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  1. #5226
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    Jun 2007
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    This thread is full of stoke right now. Thanks for all posting it up.

    Xover that sucks. I have heard that Mexico is rough right now, but that is shocking

    justo - love those super ripple days after the bigger heavier day. As long of condones stay good, you can seriously have fun when the amp level goes down just a bit.

    Found some surf today. Been getting in a bit more. Still weak as fuck, but the shoulder strength is improving. Want to get it ready for October when things really start to get moving.

  2. #5227
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    Quote Originally Posted by liv2ski View Post
    I could live with that. Did you say 10 guys out?

    Attachment 384152
    And don't add up the days..the good ones are included in the other days....
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  3. #5228
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    Last surf today. I'm waiting at the ferry port right now.
    Nice trip. I'm not quite sure whether we return in two weeks in our 4 week parental leave or stay in warm France for some pounding ( warm)beachies. My ( non covid) cough says: stay war and play in the sand.
    I bought souvenirs from the local brewery. Tasty IPA that cutback.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  4. #5229
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    Jun 2004
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    Great shots as always SP!

    Fun session this morning north of the HB pier. I got in a couple of fun, if soft, chest high sessions last week on my 6'8" funshape. It was soft enough that it would not have been fun on my 6'4". I couldn't get out yesterday, unfortunately, but today was the first time I've surfed anythings solid since I got back. It was shoulder to head high, and a bit lined-up, although also somewhat walled. The tide was rising, so it was soft enough that you could take off pretty deep and hope it didn't shut down on you. I love it when HB is like that. After a decent outside section it would flatten out where you would usually get 1-2 turns you would either kick out or HB hop to the inside. You could actually make the inside doing that sometimes, which was nice. There is a strong S-N current right now, so I ended up getting in around tower 8 and out around tower 16 a few times. I will admit that I did get spoiled earlier this summer. It seemed like it was at least shoulder high from May through the end of July. When I got back in late August it was smaller, it made me appreciate the consistency we had early in the summer. I was able to get in a long session (I'm paying for it right now, it will be a late night) and I was in the water from around 745 to around 10. The water is cold for this time of year, low 60s. I, and most others around, were in fullsuits.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  5. #5230
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    Aug 2002
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    Always fun sitting in your office and Monday morning quarterbacking random people on the live cams in great conditions (Manasquan 2-3 but looks bigger with light offshore wind right now).
    https://www.surfchex.com/cams/manasquan-web-cam/

    Looks like some great conditions today through Friday night on the EC, but no surf for me this week.

  6. #5231
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    Jun 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Always fun sitting in your office and Monday morning quarterbacking random people on the live cams in great conditions (Manasquan 2-3 but looks bigger with light offshore wind right now).
    https://www.surfchex.com/cams/manasquan-web-cam/
    .
    I used to do that all the time from my office!

    I was a tough critic for a guy who sucks. It was mostly jealousy that I was in a corpo casual uniform while they were surfing.

    My last office was in the South Coast Metro area of Orange County. That's near John Wayne, near the South Coast Plaza, right around where the 405 and the 73 meet. Lots of my buddies were remote back then, this crew was mostly software or medical reps, and they would sometimes call me to see if I wanted to do a lunch session in Newport, knowing that I couldn't swing that. Now that I have flexibility to surf the hours they do I make sure to send a text when I'm surfing good waves and they're on a business trip to Dallas or something like that.

    Yesterday morning was really fun once again north of the HB pier. A bit smaller, but very similar to Tuesday. I was in the water from about 730 to 9, and I lucked into clean conditions and an improvement with the rising tide. The current spread the crowd out nicely, you could just let yourself drift north and sample the various peaks.

    It's looking like early next week should be good. Fingers crossed....
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  7. #5232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    I used to do that all the time from my office!

    I was a tough critic for a guy who sucks. It was mostly jealousy that I was in a corpo casual uniform while they were surfing.

    My last office was in the South Coast Metro area of Orange County. That's near John Wayne, near the South Coast Plaza, right around where the 405 and the 73 meet. Lots of my buddies were remote back then, this crew was mostly software or medical reps, and they would sometimes call me to see if I wanted to do a lunch session in Newport, knowing that I couldn't swing that. Now that I have flexibility to surf the hours they do I make sure to send a text when I'm surfing good waves and they're on a business trip to Dallas or something like that.

    Yesterday morning was really fun once again north of the HB pier. A bit smaller, but very similar to Tuesday. I was in the water from about 730 to 9, and I lucked into clean conditions and an improvement with the rising tide. The current spread the crowd out nicely, you could just let yourself drift north and sample the various peaks.

    It's looking like early next week should be good. Fingers crossed....
    Calling me an intermediate might be a stretch, still doesn’t stop me from scoffing about a guy on cam missing a good wave or botching it, while I’m over an hour away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #5233
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    Dec 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    Calling me an intermediate might be a stretch, still doesn’t stop me from scoffing about a guy on cam missing a good wave or botching it, while I’m over an hour away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    ha!

    https://www.cinnamonrainbows.com/surf-cam-report

  9. #5234
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    ^^ That looks super fun, although pretty busy as well.

    Watching cams (again WFH 1+ hr away) and lots of big closeouts w period being larger than most breaks can handle. Buddy was out this morning in S NJ and said it was fun but had to choose waves carefully.

  10. #5235
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTskibum View Post
    ^^ That looks super fun, although pretty busy as well.

    Watching cams (again WFH 1+ hr away) and lots of big closeouts w period being larger than most breaks can handle. Buddy was out this morning in S NJ and said it was fun but had to choose waves carefully.
    Yeah, it's busy. The point breaks are ridiculously busy right now.

  11. #5236
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    Aug 2007
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    Some head high sets today and on tap for tomorrow too.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  12. #5237
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    Jun 2004
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    Morning session in the Cottons/Uppers area today.

    It ended up being lots of fun, although not quite as epic as I had hoped for. The wind got on it a bit, but it was still a blast. About a foot overhead, with one really nice early section for a top turn and then a good foam bounce section to finish it off. It was a bit walled, so I only found one that really lined up for 100 yards or so, but it was still a blast. Barbedwires is an easy wave to surf, so on a day like this even a kook like me can drive(speaking conditionally here) off the bottom and make a nice top turn if the section allows. I didn't venture to either Uppers or Cottons, just stuck with the Barbedwires area in the middle. The crowd was spread out where I was. It was a bit lully at times, in addition to being a bit walled, but still worth the drive. Surfline had claimed the water was 64-66 so I wore a spring, which was a mistake. It was definitely more like 62-64 and the sun never came out. I was getting a bit cold after an hour and a half when my leash broke after I couldn't pull off a foam bash to finish a wave. I decided that was enough of that. I always forget how far out you can be even at Barbedwires, when you have to swim in to get your board you really see how far out we are.

    I should be able to get in at least one more Trestles session during this swell. If I want to do a leaving in the dark dawn patrol it might be two more. It's so good right now that I want to take advantage.

    One thing that is surprising is that 36th street doesn't look like it is getting all that much swell on the cams. That is surprising for a swell like this, usually if the upper jetties in Newport are 4-7 36th street should be at least around head high.

    I might have to hit up a Crystal Cove spot. With this much swell those places can get going.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  13. #5238
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    The only localism I endorse. I Hope they "got some".
    Germans, of course

    https://stabmag.com/news/this-is-wha...s-in-portugal/
    Last edited by subtle plague; 09-17-2021 at 06:06 AM.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  14. #5239
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    Jun 2004
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    What a week it has been.

    Tuesday I couldn't swing a Trestles session, but I surfed 32nd in Newport. It was fun, although a bit walled if you were not at the jetty. Still, if you were shrewd you could pick out some fun ones. It was about head high, maybe a bit overhead. The northern streets were much bigger but walled.

    Wednesday and Thursday mornings I went down to Trestles. I surfed the wires/Cottons area both times and it was insane. I was in the water from around 8-11, knowing surfing for that long would mean a late night, but it was worth it.

    Wednesday was pretty much the day. Surfline was calling Cotton's 5-8 and orange. Barbedwires was maybe a foot or two overhead, with long, lined-up lefts. They were a bit shifty, but I still got a couple that were absolutely insane from around the lifeguard tower. If you got the right ones they would wrap for close to 100 yards. You would kick out right south of Cotton's after the inside section, and I would usually stay in that zone for a bit, to get a couple more. That area was not quite as good, but there was non one there so you could pick off head high lefts and the occasional right easily. It was a day for both quality and quantity. That area is easy to surf, even when it is double overhead. It is soft and easy to catch, but you can drive a nice bottom turn and really lay into a good top turn, then flow down and maybe get a couple more turns in. It was one of my best days of the year so far.

    Thursday was a about a foot smaller and a bit less consistent, but still head high to maybe a foot overhead on the sets. I actually might have had more fun on Thursday, as they were a bit easier to line up. While it was a bit smaller, the head high to slightly overhead lefts were an absolute blast, easy to surf the way it had been the day before. One of the great things about the Trestles area is that it makes you feel like you are a better surfer than you actually are, because the waves are just so easy to surf. Easy takeoffs, easy to set up your bottom turns, top turns and the occasional lip bash. A kook like me can even drive a bottom turn and put some muscle into a slash. That is saying something.

    The water is still a bit cool for this time of year, but this was probably my best week of the year for surf. I've been having to pull late nights to get my work done due to 3 hour Trestles sessions, but it is so worth it. Weeks like these make me feel very lucky I have the flexibility I do. A few years ago it would have been evening sessions after work, which still would have been great, but I feel lucky to go when I do.

    I really hope the rest of you guys got some from this. Yesterday I really had to catch up on work, and my body needed a rest anyway, but the north side of the pier looks good right now.

    Here is a shot from this week. It doesn't really do it justice.Click image for larger version. 

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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  15. #5240
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    That Sounds fun.

    I'll be in Southern France hoping for good sandbars from Wednesday on. Parental leave (paid of course, we have communism here ) here I come. Wheeee.

    Im still suffering from the Bronchitis I got in ireland. I've been coughing my guts out for Three weeks. It has been improving a bit since the doc put me on antibiotics last week but I'm not sure I'll be ready to surf Wednesday. I lasted two hours on Monday (first day of school) when I tried to work. I coughed every 5 sentences. The students were kind of pitying me

    Forecast looks nice though.

    And long duc: Baqueira is better than mammoth.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  16. #5241
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    Sep 2018
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    East Coast OBX waves for me again starting tomorrow. 2-5 ft in the forecast, which means the good spots will be pretty decent - so life could be worse. Ready for it.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  17. #5242
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    Aug 2002
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    Got in 8 hrs of surfing over last day and a half in NJ. Fri was pretty big but crosswinds made it tricky, ended up going into the inlet between Atlantic City and Brig for smaller but cleaner waves. Then Sat was really good 3-5’ light offshores in the morning for 3 hrs before heading home. Wish I coulda stuck around but pretty wiped, we heard winds picked up after we left. Imagine this morning was pretty good down there. Riding mountain bikes doesn’t prepare you for multiple 2-3 hour surf sessions in east coast beach breaks w no easy paddles out. So tired!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #5243
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    Mar 2006
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    California
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    A few days ago on the other side of the planet

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    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

  19. #5244
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    Oh nice warm reefs.. how I miss them.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  20. #5245
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    So good to see so much stoke in here lately.
    Here's a few recent ones from my neck of the woods (Devon / Cornwall border SW UK).

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    Last edited by Hayduke; 09-21-2021 at 07:19 AM.
    _____________________________________

  21. #5246
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    Indeed, some good stoke going in this thread.

  22. #5247
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    Jun 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post

    And long duc: Baqueira is better than mammoth.
    I believe it

    I have always been interested in finding video clips and picture from that place. You hear things about Andorra and the French Alps, but you don't hear much about the Pyrenees so I've always been curious. The stuff I have seen looks great though, I can't wait to see the contest this winter.

    Heal up. Where are you going in France? Lacanau? Biarritz? I don't really know those area well, I've just seen footage of Hossegor and the contest spots. For fun I've done the google distance stuff from Biarritz to Baqueria Beret and it seemed reasonable. I'm not sure if the actual driving conditions would be that way though. A place with good waves, nice beaches and skiing that is way better than Mammoth 4 hours away sounds like all sorts of win.

    Do they hire statisticians and data scientists in Biarritz?
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  23. #5248
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    Jun 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by soul_skier View Post
    A few days ago on the other side of the planet

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    That looks just like the lefts this morning at River Jetties!

    Except the ones I was surfing were smaller, maybe chest to shoulder high, far more walled, colder, more polluted and crowded with aggro Newport dudes still pissed because they didn't get that Quiksilver sponsorship they totally deserved and had to go to college and get real jobs instead.

    VTSki,

    That looks really fun. The only part of the Jersey shore I have been to is Long Branch in September for a wedding three years ago. It looked like an area that could be fun, with all of the jetties, but it was small and I was partying and not really motivated to rent a funshape and paddle out. I had a really good time in the area. Unfortunately by the time we got our AMEX bill from the trip the marriage was already essentially over, but the wedding sure was fun.

    Hayduke,

    That looks like some BEAUTIFUL coast! I particularly like that last shot, that left looks right up my alley.

    I really need to get a better phone and to learn to take better pictures.

    Despite my complaints above the last few mornings have actually been quite fun at River Jetties. Typically surfing from around 715 to 830, catching the rising tide and clean conditions. Chest/Shoulder high with nice decent shape. Interestingly enough the Santa Ana rivermouth has closed up currently.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  24. #5249
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    Sep 2018
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    3,672
    Absolute sheet conditions here in OBX but I still got some. Every day on the board is a good day.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  25. #5250
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Norte del río
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    Quote Originally Posted by soul_skier View Post
    A few days ago on the other side of the planet

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    Where is this?
    _____________________________________

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