You can see the ankle snapper showing in the distance.
Been gorgeous out the past few days down here. Mostly light winds. Small mid long period swell.
The nice before the storm. Looks like there will be some weather coming.
You can see the ankle snapper showing in the distance.
Been gorgeous out the past few days down here. Mostly light winds. Small mid long period swell.
The nice before the storm. Looks like there will be some weather coming.
I’m mostly not surfing anything photo worthy but I’ve been out 13 of 14 mornings. I started surfing just a few years ago and have never been serious enough to not be a kook but I finally feel like I’m getting somewhere. It feels great. Hope I can keep it up after I start skiing again. Once the snow starts falling again I’m usually spending too much time driving and skiing. Maybe this year...
Where is home? Saw you were on the islands.
Awesome you are finding the groove. Being out daily sure does help. Once you find it, getting out regularly helps you keep moving forward. Or not losing it.
If you are in the Bay Area come winter, typically the surf is cranking while the snow is freeze/thaw and the surf is shit when we are getting freshies. Just watch the weather and get out in the surf during the January thaw. And if OB is too much, just drive the hour south.
Thanks for the encouragement! I live near south ocean beach so I usually walk to a wave around there if it’s manageable at all. I need to go to Santa Cruz more often though.
I’m just in Honolulu working for a month. I’ll be back home in a couple weeks.
So, last night I got home from work on the later side and had a couple drinks and smoked a bit. Then I remembered it was a full moon and within a few minutes I was in trunks and walking to the beach. I didn’t expect much but it was incredible. It was way easier to see/sense the waves coming than I anticipated and the first 90 minutes or so there were a ton of rideable waves. It was such a strange and magical experience. There was enough moonlight even to see the reef below the water. There were a few others out, everybody with glow sticks. So surreal. 90s r and b jams wafting out over the water from the club on shore. A few UH kids with glow sticks all over them. Unreal!
I ended up staying out almost three hours and had a huge smile on my face the whole time. It felt like surfing for the first time again.
∆∆ I'm almost always down to night surf, as long as the conditions line up. Obviously not during 20' OB, but there are other places then. Hit me up when you get back.
Love the night surf. It has been a good decade since I've been out on one. Nice thing around here is you can ride the point on a big night as you can see sewers breaking in the moon light as an indicator. The glow sticks are so you can see others if they are up and riding on the wave. So you can avoid them. Usually with the bright lights from shore you can't see paddlers until they are right on top of you. I remember once surfing right over my buddy with my fins cutting into the side of his board. Lucky for me I was riding his back up board. None of my shit got fucked up. But we kept surfing for another hour. Too much fun to stop.
kookslams always makes my days better.
Small but surfable the last couple of days. Today was not worth it. It looks like something is coming late this week. What a month October was.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
October is my favorite month of the year often. And then November. Cast comes off on the 27th.
Took my “ shortboard” out today for the first time in a couple three years. Actually caught a few waves despite it being knee high
So encouraged I think I will keep riding it
This is the first part of documentary film "Surfing Typhoons". Typhoons are from Japan:
in youtube watch?v=XHmbAz0pQCo
* Thypoon Lan
* Thypoon Malakas
* Thypoon Atsani
My friend is surfing Slater's wave pool today! So happy for him. [emoji106][emoji3]
300 seconds [emoji3]
I've always thought of surfing as just a Hawaii or California sport, but my daily work route takes me by all of these beautiful beaches with what I think are good waves and much of the time they are deserted. Is this common to other areas around the country/world? Snapped this quick while hanging off of the back of the truck last week.
Now that is pretty sick!
It is pumping down here. I mildly sprained my ankle on Friday, the first day of the swell. It is really not too bad, I could paddle out this morning, but my wife pointed out that ski season is just about here so I will be cautious. It's killing me, no surf for a week and a half, then I hurt myself on the first day of a good swell. The cameras look good in Orange County. I hope the rest of you guys are getting some, because it is pumping down here. Yesterday the Uppers cam was nuts, same with Saturday.
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
"Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."
"You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.
"I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."
Actually surfing is only a sport you can do in a remote location, in a third world country, with no attachments or relationships with other people. These are the real surfers. Vagabond fishmongers of the world keeping it real yo.
And there is not a crowd on it, then it sucks. That is just the definition. That is why when I go to a two mile long empty beach break (which is rare that any beach break is good enough to grace my footsteps) I paddle out at the only peak that has anyone at it.
Oh, and LDD, you wife is correct. Heal that up. Mine is much worse than a minor strain, but I will get out of the cast 10 weeks after injury. Missed all of October and November. And a late start to the ski season.
This Thursday looks like a dumping.
oh fuck the cuntinator has found its way to the surf forum....there goes the neighborhood ugh
MrMan=Rog for anyone living under a rock for his last 600 posts
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Ah come on PW7. It is not like he is yawning, just, as of yet post some mini stoke. And he is not even a surfer it seems. Just a garbage man.
I thought you were a jersey boy. Seems like that socal sun has softened up your skin.
ok fair enough...lets wait & see what happens
but dude has been averaging 15 posts per day (about absolutely nothing) so I bet we get color, size & consistency posts all day everyday
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
Fair bet. I won't be betting against you.
Do you have a place up in June again?
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