Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

I like that property line.

When I use feet for surf height it generally means the wall, or face height, of the wave. Unless I denote a period, and then that is a buoy reading.

Theoretically, with a buoy reading of 12.5'@15s you'd get surf at 18.75 feet (12.5x1.5) at an average exposed break. A lot more comes into play with bathymetry, shoreline, etc. it can break bigger or smaller.

I was always sitting or on my belly. So exact heights, I'm not sure of. I don't think it was TOH out, but maybe those bigger ones were.

We were chatting when a solid wave came through and slipped underneath us. Had we been paddling for it, it would have been an easy grab into a rather large pit that lined up fast. I know for sure that wave was well OH, but hard to say otherwise. Maybe it was DOH plus, cause it obviously really stood up. But no way of knowing from the back. Based on where that thing broke, if it were DOH, then for sure the big ones were TOH where they were breaking.

I don't go out into huge stuff anymore and I was never pushing boundaries of any kind. But once the sure is hitting DOH on the sets at a break that is heavy, it is just big. I think how clean and ordered the surf it what really sets days apart.


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[PeachesNCream]

Thanks again for the board advice y’all. I actually ended up pulling the trigger on that 7’8 Stewart that CCS had posted. Seems like a pretty sweet board. I took it out this morning and it kicked my ass. Wasn’t a great day, but I didn’t catch a single wave and got a hell of a shoulder workout. Also just felt completely different being on a hard board and sitting that deep in the water, confidence took a hit. I’ll definitely be spending lots of time on the “foamy longboard” still.

Took the 7’8 “egg” again today. Felt better than the first time. Still didn’t stand up on wave, but at least I caught one and felt better paddling around.

I just bought this board, but wondering if a longboard is a better fit, or at least a beneficial addition. My foamy is water logged and Tourmaline is where I spend most of my time and everyone seems to be in longboards. Also seems like surfboards don’t decrease in value all that fast so it doesn’t seem to be a sunk cost


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[Ottime]

I started surfing at 13 surfing in southern Maine. owned a longboard by the time I was 16. While I'm not a long board per se, I still own that same longboard. It's a 1963 Rick, classic big wave long board. If I had the money and space I would own two more. One would be a new, but classic 50/50 rail nose rider and the third would be one of those better soft tops (hard bottom) board.

Point being - longboards are a great part of any quiver. We willhave small days and the only place breaking will be a longboard wave and that is still a ton of fun.

Don't break the bank, but keep an eye out for a long board. Not sure how a foamy gets water logged, but if that does happen, I assume it is done. And heavy.

Keep getting out on your egg. You may want to find a different wave. But every single minute you spend on that thing - paddling, standing, even carrying it down to the water - will vastly improve your surfing. Keep at it. Get stronger. And it will all come into view. Ideally 3-5 days a week.

And even a 20 minute session is better than not surfing at all. Especially while you are new and still learning a lot every time out.


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[PeachesNCream]

I started surfing at 13 surfing in southern Maine. owned a longboard by the time I was 16. While I'm not a long board per se, I still own that same longboard. It's a 1963 Rick, classic big wave long board. If I had the money and space I would own two more. One would be a new, but classic 50/50 rail nose rider and the third would be one of those better soft tops (hard bottom) board.

Point being - longboards are a great part of any quiver. We willhave small days and the only place breaking will be a longboard wave and that is still a ton of fun.

Don't break the bank, but keep an eye out for a long board. Not sure how a foamy gets water logged, but if that does happen, I assume it is done. And heavy.

Keep getting out on your egg. You may want to find a different wave. But every single minute you spend on that thing - paddling, standing, even carrying it down to the water - will vastly improve your surfing. Keep at it. Get stronger. And it will all come into view. Ideally 3-5 days a week.

And even a 20 minute session is better than not surfing at all. Especially while you are new and still learning a lot every time out.


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Yeah, I think a longboard could be nice in addition to the egg and thanks for the encouragement. I’ll keep at it. New wetsuit should come in today so that should make the mornings more enjoyable and easier to get out more. Any suggestions on a wave? Earlier this week the wind pushed me down from tourmo to PB and PB was just close out city.

My foamy is getting water logged because the plastic on the bottom of the board has started to separate from the fin box. There’s a gap there and the back end of the board is significantly heavier when I get out of the water vs when I was gone for two weeks. I’ve tried to fix it once with epoxy but didn’t quite get it, I’ll try again once it dries out enough.


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[CascadeCrudSkier]

There are a lot of different variables at play when looking at waves. If you're dead set on only surfing Tourmaline then a longboard is your best option since that's about the mellowest/softest wave in San Diego county. Old Mans up at San Onofre is even more forgiving for beginners but that's an hour away. La Jolla Shores and the San Elijo area up in Cardiff are also relatively mellow but not as much as Tourmaline.

The waves get steeper the further south you go from Tourmaline. Your new board will work well at the pumphouse, which is the next set of peaks south of the tourmaline parking lot. It's still generally pretty mellow but steeper than Tourmaline. Lots of variables will determine the quality of those waves. PB doesn't handle long period swells very well, it's best on mid period and can be quite fun on big wind swell (short period) days. Tide is also important, it's going to close out more on low tides and less so on higher tides. When you add in the conditions of the sand bars and the wind you're suddenly performing multi-variable calculus to determine whether it'll be good or not.

Just keep paddling the new board and get mileage on it. It's not a linear progression, it'll happen gradually and some days you'll feel like you're not progressing, others you'll feel like you're really coming along. The only better way to improve your surfing is going surfing.

[PeachesNCream]

There are a lot of different variables at play when looking at waves. If you're dead set on only surfing Tourmaline then a longboard is your best option since that's about the mellowest/softest wave in San Diego county. Old Mans up at San Onofre is even more forgiving for beginners but that's an hour away. La Jolla Shores and the San Elijo area up in Cardiff are also relatively mellow but not as much as Tourmaline.

The waves get steeper the further south you go from Tourmaline. Your new board will work well at the pumphouse, which is the next set of peaks south of the tourmaline parking lot. It's still generally pretty mellow but steeper than Tourmaline. Lots of variables will determine the quality of those waves. PB doesn't handle long period swells very well, it's best on mid period and can be quite fun on big wind swell (short period) days. Tide is also important, it's going to close out more on low tides and less so on higher tides. When you add in the conditions of the sand bars and the wind you're suddenly performing multi-variable calculus to determine whether it'll be good or not.

Just keep paddling the new board and get mileage on it. It's not a linear progression, it'll happen gradually and some days you'll feel like you're not progressing, others you'll feel like you're really coming along. The only better way to improve your surfing is going surfing.

Surfed pump house a lot last summer. I agree, that’s the sweet spot for that board. I was there yesterday afternoon, it was low tide and windy but was able to stand up on one, but fell over right away. Progress tho. Then got pushed south with the wind and it was closeouts. I do better at tourmo, my hip flexibility sucks so my pop ups are slow, I could really work on that.

Not dead set on tourmo/pump house, that’s just the easiest during the week. Besides pump house, any other spots you’d recommend for that board? Or is that what you listed?


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[PeachesNCream]

Went to pipes this morning and brought the funboard. Didn’t catch much for an hour and a half and then caught one wave in. First real wave on that board. Even with just the one wave I could feel how turny and fun that board will be. Stoooooooked


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[Ottime]

True on some days being better than others. That never ends. I've got 39 years of surfing under my belt and some days everything clicks and others I can struggle to get a decent wave. That's kind of what makes it so awesome.

The offshores have been strong. Same as those winds down south. This morning was especially strong with white caps just off shore. Went north to look at Old Man's and was considering it. The left was going pretty nicely from time to time. The paddle out looked like work. And then a buddy showed up on the cliff. I said hello and he asked me if I heard or was told by Aloe... I had no idea.

A group was surfing the south side of the reef. It's pretty tucked in and nearshore. Seals were acting kind of nutty. About thirty yard outside a shark burst the surface and snatched a juvenile seal and snapped it in two. Blood exploded everywhere. Then went in and one of them alerted others who were out at Old Man's. About three stayed out at Old Man's. It's sort of far away, but not really.

As we were chatting, about 100 yards outside of the south end the water began to churn. I thought I might have seen a fun race across the water just before but can't be sure. Others saw the shark break surface several times. And redness. I mostly just saw white, splashing foam well outside of any boil. And then a round slick. The bits were in it instantly.

Watched for a bit more and decided to surf somewhere else this morning. They ended up being Scott's. OH. Clean. The winds were blowing directly off here. Some fun ones for sure but I got a killer wave toward the end. Dying 11 second period swell is what I was mostly surfing but a fresh long period about 4.5@18 was showing up. That good wave was for sure this new swell. OH and roped all the way into the inside. Then the tide dropped and it never showed quite like that again.

Looks like another decent week.


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[subtle plague]

I like that property line.

When I use feet for surf height it generally means the wall, or face height, of the wave. Unless I denote a period, and then that is a buoy reading.

Theoretically, with a buoy reading of 12.5'@15s you'd get surf at 18.75 feet (12.5x1.5) at an average exposed break. A lot more comes into play with bathymetry, shoreline, etc. it can break bigger or smaller.

I was always sitting or on my belly. So exact heights, I'm not sure of. I don't think it was TOH out, but maybe those bigger ones were.

We were chatting when a solid wave came through and slipped underneath us. Had we been paddling for it, it would have been an easy grab into a rather large pit that lined up fast. I know for sure that wave was well OH, but hard to say otherwise. Maybe it was DOH plus, cause it obviously really stood up. But no way of knowing from the back. Based on where that thing broke, if it were DOH, then for sure the big ones were TOH where they were breaking.

I don't go out into huge stuff anymore and I was never pushing boundaries of any kind. But once the sure is hitting DOH on the sets at a break that is heavy, it is just big. I think how clean and ordered the surf it what really sets days apart.


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Thanks for your clarification. I got used to being on high alert in Indo when the swell was supposed to reach 6 foot+ because that meant it was going into the DOH range. And I knew to only watch any 10 foot swell at the warung at the exposed breaks because it was fucking massive.

I never had any of that here in Europe but last year's 8.5 @14 at the protected gnarly rivermouth translated to 5@16 Indo ( solid 3m faces) to me. Breaking in head high water I was fucking terrified because I had not seen such power in years. ( Head high this year broke in chest high water).

The exposed reef breaks like bloody foreland must have been Easily DOH+ last year+