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  1. #4276
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    Oct 2017
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    582
    Good stuff dfinn.

  2. #4277
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761
    That looks fun.

  3. #4278
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,102
    OB offshore today. First day in a while I've seen it like this. It worked great untill high tide, then turned off. Shortest session of the week at two hours, but with multiple five hour sessions this week, it was great to paddle for two hours and still have a reserve.

  4. #4279
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761
    Damn. What have you been chasing for 5 hours. It's been a lot of short/mid period stuff. I'm usually over that after 90 minutes.

    Looks like we could get a swell Monday, right as my cast comes off.

  5. #4280
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,102
    I'm on my 10 day off stretch from work. I try to get in a few hours at the beach, then a few hours at another spot. Don't want ten days off work to be a waste. Beach sucks on low tide, but some other spots(Dead's, etc...) are then good. Yesterday was cut short, because incoming was offshore, then it died on high tide, and somehow never got back to good before I went to Underdogs for margaritas

    Careful on the rebound, dude. This swell could be juicy.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  6. #4281
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761
    Yeah. I'm not surfing Monday. Just getting the cast off. I'll paddle out at Cowells as soon as I can
    Get back up the stairs. Just paddle and maybe a few prone rides. Then knees. With or w/o my kid tandem. It will be some time before I surf for reals again.

  7. #4282
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    146
    Yesterday morning at ocean beach was indeed awesome. And post-surf Underdogís is where itís at. I like your style. I need to work on my stamina though, no way I could do five hours at Ocean Beach.

    Ottime, good luck with the rehab.

    Iím so stoked on surfing right now Iím not even excited to ski this weekend; it feels weird.

  8. #4283
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    1,281
    Be in Costa Rica in one week. Playa Negra area. Annual trip. Stoke level building....

  9. #4284
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    8,530
    didn't see it the first couple times and thought he was just being silly

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bb3aqIQjQn_/

  10. #4285
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    142
    We're in Playa Guiones for a few weeks. It's been fun size. I should post this in the awesome wife thread. STOKED!!
    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #4286
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761
    Ah. Warm water. The playas are fun. Enjoy your all time down there.

  12. #4287
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,259
    Fun yesterday morning in Newport, surfed 30th street. Nothing special, but chest high and good shape. I have been wearing a 3/2 for the last couple of weeks, water is finally too cold for the long sleeved spring.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  13. #4288
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761
    It is 12@17 here.

    Cast off. In boot. Still a good number of days away from a paddle out. But getting closer.

    Swell is pumping.

  14. #4289
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    here & there
    Posts
    1,017
    nice!! I almost forgot about this thread since it wasn't being updated hourly

    stoked your cast is off dude, being hurt is the fucking worst...got a broken rib here & its extremely annoying. Tried to surf yesterday but it was a disaster & definitely made things worse lol
    "In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."

  15. #4290
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761
    Fucking ribs and surfing. As a kid, I'd surf 12-14 hours during a mid summer hurricane swell. Would bruise the hell out of my ribs; enough so it hurt to laugh. So my buddies would smoke me out and tell jokes. Fuckers.

  16. #4291
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    getting warmer...
    Posts
    382
    PW you try using a piece of foam under your wetsuit? I had a separated rib a few years back and tortured myself trying to surf through it. The foam didn't help more than it hurt. I saw a guy suiting up yesterday at C street trying the same thing.

  17. #4292
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,259
    Had a blast this morning at 28th street. It was shoulder high +, and after a little while I noticed that there was only one guy at the jetty. We traded 100 yard lefts for about an hour. Super fun and consistent when you are only with one other guy. I love it when you get a jetty uncrowded, a rare treat.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  18. #4293
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by ate'em View Post
    PW you try using a piece of foam under your wetsuit? I had a separated rib a few years back and tortured myself trying to surf through it. The foam didn't help more than it hurt. I saw a guy suiting up yesterday at C street trying the same thing.
    You sure he wasn't just happy to see you?
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  19. #4294
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761

    Anyone else get some today...?

    Can some one please post up some stoke so we can get that way to big to be decent jalama pic off the thumbnail. Good shit been going down for days and now it is the weekend.

    And fucking surfer up about the ribs. It's just pain. Paddle through it.

    Grey out on the bay today. Can barely see some mountain tops etched across it. I hear it has been fun around these parts.

  20. #4295
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    142
    I've got some super mega stoke as I got the best barrell of my life this week (not really saying a lot, but still) Firing Playa Marabella, a little combo swell with peaking a frames. After about 15 minutes in, a perfect lump headed right at me, dropped in and didn't even realize I was getting shacked it was so tall and perfect. Clean exit out the shoulder and I have been replaying it ever since. Was riding a rented Pyzel Slab, now I want to buy one...
    Stayed in for 5 hours, got some excellent rides after that, including some pumping lefts, but nothing like that first set...Also got a good over the falls hold down, but that comes with the territory.
    No pics except of the wife and grom. My 8 year old had a couple sessions with a surf coach and she paddled into her first waves. I've always pushed her in, but she caught some herself for the first time. This trip to CR has been off the charts, so much stoke and Pura Vida!! Now back to cold and gray NorCal but holy shit, it looks like it's pumping with some serious NPAC action this week. Glad I just got a new hooded R3...

  21. #4296
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    getting warmer...
    Posts
    382
    Quote Originally Posted by BS720 View Post
    You sure he wasn't just happy to see you?
    not really the vibe at C street, but hey, maybe I dropped the pass.

  22. #4297
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by ate'em View Post
    not really the vibe at C street, but hey, maybe I dropped the pass.
    Haha! True. More of a Silver Strand vibe, maybe?

    I have a gay coworker that is pretty over the top. He once told me that if you sit in the parking lot at Beach Chalet, you can watch the surfers get out and change, and sometimes they'll drop the towel a bit to give you a free show. I tried to tell him this was most definitely not intentional, but an accident, and he had none of it. Nowadays, even if I'm inclined to surf that part of the beach, I open two doors and change in between the doors.

    This swell has been weird. Not big enough to drag out the huge boards, but big enough to make the trek out to Drake's, only to find it less than head high. The Beach has been a shitshow. We have had some windows, but not consistent clean surf. Heading down to San Diego again for a wedding this week, leaving Tuesday to allow some surf time.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  23. #4298
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    621
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  24. #4299
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,259
    Dawn patrols the last couple of mornings in newps. Fun if you pick the right ones, but the offshore are howling. About shoulder high.

  25. #4300
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    7,761
    Off shores are making for great conditions up here. Through the grapevine. I'm almost ready to drive and get myself back in the water.

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