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  1. #4476
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    Aug 2006
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    Headed down to Cabo 7/3, stayed right above Monuments @ Sunrock Condo Hotel. Wife is minding the budget, and it looked pretty clean. Hell, $1,300 for two for flight and hotel 7 nights ain't shabby.

    Traces left of the 'caine swell, but we didn't take many pictures. Shipwrecks in the first two pics, then a Brazilian dropped in on me on a set wave at Zippers. I was basically on top of him and straightened out into the rocks to keep from killing him. My joke when I came in was I couldn't leave Mexico without a little color.

    The last night of the trip was my big 4-0, and had friends arrive that afternoon. Pretty much one big blur after we left their resort.

    I know a lot of people have been talking about how bad Mexico is, and Cabo is included. I just want to say that I never, ever felt uneasy or in any danger. We approached the cops several times, I drove carefully and we had no problems. Wife is seven months prego, and she felt totally safe as well. East Cape, everyone was friendly and we only saw families at the beach and surfers. No police presence on the Cape, but also nobody else. The one night the wife and I went out, we kept it tame. I did get offered blow somewhere between 15-20 times. It got to the point where we'd start laughing because it was ridiculous. I did read somewhere online some nondescript warning to tourists about if you're looking for trouble, trouble will find you, or some veiled warning about coke. I wasn't interested, but the wife did manage to snap a pic or two of me in the middle of the sales pitch. I won't post those here.

    All in all, sick trip right before my daughter arrives, good waves, awesome water temp, incredible food, only super crowded area was Old Man's. Go!!Name:  FB_IMG_1531107249805.jpeg
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    Sent from my ZTE A2017U using TGR Forums mobile app
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  2. #4477
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    8,277
    Sounds like a fun trip.

    Just arrived in Paris. Sunday will be interesting.

    And it looks like there might even be a rogue summer swell as Chris recurves across the Atlantic.

    Santa Cruz was fun this past week. Winds were in play, so mostly spent my time long boarding the point. Fun shoulder plus waves and little crowd, except for the shit show that was my session Monday. The summer crowd is potentially in full swing with the bar gone at Cowells. Locals, long boarders, tourist and beginners all at the same spot can create quite the traffic jam. Made me happy to skip town for a month this summer. Although, my Tuesday morning session was sublime. So, go figure.

  3. #4478
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    The Wilds of Maine
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    2,530
    Two days of surf in the past week is a minor miracle for July in New England. Glassy, super fun morning. Got a little fooled by the 1.3 ft @ 13 secs forecast in thinking it'd be head high, got waist/stomach instead, but still super fun. Need to remember to bring the 8'0" foamie this time of year though!
    "We're in the eye of a shiticane here Julian, and Ricky's a low shit system!" - Jim Lahey, RIP

    Former Managing Editor @ TGR, forever mag.

  4. #4479
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    8,277
    Did ya get brushed by Chris? Iím on the other side of the pond hoping to get a little.

    1.3@13 would typically show as 1.7 foot waves at exposed breaks. And very few breaks in Maine are exposed. So, unless you are really short, about knee to thigh high.

    Swell Height * Period = wave height.

    Bathymetry plays a role here, and can help pump up or diminish waves as much as shadowing or focusing. That is why the wave at O is significantly bigger when breaking off the (or near) the rocks as opposed to waves that break 400 yards north. With a south swell, it would seem that the less shadowed area to the north would be bigger. But the sea bottom contours make the wave bigger in the more shadowed zone.

  5. #4480
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    The Wilds of Maine
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Did ya get brushed by Chris? Iím on the other side of the pond hoping to get a little.

    1.3@13 would typically show as 1.7 foot waves at exposed breaks. And very few breaks in Maine are exposed. So, unless you are really short, about knee to thigh high.

    Swell Height * Period = wave height.

    Bathymetry plays a role here, and can help pump up or diminish waves as much as shadowing or focusing. That is why the wave at O is significantly bigger when breaking off the (or near) the rocks as opposed to waves that break 400 yards north. With a south swell, it would seem that the less shadowed area to the north would be bigger. But the sea bottom contours make the wave bigger in the more shadowed zone.
    We did! Super fun bump. I've got a little notebook from most of.my sessions up here and we had one day last fall with a 1.5 feet at 12 seconds forecast and it was overhead and perfect. But I didn't check the buoys to get the actual swell from that day. Looks like a pass of short period swell early next week as well. I'm astonished anytime you can get on any kind of board and wave this time.of.year.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using TGR Forums mobile app
    "We're in the eye of a shiticane here Julian, and Ricky's a low shit system!" - Jim Lahey, RIP

    Former Managing Editor @ TGR, forever mag.

  6. #4481
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Out to sea
    Posts
    354
    Good Maine bump. Came in bigger than expected. "shoulda got there earlier". little texture in the evening from some longish period waves. Wanted to get on the fish but the log was the preferred vehicle of choice. Any waist high waves in July is ideal!

  7. #4482
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,368
    Congrats on the baby coming!

    Head high but a bit walled in Newport today. The water is in the low 70's.

  8. #4483
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    Quote Originally Posted by WaistDeepGroomers View Post
    We did! Super fun bump. I've got a little notebook from most of.my sessions up here and we had one day last fall with a 1.5 feet at 12 seconds forecast and it was overhead and perfect. But I didn't check the buoys to get the actual swell from that day. Looks like a pass of short period swell early next week as well. I'm astonished anytime you can get on any kind of board and wave this time.of.year.

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using TGR Forums mobile app
    Had to be more than a single 1.5@12. But, it is possible to combo up several small swells into bigger waves. Just not overly likely. Buoy readings may show 1.5@12, when there are several different small swells in the water. If angles are complimentary, it can boost the wave height. Adding two or three small swells (that alone would produce thigh high surf) can, at times, create much larger surf.

    Also, most buoys only report the swell producing the most energy. If the 12s swell is locally produced and very consistent, it would show on the buoy instead of a 3@15 swell that was inconsistent and pushing less energy per time period. Combo a 3@15 with a 1.5@12, and the surf could be pushing up to head high.

    Of course, combo swells can also diminish wave heights. And at other times, buoy readings can look much higher than what surf one gets. Often due to shadowing. But at times they just get confused.

    For instance, you could have a 6í@6s and a .7í@15s in the water. Assume you are shadowed from both. The 6s wonít wrap in, but the 15s will. It will lose size, so the beach sees some 6Ē lines. But the buoy reads the swell height from the wind swell and the period from the ground swell and shows 6@15 or combos the height and averages the period showing 6.7@11. Both of those one would assume chest to head plus at the beach.

    On the pacific coast, the CDIP and spectral buoys are by far the best. The spectral will show you where each bit of energy is coming from. Not sure if those are available on the Atlantic. Perhaps because you are not as likely to have multiple swells in the water. Out west, it is rare to have just a single swell in the water, and typically there are three or more at any given time.

    Gonna be out that way in a week plus. Hope to see enough for a log session.

  9. #4484
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    2,368
    Shoulder high+ and okay yesterday at uppers. The water is super warm.

    How is France Ott? Nuts I would imagine.

  10. #4485
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Out to sea
    Posts
    354
    Any recs for Bocas or Puerto Viejo in CR? Heading down tomorrow for two weeks. Non surf trip, and done some surf research, but hoping to get a few waves.

  11. #4486
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
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    Thanks LDD!

    Bad time of the year for Bocas. Others may chime in, but Bocas is typically December to April. On the other hand, if you want smaller waves, it may be the right time. Puerto Viejo I can't speak to, just be careful there.

  12. #4487
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    Jun 2007
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    Cruzing
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    Shoulder high+ and okay yesterday at uppers. The water is super warm.

    How is France Ott? Nuts I would imagine.
    Nuts.

    Bastille Day followed by yesterday. What a weekend for this country.

    And the forecast is for a 1.7-2m@15 for tomorrow into Wednesday. And offshore through mid day. And I found real surfboard to rent from Max. Good times.

  13. #4488
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    Anyone else get some today...?

    Quote Originally Posted by alev View Post
    Any recs for Bocas or Puerto Viejo in CR? Heading down tomorrow for two weeks. Non surf trip, and done some surf research, but hoping to get a few waves.
    PV has a great reef break when there is swell. It can be flat flat flat, then pumping, then flat. Pretty tight reef slab take off zone, and it can get crowded.

    I donít know if any other waves in that area, but I could see the advantage of finding a beach break if available. While the reef is a great wave, it can be like a busy day at Lowers. Some like that, but crowds bother me.

    And what bs720 said. Some sketch folks in that area. Lots of coke heads and a few pirates.

  14. #4489
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    The Wilds of Maine
    Posts
    2,530
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Had to be more than a single 1.5@12. But, it is possible to combo up several small swells into bigger waves. Just not overly likely. Buoy readings may show 1.5@12, when there are several different small swells in the water. If angles are complimentary, it can boost the wave height. Adding two or three small swells (that alone would produce thigh high surf) can, at times, create much larger surf.

    Also, most buoys only report the swell producing the most energy. If the 12s swell is locally produced and very consistent, it would show on the buoy instead of a 3@15 swell that was inconsistent and pushing less energy per time period. Combo a 3@15 with a 1.5@12, and the surf could be pushing up to head high.

    Of course, combo swells can also diminish wave heights. And at other times, buoy readings can look much higher than what surf one gets. Often due to shadowing. But at times they just get confused.

    For instance, you could have a 6í@6s and a .7í@15s in the water. Assume you are shadowed from both. The 6s wonít wrap in, but the 15s will. It will lose size, so the beach sees some 6Ē lines. But the buoy reads the swell height from the wind swell and the period from the ground swell and shows 6@15 or combos the height and averages the period showing 6.7@11. Both of those one would assume chest to head plus at the beach.

    On the pacific coast, the CDIP and spectral buoys are by far the best. The spectral will show you where each bit of energy is coming from. Not sure if those are available on the Atlantic. Perhaps because you are not as likely to have multiple swells in the water. Out west, it is rare to have just a single swell in the water, and typically there are three or more at any given time.

    Gonna be out that way in a week plus. Hope to see enough for a log session.
    Oh god, don't make me feel like I understand even less about forecast in! [Puts head in sand]. Some fantastic logging the past two nights. So much goddamn fun! I need to quit this shortboard obsession until we get some 'cane swell. Hoping our recent trend of surfable waves continues for ya!

    Sent from my Nexus 5X using TGR Forums mobile app
    "We're in the eye of a shiticane here Julian, and Ricky's a low shit system!" - Jim Lahey, RIP

    Former Managing Editor @ TGR, forever mag.

  15. #4490
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
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    I love getting out on the log when things are micro. I see no point in groveling in small surf, when I can have way more fun getting a shit ton of waves just cruising.


    It takes decades to get it right half the time from the buoys.

    Donít get me started on summer south swells in Santa Cruz, and how hard it is to use buoy readings to determine the surf.

    Surfed this morning at Place Horizons. Swell from regents of Chris. It hit pretty hard yesterday, but when I looked at the flags around 7am, it was already onshore. Turns out it went offshore from 9-11am. I got to the beach in the afternoon, w/o a board and saw solid lines even with the moderate cross on shore. Got some body surfing in, but no board.

    Walrus, in Cap Ferret rents actual epoxy board, so I picked on up just before they closed at 7pm. I wanted to get a sunset surf, but dinner w the family went a bit late, so I saved it for the morning.

    Swell was solid at 6am. Winds we blowing pretty hard cross off shore. Head high to a little overhead, 11-12s period. Winds slowly turned straight off shore and lightened as the swell dropped. At noon I called it. Still chest high with occasional bigger set. Pretty clean and lined up. Super fun to get a real surf session while on a non surf trip.

    Might take the boy out on a soft top long board in the morning. Expecting it to have dropped to knee to waist high. Kind of my favorite size to talk about.

    Iíll be in Maine in ten days. Hope to get out there as well.

    Surfed a Mod Pod (??) today. Any of you looks know your model boards? I found the AM to be a bit corky in the tail. It was great in the flats, but did not want to drive off the tail for me. Just wanted to skid.

    I know I could get used to it, but does anyone know of a similar board that has less foam, and more bite, in the tail?

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