least beefed up suspension.

Camper package is basically the necessary suspension upgrades including rear sway bar, upgraded F&R springs w/ overloads and "camper certification". It increases the truck's stability under load but not it's payload sticker.

My F250 with camper package is functionally the same as an F350, but lower registration fees because it's a Class II truck.

[El Chupacabra]

I think some camper packages also come with a wiring hookup under the bed, near the front, to connect to the camper electrical. Mine, unfortunately, did not.

[tmokes]

Thanks, I didn’t know about the registration.. Leavenworth, do you know how it works in WA?


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[Norseman]

I think some camper packages also come with a wiring hookup under the bed, near the front, to connect to the camper electrical. Mine, unfortunately, did not.

RV shops sell 10- or 12-foot pre-wired pigtails to plug into the back of your bumper harness and route up to the bed side. Requires the balls to holesaw through your truck bed but it sure is nice to have a short cable to the camper. Pretty inexpensive and easy.

[El Chupacabra]

RV shops sell 10- or 12-foot pre-wired pigtails to plug into the back of your bumper harness and route up to the bed side. Requires the balls to holesaw through your truck bed but it sure is nice to have a short cable to the camper. Pretty inexpensive and easy.

True, but then you have wiring running all the way from the front end to the hitch, and all the way back to the front of the bed. And manufacturer wiring is pretty narrow gauge anyway.

I ran my own wiring with 12ga from a solenoid, up to the front of the bed, help charge the camper batteries while driving. Works pretty well.

[Norseman]

Yes, that's the best solution, of course.

My point was that it's a relatively straightforward DIY project, thus the (non)presence of a factory camper wiring setup shouldn't discourage those searching for a truck.

[GeezerSteve]

FWIW, FWC uses Attwood trolling motor connectors. 10 gauge wire. Outlet is located on inside wall of bed a few inches behind cab on driver's side, keeping the wire run between starter battery and camper nice and short. It was an easy install in the new truck. 30A reset circuit breaker in series at + battery terminal. No solenoid because our Hawk came with battery separator.

[B__]

^^Currently ...

[El Chupacabra]

Yes, that's the best solution, of course.

My point was that it's a relatively straightforward DIY project, thus the (non)presence of a factory camper wiring setup shouldn't discourage those searching for a truck.

Agreed. I just mentioned the wiring hookup as a possible nice bonus that may come with a factory "camper package" on a truck.

[tmokes]

How easy is it to add extra spring to the rear suspension? If it cost some money, should I just get air suspension?


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[skysos]

How easy is it to add extra spring to the rear suspension? If it cost some money, should I just get air suspension?


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FWIW, my F350 + Arctic Fox 990 did not need extra springs or airbags. It had a payload rating of over 5,700 lbs and the truck camper was about 1,000 lbs under that.

I put these on: https://www.torklift.com/automotive/stableload. Both uppers and lowers. Rock solid and adjustable for when you run empty or lightly loaded.

You will also need the frame-mounted tiedowns and some turnbuckles like Fastguns.

As for gas vs. diesel, please think about that very carefully before you jump in. I had a hell of of time selling my low mileage 6.2 gasser and ended up getting a lot less than bluebook private party. EVERYONE who called was looking for a diesel. One guy even came over with a check and was about to hand it to me when he opened the hood and was just shocked that it was a gas 6.2. The only good application for the 6.2 gasser is to haul a load, and most people are looking to tow heavy. So unless you plan to drive it into the ground I would go diesel.

My unloaded fuel economy was about 14 mpg and I know the diesel is more like 18. It was also way underpowered for the load I was carrying. Going up hills at altitude was painful. It's not fun running that engine at 5,000 rpm going 45 and getting passed by a Fuso commercial box truck! The 1-ton application of the 6.2 is only something like 340 hp which isn't enough when you are talking about 12,500 lbs.

[Name Redacted]

One of the better custom builds I've seen. Mainly because although it's a pop-up style, it is still insulated so probably decent in the winter. I'd buy a production version, especially if built for a full-sized truck. Unfortunately, my time/skill level for this sort of build is lacking.

https://imgur.com/gallery/RokIb