Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[goldengatestinx]

Powderhorn for sure. Paved lot even. Did it last season free on the LLand pass.

[nobueno]

Mary Jane's upper lots have people staying in them. I don't think they say it is ok but they don't really enforce any ban.

Hush. Don't ruin it.

[nobueno]

Looks like I will be joining the ranks the the ski bums this year. Planning on living for a few months in the truck camper I just acquired skiing and snowmobiling across the west. Getting an Epic pass, and a Mountain Collective pass and plan to try and ski all of the areas on each (in the the US and Canada).

Going to use a trailer for sled storage, ski storage as well as storing items I don't want in the truck or camper. Weight will be a big issue so I am trying to keep as much out of the truck as possible.

Currently working on insulating the camper with 1.5" pink board on the truck bottom and I'll be putting .5 inch foil faced foam on the sides and seating bottom.

I won't be using the water in the camper, so I don't need to worry about it freezing, but I will be using the on-board toiled in emergencies. I just plan on flushing it with RV anti freeze.

As far as power goes I am going to put 2, maybe 3 group 31 deep cycle batteries in the camper, along with the on board 20lb LP tank with an additional 100lb tank in the trailer with a hose I can hook to the camper for extended stays. On my calculations this should allow me to run the heater for about 36 hours straight before needing a charge. So realistically about 4 days of heat before needing to take action. That will give me about a day reserve as I don't see myself not starting the truck for anymore than 3 days.

Anyways, these are just my initial thoughts, lots of reading and adjusting left to do!

Get solar. If you have a forced air furnace I wouldn't count on 36hrs of actual run time but depending how warm you want to keep it you could easily last the 4 days you're shooting for. The furnace uses quite a draw and remember you can't run your batteries past 50% so cut the available amp hours in half. 20lb propane should easily last that long though. Make sure the batteries are in a vented box somewhere.

Insulation on the bottom is good and all but keep in mind you lose the most heat out the top.

Also, that looks like a huge load for a tundra haha.

[powdrhound]

You need a catalytic heater.

[doebedoe]

Well my friend got into the camper game in the dirtiest way possible. This is going to to be an interesting experiment. This evening we replaced numerous wood bits from the original 1988 frame. It won't be pretty ever, but seems like it will it at least keep snow off of us and have a functioning furnace. Dogs will provide lap warmth.

[Danny Noonan]

That is the best way possible to get into it. No need to go spend $30K on something off the bat, unless you are planning on living in it for the winter. Weekend or long weekend warrioring though need not be expensive. Bring the dogs and a bunch of blankets and sleeping bags...buy a Mr. Buddy...and enjoy the hell out of it. We have been meaning to upgrade for a long time, but those old character ones are just too much fun to play with.

[TAFKALVS]

Well my friend got into the camper game in the dirtiest way possible. This is going to to be an interesting experiment. This evening we replaced numerous wood bits from the original 1988 frame. It won't be pretty ever, but seems like it will it at least keep snow off of us and have a functioning furnace. Dogs will provide lap warmth.

Is it Northstar? Been doing the same on our Northstar, been working on insulating it with hardboard foam as well. We are also sewing insulated curtains for the pop-up portion. I'd make sure you insulate the battery box and under the sink, ours had gaps in the insulation that was letting a lot of cold in. I took the water tank out for the winter, more room for boots and other gear,

[doebedoe]

Is it Northstar? Been doing the same on our Northstar, been working on insulating it with hardboard foam as well. We are also sewing insulated curtains for the pop-up portion. I'd make sure you insulate the battery box and under the sink, ours had gaps in the insulation that was letting a lot of cold in. I took the water tank out for the winter, more room for boots and other gear,

Good beta, thanks. Mostly my buddy's project but I'll be lending a hand where I can. Its a bit more spacious for hanging out post ski/skin than my camper van in winter.

Its an old Scamper. Not sure of models specifics. Had a furnace, 3-burner stove and a fridge. Sleeps 3. Unclear which of the things work but at a couple hundred dollars it was worth a shot. Currently fixing up the roof, getting everything re-caulked and water tight. Probably will then go on to cleaning up the inside, removing anything we can't get working for more storage space. Really hope to get furnace going, everything else is easy to replace with a coleman camp and a cooler. Nice if we could get the electrical rigged up too and charge batteries off an alternator but that isn't as high priority.

This will likely be the main rig for when 3 of us do a big MCP loop to JH -> Sun Valley -> AltaBird -> TRide in Jan/Feb. With a night or two in a hotel and at friends to really dry everything out .

[TAFKALVS]

Good beta, thanks. Mostly my buddy's project but I'll be lending a hand where I can. Its a bit more spacious for hanging out post ski/skin than my camper van in winter.

Its an old Scamper. Not sure of models specifics. Had a furnace, 3-burner stove and a fridge. Sleeps 3. Unclear which of the things work but at a couple hundred dollars it was worth a shot. Currently fixing up the roof, getting everything re-caulked and water tight. Probably will then go on to cleaning up the inside, removing anything we can't get working for more storage space. Really hope to get furnace going, everything else is easy to replace with a coleman camp and a cooler. Nice if we could get the electrical rigged up too and charge batteries off an alternator but that isn't as high priority.

This will likely be the main rig for when 3 of us do a big MCP loop to JH -> Sun Valley -> AltaBird -> TRide in Jan/Feb. With a night or two in a hotel and at friends to really dry everything out .

Great Stuff Foam works good for filling all the cracks and voids on the interior. Have you tried the getting the fridge and heater working? I was told neither worked in ours when we bought it but we took it to a RV shop and they fiddled around with everything and got it working for us for $100. The fridge is a really nice thing to have, with 3 dudes space is at a premium and the cooler is going to take up a lot of space. At the very least look at switching the fridge out for an icebox.

[AmmergauerTele]

Anybody ever buy on this website, looks cool:

https://gsaauctions.gov/gsaauctions/...81QSCI17006010

[MakersTeleMark]

I've purchased through GSA. It can be hit or miss on how quickly you can get a SF97.

[Yukonrider]

That trailer might be a challenge for you in snowparks on snow days if they haven't been plowed, at least in the PNW.

You might consider something like this...

Might be lighter as well.

I did consider that, but the price was right on this one, if it really sucks I can modify while I'm out there.

Be sure you vent that 100lb tank in the trailer properly. Or maybe just mount two 20lb ones on the tongue of the trailer, outside?

Good looking out, I'll look into it.

Get solar. If you have a forced air furnace I wouldn't count on 36hrs of actual run time but depending how warm you want to keep it you could easily last the 4 days you're shooting for. The furnace uses quite a draw and remember you can't run your batteries past 50% so cut the available amp hours in half. 20lb propane should easily last that long though. Make sure the batteries are in a vented box somewhere.

Insulation on the bottom is good and all but keep in mind you lose the most heat out the top.

Also, that looks like a huge load for a tundra haha.

The 36 hour number was with 50% and a little on the top, it sounded realistic by my calculations but I wouldn't hold my breath. My furnace claims to draw 2.8 amps, I haven't tested it yet, but those are the numbers on the box. Really it just needs to last 3 full nights and I'll be totally happy, I can't imagine I wont run my truck for any more than that. As such I opted out of solar. I just didn't think the added weight (way up high) would be worth it for what I am trying to do.

Good call on insulating the top. Hard to do without bastardizing the camper, but I will have heat reflective window and vent covers, which should help a lot.

As for your last point, you would be correct.

[nobueno]

The 36 hour number was with 50% and a little on the top, it sounded realistic by my calculations but I wouldn't hold my breath. My furnace claims to draw 2.8 amps, I haven't tested it yet, but those are the numbers on the box. Really it just needs to last 3 full nights and I'll be totally happy, I can't imagine I wont run my truck for any more than that. As such I opted out of solar. I just didn't think the added weight (way up high) would be worth it for what I am trying to do.

That's great, 2.8 amps is a pretty low draw, ours was almost 7. Still, our camper was insulated to r20 pretty much throughout so the furnace would only run for about 15 min every hour when it was 0 degrees outside (2 hrs for a night). That alone would run our two group 27 batteries down from 12.8 to 12.5 overnight. We had a 200AH battery bank. Those AH ratings are for ideal conditions. 0 degrees in a box that's vented to the outside is far from ideal for batteries. Not saying you don't have enough battery to keep you somewhat warm at night over 3 nights but I'd make sure you have a good sleeping bag with you just in case.


Edit: If you do end up needing more power you could always get a 100w suitcase solar like this. You could put it in the trailer so it wouldn't take too much space or add much weight where you don't want it. https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-...00LXG4AXS?th=1

[powdrhound]

Get solar. A 100w panel with those three batteries and you will never have to run a generator.

[Yukonrider]

After more research considering running only two batteries and one 100 or 150 watt solar panel. What's a good way to mount a panel? I'm scared to drill holes in the roof...

[wicked_sick]

I've done it with flexible panels and dual lock fasteners (like super velcro on steroids). That allowed me to alternate the panels between the roof of my tent trailer and a homemade sort of a solar suitcase setup.

[MakersTeleMark]

A tip on hard mounting panels:

You want to slightly elevate the panel from the surface for air circulation. I also slightly tip it as well for runoff.

Big Stretch is a good adhesive for sealing the mounting holes/hardware. I use these simple mounts: http://www.unlimited-solar.com/solar...g-kit-z-shape/

[Tryingtostaywarm]

Yukon,

That trailer is going to not do you any favors if you even try to pull onto a forest-service road. If you stick to semi-paved ski lots/parking lots, sure you'll be good. So, if thats the plan..then no problemo.
You can give some lift on that trailer pretty easily if you have any acquaintances who can weld.
1. "flipping the springs" is most common for people wanting to increase trailer height, all you do is you take the leaf springs from the bottom of the axle to the top, welding required.
2. Getting longer leaf hangers which increases ride height. welding required.

Both are super simple, super easy for anyone with any type of mechanical and even a little welding knowledge. Food for thought.

[GPP33]

Search JONG. There are tons of threads. Like: http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...-Locale-Thread

tl;dr: Most resorts don't allow it. They manage the FS land, they set the rules on access during ski season. Almost none explicitly allow it, some do allow it if you ask nicely. In Colorado the "ask nicely" is basically Wolf Creek and Monarch. Maybe Purgatory, Powderhorn and Copper. No one else on I70

Free lot at Breck. Campers there all the time, and a porta potty.

[Yukonrider]

Yukon,

That trailer is going to not do you any favors if you even try to pull onto a forest-service road. If you stick to semi-paved ski lots/parking lots, sure you'll be good. So, if thats the plan..then no problemo.
You can give some lift on that trailer pretty easily if you have any acquaintances who can weld.
1. "flipping the springs" is most common for people wanting to increase trailer height, all you do is you take the leaf springs from the bottom of the axle to the top, welding required.
2. Getting longer leaf hangers which increases ride height. welding required.

Both are super simple, super easy for anyone with any type of mechanical and even a little welding knowledge. Food for thought.

That's two votes saying the trailer will suck, I will look into taking corrective action. Especially because I'm not one to let a snowy parking lot get the best of me...

[ACH]

That's two votes saying the trailer will suck, I will look into taking corrective action. Especially because I'm not one to let a snowy parking lot get the best of me...

An additional thought on the trailer and you truck/camper.

In the picture you posted, the tongue on the trailer seemed shortish to me relative to the back of the camper extending of the bed of the Tundra.
Maybe it's just the angle of the image? Do you have enough clearance in a tight corner?

[NoPostholio]

^^ I wondered same as usually pulling something behind TC overhang requires superhitch and extension truss.

[oftpiste]

http://bringatrailer.com/2016/10/14/...oyota-chinook/

[Norseman]

How about your tiedowns? Got em worked out since the picture was taken?

[Norseman]

Here's mine today, new shoes on the rig. Let it snow, motherfuckers!