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  1. #5301
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    Oct 2003
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    Woah it's Solid overhead pushing double in the sets. Im not sure whether I belong there today...

    Edit: ok the normal sets Look Managable...Click image for larger version. 

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    Edit2: no I'll go to the reef. Double oh cleanups and me being half healthy and easily being out of breath don't go well together...
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #5302
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    Oct 2003
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    And i was hoping for this forecast....but the surf is more 4-6foot indo than Europe. Long period....
    And I'm not 100%yet. I was out of breath at solid headhigh a few days ago. I have no Business being out there.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  3. #5303
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    Uh. The clean ups at the reef were big enough. I'd have died in mundaka I mean I duckdived all of them but was totally out of breath after 3 to 4 waves.

    4 weeks of coughing do not resemble exercise and my lungs feel like 80%
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  4. #5304
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Norte del río
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    2,207
    I got fucking worked today. Out of my league. And I have cramp in my calves. How do you get calf cramp from surfing??

    Edit. Gower (Wales) Friday, Woolacombe (N. Devon) yesterday. Friday was brutal & endless paddlefest, just a battle I'm not good enough for. Woolacombe had some bombs but they all closed out. The headhigh stuff had shape but to catch them in you had to be further inside. That meant the bomb sets took me out every 20 mins or so.

    Edit2. It was special so MSW wrote about it.... https://magicseaweed.com/news/galler...-the-uk/12565/
    Last edited by Hayduke; 10-10-2021 at 10:03 AM.
    _____________________________________

  5. #5305
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Posts
    1,852
    I get the calf cramp surfing too. I think it’s how I hold my feet/toes while paddling around. In my case at least it’s definitely not from the actual standing/surfing part


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #5306
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,218
    I get calf cramps. Usually in more solid surf when my entire body is working and I've been out for a while and it is cold 55F water. Not aways, but not terribly uncommon.

  7. #5307
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,552
    Heading down to SD this Sunday for a week with boards in tow. How's the long term swell looking?

  8. #5308
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    My armchair
    Posts
    4,648
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Good enough Jtran Water has cooled down quite a bit this past week into the low 60's. Also, if you can swing it, would be much better to head down on Saturday. You'll thank me once you get South of Vegas. Doing that drive on Sunday is the absolute worst day of the week to do it because of all the SoCal'ers heading home from the weekend in Vegas. I've seen it backed up all the way from Primm to South Vegas
    "... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"

  9. #5309
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xover View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Good enough Jtran Water has cooled down quite a bit this past week into the low 60's. Also, if you can swing it, would be much better to head down on Saturday. You'll thank me once you get South of Vegas. Doing that drive on Sunday is the absolute worst day of the week to do it because of all the SoCal'ers heading home from the weekend in Vegas. I've seen it backed up all the way from Primm to South Vegas
    We ended up booking flights so are flying Sunday through 10/25. Staying at GF's mom's house in escondido. Good call on that drive on Sundays though.

    Unfortunately that means no boards in the car. If anyone has a board near the beach they wouldn't mind kicking me for an evening or two, and/or wants to get out for a session...

  10. #5310
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    My armchair
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    "... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"

  11. #5311
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    California
    Posts
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    Still a ways out but seeing forecasts like this reminds me that fall is here and the fun has started! Almost 20ft at 20s could create the scariest haunted houses I've ever seen for halloween.
    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

  12. #5312
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
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    Great session today. Headed out solo and went to my usual spot. No one out, and it is a place that can feel lonely. On the walk to the cliff, the light ESE became a moderate SSE breeze and started to rib up the face. Otherwise it look killer. Bailed, as that wind is not so good for it. Drove 10 minutes up the coast to a left that is kind of tucked behind a corner and I figured at least the wind is blowing down the wave and not up it. It ws sheet glass when I arrived. Suited up and the breeze slowly began to rise and develop and ever so slight bump. The lineup cleared out in the first twenty minutes. And I ended up getting 10 plus waves in just over an hour. Fun drops, head high walls, fast and fairly long. Not epic by any means, juts consistent. I barely waited for a wave and got out because I was tired from basically just paddling and surfing for an hour. Bonus is I was on my shortboard. 3rd day on it since getting back out. I had been riding higher volume boards in general. At one point I thought I might never get back on this thing and I today I made it work in softer more moderate waves and that is super fun. It is soooooo much looser and snappier than my high volume boards. And it locks in. Stoked.
    Last edited by Ottime; 10-19-2021 at 04:09 PM.

  13. #5313
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Norte del río
    Posts
    2,207
    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    .... I figured at least the wind is blowing down the wave and not up it.....
    Ottime, what do you mean by this? Sounds like onshore vs offshore but I don't think you mean that?
    Also, what part of the US are you in? I always enjoy scoping coastlines with google maps.

    No sea for me for over a week. Howling onshores & generally crap conditions make the drive not worth it. I've had a couple of sessions at my local break here www.thewave.com but it gets expensive and leaky wetsuit is really beginning to fuck me off. Time to shell out for some fancy #40 Yammamoto I reckon. (Any recommendations appreciated).
    _____________________________________

  14. #5314
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
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    Near Santa Cruz, CA. I generally surf outside of the bay north and west of town. The coastline there mainly runs North to South and faces West, but there are slight differences from spot to spot, whether a cove, exposed reef, protected point, curved beach break etc.

    The wind was southerly, and the first wave is a right-hander. It prefers no wind at all, but an east wind with a touch of south (100^) is straight offshore. It can handle a south east wind which if offshore, but up the wave, meaning in the opposite direction the surfer will travel. This can be great for holding up the tube. As that wind becomes more southerly, it is side shore, running up the wave. As this wind gets just a touch of west in it, it has a wide open fetch and can create small wind chops. These wind chops are ribs that travel up the wave, in the direction of the wind, and create resistance for a surfer, or little jumps depending how you look at things.

    The other wave is a left, and on a submerged point, so the wind is bending the other way. Here a SE wind (135^) is directly offshore. As the wave turns more southwesterly, it is cross shore, but down the wave with the wind blowing in the same direction of the surfer. Think if biking or skiing downwind, The wind helps propel you down the wave, and those wind chops act like little ramps to move you down the wave.

    Cross shore winds can be tough, but there are a lot of spots that are good in cross shores if you can find the right nook and cranny. Much of the surf in Hawaii gets cross shore wind. But the spots still work.

    Don't know how bad your wetsuit is, but I just aqua sealed a bunch of pulled seams in mine and feeling much warmer. Wet and stormy here for the next week. Might find a window with little wind, but it looks bleak. And too wet to ride. Guess it is project time.

  15. #5315
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,953
    Today was off the charts fun north of the HB pier.

    Head high, maybe a foot overhead on the sets. The tide was coming up, which I thought would swamp things, but that was not the case. I was actually going right mostly, but the lefts were fun too. A couple of big cleanup sets came through, I got punished a bit. It was super clean, which was nice. The water appears clean after the oil spill.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  16. #5316
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,953
    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post
    Woah it's Solid overhead pushing double in the sets. Im not sure whether I belong there today...

    Edit: ok the normal sets Look Managable...Click image for larger version. 

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    Edit2: no I'll go to the reef. Double oh cleanups and me being half healthy and easily being out of breath don't go well together...
    That looks amazing, like a freight train.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  17. #5317
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    932
    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    That looks amazing, like a freight train.
    It looks ridiculous!
    More like indo than europe.
    so sick

  18. #5318
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,218
    Cleaned up decently today. Shocking. Real swell forecast for Monday. 15@17 forecast. Mavs swell, except for the local conditions won't be ideal.

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