Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

jeez, can you guys rub it in any more?

[Piggity]

Live Mav's cam

http://www.surfline.com/live/

[Ottime]

Chose to chase snow over surf Saturday. Still have not heard back from my buddy who likely paddled out yesterday. Today was fun. OH, long, heavily wobbled walls, that so, on occasion squared up on the point and delivered the juice. Others just faded back into the ocean, weak and sad. Nothing less than a few feet OH, some pushing up toward DOH. Fun. More of the same on schedule for the week.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

More wintery surf here. Big storm waves heading in from the NW, strong winds coming in from the SW. Caught a few waves but couldn't find the love like last week. Lumpy, mushy and sometimes a perfect (but big) line. Really hard to position yourself properly. Felt damn cold too.

[Ottime]

Man. What was looking like ideal conditions this week have turned the swell to pretty much crap. Surfed up the coast today. Sloppy at best. Several feet OH to almost DOH, with a lot of juice, but shape was just not there. Heavy drops often followed by a totally flat wave were not uncommon. Even the more lined up waves required a lot of work staying in the pocket and managing the bounce/warble. Hoping things clean up and settle a bit with the next swell, as the recent rain on snow event does not have me inspired to drive to the mountains.

[whitekingsalmon]

Jajaaaaaa

[supermodel159]

Lots of surf this past weekend. A 290+ with juice...conditions ranged from 2' to 15'+ all within about 10 miles of coast. Pretty fun, water is still in the 60+ range, so 3/2 is all you need. Still lots of guys trunking it.

[Ottime]

dude who posts about imaginary friends and life on the internet enjoys a little assumed shadenfreude. go figure. moving on.

SM, your coast down there I imagine did very well with offering a good variety of conditions. I also imagine that town, and beyond, did as well up here with offering the mix. Mavs footage from Sat looks like it was not the crispest of swells up here on the open coast. That westerly direction, tho, pushes a lot of energy into the bay. Water has been way warm up here as well. Hope things don't stay too cozy tho, otherwise you get those beaters who are afraid of the cold starting to cunt up the threads.

Grabbed two, three pics from Middles last week. Will post those some day.

[jtran10]

I snapped my board last Saturday which kind of forced my hand with getting a new board. Decided to go new and got a Pyzalien. 5 10 x 19.5 x 2.4. 5 fin setup and a lot of volume in the nose so hopefully can ride it year round.

Will be surfing it for the first time tomorrow night. Can't wait!

[Sagacity]

nice lookin board. looks versatile.

rog

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Looks good jtran. Would be way on the narrow side for me. Let us know how things went!

PS If I manage to shape a new board in the coming period it'll be a cross between a mini simmons and a board like that (turny groveller).

[Piggity]

That board looks nice, love the dims. Carbon on the rails near the tail? fancy

[jtran10]

I expect to be surfing like John John when I take it out tonight.

[supermodel159]

I snapped my board last Saturday which kind of forced my hand with getting a new board. Decided to go new and got a Pyzalien. 5 10 x 19.5 x 2.4. 5 fin setup and a lot of volume in the nose so hopefully can ride it year round.

Will be surfing it for the first time tomorrow night. Can't wait!

If you're ever around SB, get a hold of me. I have a 6'4 with similar dims you can have.

[jtran10]

If you're ever around SB, get a hold of me. I have a 6'4 with similar dims you can have.

Thanks man! I'll definitely take you up on that if I am up that way.

[Ottime]

nom nom. last night and this morning is more of what i have been looking for. not epic, but really damn good. learned yesterday why i might want my step up. first paddled out on the 6.0, got a few, dodge a few as the new swell filled in, than grabbed a long one, just a few feet OH, but with some bump in the face. had to be real light on the bottom turns so as to not hop up and off the face. epoxy, eh. took it to the beach, switched to the poly 6.6. what a difference. easy stroking in, even on the bigger sets, easy drops for the most part, long bottom turns you could drive through. and then this morning it was fun to push that board on its limits. 2 hour session with a magical 50 minutes right in the middle. merry christmas indeed.

[Ottime]

Certainly not last season's two week perfection but it has been fun surfin daily for a week. Enjoy a beer after my session. Smallest day yet. Chest to head high on the reef. On the small board again. That thing is loose. Looks like we are in for a week of offshore ish chest/head high ish surf.



Btw, big beach break can be work and fun. Tomorrow looks like more barrel options.

[Ottime]

puuuuumping out there today. Just got 5 waves in the hour fifteen I was out, but holy jebus they were excellent. 8-12 foot steep, thick lefts that threw out some very large sized barrels. Love the ganji when it goes thus. Also had one of my best beatings of the season. Caught the wave, got hung up at the top, but kept the pressure on the front toes as the thing stood up, finally able to push down the face, and must have hit a warble near the bottom and just pulled too hard into the face, rolled forward over my toes and began to spin on my back as the entire section began to throw. I may have even gotten a tube while sliding across the face. Luckily thought to take a breath right before the entire thing threw, crushed and hiccuped me, before sucking me down a whole and thrashing me underneath. Fucking awesome session. Did not expect nearly as much juice/size. Add in the glass and perfect tides, and it may just be the best day of the winter yet.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Stormy today: 8 bft (SW), rainy but got in the water anyway. Caught a few big(ish) mushy giants and had a ball.


(not very flattering but that's me today!)

(Credits to Dave van der Sar for the pic)

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Sounds 'good' Ottime, except for the wipe out.

I am so stoked on surfing nowadays. Can't wait to get this whole ACL reconstruction behind my back and work on getting better at surfing!

[whitekingsalmon]

puuuuumping out there today. Just got 5 waves in the hour fifteen I was out, but holy jebus they were excellent. 8-12 foot steep, thick lefts that threw out some very large sized barrels. Love the ganji when it goes thus. Also had one of my best beatings of the season. Caught the wave, got hung up at the top, but kept the pressure on the front toes as the thing stood up, finally able to push down the face, and must have hit a warble near the bottom and just pulled too hard into the face, rolled forward over my toes and began to spin on my back as the entire section began to throw. I may have even gotten a tube while sliding across the face. Luckily thought to take a breath right before the entire thing threw, crushed and hiccuped me, before sucking me down a whole and thrashing me underneath. Fucking awesome session. Did not expect nearly as much juice/size. Add in the glass and perfect tides, and it may just be the best day of the winter yet.

Jaja gotta laugh at the scripted wave chatter.

[Ottime]

jaja gotta laugh at the need to edit. i thought you were off in some fantasy of your decrepit mind. no? you back. thank god. we all missed you terribly.

[Ottime]

Stormy today: 8 bft (SW), rainy but got in the water anyway. Caught a few big(ish) mushy giants and had a ball.


(not very flattering but that's me today!)

(Credits to Dave van der Sar for the pic)

Stoke. Flattering is for those who need to be flattered. The more pics/vid you can get of yourself, the more feedback you get. They are always a good thing.

The wipeout was good too. A solid beating only means you were out there going for it. I could have easily backed off the top of the wave, but it was such a beauty, I could not give up the attempt. And paid dearly.

What made the session so much fun is it was just me and two others, I know from the water, out there. It was really surfer vs wave kind of stuff. It was not easy to grab them, but the pay off was tremendous. About a half mile away, 25 or so, shared another wave, and while it was going off, and easier to catch, there was not nearly enough to go around. A hundred yards away, another wave was breaking. 8 guys on it, but mostly just exploding on the ledge and not really peeling well. The three of us scored. When one buddy buckled his board on a failed drop, he went in, climbed a cliff, ran to a car, switched boards and went right back out. No thoughts of going else where. Those days rule.

[TEXASS]

Saturday was fun. A few head high sets. back riding the longboard so I got enough waves before the tide shut it down. had to put booties on. Winter has arrived in San Diego

[Ski to Be]

Curious if you So Cal surfers follow the 72 hour rule after rain. I am sitting on the beach in La Jolla watching at least 25 surfers 2 days out from Sunday's rain and it is driving me crazy waiting.


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