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  1. #4651
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    Aug 2006
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    Driving south on Get Hwy just now to get groceries, we were passed by a multitude of fire and rescue vehicles. When we drove by, they were putting on wetsuits. This isn't going to end well

  2. #4652
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    Jun 2007
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    Surfed the ledge south of Scottís in the morning. Super fun. Mix of fun sized dying swell changing to solid long period swell as the morning progressed. It was maxing on the reef around 1pm when I left, but from the cliff it still looked money, as the wave shifted out with the dropping tide. Surfed with just two others. Then a third. Know them all. Super fun. Letís call it 5-10 foot depending on the time of day. But those later bigger waves were thick as fuck. Scottís has about 20 on it and only the new swell was breaking in it.

    Afternoon at 3 mile. OH. Clean. Felt like surfing town with all the paddling around, dropping in, snaking, and General Tom fuckery in the water. Grabbed a few and got out of there.

    Tomorrow looks good. Pt Reyes cdip is 10.8@18 and SC 8.4@18, and the swell is supposed to peak tomorrow. Might even get to break out the big boards tomorrow.

    That morning high tide looks perfect for up north. Bet town will be great in the afternoon. Too bad it is going to be Friday night and every yahoo will be on it. For sure there will be more rescues Friday and this weekend.

  3. #4653
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    Jun 2007
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    Yesterday was excellent. Surfed Scotts until the crowd got too thick. It was large. Maybe DOH, thick, fast, long. The outside was all juice and a bit of a race track for the 6.6. All my waves connected to the inside where it was about 6-10í walls, crisp, clean and so much fun. Literally took the last one to the beach, making top turns all the way through.

    Took a second session at the ledge. That was an adrenaline fest. Maybe a bit too much swell for the reef, except that the right waves peeled 60 yards. Those rides were fast and walled. And it was the kind of day where mistakes would be heavily paid for. I got one that put me in a stand up barrel, partly because my feet were too close together and I was unable to crank a down the line bottom turn, so instead I slowly bottom turned back up into the bowl and pointed and waited and came spitting out. Best part was the other guy out said I looked so casual and confident in the pit. Such a fun fucking session. Never had more than three others in the water.

    This morning was super fun. Size is way down. Back on the squash tail. Head high plus at the ledge. Perfect fun sized waves. Inside barrel was working.

    Finally getting those good runs of swell and conditions lining up. Things look to pick up again next week. Will need to watch the winds tho.

  4. #4654
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    Oct 2013
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    761
    Jajajaaaaa

  5. #4655
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    Jun 2007
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    In the spirit of the season, can we turn the topic back to wetsuits. We were talking about the advantage of cold water in big wave surfing, as the wetsuit allows you to know you will get back to the surface. It is the perfect floatation device. And the added bouncy during duck diving is not an issue, as no one is fuck diving their big wave guns.

    Wetsuits and winter juice.

    Another fun sized day today. More swell arrives tomorrow, although with a bit less period. Peaking at 9@17.

  6. #4656
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    Aug 2006
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    Heh, that's true re: ducking guns. I have two Buzz Guns, and you really can't duck either one. The 8'5", kinda almost.

    Friday I took the fam to SC to scope out waves. On the way out of town, the same rescue brigade at the south end of the beach. Guy washed up, made it to UC and they called it. There's a photo of them doing their best on the beach, and an ancient longboard in the foreground. Kind of like a skier getting caught out of bounds without a beacon. Sad, and also expected. Sucks to see someone die surfing, though.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  7. #4657
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    Surprisingly fun today despite the funk.

    Bummed about that death at OB. Yesterday was even more powerful, and Thursday looks like we could get even more. Always good to know your limits. Seems like we pretty much skipped fall and are right into winter.

  8. #4658
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    Thursday was fucking amazing at Scottís. Not sure how big the big sets were. Maybe DOH. Maybe more. I snapped my 6.6 on Monday out there on a bomb, so I had a chose of 7.6 or 6.4 yesterday. I choose the shorter board, figuring it would be a lot more fun once off the peak and on the inside.

    Ended up sitting on the peak, and picking off a bunch of waves in the 4í OH range. The period was only 14s, so the wave was thick and meaty on the reef, but soft enough on the shoulder that it was not a racing stiff wall. FKNA. 200 yard plus rides from the peak to the channel all the way to the beach. Small enough overall crowd and just 4-5 of us sitting on the peak made for a shit ton of waves. After 3 hours I was spent. Best Mid sized Scotts day I can remember in years. Fuck yeah.

    Stayed in my suit for a bit after getting out thinking I might double session. Decided to take my old, tired, satiated body home instead. Didnít want to change the high I was on.

    South winds today, but we have a string of storms coming across the NPAC like I have not seen in several seasons.

    It is on west coasters. Go get some. Saturday and Monday look good locally. Might even need to surf in town Monday. Afternoon Swift session.

  9. #4659
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    Aug 2007
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    Man, next week has 3 or 4 big days forecasted. I will be watching from the cliffs, as I am to old for that stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  10. #4660
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    Forecast for Monday is 16.8í@18-19sec. A second swell Thurs 10.8@17s. It is going to be big all next week up here with Monday seeing some 30í sets. I bet Mavs gets bigger. Time to unpack the balls.

  11. #4661
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    Dec 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Forecast for Monday is 16.8í@18-19sec. A second swell Thurs 10.8@17s. It is going to be big all next week up here with Monday seeing some 30í sets. I bet Mavs gets bigger. Time to unpack the balls.
    Crazy out there. Every pic lately is from "northern" California.

    The OB is absolutely horrible. Last time I was there that place just looked scary standing on the beach.

    My slug landed home tonight. Good to have him back for a few weeks and we have a swell coming, but nothing like out there.

  12. #4662
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    Sep 2011
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    30í sets, thatís it...I sense a yawn or jajajaja coming soon lol 😂

    Plus everyone knows all the cool kids break their toe right before the winter & sit on the couch for 6 weeks 🤦🏽♂️ FML


  13. #4663
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  14. #4664
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    Vibes PW7. I know that feeling well from last year. Although I was out of the water for five months with my ankle. So I win that one.

    How does the effect snowboarding? Iíd assume about the same. Do as much ankle and calf work that up are permitted to keep those muscles active. I was cleared to walk before anything else. Go get your hike on.

    I figure my posts donít really count until I get a yawn or jajajaja. I mean, the rest of your are pretty cool, but none hold the sway that fishboy does. He is so worldly, and basically the center of the surfing and skiing world (yeah, I know bishop is neither, but in his mind).

    Anyway, making some turns with the kiddo this weekend. KW is in great shape with nice winter buff. Driving home today, excited about tomorrow, but also hoping it is well modified in town. Iím sure there will be a bunch getting in over their heads. Also wondering if it will be enough to push New Brighton to head high. When it hits chest high, it starts to resemble Kirra, except it has a bit more rock than sand.

  15. #4665
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    Aug 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by PowerWhore7 View Post
    30’ sets, that’s it...I sense a yawn or jajajaja coming soon lol ��

    Plus everyone knows all the cool kids break their toe right before the winter & sit on the couch for 6 weeks ����♂️ FML

    I broke the toe next to the big one a few years back. Taped it up and just made do. Healed bent, but toes look fucked up anyways so tape it up, take a few Advil and go
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  16. #4666
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    Solid surf in town today. I grabbed three waves Swift. Didnít really want to go out, but my buddy insisted. Had that nervous stomach feeling while suiting up. Felt tired from skiing with the kid this weekend and driving. Looking for excuses. Jumped off of rocks and cleared the inside soup with no incident. Paddled the long paddle up the back of the wave and settled in at the peak. There were about 6 of us out there. Not wanting to take one on the head, I kept outside and east of the peak. Saw a set coming and paddled how I would normally. I was not up and was not really ready to grab one yet. The thing lined up perfectly with me, I heard a hoot, and knew I had to go. It was big. A few seconds to get to the bottom big. Moving at high speeds big. Made it through the first racing section and made my one turn. Some how that set me up for a barrel in the middle section. Dude on the shoulder said I was standing straight up in the tube and had over three feet of head room. I didnít bother looking around. The final section was smaller, but a fast, lined up, thick ten foot wall. Finished my wave at the peak of the next surf break. Unreal. I didnít wait five minutes for that wave. And I was done. Needed no more. But I was not in a good spot to paddle in, so back out to the peak. Caught a ten footer (face) of no real consequence. Grabbed a third, not as big as the first and no barrel, but I was able to ride it more aggressively and make more turns. Straighten out as it sped up on the inside, avoid the lip and got myself into the cove. Me and board both in one piece. Good times. Looking forward to tomorrow.

    Saw BS720 up on the cliff. Did you get some?

    Got my Evolved board today. Looks pretty nice for $310 delivered. They were slow to ship (they actually forgot to set the pick up date), so that kind of blew, but overall worth the price. Iíll see how it surfs when things drop another 10 or more feet.

  17. #4667
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    Aug 2007
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    You're Crazy, but I am glad you caught that 1st wave. That memory will stay with you for awhile.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  18. #4668
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    761
    Yawn... our surf house in pavones is open... already full thru the end of jan..I guess people love to surf the 2nd longest left in the world.. just bring your board n a few surf trunks... new this year we have a boat to go fishing when swell is down.

  19. #4669
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    ^^^link? So we can check it out.

    Still big out there. Bump back up today. Not that it was needed. Scotts was plenty big yesterday.

  20. #4670
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    Jun 2007
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    Anyone else get some today...?

    Anyway, been quite a run up here. Lots of use of the 8í4Ē. I canít recall the last time I got this many big days in a row. Monday was in town, the others at Scotts. I think Wednesday was actually the biggest with the fore runners of the Thursday swell. Dropping quickly today. Gonna be under 10í by afternoon. Looks like another solid bump on Sunday. Smaller tho. Only forecasting 8@17.

    Grabbed a few picks of smaller sets from yesterday before I went in. Maybe Iíll even post some stoke up here. Or maybe Iíll just jajajajaj beach house pavones point breaks blah blah boardshorts yíall.

  21. #4671
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,440
    Blackie's and the lower jetties have been really fun in Newport the last couple of days.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  22. #4672
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    Been a good run. South wind came up mid morning, but I had to be at the DMV by 9:50, so I was out before it blew. Been a good run the last few weeks. Things get more moderate tomorrow. Iíll be at the snow before the next long period swell hits on Friday.

    Got a session on the 6.0 Evolved on Saturday. Still need more time to make an assessment, but it is solid deal at $310 delivered. I think the tail has a bit more float than I might find ideal for the waves I want to surf it in, it could have that foam shifted up front of center, and the rails could soften a bit more quickly in the transition from the tail, and could harden a bit more under the fin boxes, but over all it is a decent board. Need to get it out in more and smaller surf to get a good review for it. But at 42% of the cost of a CI, Iím sold on giving it a try.

  23. #4673
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    Dec 2002
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    cow hampshire
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  24. #4674
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    Aug 2006
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    SFCA
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    Happy New Years you fucks. Hope everyone is getting this fat swell this week where they can.

  25. #4675
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    Jun 2007
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    Happy new year. Just back in town after a week of cold and fast family ski and the surf is still rocking. So much fun out there today. The Evolved surfs well. At least it can find barrels and show fins through the lip. Tomorrow looks good before the south winds return.

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