Page 187 of 187 FirstFirst ... 182 183 184 185 186 187
Results 4,651 to 4,655 of 4655
  1. #4651
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,159
    Driving south on Get Hwy just now to get groceries, we were passed by a multitude of fire and rescue vehicles. When we drove by, they were putting on wetsuits. This isn't going to end well

  2. #4652
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    8,413
    Surfed the ledge south of Scottís in the morning. Super fun. Mix of fun sized dying swell changing to solid long period swell as the morning progressed. It was maxing on the reef around 1pm when I left, but from the cliff it still looked money, as the wave shifted out with the dropping tide. Surfed with just two others. Then a third. Know them all. Super fun. Letís call it 5-10 foot depending on the time of day. But those later bigger waves were thick as fuck. Scottís has about 20 on it and only the new swell was breaking in it.

    Afternoon at 3 mile. OH. Clean. Felt like surfing town with all the paddling around, dropping in, snaking, and General Tom fuckery in the water. Grabbed a few and got out of there.

    Tomorrow looks good. Pt Reyes cdip is 10.8@18 and SC 8.4@18, and the swell is supposed to peak tomorrow. Might even get to break out the big boards tomorrow.

    That morning high tide looks perfect for up north. Bet town will be great in the afternoon. Too bad it is going to be Friday night and every yahoo will be on it. For sure there will be more rescues Friday and this weekend.

  3. #4653
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    8,413
    Yesterday was excellent. Surfed Scotts until the crowd got too thick. It was large. Maybe DOH, thick, fast, long. The outside was all juice and a bit of a race track for the 6.6. All my waves connected to the inside where it was about 6-10í walls, crisp, clean and so much fun. Literally took the last one to the beach, making top turns all the way through.

    Took a second session at the ledge. That was an adrenaline fest. Maybe a bit too much swell for the reef, except that the right waves peeled 60 yards. Those rides were fast and walled. And it was the kind of day where mistakes would be heavily paid for. I got one that put me in a stand up barrel, partly because my feet were too close together and I was unable to crank a down the line bottom turn, so instead I slowly bottom turned back up into the bowl and pointed and waited and came spitting out. Best part was the other guy out said I looked so casual and confident in the pit. Such a fun fucking session. Never had more than three others in the water.

    This morning was super fun. Size is way down. Back on the squash tail. Head high plus at the ledge. Perfect fun sized waves. Inside barrel was working.

    Finally getting those good runs of swell and conditions lining up. Things look to pick up again next week. Will need to watch the winds tho.

  4. #4654
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    753
    Jajajaaaaa

  5. #4655
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    8,413
    In the spirit of the season, can we turn the topic back to wetsuits. We were talking about the advantage of cold water in big wave surfing, as the wetsuit allows you to know you will get back to the surface. It is the perfect floatation device. And the added bouncy during duck diving is not an issue, as no one is fuck diving their big wave guns.

    Wetsuits and winter juice.

    Another fun sized day today. More swell arrives tomorrow, although with a bit less period. Peaking at 9@17.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •