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  1. #5451
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    Nice bali pics. I liked balangan back in the day. I only surfed Temples because ulus has always been crowded. I don't know about 99 when I was on bali as a young tourist in my pre Internet days. I followed the printed guide to "where the surfers are", had started body Boarding the year before in waist high Euro beach breaks and thought paddling out was a good idea.

    I was brave, but didn't have time to count because I was busy with not drowning at high tide. Fun times. I climbed back on the cliff wall towards the cave.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  2. #5452
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    https://www.ksbw.com/article/santa-c...board/41300201

    Can sympathize, sea otters are fucking monsters IMO. One time out at Pleasure point, a massive silvertip cruised by the lineup hauling a very dead smaller otter with him. I'm not kidding, this otter had Charlie Manson eyes and everyone in the lineup looked around like holy shit.

    If you haven't read about sea otters and their fucked up ways, I recommend it.

  3. #5453
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    Ott,

    Great shots!!

    Ulus would probably my dream wave, if I was a bit better than I am. I might try it on a smaller day.

    It sucks to hear about the crowds there, but that is not altogether surprising.

    I wonder how many of the people with the 'herd paddle' mentality live there and how many are visiting. I could see visitors, who obviously would not know the wave as well, paddling whenever they see someone else paddle.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  4. #5454
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    ^^^ I'm pretty sure 100% of the herd were visiting surfers. The locals knew exactly where to sit. I'd often find one, and chat with them, just down stream and would take the wave they offered (cause they were passing on it) or wait for the one after they took off on. I did really miss a good number of the best waves coming through - rowing spot really makes a huge difference, but I did get a lot of B grade waves and that was good enough. The smaller days were more of a challenge at the Peak/ Racetracks, hence the paddle up to Temples. Both the high and low tide take off zones had a more sustained location, so it was easier to lineup the lineup.

    TEXASS - I'm a huge fan of my long sleeve hooded rash guard. I've never liked surfing topless, as my hairy chest also gets ripped up with the set wax. The long sleeve/hood just give me plenty of sun protection. I've got a bald/thin hair head, so the hood helps with that. It also has a small visor which helps with sun glare. I saw more than a few folks with leggings, and that would be great for the back of the knees. I'm investing in some zinc for next trip to put on the face and backof my legs/ knees. Its good to remember how little sun the back off our legs usually get. Especially if you are pale/white kind of genetics. Or live in the template zone.

    fool - yeah Stormsurf is a unique forecasting site. I use their quickest to get generally day to day trends. Then the Pacific Forecasts for longer term and more specific details. I do think they dig a lot deeper than Surfline or other sites that rely mostly on algorithms. Surfline daily report is pretty good, but I've never paid for it. The cams are good for figuring out how consistent swell is, but pay site is better for that. The caveat with Stormsurf is those guys are really only intreated in significant swells. In winter, anything with less than 12s period and less and head high kind of gets ignored. It can read "no swell of interest and the beach breaks north of town are chin high and cranking.

    Headed back to Bali in October with the family. Gonna stay four nights in Ubud and then 3 at Bingin. Balagan Beach was pretty killer the day I went over there for lunch. Picturesque. Tide was high and I did not bring my board with me that day, Want to get back thee on lower tide at mid/low. Opted to stay at Bingin w fam as there is just much more to do and walk to intuit area. Can't wait to get back and surf for a few more days.

    And reef bottles any place where I may be (1) surfing a shallow sharp reef - because you can use your feet to protect other parts of your body, and push off the bottom is need be (2) a spot that had a dry or shallow reef walk that is required to get in/out from the line up. They are also nice for walking dry reef at low tide to tide pool and such.

  5. #5455
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    I'd say reef booties depend on whether you have to walk in and out. If I came with a boat and knew the wave I usually wouldn't use them.

    Same for tides or spot where I could get in and out at a sandy spot. Always booties when harp ground contact was likely.


    And ott: balangan at dead low is a more serious wave. Mid is fun. Usually a bit hard to connect the sections Unless big. But I'm a kook ( and a lot kookier back then) so it is definitely possible even when headhigh to a bit overhead.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  6. #5456
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    Oct 2010
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    Back in the land of sandy right points in Oaxaca. Waves have been pretty good the past 4 days, but crowds have been insane. Hopefully crowds slow down a bit... pics to come

  7. #5457
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    Anyone else get some today...?

    Just got back from few sessions yesterday and this morning in NJ. Anything east facing was a nightmare of 20-30mph cross shore winds. Did find a not-so-secret sheltered spot near AC, that did pretty well all considering for some fun waves w a good crew.



    Post session beers on the jetty tasted so good, plenty more to follow. Edit - Also hard to tell, but the surfer on the wave in the water is this 10/11 y/o kid who's on day 860+ consecutive surf days that lives nearby


    This morning winds kicked up to 20-30mph but swell direction turned it into offshore wind for this spot. Couple times felt like throwing on the air-brakes right after popping up, plus waves were really getting walled up. Had a great wave I foolishly took off as a right, getting crushed by the lip and landed on my board. Shoulda gone left!! Fortunately took my foamie so that probably helped minimize injury chance, though my ribs are pretty sore still.


    Had a good beer for lunch w some Advil before heading home. Made best of questionable conditions for Hurricane Ian. Doubt many other spots faired well in NJ/DE/MD this weekend.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by VTskibum; 10-03-2022 at 01:20 PM.

  8. #5458
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Damn, the new board wont fit inside the plane. Well, it would fit but I need to take the fins off the board and maybe a door off the plane. I want to fly to Oceano CA and the Lost Coast. If I have to I will buy a plane specific board . ( One that will fit inside)

  9. #5459
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    Roof rack??

  10. #5460
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    Looks like someone's first time to bali.... I meas disneybaliland.... uluwatu is soooo 2002....you should go to deserts to really get punished.....for me I'm still traveling.... working on 2 years 7 months now.... just summited mount Olympus in greece..spent the summer climbing big mountains and paddleboarding on lefkada island.. o shit I have 8 days left on my schengen visa. Life is good

  11. #5461
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    Are you the buttahflake of the surf World?
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  12. #5462
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXASS View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Damn, the new board wont fit inside the plane. Well, it would fit but I need to take the fins off the board and maybe a door off the plane. I want to fly to Oceano CA and the Lost Coast. If I have to I will buy a plane specific board . ( One that will fit inside)
    Bigger plane?

    I bet you could strap it on the belly between the wheel struts?


    Seen a couple birds with a cage underneath for over sized items.
    watch out for snakes

  13. #5463
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    Nice! I've never actually surfed that spot. My go-to spots when it's bigger are right in front of the big geometric-shaped casino in the background of your last photo. Didn't make it out this past weekend but hoping I can swing something pre work tomorrow morning to catch the tail end of the swell.

  14. #5464
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    Quote Originally Posted by justo8484 View Post
    Nice! I've never actually surfed that spot. My go-to spots when it's bigger are right in front of the big geometric-shaped casino in the background of your last photo. Didn't make it out this past weekend but hoping I can swing something pre work tomorrow morning to catch the tail end of the swell.
    I think that's called Crystals right? Honestly if I didn't already have this boys weekend planned I woulda looked at the forecast and never considering coming down. Even then watched the Ben Gravy blog a bit during same window and he basically declared the ocean as unsurfable, he wasn't wrong. Looked like he did some of his weird novelty waves. Saw some photos up/down the Mid-Atlantic from late yesterday afternoon in DE/MD/NJ of some ridiculous barrels and relatively clean waves. I saw a snippet of Gravy's as well earlier with big barrels. Hopefully you get some goods, but looks like the swell dies quickly over next few days.

    Personally I prefer 2-3' clean over just about anything else, but then I'm a kook who mostly longboards anyway.

  15. #5465
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    Ott,

    That makes sense about visiting surfers. Cottons is not a heavy wave by any means, even when it is pushing DOH (big for a kook like me) it is really not scary. It stands up tall and it can have a bit of push, but it is not heavy if that makes sense. But when it is around head high, maybe slightly overhead, at certain tides it can peak outside, but then wait until the inside sandbar to really break. You see people who don't know how to read that paddle for the outside, which is nice because you can sit inside and just pick them off. I had a few like that this morning.

    Nice shots VT! Can you drink beers on the beaches in New Jersey? You can't in Orange County, although people do at Trestles because it is so secluded.

    It would be fun to do a surf/party trip to Atlantic City if I lived closer. Given how good the surf is out here, and how easy it is to hop on a plane (or drive) and go to Vegas I would probably pass. Someday maybe.

    On another note, if any of you guys have an interest in seeing Aerosmith at their residency go for it. We went a couple of weeks ago and it was insane. It's crazy that they can still put on a show like that at their age given what they have gone through. They have always been maybe my favorite famous band, so this was something of a bucket list thing for us.

    I set aside a window this morning to hit Trestles/Cottons and it did not disappoint. It was head high, and very clean and fun. I got in the water around 10 am and the tide was a bit high, bottom turn to cutback, then fizzle, but as the tide dropped they started to stand up and the lefts at Barbedwires started to connect. You could bottom turn to cutback, then race across the inside and bounce off the lip of the right coming from Cottons at the end. After three hours I was spent.

    I'm hoping for a mid-morning HB session tomorrow. Today's fun put me a bit behind so I have to be at least somewhat responsible tomorrow.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  16. #5466
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    Took off work yesterday and went to Oceanside Harbor. Kinda inconsistent but chest to head high on sets. Another fun day on the new board. This one is only going to work good on steeper waves as advertised but really happy with it

  17. #5467
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    Nice shots VT! Can you drink beers on the beaches in New Jersey? You can't in Orange County, although people do at Trestles because it is so secluded.

    It would be fun to do a surf/party trip to Atlantic City if I lived closer. Given how good the surf is out here, and how easy it is to hop on a plane (or drive) and go to Vegas I would probably pass. Someday maybe.
    No definitely not allowed to drink beers, but that definitely doesn't stop people from doing so. Post surf session given it was raining, winds in the 20-30mph range and an incoming hurricane on a Friday afternoon it was pretty unlikely we'd get in trouble for it. In Delaware there are a bunch of private beaches where you can openly drink all day long, not sure too many others officially allow it.

    While I surf here pretty often since my neighbor has a place in Brigantine just outside of AC, I've actually never been other than driving through. Maybe one of these days, but also kinda keeps Brig generally quieter place which is nice.

    Enjoy HB and Trestles, my sis lives in San Clemente so I've surfed Doheny and Riveria St, but haven't had the chance to get down to San Onofre, Trestles, or T-Street, but am too much of a kook for the latter two anyway.

  18. #5468
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    Oct 2010
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    Absolutely firing this morning. Surfed for nearly 4.5 hours. Missed a meeting. Up to double overhead on the bombs. Too busy for photos, but hopefully someone grabbed some. There was a water photographer bobbin around so hopefully he got some of me.

  19. #5469
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    Quote Originally Posted by subtle plague View Post
    Are you the buttahflake of the surf World?
    Nah, buttahflake actually skis. This guy just trolls from his mom's basement. He is still angry that some people enjoy small clean waves (careful VTskibum - he may fanboi you as well).

    TEXASS - is that your bird? Underbelly cage could work. Would a shorter, wider board fir inside? Thinking it would be pretty cramped regardless.

    LDD - surfed Cottons a few times. Its an easy enough read, but, like you said, a lot of folks can't read, but instead try to follow someone else read. I think I'm just missing my mom breaks a bit. High quality and fairly empty. There is one spot my buddy and I frequent, that only works under the right conditions, but when its on it kind of a perfect right. Very focused take off, just off a rock with a bare that stands up for about 25 yards into a cove, then a caravel shoulder until it hits a channel. We have never seen anyone else out there. My regular autumn spot rarely has more than 6 out. Of course town gets packed, but I only surf town when the north coast gets blown out or goes XXL plus.

    Liking the NJ stoke. Been a few decades since I've surfed down that way. Heard NE was doing well this past month. Nice thing up there are all the different aspects to surf.

    Headed back to Bali next week for the family trip. Exploring inland for a bit and then headed down to Bingin for a few days. Mid tides only while we are there. Hoping for some decent swell for my two day window, but this trip is much more family focused. Surf is secondary or tertiary.

  20. #5470
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    Otime you definitely talk way to much.... as for me not skiing? You have no clue what you are yapping about.... I dont ski.... I tour and rip... just remember that goondu.

  21. #5471
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    TEXASS - is that your bird?
    Yes, more like my Mistress . I bought it cause Im getting old and figured flying would fuel the adrenalin fix if my bones wont get me up the mountain. I know you can surf till you die in the water but I needed another fix . I like to land on dirt roads so that why the taildragger

  22. #5472
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    Thats sweet man. Lost Coast is a blast, and having plane sure makes access a hell of a lot easier. Great way to fuel the adrenalin landing on dirt roads. Are you no longer headed out to the hills? If I recall correctly you were heading up to Shasta a lot when I first landed here, as I (think) I recall reading your TRs a bit. And sure you can surf pretty much till you die, but the adrenaline load will certainly diminish as you age.

  23. #5473
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ottime View Post
    Nah, buttahflake actually skis. This guy just trolls from his mom's basement. He is still angry that some people enjoy small clean waves (careful VTskibum - he may fanboi you as well).

    TEXASS - is that your bird? Underbelly cage could work. Would a shorter, wider board fir inside? Thinking it would be pretty cramped regardless.

    LDD - surfed Cottons a few times. Its an easy enough read, but, like you said, a lot of folks can't read, but instead try to follow someone else read. I think I'm just missing my mom breaks a bit. High quality and fairly empty. There is one spot my buddy and I frequent, that only works under the right conditions, but when its on it kind of a perfect right. Very focused take off, just off a rock with a bare that stands up for about 25 yards into a cove, then a caravel shoulder until it hits a channel. We have never seen anyone else out there. My regular autumn spot rarely has more than 6 out. Of course town gets packed, but I only surf town when the north coast gets blown out or goes XXL plus.

    Liking the NJ stoke. Been a few decades since I've surfed down that way. Heard NE was doing well this past month. Nice thing up there are all the different aspects to surf.

    Headed back to Bali next week for the family trip. Exploring inland for a bit and then headed down to Bingin for a few days. Mid tides only while we are there. Hoping for some decent swell for my two day window, but this trip is much more family focused. Surf is secondary or tertiary.
    Check the wind. It's changing season so the east coast might be better.( keramas ,Sri Lanka) Or if it's small and glassy head to the south coast swell magnets with Green balls or nyang nyang.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  24. #5474
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    Will be doing. Keramas will be too far to bother, for this trip. I think Nusa Dia is as far north/east that I would travel for a surf session. If I get back in November, I might post up on the east side or head out to Lombok. Won't be the guy sitting around waiting at Desert, as that is not my thing. Limited time to get away and all that.

    October statistically is still mostly blowing out of the east, so betting on that. Also, my window is dawn, so if the swell is small, I would be heading down to the south coast and try getting out before the winds come up. Like I mentioned, no real low tides, so that opens up Nyang Nyang. When I was there last time, mornings has 0-.3m tides, and that shut down that zone, as I' not all that interested in surfing when the inshore pick up. Even if the crowds are thinner.

  25. #5475
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    Are you no longer headed out to the hills? If I recall correctly you were heading up to Shasta a lot when I first landed here, as I (think) I recall reading your TRs a bit.
    I still get out. Being from San Diego its just soooo far to the goods. One reason I bought a plane. I can get to Bishop in Half the time now. Even on a holiday friday afternoon.
    But Covid travel restrictions cost me a couple of seasons. Getting back into it this year............if there is snow

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