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  1. #126
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    Check out the 90hr+ on the models, nice Npac system and then a little blob south of baja.

    http://www.stormsurfing.com/cgi/disp...?a=npac_height

  2. #127
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    Jun 2007
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    That little blob might just send some moisture into the state.

    Tried to get out to shoot at the lane this morning. Bug conspired to abort the mission with diaper changes, bottle feeds and a general need to be cuddled. Still, I got a few shots off. Bad angle and light. And way too wide of a lens.

    The slot seemed to have the best waves. I missed a number of good shots, with thick lips. But it was really the only down the line surfing going on.


    Middle Peak had some large peaks. Definitely over head.


    The left looked very nice, but was mostly untouched. This guy dropped into one deep.


    But the outside really remained unridden. This was a typical set. Untouched.


    The peanut gallery was huge. As were many of the lenses I saw.


    Got out this evening, up the coast. Far from perfect. Far from great even. But it was several feet over head and just two of us out. And plenty of paddling. Surf should be on over the next few days.
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  3. #128
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    Dec 2009
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    nice shots chad!

    waves look quite user friendly. overhead? c'mon!

    rog

  4. #129
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    Aug 2007
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    Nice pics!!!!! Fun day down in San Diego this morning, with some chest to head high waves coming through pretty consistently at Delmar. Was a very fun morning. Took my buddies to breakfast afterwards and we were all very happy with the waves. Felt like Fall this morning
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  5. #130
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    Jun 2007
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    More manageable today. Bigger crowds. Not so bad around 9:30. By 10:30 it was thick. The boyz were schooling the new arrival slugs. Heckles and full antics at the slot. A shot to give you a taste of the day. This guy killed every wave. Usually in front of some one.



    Waves ranging from chest to slightly overhead. Lots of folks on the water. 50 surfers. A few SUP around the corner. Sail boats, row boats, power boats, kayaks.
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  6. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by icelanticskier View Post
    nice shots chad!

    waves look quite user friendly. overhead? c'mon!

    rog
    Actually, looks can be deceiving. There was a lot of current, and Middles is a pop up peak - hard to judge where it will go. That is why so many of the outside ones slipped by. Some days are more user friendly than others. And on big days, the left lands you into the heart of the washing machine.

  7. #132
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    Mar 2010
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    Quality shots man.

    Caught a few fun tree footers with occasional four sneaking in. Surfed the beaches and then paddled to the inside reef at 15th. Where the reef meets the sandbar there was a very fun 3-4ft wedge that was tasty. Last wave in was the best corner I've found in weeks. Maybe sesh #2 coming up
    Last edited by Piggity; 09-23-2011 at 04:19 PM.

  8. #133
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    If this forecast holds true then SD will have waves mid to late next week, please let there be some big NW windswell at the same time.

  9. #134
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    Dec 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    Nice pics!!!!! Felt like Fall this morning
    I'll 2nd that. Water and air temps are definitely chilly. Surfed at dawn this morning and just got back from a mellow pm session with the kid. He's too damn skinny to last long in the cold water and was done after 30 minutes. Probably hit scripps early tomorrow am. Hope it continues for a few days.

  10. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by BirdRock View Post
    just got back from a mellow pm session with the kid.
    I always tried to get my girls to surf with me. Started them out on bogie boards when they were small and the older girl actually took some surf lessons, but I could never get any of my girls (wife too) into surfing or skiing. Hopefully, years down the road I will get a few grand kids I can get into dirt bikes, surfing and skiing with the G dad, as my girls were too girly for fun stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  11. #136
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    I finally got some today. Up the coast. Super glassy. A foot overhead, or so. Crisp, clean. And just a few out. Yes.

    OOF, but I still like it. Working on getting it crisp next time.


    More pics from the past swell on my blog. yup. wavestoke.blogspot.com
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  12. #137
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    Dec 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    I always tried to get my girls to surf with me. Started them out on bogie boards when they were small and the older girl actually took some surf lessons, but I could never get any of my girls (wife too) into surfing or skiing. Hopefully, years down the road I will get a few grand kids I can get into dirt bikes, surfing and skiing with the G dad, as my girls were too girly for fun stuff.
    I'm blessed with a boy (8) who idolizes me. If I shit in my hand and ate it he'd probably want to do the same. Easy to get him to fish,surf, ski, play soccer, etc. He just does what I do. Hopefully he doesn't pick up any of the bad traits.

    Red tide has invaded la jolla. Ugly coffee colored water all weekend. Surf was small today but still fun with no crowd out at 6am.

  13. #138
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    Late season New Zealand swell? Seas up to 48ft are forecasted, next 24-36hrs will be very telling. Rocktober is one of my favorite months for surf

    http://www.stormsurfing.com/cgi/disp...?a=spac_height

  14. #139
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    Dec 2009
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    TODAY IN COWHAMPSHIRE

    man do small days have their advantages.

    3 sessions totalling 5 hours with 3 hours just in trunks and a ball cap at the rocks today.

    the log made the knee/thigh/occasional waist high waves feel damn near perfect. just me and 3 friends out for the afternoon trunk sesh which had the best waves.

    as much as i loved the o-head waves of tuesday, the zero crowds and perfect lefts in trunks were a very welcome reprieve today.

    feels like summer, without the crowds, a beautiful thing. more logging tomorrow morning if winds behave.

    rog

  15. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piggity POW View Post
    Late season New Zealand swell? Seas up to 48ft are forecasted, next 24-36hrs will be very telling. Rocktober is one of my favorite months for surf

    http://www.stormsurfing.com/cgi/disp...?a=spac_height
    looks like a lot of that fetch is pointed pretty east. truth in the next 36 hours being telling. we have another round of nw on tap for mid week. the nice thing about up here, as long as the winds stay mellow, there are plenty of places that turn a 8@11, 7@12, 6@13, 5@14 into very very fun waves. Hell, we will even see spots get good when it is as small as 6@10, although I ten to think of 7@11 being the cut off for decent NW waves north of town.

    Still, won't mind seeing another good sized south.

  16. #141
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    yeah, bulk of the energy is moving east at it's peak so less than ideal but should still put a few waves out. Probably inconsistent with island shadowing and the less than ideal track. Still nice to see some energy in both hemis.

    It sounds like you guys have a ton of spots to choose from depending on the size, direction and period. Looking forward to some of your photos this upcoming season

  17. #142
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    Aug 2006
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    SFCA
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    Mmmmmmmm. Combo.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  18. #143
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    For me, I live for those first solid NW swells of the season in October. I am over the inconsistent South Swells. Come on Gulf of Alaska, bring it.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  19. #144
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    Well, according to stormsurf, you guys should expect devastatingly hudge surf in a few days. I would head up into the mountain if this is not a typo.

    Previously, a cutoff low developed Monday PM (9/19) on the eastern edge of the CA swell window with 45 kt southwest winds over a tiny area in the Central Pacific. By Tuesday AM winds were near 55 kts but it had quickly turned flowing due east. 34 ft seas were modeled at 34 ft Tuesday AM at 38S 130W covering only a tiny area. In the evening seas to build to 36 ft at 37S 125W over a tiny area all aimed to the east. 38 ft seas forecast at 37S 119W Wed AM (9/21) before fading and moving out of even the Southern CA swell window. Some degree of tiny south angled sideband swell is possible for Southern CA by Tues AM (9/27) with luck 91.6 ft @ 16-17 secs - 189 degrees)
    That should break at about 160 foot at you deep water spots. Cortez?

  20. #145
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    When is the next good swell coming to Santa Cruz? I want one more looksee before I leave on Oct 9th.
    Live each season as it passes; breathe the air, drink the drink, taste the fruit, and resign yourself to the influences of each.
    Henry David Thoreau

  21. #146
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    Well this morning we have a moderate swell. 10@14. Another decent south is brewing today and should arrive before the 9th. Nothing big on the charts for the nw, but things can change quickly. You'll need to come back for Turkey Day. That is usually the season opener for big swells. Although I remember a 20'@20sec October swell about a decade ago. By afternoon the Point was empty. No one out. Couldn't get out as triple overhead waves peeled perpendicular to the point. New Brighton had like 300 people on it.

  22. #147
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    20' @ 20 sec

  23. #148
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    Mav's was 12-15' and clean today. Nobody out, due to some fuckhead getting buzzed by a grey suburban last night. Best way to surf Mavericks=post shark scare.
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piggity POW View Post
    20' @ 20 sec
    It was back in the days of waking up and turning on the weather band to get the bouy reports. Monterey Bay was still something like 5@10 at 5AM. I thought I heard it wrong, or it was a mis-speak when Pt. Arena was showing 22@25. A few hours later we popped up to 20@20. We got out early and were on the Point when the swell started to kick up. Got one of my biggest waves ever, and certainly my biggest ever on the Point that day. Went in for lunch, returned and there was just no way out. We ended up surfing the right at Bombora in the afternoon.

    Quote Originally Posted by BS720 View Post
    Mav's was 12-15' and clean today. Nobody out, due to some fuckhead getting buzzed by a grey suburban last night. Best way to surf Mavericks=post shark scare.
    Surprised to hear that. Surfed Scotts at Sunset and it was 8 foot faces. A few bigger ones, but not much. Just what I'd expect for a 10@12. Would have thought Mavs was showing in the 10-12 range. And to be honest, most of the Mav chargers I know are not really afraid of sharks. It is just part of the appeal.

    BTW, those 8 foot faces were really fun and a bit thicker than I would have expected for the short period.

    The Lane looked real good around 2PM. Gotta love these fall-lite swells. Just enough size to be fun, but not as demanding as a real swell.

  25. #150
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    ^^Yeah, I was surprised and stoked to see it empty. Sloat was pretty big yesterday morning. Definitely past the 12' mark. Last night it had toned down a bit. Looking forward to some 20 @ 20, so I can just watch!
    "Yo!! Brentley! Ya wanna get faded before work?"

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