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  1. #5526
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    My armchair
    Posts
    4,825
    Was down a month ago Tran. Only had "sun" for like a 1/2 day for a week. Water is staying unusually cold; have had warmer days in mid January. Weird spring/summer so far down there ......
    "... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"

  2. #5527
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    17,963

  3. #5528
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,866
    Quote Originally Posted by Xover View Post
    Was down a month ago Tran. Only had "sun" for like a 1/2 day for a week. Water is staying unusually cold; have had warmer days in mid January. Weird spring/summer so far down there ......
    water still hovering around 62/63, definitely cold. not too much swell in the water but enough to have fun on the longboard. Crazy that even inland is staying grey many days. Not mad about it as the high 60s daytime temps are pretty comfortable.

  4. #5529
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,231
    It has been cold and gray for sure.

    I've started to get in the water again. I had a couple of good Cottons days last week. The surf has been decent since mid-May, some good days and plenty of rideable stuff.

    The weather really has been weird. Just about the only sun I saw in May was in Mammoth and Baldy. There have been a few blips, but normally the gray burns off here. This year it has just stayed gloomy. With good surf I'll take it, but it would be nice to see some sun.

    My wife and I actually went to Scottsdale last weekend, just for drinks and a pool party. We wanted to feel like it was summer. The Valley Ho was running a nice special, so we hopped on it. We had been planning to hit up the Hard Rock in San Diego, but we wanted pool weather, and it was just too gloomy. With the special and flying on points it was actually cheaper to do 3 days in Scottsdale. I can deal with it because there has been okay surf, but it would be great to see the sun again.

    Scottsdale felt like the first time I had really seen the sun since May 20th, at Baldy, which was closing day. If weather like this is what it takes to get a winter like we just had....I'll take it!!
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  5. #5530
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,548
    First surf since last fall while on vaca to DE/MD. Summer crowds havenít kicked in, so reasonable crowds last few days and decent waves. Yesterday ~3í w light offshores made for some great conditions.

    Today took my daughter and friend dad/son for surf lessons while I got some time in the water. Maybe better than catching waves myself is watching your kid catch their first ones!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #5531
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,231
    Sunday I went down to the Barbedwire's/Cottons area.

    It was fun, although not epic. Clean, and chest to shoulder-high, more consistently shoulder-high at Cottons. I started out at Barbedwires, and while I did get a few of the lefts that wrapped, the inconsistency and a solid crowd made for some long waits.

    Eventually I wandered over to Cottons, after the crowd had thinned. It was a bit bigger, although it was still inconsistent.

    I'm really starting to love the Bento Box in conditions like that. It just glides through dead spots, but since it is only a 6'2" you can turn it. It's much more fun than a fun-shape size board, and it glides through dead spots in a way that a traditional shortboard simply won't.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  7. #5532
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,866
    First true coldwater session ever for me on Monday at La Push, WA. Purchased a nice patagonia suit with a hood and have 3mm booties and gloves already, and that kept me plenty warm. Paddling was easier than I'd thought it would be with the thicker suit.

    Beach break with consistent waist-shoulder windswell so no lulls, just had to be in the right spot(s) and pick the right wave to get a good ride. The tide swings are so much bigger than I'm used to, it went from chilled out mushy to peaky with some sneaky head high closeouts in a matter of an hour. The pacific this far north is wild.

    We are in Victoria, BC for the month and have 2 trips booked up to Tofino for some more surf. Hoping the swell is big enough to make it out and surf the Strait a bit as well, looks like a 2 hour drive to a spot that hopefully will work while we're here.

  8. #5533
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    The west - various spots
    Posts
    458
    Quote Originally Posted by jtran10 View Post
    First true coldwater session ever for me on Monday at La Push, WA. Purchased a nice patagonia suit with a hood and have 3mm booties and gloves already, and that kept me plenty warm. Paddling was easier than I'd thought it would be with the thicker suit.

    Beach break with consistent waist-shoulder windswell so no lulls, just had to be in the right spot(s) and pick the right wave to get a good ride. The tide swings are so much bigger than I'm used to, it went from chilled out mushy to peaky with some sneaky head high closeouts in a matter of an hour. The pacific this far north is wild.

    We are in Victoria, BC for the month and have 2 trips booked up to Tofino for some more surf. Hoping the swell is big enough to make it out and surf the Strait a bit as well, looks like a 2 hour drive to a spot that hopefully will work while we're here.
    Spent a few days last week in the Tofino area. Iím still more of a beginner-intermediate but I though it was good times, especially the last day, which was up to shoulder high. I donít typically bother with booties there in summer but a lot of people do. Sun was intense every day. I donít know how you guys in more southerly locales hang out for hours in the ocean. Anybody use sunglasses while surfing? My oldest never wants to come in but her eyes pay the price afterwards.

    Iíve always thought the Strait is pretty flat in the summer but at this point you probably know more than me. Hopefully a nice swell comes through

  9. #5534
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,866
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr. Crank View Post
    Spent a few days last week in the Tofino area. I’m still more of a beginner-intermediate but I though it was good times, especially the last day, which was up to shoulder high. I don’t typically bother with booties there in summer but a lot of people do. Sun was intense every day. I don’t know how you guys in more southerly locales hang out for hours in the ocean. Anybody use sunglasses while surfing? My oldest never wants to come in but her eyes pay the price afterwards.

    I’ve always thought the Strait is pretty flat in the summer but at this point you probably know more than me. Hopefully a nice swell comes through
    Nice! We're heading to Tofino this Friday for 2 nights. Doesn't look like any swell in the strait this week, but the mtb/lake swims/paddleboarding have been great in town

  10. #5535
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Walpole NH
    Posts
    10,646

    Anyone else get some today...?

    Oh hey yíall, wish I was surfer, looks awesome. I always watch Wedge videos on YouTube and Ben Gravy, Jaime OíBrian and whatnot.
    Have you guys checked out the Lost Hills podcast? Itís fucking nuts.
    Miki Dora was a piece of garbage.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Y&opi=89978449
    crab in my shoe mouth

  11. #5536
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,231
    I'm posting a bit late, but last weekend was really fun down at Trestles.

    Friday I got in a midday session. The tide was rising and it stayed pretty clean. I surfed the Barbedwires area, the water is now around 66 or 67, which is spring suit for me. It was about head high, and there were some really fun lefts coming through. The best ones connected to the inside and you could bounce off the rights coming down from Cottons at the end. The crowd was pretty modest. Overall one of my best days this year, consistent and fun.

    Saturday I went back to the same spot. It had dropped a bit, down to shoulder high, so I decided to get some extra glide with the Bento Box.

    It ended up being the right decision. It stayed clean for the entire 3 hour session, but after a shoulder high peak there was a bit of a dead section, as there often is in this zone, before it lined up on the inside. When it is shoulder-head high you are usually okay, but when it drops to chest-shoulder it can be tough to make it to the inside. On this day the added glide from the Bento Box allowed me to make it past the dead section to the inside. I'm starting to figure out how to turn it, and it made a session which would have been okay, but with lots of bogging on a shortboard, into a truly great time. The strange thing was that it seemed to get cleaner as the day went on, which is unusual. The rights were as good as the lefts, and you could wander between the two zones, picking off a right here and a left there. It might have been as much fun as Friday.

    Sunday was similar to Saturday, except a bit bumpier. Still rideable and fun though. I brought the Bento Box again, it seems like it is perfect for a soft, but fun shoulder high wave in that region.

    Three great three hour sessions in three days. It is nice to see the sun finally out and the water warming in these parts. Combine it with good swell, or pretty good swell and the right board choice, and it reminds me of why I live here.

    I've finally decided to get Lasik, so I'm out of contacts until the surgery, which means no surfing. I'll be out of the water until late August. Hope the rest of you guys enjoy it. Given the fact that I'm going to be out of the water I'm figuring the SW, S and SSW swell train will probably really hit hard. Hopefully some of you guys can cash in.

    Here are a few shots from last weekend. The photos are not good, and my smart phone shots don't do it justice.Click image for larger version. 

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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  12. #5537
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,818
    Best of luck with surgery.

    I'm back just in time for a train of southerlies.

  13. #5538
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,866
    Strike mission paid off last night on Vancouver Island




  14. #5539
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,866
    Some shots from Tofino and the surrounding beaches from a few weeks ago. There was a long period SSW running when we were there that kept size about waist high, but period seemed a bit long without enough windswell to cross it up to get the beaches really firing as I'm sure they do in the fall. Such an amazing area.

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  15. #5540
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    At the beach
    Posts
    18,586
    I sure love that part of the world. Thanks for the reminder.
    Quote Originally Posted by leroy jenkins View Post
    I think you'd have an easier time understanding people if you remembered that 80% of them are fucking morons.
    That is why I like dogs, more than most people.

  16. #5541
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    17,963

  17. #5542
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,233
    Finally.
    Back on the Island.
    Easy start and more swell on the Horizon. 4 weeks left.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  18. #5543
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    327
    very nice^^^

    we got a couple small, clean days at Agate Beach, OR and have been driving the coast north headed to Van Island. Rain day in Canon Beach and looks like a bump in the swell today and tomorrow. I might check out Short Sands and bike trails around Oswald. First timer on the OR/WA coast and it's amazing.

  19. #5544
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,233
    Today was fun. Waiting fir the real swell and some reef Action on the weekend.

    Perfect left beachie chest to shoulder high. Just me, an English guy and some friends from Germany.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  20. #5545
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Hyperspace!
    Posts
    1,340
    Just me and some seals hanging out in Kodiak. A lot of close out but a few peelers and an offshore breeze.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  21. #5546
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,233
    Waiting for the big one here.
    The trip has been alright so far but nothing earth shattering.
    Sone good stuff tomorrow and then Code Red sun / mon right before we leave.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  22. #5547
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    Good session at the right two days ago. Today is bigger at the left but im waiting for the tide and the wind is not quite perfect.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  23. #5548
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    5,233
    Oh. Now the size is getting interesting.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  24. #5549
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    5,233
    Forgot pic..Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  25. #5550
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,233
    Woah . I went to serious Pumping indo.
    4-5 foot and proper Hollow. Sickest surf in years.
    But: I chickened out after 2 waves because I didn't want the sets on my head. Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

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