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  1. #5451
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Nice bali pics. I liked balangan back in the day. I only surfed Temples because ulus has always been crowded. I don't know about 99 when I was on bali as a young tourist in my pre Internet days. I followed the printed guide to "where the surfers are", had started body Boarding the year before in waist high Euro beach breaks and thought paddling out was a good idea.

    I was brave, but didn't have time to count because I was busy with not drowning at high tide. Fun times. I climbed back on the cliff wall towards the cave.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #5452
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    59715
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    5,015
    https://www.ksbw.com/article/santa-c...board/41300201

    Can sympathize, sea otters are fucking monsters IMO. One time out at Pleasure point, a massive silvertip cruised by the lineup hauling a very dead smaller otter with him. I'm not kidding, this otter had Charlie Manson eyes and everyone in the lineup looked around like holy shit.

    If you haven't read about sea otters and their fucked up ways, I recommend it.

  3. #5453
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,105
    Ott,

    Great shots!!

    Ulus would probably my dream wave, if I was a bit better than I am. I might try it on a smaller day.

    It sucks to hear about the crowds there, but that is not altogether surprising.

    I wonder how many of the people with the 'herd paddle' mentality live there and how many are visiting. I could see visitors, who obviously would not know the wave as well, paddling whenever they see someone else paddle.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  4. #5454
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,432
    ^^^ I'm pretty sure 100% of the herd were visiting surfers. The locals knew exactly where to sit. I'd often find one, and chat with them, just down stream and would take the wave they offered (cause they were passing on it) or wait for the one after they took off on. I did really miss a good number of the best waves coming through - rowing spot really makes a huge difference, but I did get a lot of B grade waves and that was good enough. The smaller days were more of a challenge at the Peak/ Racetracks, hence the paddle up to Temples. Both the high and low tide take off zones had a more sustained location, so it was easier to lineup the lineup.

    TEXASS - I'm a huge fan of my long sleeve hooded rash guard. I've never liked surfing topless, as my hairy chest also gets ripped up with the set wax. The long sleeve/hood just give me plenty of sun protection. I've got a bald/thin hair head, so the hood helps with that. It also has a small visor which helps with sun glare. I saw more than a few folks with leggings, and that would be great for the back of the knees. I'm investing in some zinc for next trip to put on the face and backof my legs/ knees. Its good to remember how little sun the back off our legs usually get. Especially if you are pale/white kind of genetics. Or live in the template zone.

    fool - yeah Stormsurf is a unique forecasting site. I use their quickest to get generally day to day trends. Then the Pacific Forecasts for longer term and more specific details. I do think they dig a lot deeper than Surfline or other sites that rely mostly on algorithms. Surfline daily report is pretty good, but I've never paid for it. The cams are good for figuring out how consistent swell is, but pay site is better for that. The caveat with Stormsurf is those guys are really only intreated in significant swells. In winter, anything with less than 12s period and less and head high kind of gets ignored. It can read "no swell of interest and the beach breaks north of town are chin high and cranking.

    Headed back to Bali in October with the family. Gonna stay four nights in Ubud and then 3 at Bingin. Balagan Beach was pretty killer the day I went over there for lunch. Picturesque. Tide was high and I did not bring my board with me that day, Want to get back thee on lower tide at mid/low. Opted to stay at Bingin w fam as there is just much more to do and walk to intuit area. Can't wait to get back and surf for a few more days.

    And reef bottles any place where I may be (1) surfing a shallow sharp reef - because you can use your feet to protect other parts of your body, and push off the bottom is need be (2) a spot that had a dry or shallow reef walk that is required to get in/out from the line up. They are also nice for walking dry reef at low tide to tide pool and such.

  5. #5455
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    I'd say reef booties depend on whether you have to walk in and out. If I came with a boat and knew the wave I usually wouldn't use them.

    Same for tides or spot where I could get in and out at a sandy spot. Always booties when harp ground contact was likely.


    And ott: balangan at dead low is a more serious wave. Mid is fun. Usually a bit hard to connect the sections Unless big. But I'm a kook ( and a lot kookier back then) so it is definitely possible even when headhigh to a bit overhead.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  6. #5456
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,080
    Back in the land of sandy right points in Oaxaca. Waves have been pretty good the past 4 days, but crowds have been insane. Hopefully crowds slow down a bit... pics to come

  7. #5457
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,261

    Anyone else get some today...?

    Just got back from few sessions yesterday and this morning in NJ. Anything east facing was a nightmare of 20-30mph cross shore winds. Did find a not-so-secret sheltered spot near AC, that did pretty well all considering for some fun waves w a good crew.



    Post session beers on the jetty tasted so good, plenty more to follow. Edit - Also hard to tell, but the surfer on the wave in the water is this 10/11 y/o kid who's on day 860+ consecutive surf days that lives nearby


    This morning winds kicked up to 20-30mph but swell direction turned it into offshore wind for this spot. Couple times felt like throwing on the air-brakes right after popping up, plus waves were really getting walled up. Had a great wave I foolishly took off as a right, getting crushed by the lip and landed on my board. Shoulda gone left!! Fortunately took my foamie so that probably helped minimize injury chance, though my ribs are pretty sore still.


    Had a good beer for lunch w some Advil before heading home. Made best of questionable conditions for Hurricane Ian. Doubt many other spots faired well in NJ/DE/MD this weekend.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by VTskibum; 10-03-2022 at 12:20 PM.

  8. #5458
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lakeside California
    Posts
    526
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Damn, the new board wont fit inside the plane. Well, it would fit but I need to take the fins off the board and maybe a door off the plane. I want to fly to Oceano CA and the Lost Coast. If I have to I will buy a plane specific board . ( One that will fit inside)

  9. #5459
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,261
    Roof rack??

  10. #5460
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    775
    Looks like someone's first time to bali.... I meas disneybaliland.... uluwatu is soooo 2002....you should go to deserts to really get punished.....for me I'm still traveling.... working on 2 years 7 months now.... just summited mount Olympus in greece..spent the summer climbing big mountains and paddleboarding on lefkada island.. o shit I have 8 days left on my schengen visa. Life is good

  11. #5461
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Are you the buttahflake of the surf World?
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

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