Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

[Andyski]

1) Never say never. You'll never carry anyone else, ever? Never develop any new hobbies that might weigh more than zero? You just said you might get snowmobiles...

2) Ram vs Ford vs GM - fans of each, detractors of each. Pick your favorite. Personally I'd like a 1-ton SRW truck that looks like a Ram for styling, but with a Ford aluminum body and axles, a GM gas motor and transmission, and built by Toyota in Japan.

3) Diesel vs gas - diesel will have lower payload comparably equipped vs gas, always, due to weight of engine. Fans and detractors of each, again.

100% fair. Thx

[apex dave]

The dually debate continues. My rig is a 24 foot Class C Super Duty 450 with V10 and positrac on ordinary Bridgestone M&S tires, GVW 14,400 lbs. I have too many years driving/skiing in BC and western Alberta. In ordinary winter driving they work fine but the question here is how do they perform in the nasty, snowy, treacherous conditions we love to ski. Here is my experience in just such extreme conditions.
I left Calgary heading west for Vancouver in light snow which was quickly getting worse. By Canmore road conditions had deteriorated dramatically and it was a full on blizzard. The highway was just two trenches with cars, trucks, semis littering the ditches and median.
I just kept plugging along as there was no choice to turn around. When I got to the Lake Louise overpass the highway was closed. To leave the highway there is a steep uphill exit ramp to get to the overpass. With a jackknifed van and trailer on one side and a semi in the dich on the other side, I carefully drove up the ramp (much to the astonishment of two tow truck drivers waiting on the overpass for victims) and proceeded into town. Duallys are OK by me.
If Covid allows we will hit the road again this winter but I might upgrade the tires to Nokian LT3s.

[grinch]

Nothing wrong with duellies. Its all about the weight. Logging trucks weighted with proper tires will climb the nastiest hills with nothing but compact on the road but then a b train pulling a load with way less of the weight on top of the axles will spin out on a banana peal. Try and punch through deep snow and you better have the weight and i'd recommend a couple bags of sand and tire chains and a tow strap. Tows can get pricey. Little sand and a shovel will go a long way

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[Hopeless Sinner]

Similar to the general advice out there on the interwebs, so good to hear here as well. Might as well turn this into a full WWMD (and, yes, have done PLENTY of wanderthewest/expedition portal searching): I've ordered a loaded FWC Hawk. It's gonna be ~1500 pounds dry, so let's say 2k wet w/gear. Will never be more than my wife and I, and we're not heavy. Not pets, no other gas-powered toys to carry or tow. Will take the camper off for big stretches and use as a quasi DD - a few days a week of light commuting, driving to the mountains on weekends, dump runs, etc. Want the truck to be good on FS roads - some on the shittier side like the road to S Climb on Adams, but no wheeling nonsense - and not ride like a basketball on the highway unloaded, but I'm not dumb enough to expect a Cadillac either (current rig is FJ Cruiser).

Yeah, I guess it's possible we'll hate the popup and want a much heavier hard-side or some shit, but I doubt it. We're not buying a boat. It's a remote possibility we'll want to tow snowmobiles at some point in the future I guess.

A Ram 2500 Hemi (crew/6'5" box) has a ~3k payload. That looks like plenty to me, and will ride better w/o load, which will be most of the time. F250 gasser (supercab/same box) is like 2,500k payload, and has rear leafs, so I assume will ride the same as a 350/3500 so why bother? If the 2500 will have any real limitations (would need a burlier sway bar, but maybe that's it?) then yeah, you just nut up and get a 3500 or 350. If not, the only reason to throw down for the 1-ton seems like future proofing/mechanical margin of error, yeah? Once we get into 1-tons, I can get all the gas v. diesel commentary elsewhere -.

So, no towing, no super crazy payloads (camper trips max) and plenty of non-laden driving. WWMD?

My buddy has the same camper on a Tundra crew cab. It does fine and he tows a small utility trailer at times. If you've got 1000 lbs spare capacity may as well stay w the 3/4T.

[teleee]

1) Never say never. You'll never carry anyone else, ever? Never develop any new hobbies that might weigh more than zero? You just said you might get snowmobiles...

2) Ram vs Ford vs GM - fans of each, detractors of each. Pick your favorite. Personally I'd like a 1-ton SRW truck that looks like a Ram for styling, but with a Ford aluminum body and axles, a GM gas motor and transmission, and built by Toyota in Japan.

3) Diesel vs gas - diesel will have lower payload comparably equipped vs gas, always, due to weight of engine. Fans and detractors of each, again.

I agree with this. Given your useage I would stick with a 3/4 ton. For the record I am on my 3rd Dodge/Ram. The first 2 went 200,000 miles with no majors. I am a big fan of the hemi, it has been fantastic so far (100,000 miles on this one). I tow a camper with mine and it get used pretty hard, not a grocery getter by any means.

[Hopeless Sinner]

The move is an externally vented propane, gas, or diesel furnace such as a Propex, Webasto, or Espar. Dry heat, compact package thermostat controlled, and sips fuel. Only downsides are involved are involved installs and $$$

Truma Combi is another one to look at.

[jackattack]

@grinch. Camper looks like a nice one. Per our pm’s I think you’ve got a good handle on things. One thing that drives the HD debate in the lower 48 are our fucking insane speed limits. Driving my tundra/camper combo in western Canada has been a breeze.

@andyski truck choice is a compromise. Go with the 1 ton if you want payload peace of mind, but it will suck to drive on forest roads and around town compared to a tundra or beefed up f150. For occasional use I’m happy with the tundra. It’s certainly different than the diesel f250 for long interstate runs with the load but not a problem if I drive 65 and so much better as a daily driver.

[toast2266]

Similar to the general advice out there on the interwebs, so good to hear here as well. Might as well turn this into a full WWMD (and, yes, have done PLENTY of wanderthewest/expedition portal searching): I've ordered a loaded FWC Hawk. It's gonna be ~1500 pounds dry, so let's say 2k wet w/gear. Will never be more than my wife and I, and we're not heavy. Not pets, no other gas-powered toys to carry or tow. Will take the camper off for big stretches and use as a quasi DD - a few days a week of light commuting, driving to the mountains on weekends, dump runs, etc. Want the truck to be good on FS roads - some on the shittier side like the road to S Climb on Adams, but no wheeling nonsense - and not ride like a basketball on the highway unloaded, but I'm not dumb enough to expect a Cadillac either (current rig is FJ Cruiser).

Yeah, I guess it's possible we'll hate the popup and want a much heavier hard-side or some shit, but I doubt it. We're not buying a boat. It's a remote possibility we'll want to tow snowmobiles at some point in the future I guess.

A Ram 2500 Hemi (crew/6'5" box) has a ~3k payload. That looks like plenty to me, and will ride better w/o load, which will be most of the time. F250 gasser (supercab/same box) is like 2,500k payload, and has rear leafs, so I assume will ride the same as a 350/3500 so why bother? If the 2500 will have any real limitations (would need a burlier sway bar, but maybe that's it?) then yeah, you just nut up and get a 3500 or 350. If not, the only reason to throw down for the 1-ton seems like future proofing/mechanical margin of error, yeah? Once we get into 1-tons, I can get all the gas v. diesel commentary elsewhere -.

So, no towing, no super crazy payloads (camper trips max) and plenty of non-laden driving. WWMD?

My experience:
Had a 2001 F250 (7.3 diesel) short box. ~3000 lb hard side slide in. Truck had timbrens for a bit, then airbags. With either, the truck kinda hated it - it was right at payload capacity. The timbrens were actually better at keeping the truck from swaying though.

Now have a 2016 F350 (6.7 diesel) long box. Same camper in it. Stock suspension with no added on helpers. Truck is reasonably happy with the camper in it. It'd be better with a sway bar, but that'd make it worse on dirt roads without the camper.

When unloaded, the 250 was much nicer on dirt roads. The 350 has stiffer suspension and it's definitely noticeable. It's not so bad that I avoid rough dirt roads or anything like that, but it's definitely not a super smooth ride. That said, going up dirt roads with the camper in it is generally fine, whereas the 250 was swaying all over the place.

Other notes: the 350 I currently have has 4 doors and an 8' bed, which means it's huge (also one of the reasons it's worse on dirt roads). But it isn't my daily driver. I use it when a truck is the appropriate vehicle for what I'm doing (which is fairly often). But I'm not usually taking the truck for a quick run to the grocery store or to go out to dinner. My conclusion is that having the huge truck is great, and it outweighs the disadvantages. Snowmobile in the bed? Easy. Full sheet of plywood in the bed with the tailgate closed? Yup. 10 people + 10 bikes for shuttle laps? Not a problem.

You're looking at a relatively light camper, so a 250 would probably be fine. But I think your choice really comes down to the camper - a hardside is definitely preferable in some situations. If you're fully confident you'd stick with the pop-up, then yeah, 3/4 ton makes more sense. But if you think you might get some hardside envy, you'll want a 1 ton.

[climberevan]

Ok, the prohibitives are both a problem for me now but good to know for the future. I guess the dickinson propane heater , that scout campers use, falls in that category as well.

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Chinese diesel heater FTW. $150 and an easy couple of hours to install and you're golden. Ours kept us nice and warm in the Winningbago when we visited you last year.

Honestly, now that these exist there is no reason to consider anything else.

[doebedoe]

Chinese diesel heater FTW. $150 and an easy couple of hours to install and you're golden. Ours kept us nice and warm in the Winningbago when we visited you last year.

Honestly, now that these exist there is no reason to consider anything else.

Example of what you used? I know people say "Chinese diesel heater" a lot but i'm suspicious of buying blindly off Amazon etc.

[climberevan]

They are pretty much all the same. Mine's a few years old now, so the random storefront I bought it from is probably no longer in existence. The only real differences are the controllers, and I'm not sure which of those is the current favorite.

There is a VERY active Facebook group for them, and they regularly talk about which sellers are more reliable at a given moment.

[Hopeless Sinner]

My experience:
snip......

You're looking at a relatively light camper, so a 250 would probably be fine. But I think your choice really comes down to the camper - a hardside is definitely preferable in some situations. If you're fully confident you'd stick with the pop-up, then yeah, 3/4 ton makes more sense. But if you think you might get some hardside envy, you'll want a 1 ton.

I'm only buying one truck to camp with and even though I want a pop-up(but not ultra light by any means) that may be suitable for many years or it might be a hassle and a glass hardside might be better, who knows. The truck would be strictly for dispersed camping on BLM/FS where the DRW and big top heavy hardside would be a handicap. And I need to pull my bass boat to the lake. The everyday ride isn't a concern for me. The 3500 SRW will cover all my needs although the DRW opens up a ton of bigger TC options.

[frorider]

That is amazingly light for fully loaded up with all gear, food, water, etc. What do those vans weigh if just an empty shell, no conversion into camper? Transit is unibody like a Sprinter, right?

Fullsize 3/4-ton truck weighs like 6000# empty, nothing in the bed. That's my basis for bench racing weights...

Yup. A decent 4WD truck is 6000 + lbs. My empty stock cargo van with a heavy Diesel engine weighed 5250 lbs as I recall. Of course it got heavier as I converted to F150-based 4WD, 32” tires, etc.

Commercial unibody vans are designed to have huge payloads and the towing capacity is not a focus at all (I think mine can only tow 7000 lbs ? Meanwhile there are plenty of heavy duty trucks that can tow the Titanic but barely have enough payload for 4 hunters and their coolers of bud light.

From an engr perspective a modern van is a more elegant solution than any HD truck + slide in camper, but the fucking Vanlifers have jacked up the prices to ridiculous levels so it’s a moot point.

[nonamenoneed]

Chinese diesel heater FTW. $150 and an easy couple of hours to install and you're golden. Ours kept us nice and warm in the Winningbago when we visited you last year.

Honestly, now that these exist there is no reason to consider anything else.

dry heat

[grinch]

Chinese diesel heater FTW. $150 and an easy couple of hours to install and you're golden. Ours kept us nice and warm in the Winningbago when we visited you last year.

Honestly, now that these exist there is no reason to consider anything else.

Interesting. That fits my pay grade. All our heated sign washers are lawn mower type gas engines to spray and little diesel heaters. I'd be curious too if someone finds a link

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[powdork]

How is a diesel heater not dry heat? Dries my stuff out toot sweet


And also, who knew



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[Trackhead]

I've got a diesel heater in my boat, and another in my camper. One in my boat is on all the damn time in Alaska, works flawlessly, quite awesome. Get one.

[bonewrenched]

And also, who knew



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They didn't make many of the 16' version. Quite the unicorns now.

[Flyoverland Captive]

Looks like the Burro mold.

[Danno]

I love the egg campers.

[frorider]

How is a diesel heater not dry heat? Dries my stuff out toot sweet

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Maybe dans1212 is confused & is thinking about non vented kerosene heaters?

The only complaints I hear about the super cheap Chinese diesels is noise and tuning for high altitude. But I think there are solutions ?

[altasnob]

Even with outside venting and a heat exchange I would assume a wood stove produces a drier heat than combusting diesel/gas/propane, which all produce water vapor as a byproduct of combustion (the best saunas are wood burning). But the diesel heater is certainly more dry than say a Mr. Buddy heater where the water vapor, and CO, all stay in the camper. I looked into a wood stove in my camper but decided it was just too niche and would be a pain in the ass when you just want a short quick shot of heat to take the edge off. If I was dead set on a wood stove in the camper, I would also get a diesel/gas/propane heater as well, although I thought we were trying to keep weight down.

[altasnob]

[m2711c]

wonder what the tongue weight on that thing is..... would hate to drop it.

[MegaStoke]

Even with outside venting and a heat exchange I would assume a wood stove produces a drier heat than combusting diesel/gas/propane, which all produce water vapor as a byproduct of combustion (the best saunas are wood burning). But the diesel heater is certainly more dry than say a Mr. Buddy heater where the water vapor, and CO, all stay in the camper. I looked into a wood stove in my camper but decided it was just too niche and would be a pain in the ass when you just want a short quick shot of heat to take the edge off. If I was dead set on a wood stove in the camper, I would also get a diesel/gas/propane heater as well, although I thought we were trying to keep weight down.

Incorrect. The exhaust gasses, and therefore all water vapor produced by combustion, are vented externally, adding zero water to the inside of the vehicle.