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09-30-2010, 10:56 PM #1Good-lookin' wool
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Stripping a cheapo frame - Advice needed
Maybe this should be in tech talk as I am not quite acclimated to Sprockets, so someone jong me if so....
Been wanting to get my brother a bike to ride to his favorite bar rather than driving there and I have been wanting to learn to wrench a bit more with little fear of fucking up a nice frame.
So, I picked up a low-end Motobecane roadbike. Sound and true, a little rust. I want to break it down and strip the frame and probably leave it that way, without repainting. I am assuming I cant get a decent chrome look and that it will be pale but I suppose I will find out. Maybe clearcoat after stripping? Or is that just to preserve it, and not add a shiny aesthetic?
What is the best way to strip this thing? I have read about prepping with oven cleaner? Using Aircraft Fiberglass Paint remover? Can I media blast this thing? Dremel the fuck out of it?
What say you guys?
Of course I chose a French bike to wrench on. Cant wait to pull out my hair looking for parts.
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09-30-2010, 11:23 PM #2
Not really an answer to your question, but I read about a clear coat the other day that is reflective like a road sign at night. Not a bad idea if he's riding home from the bar at 2am.
EDIT http://www.duplicolor.com/products/niteLites/Last edited by Wiilbert; 09-30-2010 at 11:36 PM.
Originally Posted by grrrr
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09-30-2010, 11:50 PM #3Good-lookin' wool
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10-01-2010, 05:28 AM #4
nitromors is your friend
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10-01-2010, 05:52 AM #5
I did the prep on a mt bike frame that I had powdercoated. I just brushed on some Jasco and then hit it with a power washer and the paint just blew off. You'll have to hit the tough spots a couple times but it's easy though messy. I remember reading a discussion of this a while back. After you strip it it's going to rust, and clear coat apparently doesn't seal the surface nearly as well as paint.
The powder job wasn't expensive after I did all the prep, around $60, though that's more than I'd put into a Motobecane, YMMV.
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10-01-2010, 08:12 AM #6Registered User
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Paint's the way to go, rather than clear coat. You'll be wanting to put a proper primer coat on there (especially on a steel frame) and then some proper paint.
There are some good threads on frame painting here. Have fun!
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10-01-2010, 08:21 AM #7
I used citristrip on an aluminum frame a number of years ago. Seemed to work fine, ymmv.
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10-01-2010, 08:33 AM #8Hucked to flat once
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I would find a powder coating shop in your area. They will probably charge $15-20 to corn or bead blast it.
The shop here has a minimum $75 to blast and coat but I've had them do enough different projects they usually put small parts in with a larger run belonging to someone else if I don't mind the color that run is.
But if you are doing el cheapo, I would get it blasted and then krylon it.
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10-01-2010, 11:40 AM #9Good-lookin' wool
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Thanks for the insights guys. I have a power washer and didnt really think about incorporating it but I suppose if I prep it and then blast it, that may work. There is a reputable powder-coater in the area but due to the cheapness of the frame, I may forgo that cost and get creative with some power tools and as Conundrum said, some krylon.
Any more suggestions on chemicals that worked for people are still very welcome.
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10-01-2010, 01:51 PM #10
I've never used a paint stripper that really worked well for frames with stubborn paint. The stripper would get about 80% of the paint off, but leave all the tough spots (i.e. welds, etc.). If its a crappy paint job to begin with, the stripper might be fine.
Like others have said, I've found the best way to strip is with a blaster. I've also heard that clear coats don't protect as well as paint, but I've clear coated steel frames and never noticed any significant problems. Whatever you do, make sure you clean the frame really well before you paint it (get any oils, fingerprints, etc off - use rubbing alcohol or something like that).
A paint idea: I've never tried it, but I've always thought about coating a frame in that rubberized paint that they use for tool handles. It'd probably take a couple coats, but it could look cool and be really durable. They sell the stuff in pints at HD/Lowes, etc.
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10-01-2010, 02:22 PM #11Good-lookin' wool
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10-01-2010, 03:04 PM #12
I used to have an old Motobecane roadbike...LOVED it! I found it was very well-balanced and quite light for it's vintage.
There are some industrial paint strippers out there, but they're pretty caustic to work with....you may just want to consider grinding away the paint with a strong drill grinding wire wheel. Make sure it's wire-brush wheel and not a flat disk that'll gouge the steel!!
That worked for me and didn't take long at all. Make sure you take all the components off before you grind, as the flakes will be a hassle to get out of the derailuer and such.
Sounds like a good project...and it also sounds like you're looking out for your bro and don't want to see him behind the wheel after an evening at the local pub.
I'm an aficiando of old bikes....you can save so much by buying used and rebuilding to your OWN specs and not rely on the dictates of some mammoth Hong Kong corporation...plus you can learn a lot in the process, always a good benefit.
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10-01-2010, 03:10 PM #13
I used some DupliColor Textured Metallic "ToolBox" paint on one of my motorcycles with pretty sweet results. It's fairly durable stuff.
Pre-stripping
Almost prepped
Self-etching primer
Finished paint
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10-01-2010, 03:23 PM #14Good-lookin' wool
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Alaskan, yeah I am stoked to have a project to undertake with my brother and one that will ultimately keep him off the road. He doesn't really have a problem with driving after drinks but I know he CERTAINLY won't if I get him hooked on biking around a bit more. I have a grinder with wire brush attachment that I may also use. I have an affinity for the vintage steel frames, and although this one is pretty heavy, it is nice and has some character.
Mr. Dirt, thanks for the pics. I would be stoked to have this thing end up looking like yours. Nicely done.
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10-01-2010, 03:47 PM #15
Using a brush on or spray on stripper is no big deal and will save you a ton of time. Just don't leave any exposed skin and you'll be fine. Use that wirewheel to clean up the welds where the stripper might not be as effective. I used a battery drill with an assortment of 1/4" hex drive wirewheels. I primed with a self etching primer because that frame was a bitch to get in all the nooks and crannies since I don't have a sandblaster, but if you do a good job prepping you can get away with using a much better epoxy primer.
I'm certainly no painting expert. That frame is the first one I've ever re-done. The beauty of those textured paints is that it's pretty damn hard to make them look bad. Just don't overspray and you can do no wrong.
This is the stuff.
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10-04-2010, 02:58 AM #16
Whatever you do, don't fucking paint that thing in reflective paint. Jesus. Drunk drivers are attracted to bright things(ie, studies related to cop's lights). And, for the record, I think sandblasting would be your best option.
"Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"
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