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  1. #5076
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    Quote Originally Posted by PB View Post
    Went to UCSD 1969-71, pretty much had Blacks all to our selves, even on really good days like that. Studies definitely suffered; had to transfer to the Central Valley to salvage my academic career.
    Wow!

    I can only imagine what it would have been like back then.

    At UCSB it seemed like the first big NW swell would arrive during fall finals. In fact, I think that happened every year I was there. Literally.

    Friday morning was really fun in Newport. I surfed 36th street, and while it was not epic, only shoulder high, it was only me and one other guy at the jetty getting clean lefts. The better ones were about 100 yards. Any jetty session in Newport where you get that is rare. When you can actually pick which set wave you want, and you let some decent ones go by, you know you are lucky.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  2. #5077
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    My son forwarded this instapic. Nat is pretty good.

  3. #5078
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    My son forwarded this instapic. Nat is pretty good.
    That's how I imagine I surf on my backhand.

    I try to avoid seeing actual shots or video of myself so that I don't have to be confronted with reality.

    Today is pumping at Blackie's and the lower jetties in Newport. The high tide is hurting it right now, but late morning will probably be good. I am too busy today, so I won't have a window in all likelihood. Hopefully some of the rest of you guys get some.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  4. #5079
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    The last couple of days have been a blast north of the HB pier. I would call it shoulder to occasionally head high, with good shape and clean. Christmas was great, as the crowd was very limited. Yesterday was more crowded, but still okay if you found holes, the crowd was pretty spread out. It really was not much different from a normal HB day with these conditions.

    I will probably go in about an hour. My wife got me a new 3/2 Psycho One O'neill suit, which is making the 56-58 degree water a bit better. My old suit was a bit leaky.

    Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all of you. I hope this swell is hitting where you guys are. I will say I expected a bit more size, but I can't complain. When the tide drops a bit this morning should be really fun.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  5. #5080
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    The last couple of days have been a blast north of the HB pier. I would call it shoulder to occasionally head high, with good shape and clean. Christmas was great, as the crowd was very limited. Yesterday was more crowded, but still okay if you found holes, the crowd was pretty spread out. It really was not much different from a normal HB day with these conditions.

    I will probably go in about an hour. My wife got me a new 3/2 Psycho One O'neill suit, which is making the 56-58 degree water a bit better. My old suit was a bit leaky.

    Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all of you. I hope this swell is hitting where you guys are. I will say I expected a bit more size, but I can't complain. When the tide drops a bit this morning should be really fun.
    Sounds awesome! Thanks for the detailed report. Really pleased with my 5.5/4 Psycho Tech I got a few months ago.

    Been pretty big here in Oregon, but had a really nice shoulder-high day last Wednesday with ultra clear skies and light winds. Managed to catch "The Great Conjunction" on the way home at an overlook which was quite stunning.




    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  6. #5081
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackstraw View Post
    My son forwarded this instapic. Nat is pretty good.
    Ripping backside attack! Well done!

  7. #5082
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    Quote Originally Posted by stalefish3169 View Post
    Sounds awesome! Thanks for the detailed report. Really pleased with my 5.5/4 Psycho Tech I got a few months ago.

    Been pretty big here in Oregon, but had a really nice shoulder-high day last Wednesday with ultra clear skies and light winds. Managed to catch "The Great Conjunction" on the way home at an overlook which was quite stunning.




    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    Those are some beautiful shots!

    The swell really arrived on Sunday. Friday and Saturday were fun, shoulder to head high, but Sunday was 4-6+. The funny thing was, it felt MUCH bigger than the 3-5 on Friday and Saturday because there was so much water moving around. There were some serious rips, an some big walls. I surfed north of the HB pier again and the current was dragging me towards the pier. I had to get out and walk back to around tower 10 a several times. Between towers 10 and 12 it was focusing on an outside bar and very consistent, I found out the hard way it was tough to get out. Between towers 8 and 10 there was a nice rip which would take you right out if you timed it right. After getting my ass kicked I discovered the rip. I got caught inside by a couple of big sets. That can be fun, at least down here where it's overhead and not sketchy. Up north, where there is actual size, I would not be quite as cavalier and getting pounded. It was mostly rights, but there were some fun lefts too.

    Monday brought some much needed rain. Tuesday was big, they were calling HB 6-8+ so I opted for the lower Newport Jetties, specifically 32nd street. It was a blast, about a foot overhead and punchy. There was still some solid water moving around, I got cleaned up a couple of times, but it was really fun if you picked the right corners. Newport has a whole lot more punch than HB, at least pound for pound. I got a couple of racy lefts and rights. It can be fun to surf a steep, fast wave in Newport. I actually made a couple of deep takeoffs where I thought I was going to get pounded. A couple of other times I was way too deep. On the inside there was a closeout section that better surfers than me were hammering. I tried one floater on that section, one I had really no hope of making, and became acquainted with the bottom. Newport tends to be pretty shallow. If I didn't suck I might have stalled and gotten a nice barrel on one. One of the difficult things about surfing is missing those barrels, THEN wanting the exact same wave back, because NOW you know to stall for the section, and not getting the carbon copy again. That's one of the things that would be nice about wave pools. One of my favorite areas at Mammoth is the Paranoids. When they get good windbuff you can sometimes find a nice windridge to slash, and then keep coming back to hit it again on every lap. Surfing is not quite like that, at least not for surfers like me. I missed a barrel on Tuesday that I would really like to have back. I don't get barreled much, and it sucks to waste that opportunity.

    Wednesday was fun too. It had dropped to around shoulder high+ at the 32nd street jetty, but it was still clean and fun. Unfortunately I felt out of sorts. It was one of those days where you are never in sync with the sections. I got some fun ones, it was consistent and the crowd was not bad so you could snag wave after wave, but I always seemed to take off a bit too deep and miss the best section. It was fun, but it was one of those days. Tuesday I surfed well, conditional upon the fact that I suck, despite missing what should have been a nice barrel. Wednesday, I just didn't seem to have it. On the ones I got that did line up there was a nice section on the inside that I kept miss-timing, the better guys were driving a bottom turn and really belting it. I got a couple where the section lined up for me, I just never seemed to be properly in sync. Being as I'm off this week all three sessions were 3+ hours. It's great to have a new wetsuit. The water is cold down here, at least for us. Surfline is calling it 56-58.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  8. #5083
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    Had a really sick day on Tuesday here in Oregon. We got a nice shot of 5-7' with some well OH sets at 23 s and almost no wind. Got 5 or 6 waves of the type you hope to maybe get one of on good days. Surfed for like 4 hours straight knowing I had to make the most of it. Now it's back to ~20' and stormy for the foreseeable future.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  9. #5084
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    Quote Originally Posted by stalefish3169 View Post
    Had a really sick day on Tuesday here in Oregon. We got a nice shot of 5-7' with some well OH sets at 23 s and almost no wind. Got 5 or 6 waves of the type you hope to maybe get one of on good days. Surfed for like 4 hours straight knowing I had to make the most of it. Now it's back to ~20' and stormy for the foreseeable future.

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
    You guys really get pounded by lots of swell in the winter. It sucks that it has to occasionally be accompanied by lots of weather.

    Friday, Saturday and Sunday were fun. I was too busy to make it out today, but there is still lots of swell in the water down here. Yesterday afternoon I caught the 36th street jetty about a foot overhead without too many people in the water. HB was being called 5-7 by Surfline. I checked it but it was too walled, so I settled on Newport and got lucky. I even got a couple of head high lefts off the jetty. I also got my ass handed to me a couple of times. Newport gets very shallow on the inside.

    While Newport is mostly known as a summer spot, and for good reason, one nice thing about the winter here is that the lower jetties pick up more swell. The jetties from 28th to 36th are fun in the summer, but they get less S/SSW/SW exposure than the upper streets. However, the lower streets have better sand bars between the jetties. The upper jetties, 56th and all, are fun right at the jetty, but the sand bars not directly at the jetty are not as good as they used to be. Obviously the peaks right at the jetty get really packed. I have almost given up checking Newport in the summer unless it is big enough for the lower jetties to come to life. The lower jetties come to life in the winter more frequently, they face more west than the upper jetties, and the peaks are simply better. I don't know if what they are doing at the mouth of the Santa Ana river is screwing up the upper street sand bars, but something is different.

    Blackie's, the break between the Newport Pier and the 28th street jetty right in front of the dive bar, does well on west swells. While it can get good, it usually seems very crowded for reasons that are not clear to me. The peaks at 30th or 34th street are usually just as good and not nearly as packed. Perhaps I'm missing something.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  10. #5085
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    Been going off here for weeks.

    We get plenty of swell in the winter. This season it has been enough to have weeks of surf in town rarely dropping below head high and peaking at TOH or more at Middle Peak, and DOH-TOH on the west side points. That means it is even bigger outside of town on the west facing coastline. Town faces south to east-south-east. Even on those biggest days this season, you could find waist to Chet high surf around here. Even on the smallest days, you could find overhead surf - conditions permitting, The west facing coastline is much more raw and open to any disturbance (multiple swells, wind, general chop). But it is an incredible place to surf in late fall and winter. Drought years tend to be better as we still get storms to make swell, but not have them run into us directly. Storms bring south winds, fuck it up every where and eaves the open coast a jumble for days afterwards. Going off again today.

  11. #5086
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    Mar 2006
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    The bay area has been interesting over the last few weeks. Mortals like myself that recognize that 20' OB is a different sport all together have been a bit limited in uncrowded options but the point breaks in SF have been great and some of the more protected spots have been the stuff of dreams.

    In other news I found a brand new pair of sz L winter patagonia lobster claw gloves when packing for a move. Free for the cost of shipping if anyone needs to stay warm surfing somewhere cold.
    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

  12. #5087
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    You guys really get pounded by lots of swell in the winter. It sucks that it has to occasionally be accompanied by lots of weather.

    Friday, Saturday and Sunday were fun. I was too busy to make it out today, but there is still lots of swell in the water down here. Yesterday afternoon I caught the 36th street jetty about a foot overhead without too many people in the water. HB was being called 5-7 by Surfline. I checked it but it was too walled, so I settled on Newport and got lucky. I even got a couple of head high lefts off the jetty. I also got my ass handed to me a couple of times. Newport gets very shallow on the inside.

    While Newport is mostly known as a summer spot, and for good reason, one nice thing about the winter here is that the lower jetties pick up more swell. The jetties from 28th to 36th are fun in the summer, but they get less S/SSW/SW exposure than the upper streets. However, the lower streets have better sand bars between the jetties. The upper jetties, 56th and all, are fun right at the jetty, but the sand bars not directly at the jetty are not as good as they used to be. Obviously the peaks right at the jetty get really packed. I have almost given up checking Newport in the summer unless it is big enough for the lower jetties to come to life. The lower jetties come to life in the winter more frequently, they face more west than the upper jetties, and the peaks are simply better. I don't know if what they are doing at the mouth of the Santa Ana river is screwing up the upper street sand bars, but something is different.

    Blackie's, the break between the Newport Pier and the 28th street jetty right in front of the dive bar, does well on west swells. While it can get good, it usually seems very crowded for reasons that are not clear to me. The peaks at 30th or 34th street are usually just as good and not nearly as packed. Perhaps I'm missing something.
    I think the big parking lot at the pier makes blackies more crowded.

    My cousin is on 33rd so surfed with him there quite a bit, and never found it to be too crowded (or if it was, easy still to get waves with the number of kooks that surfed there)

  13. #5088
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    Anyone see footage from that jaws session this past weekend?

  14. #5089
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    Yeah, crazy footage coming out of Hawaii. I really liked JJF's barrel from Oahu.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/CKKWtdrg...d=pcvcs277lsyq

    Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

  15. #5090
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtran10 View Post
    I think the big parking lot at the pier makes blackies more crowded.

    My cousin is on 33rd so surfed with him there quite a bit, and never found it to be too crowded (or if it was, easy still to get waves with the number of kooks that surfed there)
    The parking lot definitely has something to do with Blackie's, but I think it is also that the wave lends itself to longboarding. It doesn't tend to be quite as steep as 28th or 32nd.

    The 33rd area is not too bad for crowds. If the jetty at 32nd is pumping it can have a pack, but when you get up to second base, 33rd, it is usually not all that competitive. I have also found that sometimes you get sneaker sessions right at the jetty because of a minor change. You don't tend to get those before, of after work. It is one of the reasons I love not being tied to my desk from 7-5. Back when I had to be in an office it made it tough to get those mid-day sessions where the crowd misses a subtle change.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  16. #5091
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    Here is the Surfline write up on the JJF barrel:

    https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/w...ehemoth/110028

    That was berzerk on a completely different level.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  17. #5092
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    This generation has quickly changed big wave surfing from paddling from the shoulder and racing for dear life, to surfing these waves like they were double over head point breaks. Itís mind blowing the progression.

  18. #5093
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Been going off here for weeks.

    We get plenty of swell in the winter. This season it has been enough to have weeks of surf in town rarely dropping below head high and peaking at TOH or more at Middle Peak, and DOH-TOH on the west side points. That means it is even bigger outside of town on the west facing coastline. Town faces south to east-south-east. Even on those biggest days this season, you could find waist to Chet high surf around here. Even on the smallest days, you could find overhead surf - conditions permitting, The west facing coastline is much more raw and open to any disturbance (multiple swells, wind, general chop). But it is an incredible place to surf in late fall and winter. Drought years tend to be better as we still get storms to make swell, but not have them run into us directly. Storms bring south winds, fuck it up every where and eaves the open coast a jumble for days afterwards. Going off again today.
    Speaking with my kids, I cannot believe how many people have been swept off the beaches into the water lately. How many are still missing? Horrible!

    They were up at Mavericks on one of the big days and they said driving home people are playing in the shore break at Waddell. They were horrified by the ignorance.

  19. #5094
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    Not everyone playing in the shore break is ignorant. No way you can assess that when driving by. You can actually do is safely on a huge day. Waddell is not really the place one would typically get pulled out either. Not saying they were not kooks, but the surf pushes pretty hard toward shore along Waddell.

    Most people get pulled off rocks while watching surf from what they assume is a safe spot. Other beaches are more dangerous with more established rips.

    Iíve gotten so used to it. Happens every year. A few years back a newlywed couple were taking pictures on a rock when the wife got swept in. Husband dove in after her. She was rescued. He was never found.

    People do stupid shit all the time. I was passed the other day in traffic moving 85, by someone weaving in and out going at least 100mph. Iím not surprised that folks donít respect the ocean.

  20. #5095
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    Quote Originally Posted by stalefish3169 View Post
    Yeah, crazy footage coming out of Hawaii.
    Here's more on it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtNi47axQUo
    "... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"

  21. #5096
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Not everyone playing in the shore break is ignorant.
    Hot tip right there Ott, but based on how many have been swept out, there is a lot of ignorance out there.

  22. #5097
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    Oh for sure. I have not been following it this year, but typically it is being pulled off the rocks and not the sand that leads to it.

    A few years back a bunch of photogs and spectators got swept down the hill/cliff at Mavs from a big set.

    Big waves out east might run up a beach and even splash up rocks but they donít come close to comparing to 20-25 second swells that can run up a cliff and grab you.


    No Cali but Kauai, onnthe west side one season and watched a 250# dude just playing in the shore breaks. Surf was on the rise. Enough that we surfed the SW corner to get some protection. He was acting like a sea floating just outside the 4-8í shorepound and just inside the 15í breakers. Dude knew what he was doing.

  23. #5098
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Anyone see footage from that jaws session this past weekend?
    You probably saw this but holy fuck it blew my mind.


  24. #5099
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    Yeah. It is really insane.

    I dabbled in big surf for a decade and have always had respect for paddle in surf. I know a lot of people who have towed for a while and have even led the movement here. But these guys are killing it in this surf and really demonstrating what a tow assist can allow for. Insane.

  25. #5100
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    Quote Originally Posted by yeahman View Post
    You probably saw this but holy fuck it blew my mind.

    Justine Dupont FTW

    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Yeah. It is really insane.

    I dabbled in big surf for a decade and have always had respect for paddle in surf. I know a lot of people who have towed for a while and have even led the movement here. But these guys are killing it in this surf and really demonstrating what a tow assist can allow for. Insane.
    It's been my impression that it's really frowned upon to be towing at Jaws when conditions allow for paddling. In the footage from the 16th it doesn't look paddle-able, hence the gonzo tow fest.

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