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  1. #4801
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    9,185
    Okay. I see what you are doing there. You are being positive.

    Me, not so much. It is November. November is the month you can surf every damn day, and it might never drop below shoulder high and the wind never blows so it is oil glass at two in the afternoon. Except this November. It is flat. Flat enough that even Rog would call it flat. Okay, maybe not Rog. But everyone else.

    I recall a November 20 years ago. I was between jobs and out searching for one. Surfed every damn day. Twice on most days. When I'd get an interview, I'd set it up so it would not fuck with my schedule. The main break I was surfing is best from 2-5 feet of tide. I'd be on the phone, with HR, looking at my tide log, just to make sure I wasn't going to miss anything. Cause every damn day was good, and most were cranking. Shoulder high days I considered taking off to rest, but powered through to see how many days in a row I could surf. Good days were 6-10' and the few big days required the 8'4" gun. That is November.

    This year I'm looking at a July. And no snow is sight. Guess I too will be working the next few days. Or weeks. Well, shit does got to get done.

  2. #4802
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,561
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Okay. I see what you are doing there. You are being positive.


    .
    Definitely being positive. I get what you are saying about November where you are, for us it is different. November is good, but it is not all THAT good, our surf does not vary as much from season to season as yours does. I went to school at UCSB, and basically all summer you were either surfing thigh high windswell, which can be fun on a funshape, or going to Ventura or Jalama or northern Malibu. It simply did not get over head high in the summer in SB unless it was a seriously freak occurrence. I know you guys get lots of surf in the summer, but from what I understand you get more in the fall and winter. There are plenty of years where Jully is better than November down here, and that is not surprising. For you guys that would be really weird.

    The Orange County area is incredibly consistent. Consistently mediocre some might say, and they are right, but you really can surf almost every day here. The next couple of days are dead flat, and it has been a very consistent all summer and fall. In fact, I have grown used to being able to get chest high+ days whenever I want them. With the next couple of days being flat, being able to go out and have fun sounds good. It won't be epic, I was not expecting that, but I just want to be able to go out and surf fun waves. Like I said, I am not going to KILL myself to get a full day Trestles session on Friday, which I would if a big SW was coming and it was going to be 4-6, but it will be nice to get out.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  3. #4803
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    9,185
    I was feeling positive. Things were looking up. I don't care at al about S swells this time of year. This next one will be fun enough in town, but I want the juice. W-N swells are just way more powerful, consistent and raw compared to the S-SW. I think we are just a bit closer, but way more exposed to the NW. Fall up here can be prime, as swells become more raw, on average, through winter. Drought years were great. That RRR allowed us to get large swells with really clean, organized conditions. Huge swells were more rare in those years, but consistent large, clean swells were common. I remember way too may 12-15' plus crisp days, with a few of the best 20' days of my life. And it was 70-80F to boot.

  4. #4804
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,561
    Got in a midday session at south hb pier today. Shoulder high+ with a bit of wind bump, but some good shape. I had a few REALLY fun ones. The biggest issue was that the current was insane. You would get in around tower 5 and just get dragged north towards the pier. After a little while I just stopped fighting it, I would just get back out when I got close to the pier and run back to tower 5. I think I did 3-4 of those loops.

    The water is still nice, I wore a spring.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  5. #4805
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,364
    October and November have been really fun for me in Ory'gon. We've had consistent shoulder to head + and a steady dose of offshore. Sunday in Pac City was particularly good. Loving the 6'4" Greedy Beaver I picked up in September.

  6. #4806
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    9,185
    Today.

    Wednesday was also pretty killer. But today was solid. Some real beasts out there at the slab. Not sure how much more that reef could have handled with the angle. Only 3-4í OH, so not huge, but they were thick and fast.

    Scotts looked really fun as well, but being part of a crowd of 3-5 seemed way better than joining the 30+ stretch out along the Scotts peak zone.

    Tomorrow has promise.

    Better news is that the NPAC is open for business.

  7. #4807
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,364
    https://youtu.be/Hhs0l9_2byU FKNA!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using TGR Forums mobile app

  8. #4808
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    That is insane as that things unloads. And I thought it felt solid yesterday.

  9. #4809
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,561
    It ended up being another fun, but not epic weekend here.

    I surfed both Saturday and Sunday south of the HB pier. 2.5 hour sessions both times, in the water between 930 and 10. It was a bit soft, but still shoulder high and fun when they would line up. By mid-day the high tide was killing it, but it was still a blast before that. The crowd was reasonably spread out, which was nice. I have finally thrown in the towel on the spring suit, I wore my 3/2 this weekend.

    On Sunday I actually stepped on a singray, or brushed up against one. I don't think the barb went in, but there is a mark and it was a bit itchy yesterday. That is my first time for that. I heard from people on the beach that a bunch of people got stung, so be aware of that if you are in HB.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  10. #4810
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,364
    As they say in South Park, it's on.

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  11. #4811
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
    Posts
    12,078
    You must be north of Point Conception as down in San Diego, it has been the bleakest for the last 2 months I can remember. And today looked waist high.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  12. #4812
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    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    DOH plus, crisp and clean up here at west facing breaks. Better spots in are well OH from what Iíve been told. Some of this must be able to filter in down there.

    Yesterday afternoon and this morning were fucking fabulous. Wu power.

  13. #4813
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    getting warmer...
    Posts
    401
    Swell showed up this morning with a lot more to it than expected. The point was a huge mess with a run blocking off roads and taking over all the parking at the fairgrounds. So tons of people on the boardwalk but hardly any surfers first thing due to the chaos.

    Cue the solid sets reeling down the point. High tide and sideshore/offshore winds made it a bit wild but wow the size and quality were there like I havent seen since last winter. It was supposed to show up around chest high, but sets were plentiful and well overhead. Not a longboard day.

    Paddled into a gem, big clean wall racing down the line. Sunrise is straight in my face so I keep getting blinded, like faceshots on snow, then seeing my line for a moment. It started getting real steep and I wanted to high line it past the section but with the sun I couldn't tell, freaked that it was gonna pitch and throw me, and hooked off the back to safety. Still not sure that was the right call, but wow it felt good to have decisions like that to make again.

    Rincon was nice this past week. Enough swell at the right angle to get it going, but not enough to entice every last soul in the region.

    Stoked on surfing! Stay active Pacific!

  14. #4814
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,223
    Fuck, fuck, fuck. I just saw a sticky in the padded room where HotTate has succumbed to rectal cancer. I enjoyed his content, and his positive attitude. FKNA.

  15. #4815
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
    Posts
    12,078
    I know So Cal doesn't deliver on surf like up north, but when October through early December look like this, it is tough to complain. I hope HT caught it early.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  16. #4816
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,364
    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    You must be north of Point Conception as down in San Diego, it has been the bleakest for the last 2 months I can remember. And today looked waist high.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Oh yeah, I'm north of Point Conception...way North up in Oregon. Last Thursday was great, super clean midsized waves. But by the weekend it just became a mess if white water mostly. A friend tried surfing Saturday but reported he couldn't make it out the back....and dude recently ran a 2h 50m marathon. Hoping to get a pre-turkey session in this week.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using TGR Forums mobile app

  17. #4817
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    9,185
    Friday here was epic proportions of sickness. Surf ranges from OH to DOH and crisp. Such a sick afternoon session. Especially considering we had south winds, rib chop and wind swell before noon.

    Saturday and Sunday were super fun, but not as crisp and perfect as Friday afternoon. Still got some real bombs the past few days.

    I love this area. Town liked fun but we have such good breaks for the juice just west and north of town that get hit straight with the power.

    Iíve been surfing a ledge reef that kind of loses its channel at this size. It just explodes across the reef. Loving that Iím still in the game at my late age.

    Finally got some
    Beat downs on Sunday. After an hour on my 6í7Ē pin tail mini mini gun, I decided to switch it up with the performance 6í0Ē. Got some killer waves on that small board. Also took some of my heaviest beat downs so far this season. Ended up slicing the back of my wrist across the reef after stumbling on a bomb, landing on the face, sliding across it right next to my board just as the lip crushed me down and under into the jet propeller (it was more than a washing machine) pushing me into and dragging me along the reef. Ended up with two pin hole dings to boot. Recovered, got out the sort of channel and saw my slice. Paddles back into the reef to catch a smaller on in. Called it a day.

    NW kick back up today bringing the festivities back into town.

    Love love love this season.

    Love the feeling of sitting on a cliff, suiting up and wondering if Iíve got the balls on that given day to make the most out of the power. Love being just a little scared.

    Man the left I got coming I. Saturday was ducking all time for that reef. Best left in years. DOH, full barrel coming across the reef, and then peeled hard for 75 yards. So fast and fun.

    Looking out the window, fog just filled into town. Wtf. If

  18. #4818
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,364
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Friday here was epic proportions of sickness. Surf ranges from OH to DOH and crisp. Such a sick afternoon session. Especially considering we had south winds, rib chop and wind swell before noon.

    Saturday and Sunday were super fun, but not as crisp and perfect as Friday afternoon. Still got some real bombs the past few days.

    I love this area. Town liked fun but we have such good breaks for the juice just west and north of town that get hit straight with the power.

    Iíve been surfing a ledge reef that kind of loses its channel at this size. It just explodes across the reef. Loving that Iím still in the game at my late age.

    Finally got some
    Beat downs on Sunday. After an hour on my 6í7Ē pin tail mini mini gun, I decided to switch it up with the performance 6í0Ē. Got some killer waves on that small board. Also took some of my heaviest beat downs so far this season. Ended up slicing the back of my wrist across the reef after stumbling on a bomb, landing on the face, sliding across it right next to my board just as the lip crushed me down and under into the jet propeller (it was more than a washing machine) pushing me into and dragging me along the reef. Ended up with two pin hole dings to boot. Recovered, got out the sort of channel and saw my slice. Paddles back into the reef to catch a smaller on in. Called it a day.

    NW kick back up today bringing the festivities back into town.

    Love love love this season.

    Love the feeling of sitting on a cliff, suiting up and wondering if Iíve got the balls on that given day to make the most out of the power. Love being just a little scared.

    Man the left I got coming I. Saturday was ducking all time for that reef. Best left in years. DOH, full barrel coming across the reef, and then peeled hard for 75 yards. So fast and fun.

    Looking out the window, fog just filled into town. Wtf. If
    FKNA!

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using TGR Forums mobile app

  19. #4819
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    9,185
    Dislocated my shoulder doing yard work. Popped back in, but think Iím out for a bit. Bummer as that sea surface has looked really nice the past two days. Hopefully I can back at it after a weeks rest. Or maybe it is just ski season for me now.

  20. #4820
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    4,458
    Man, you have to wonder if your shoulder was a wee bit tweaked from surfing and the yard work was the tipping point.

  21. #4821
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
    Posts
    12,078
    ^^^^ Yup, confused as to what yard work you were doing to dislocate a shoulder. It must of been fucked already, but I hope you heal up quick.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  22. #4822
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    9,185
    I was transporting a full 5 gallon bucket of water. Slipped on a terrace and fell with that weight in my hand.

    Feeling better already. But not surfing better. Might have been a partial dislocation, as it popped back in on its own after 10 minutes and with me just aligning it right while sitting in the passenger seat on her way to urgent care. But holy fuck that thing hurt for those ten minutes.

    Now just sore and weak as fuck. I see the ortho Thursday for further prognoses.

  23. #4823
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    767
    you're fucked.... it will keep popping out till you have surgery.

  24. #4824
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    PDX
    Posts
    2,364
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    I was transporting a full 5 gallon bucket of water. Slipped on a terrace and fell with that weight in my hand.

    Feeling better already. But not surfing better. Might have been a partial dislocation, as it popped back in on its own after 10 minutes and with me just aligning it right while sitting in the passenger seat on her way to urgent care. But holy fuck that thing hurt for those ten minutes.

    Now just sore and weak as fuck. I see the ortho Thursday for further prognoses.
    Dang mang. Good luck with that.

    First place I went yesterday was rough. Tons of white water. Paddled most of the day for like 5 waces. Second place I went though was pristine. Lots of the waves were even better than this one.

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  25. #4825
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    That looks nice.

    Doc says Iím good to go. Cleared to surf and ski. Likely wonít pop back out due to my age. Sometimes being old is good.

    Stormy right now. Iíll wait for things to clean up. Maybe Tuesday. And get back in the water.

    At least the snow has piled up and I can go ski.

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