SF Surf Maggots

[QuikR12]

Big NW swell coming in today through this week. Calling for 10 ft this afternoon. consistent sets should clean up with outgoing tide.

[supermodel159]

I love these pre-season macking NW swells. They help you remember what a wave is like after surfing 2-3' summer slop.

[Ottime]

Pretty jumbled swell this morning. Word is Saturday was real good at 'chokes. Raw, but with the most size in months. String is looking good for the near future.

Dweebs are calling for a Santa Ana forming...

[QuikR12]

Saturday was good, better than Sunday.

surfed N OB both days. Saturday was a shoulder/head high day, decent intervals with occasional clean headhigh + outside sets.

Sunday was frustrating. Big, but inconsistent and sloppy like two different swells, a NW ground and a West wind coming together. Intervals were short, 11 seconds or less, and big waves were often doubled up on each other. Tops tabled off and mushed out, and lack of consistency had you chasing peaks all day. Getting used to the OB wave took a little getting used to, as I got pummeled on a couple of occasions, one leaving a nice fin gash on the thigh of my wetsuit and a matching bruise this morning.

There was a nice window of clean windless swell hitting the break around 6:00, but after getting beat for the 4 hours prior I was already out, clean, and watching it with envy, and some chicks, from a bonfire.

Good days all around

[end/blog]

[Long duc dong]

I love these pre-season macking NW swells. They help you remember what a wave is like after surfing 2-3' summer slop.

Reminds me of Santa Barbara in the summer. Waist high Sands, maybe slightly bigger sometimes. We used to go down to Ventura or Malibu a lot during summer school.

One of the nice things about Orange County is that we do get some big days in the summer.

[Ottime]

One of the nice things about Orange County is that we do get some big days in the summer.

You mean, big-for-Orange-County big. Right?

I mean, can you even compare a 4.5'@20 to a 15'@25sec? They are totally different beasts. The first can give you some fun big waves, but they are still hot dog waves. The latter is just dangerous.

The other big difference, IMHO, between SPAC and NPAC swells is the amount of water moving. Due to proximity, the winter is just thick, consistent and heavy. Never had that experience with S swells, any where in California.

Regardless, it is good to see the NPAC stirring awake.

[Hugh Conway]

lulz.... people can surf holding a line off ventura pier with the amount of water moving and gumbies get sucked into it from the c-street

[supermodel159]

Reminds me of Santa Barbara in the summer. Waist high Sands, maybe slightly bigger sometimes. We used to go down to Ventura or Malibu a lot during summer school.

One of the nice things about Orange County is that we do get some big days in the summer.

Good call, that's were I live. I usually head north for the souths....

Even though we are headed into La Nina, hopefully these winter storm systems keep tracking through.

[Superstar Punani]

S OB was fun this evening. Solid 6-8' with bigger cleanup sets. Only 7 of us out. I love the brutal paddle which weeds out the crowds. 6'6" step up was redlining on some of the drops.

Sun was crap. Sat was fun at XXXXXXXXX with macking lefts all to myself.

[Long duc dong]

You mean, big-for-Orange-County big. Right?

I mean, can you even compare a 4.5'@20 to a 15'@25sec? They are totally different beasts. The first can give you some fun big waves, but they are still hot dog waves. The latter is just dangerous.

The other big difference, IMHO, between SPAC and NPAC swells is the amount of water moving. Due to proximity, the winter is just thick, consistent and heavy. Never had that experience with S swells, any where in California.

Regardless, it is good to see the NPAC stirring awake.

Yeah, I mean OC big. A few feet overhead to 2x is big for us. We get that from time to time in the summer. I actually think the Orange County summer surf is as good as the winter, maybe better. The stuff we get in the winter is no bigger usually. Most of the biggest OC surf I have seen is summer stuff, not winter. We are lucky that way. We are several hundred miles south of you, so we are much closer to the south swell energy. We get it both in the summer and winter, just not with quite the force of Norcal.

Yesterday was supposedly great, with some nice combo action for the OC beachbreaks. I could not get out early enough, but some of my outside sales buddies had some fun. The water is warm again too, which is nice. Surfing in high 50's water in August is just weird for OC.

[BS720]

Fire was responding to Kelly's tonight around 1800. Rumor was it was a surfer. I drove by the beach about 30 minutes before that and it looked pretty nasty. Hard to imagine anyone out there with it as bad as it was.

[Ottime]

This morning had some size. Clean(ish). Lots of paddling. Lots of dodging sets. Some boards ditched (missed the dodge). A few heroic duck dives. And a few sizable waves ridden.

[Ottime]

Chokes was fun, and empty this morning. A cover of fog, glassy lined up ledges a few feet overhead. Fun.

Pt. Reyes bouy is now showing 8'@20sec from 300^. This next round is already beginning to show. The morning should be very good. Find your NW long period spot. Not huge, but fun sized.

[Long duc dong]

Thursday morning did the dawn patrol/get to the office a bit late. Got Huntington really good. It was about head high, crossed up swell, so nice and peaky. Really fun, glassy, reminds me of why I sometimes love OC beachbreaks. Most peaks had both a right and a left, with a nice wall following a perfect take off. The water was nice, probably 66 or 67.

[COUSINELVIS]

Pretty jumbled swell this morning. Word is Saturday was real good at 'chokes. Raw, but with the most size in months. String is looking good for the near future.

Dweebs are calling for a Santa Ana forming...

HEY CARPETBAGER FOR YOU OR ANYBODY ELSE THAT WANTS TO APPLY NORTHERN CALIFORNIA LOCAL CARD WE DONT SAY SANTA ANA UP HERE

ITS JUST GOOD OLD NORTHEAST WINDS

[COUSINELVIS]

Yeah, I mean OC big. A few feet overhead to 2x is big for us. We get that from time to time in the summer. I actually think the Orange County summer surf is as good as the winter, maybe better. The stuff we get in the winter is no bigger usually. Most of the biggest OC surf I have seen is summer stuff, not winter. We are lucky that way. We are several hundred miles south of you, so we are much closer to the south swell energy. We get it both in the summer and winter, just not with quite the force of Norcal.

Yesterday was supposedly great, with some nice combo action for the OC beachbreaks. I could not get out early enough, but some of my outside sales buddies had some fun. The water is warm again too, which is nice. Surfing in high 50's water in August is just weird for OC.

QUALITY OVER QUANTITY

I SPENT MY WHOLE LIFE UP HERE, AND WHILE THE SWELLS WE GET SATISFY YOUR INNER SIZE QUEEN, THE QUALITY INSIDE PC AND THE CHANNEL SATISIFIES THE NEED FOR GREAT SURF

THE QUALITY SPOTS THAT WE DO HAVE UP HERE HAVE BECOME SO OVERUN ITS NOT WORTH IT YOUR BETTER OFF DOWN THERE THE CROWDS ARE LESS CUTTHROAT FOR THE MOST PART.

GIVE ME A FEW DAYS OFF AND READINGS FROM 300 AND 20 SEC INTERVALS AND IM POINTING IT DOWN SOUTH

[BS720]

CousinE, there's a caps lock on your keyboard. Learn to use it. Also, may I suggest some light reading?

[QuikR12]

CousinE, there's a caps lock on your keyboard. Learn to use it. Also, may I suggest some light reading?

excellent suggestion.

May I add a few more?

[Ottime]

HEY CARPETBAGER FOR YOU OR ANYBODY ELSE THAT WANTS TO APPLY NORTHERN CALIFORNIA LOCAL CARD WE DONT SAY SANTA ANA UP HERE

ITS JUST GOOD OLD NORTHEAST WINDS

Um, no need for any card.

And I yes, the Santa Ana is a reference to a SoCal forecast. Sorry to upset ya.

And, as for crowds and quality - you are just looking in the wrong places, local. There is plenty to go around just around the corner from the parking lot. Just have to think for your self.

Surfed this morning with five others in some quality over head plus waves. Yup, it was good. Even got a few of those barrel things.

[COUSINELVIS]

CousinE, there's a caps lock on your keyboard. Learn to use it. Also, may I suggest some light reading?

thanks cousin bs, your suggestions have been taken under advisement

youve helped out so much i want to return the favor

the pic that is a hit on your personals profile isnt necessarily going to have the same effect everywhere else. in other words. manzeer mr saggy

[COUSINELVIS]

Um, no need for any card.

And I yes, the Santa Ana is a reference to a SoCal forecast. Sorry to upset ya.

And, as for crowds and quality - you are just looking in the wrong places, local. There is plenty to go around just around the corner from the parking lot. Just have to think for your self.

Surfed this morning with five others in some quality over head plus waves. Yup, it was good. Even got a few of those barrel things.

thx 4 the tips ottime

i hope i find all them cool spots so i can drop cool cryptic names like "chokes" too, thatd be awesome

im glad your enjoying time out here so far. you moved herefrom somewhere else maybe b/c you got tired of it there. i got tired of ice cream headaches, maxed out conditions and dirty hippies after about 40 years or so

spend the summer at a classic cobblestone point in boardshorts or a pinwheeling winter perfection in short sleeves if you wanna relate

[Ottime]

This morning was fun. Super glassy, a bit over head and hollow. 3 folks on it.

CE, Yes I did move from somewhere, and do like the surf here better. Often. I do miss a perfect hurricane swell every so often.

Sure, it be nice to spend a summer at a classic cobblestone point in boardshorts. Who doesn't like warm water and fun surf?

But, I do prefer it up here. I do prefer the regularity of having more size. I don't get into the big stuff much any more, but it is rare to find the 10-15' faces i prefer surfing in SoCal. Just is. Doesn't make it bad or wrong. Some folks prefer the 4-8' range.

But to claim that you can't find uncrowded quality surf on the central coast is just silly. There are so many great surf locales. Not many of them look like Rincon or Trestles, but neither do the all the breaks down south.

Sorry I did not drop a more obvious name, but we kind of have an unwritten rule about posting too much information on the web. It helps with keeping the crowds at bay.

[Long duc dong]

Yesterday was really fun. I went to the office a few hours early, and left at 1 to go down to Trestles. I surfed the Cottons/Barbedwires area for 3 hours, and it was great. Head high, occasionally a foot or two overhead, a bit of wind bump but not too much. The water was warm too. Some of my buddies dawn patrolled Huntington and said it was great.

[Ottime]

^^^Not warm up here this morning. Chilly water and chilly air.

Okay, I guess the water was not that bad, but still chilly.

Hope to get a few tomorrow as well, but I bet the word will get out.

And has anyone looked at the 10 day charts? We may be getting another round of solid NW.

[supermodel159]

Water is the warmest its been all year down here (or least earlier this week). 65 degrees...yes please.