Anyone else get some today...?

[HotTate]

Picked up a few left overs at Cardiff Reef today.

[PowerWhore7]

edit: where the fuck is rog?

[Ottime]

he's been tripled banned. it was a real hissy fit kind of thing.

anyway. i got some over the past few days. friday, while the boy was back in school, i showed up at the reef, just as the tide was getting not properly high enough. i knew that was the case, and also stopped somewhere else on the way, but wanted to get more of the juice. so i went to the juice spot. at technically too low of a tide. which was good for me, as the crowd dropped from 12 to 2 as i suited up. sure, it was quirky, with the tide being technically to low to be optimum. and i learned quickly there was no need to settle back into the pocket, as the pocket would quickly catch up to you. it is a long wave, that can improve along its way, so it is good to make the sections. had so much fun with the waves running OH to well OH. and thick. caught a really good one on the way in, and just as that was crossing my mind, i mean, that i was getting a really fucking nice one, i hit it tight and high, carved down, and as i was boogying back underneath it, the lip crushed me. fun.

had fun today as well. dropped the family off at the airport at 6am, and surfed all day.

friday afternoon i took the boy down to the beach to hang out in the sun, beat the heat, and play with his new tonka truck. fucking gapers every where. Very disappointing...


















































....to not have my gear and child care. this show was going on.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Damn that sounds sweet!

[Ottime]

Swell has been backing off since Thursday, but sunset tonight was phenomenal. Out solo. Super glassy. Head high to 2' OH. Steep, hollow, thick bowls. The goodness.

[PowerWhore7]

miss ya Rog

[Tectonically_Neglected]

That looks like a slice of paradise! NIcely done

[Ski to Be]

Hit San O on Saturday and took the longboard and had perfect waves in almost 80 degrees. Surfed till my arms couldn't move. Trestles looked awesome as well.


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[soylent green]

Hit San O on Saturday and took the longboard and had perfect waves in almost 80 degrees. Surfed till my arms couldn't move. Trestles looked awesome as well.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I hit SanO on Friday night. Last week. Very few people out and perfect waves. Ask around down at Old Man's for the kook from CO. I stand out like a sore fucking thumb. SanO has been the center of my universe for 4 months now.

[Ski to Be]

Back in Washington but will look for you next year. Love how Old Mans swallows up large swell and turns it into big peaks that crumble . Not too much surf etiquette there but so much fun to take off on a 10 foot wave on a log and know that it isn't going to closeout on you.

[Ski to Be]

Got one of those Surf GPS watches from Rip Curl. Pretty sweet to geek out after a surf session. For the most part it logs every wave. Some slow waves it misses but others that you crash on it counts so it evens out overall. It is funny how it looks like you go straight even though you are going down the line. Obviously I don't shoot down the line as much as others.

[Ottime]

I was gonna give you shit about the it's not gonna barrel on ya being a good thing, but then this last post softened up my mood. That is really cool data. How much does that watch sell for? I'd love to track a session like that. It be even cooler if it calculated paddle back lengths and times.

[Ski to Be]

It does track the paddling and distance paddled. $400 retail. It just doesn't upload the paddling to the web. Just your smart phone. It is nice to see how where I was catching the most waves and where I paddled.I was staying in La Jolla Shores for 7 weeks surfing almost daily and got used to being slammed by big beach break waves at Scripps and snapped my shorter board in half so it was nice to be on a chill longboard wave to get my confidence back. Been surfing for seven years now and I still can't believe how slow my progress has been. Granted the first five were only 10- 20 days a year.

[soylent green]

He's right, Old Man's just doesn't close out like other places. It just peeeels! (most of the time) South swell is coming this weekend. SanO was made for S swell. Can't wait.

[Ottime]

South swell being a "thing" mid winter, kind of makes me sad.

I hear ya ski to be. Been there done that. Even a few weeks ago, after having a so-so session at my favorite ledge, I hit a point with the afternoon low tide, just for the ease of getting waves. But I still hoped for a barrel or two.

[whitekingsalmon]

Morning surf report 85 degree water n double to triple overhead..sets are coming in with 10 plus waves..pppppppppàaaavvvvones
To edit....wind going in the bay like most days... screws the wave n the last report 5 min ago was the corner was still going off.... I make it sound big but the bigger sets were huge .main sets were easy double head high..reeling the whole way.. This place is for real sick sick...but ya its to far away and small n this n that...that's the answer I got from a guy today after I asked him why is this place still quiet... Far far away on a dirt road...world class surf break that you have to see with your own eyes.sick jungle too.

[Rodneyyee]

^^^^this guy-wailing up here in the sierra and mr meth is off in his head again playing wanna be connelly--such a clown act.

Middle of nowhere he says but look!!!! he must of found "wifi"---------------------------------------------charade after charade.

[whitekingsalmon]

[whitekingsalmon]

[whitekingsalmon]

New swell today and should be big tomorrow. Next week another 3 day swell,.,sick here in pavones.
That pic I posted above is a break called wheelchairs...its across the river an at the top rock point of pavones surf break...that's a small wave during the swell.

[Rodneyyee]

New swell today and should be big tomorrow. Next week another 3 day swell,.,sick here in pavones.
That pic I posted above is a break called wheelchairs...its across the river an at the top rock point of pavones surf break...that's a small wave during the swell.

Yea and a little google image search and you can get the original upload date and the oG photog........sad son...very sad.

[whitekingsalmon]

Few days ago last solid swell

[whitekingsalmon]

World class shit going on here....

[DasBlunt]

the city break in Santo Domingo is pretty nice.....not mentioning the flotsam and jetsam on the paddle out though....

[whitekingsalmon]

Morning surf report from the backyard