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  1. #5401
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    My armchair
    Posts
    4,697
    LDD, you better be in the water this morning!!!
    "... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"

  2. #5402
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    closer
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    3 weeks then I'll finally be at the emerald Isle again.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  3. #5403
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,694
    Nor cal has been firing these past few days, my closest break was the best I've seen it in the last few years Monday at sunset, all day Tuesday, and sunrise this morning. My arms are noodles and the daily 4:30am alarm for sunrise sessions are getting old, but damn has this been a good run of swell.
    Three fundamentals of every extreme skier, total disregard for personal saftey, amphetamines, and lots and lots of malt liquor......-jack handy

  4. #5404
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lakeside California
    Posts
    525
    Called in Sick Tuesday and Wednesday. Headed up to San Onofre. Long Drive form East County San Diego but worth every penny. 15 years ago I would be sitting outside at Uppers. but I have really been digging San Onofre. I guess thats what happens when you get old.
    I sat outside but still on the "Corner" where when the big sets rolled through you could make it all the way to the inside. I caught a lot of waves but 5 stand out, the ones that I stayed high on the lip and connected all the way through. Caught the biggest wave I have ridden in 5 years, again well worth the drive.
    Wednesday was about half the size but still a respectable day. caught more waves but none were anywhere near as thrilling as the bombs on Tuesday.
    man, I love those big south swells. Cant wait till the next

  5. #5405
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    In the swamp
    Posts
    10,073
    Heading to the San Diego area in August (La Jolla, Del Mar, Encinitas) and would like to take my 10 year old, whos never surfed, out to a simple, easy break. Any recs?

    Sorry if this is posted in the wrong place. Thanks!

  6. #5406
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,739
    la jolla shores or tourmaline if you're in SD. if north, there's miles of empty beach break up and down the coast if you're just pushing into whitewater.

    Down here for a long weekend for a wedding on Saturday. Was able to get in 3 long sessions Fri-Sun

    Fri: flew in, drove to grab my board in escondido then headed to carlsbad. Sat inside the peak at my favorite reef and caught a bunch of fun ones. Going from desert > paddling a 5 10 is always rough. Lasted about 90-2hours. End of that big swell was still around, and it was consistent chest high

    Sat: swell dropped, I didn't have as much time, but hit a beach break in carlsbad with some nice sandbars and caught a decent amount of waves, only 1 great. Probably only waist high

    Sun: met my cousin that lives on 33rd in newport at San O and surfed with him and his son. Spent the afternoon on the beach having a few beers and paddling out several times. Was on the 8 0 catch surf, felt like paddling a boat after 2 days on the shortboard. Waves were knee/waist high but consistent and super long rides until the tide came up a bit and killed everything off other than the peak at old mans. Like TEXAS mentioned that place is a hoot. Had to wait for like 80 minutes to get in (arrived at 10:45AM) which really sucked, but was worth it in the end.

  7. #5407
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    In the swamp
    Posts
    10,073
    ^^^thanks!

  8. #5408
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    My armchair
    Posts
    4,697
    Also, Cardiff is good for what you're looking for Noshow
    "... she'll never need a doctor; 'cause I check her out all day"

  9. #5409
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    SFCA
    Posts
    1,337
    Caught a nice left in Remanso, Nica last night as the sunset. Honestly, I've been off the board and on the work for about two years, so stoked to get a good one and get the muscles firing.

  10. #5410
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Lakeside California
    Posts
    525
    Heading to the San Diego area in August (La Jolla, Del Mar, Encinitas) and would like to take my 10 year old, who’s never surfed, out to a simple, easy break. Any recs?
    Tournamaline in PB,or....Sunset Cliffs. Its a climb down and some rocks but if you go there the waves are slow on the inside and you can actually catch smooth unbroken faces

  11. #5411
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Huh seems like I'll be greeted with full onslaught right away. We're headed to the ferry right now. Then a relaxing day on wed and then:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  12. #5412
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    here and there
    Posts
    17,154
    River rise to killer sup surf levels again.

    Saw an old river buddy which was nice.

    The sisters were serving up a shred fest.
    watch out for snakes

  13. #5413
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Swell is starting to fill in. I'll head out in an hour or 2.

    Hopefully it won't rise as quickly as predicted in the Charts...I hate nothing more than getting a stepladder Set on my head during a rising swell.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  14. #5414
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    It was fun. Yesterday. Today was driving around for surf because it was big and messy but not big enough for some spots snd top scary for me st least. and then to the hospital because the little one bumped his head.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  15. #5415
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,257
    Broke my scapula riding mountain bike back on Jul 2nd, been healing well and bike on the bike. Havent surfed since mid June, but had a great session this morning. Small, but clean and fun w some long-ish rides. Surfed ~2 hrs until tide washed it out, only 4 others in the water at a normally very busy break.



    Forecast looks pretty good tomorrow, hopefully no one shows up again!!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  16. #5416
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    In the swamp
    Posts
    10,073

    Anyone else get some today...?

    Thanks for the SD recs! We spent every day on different beaches (PB, La Jolla Shores, Moonlight, Cardiff). Mainly boogie boarded but also took a surf lesson with my daughter at Shores. Sea kayaked to the caves in LJ cove. So fun!
    Im hooked and am already wanting to go back.

  17. #5417
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,080
    Surfed all weekend down at Huntingon Pier. Fun little waves on the north side of the pier. Nothing crazy but good to be back in the water.

  18. #5418
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,257
    Forecast was bit off yesterday and today. Still was pretty decent 2 and clean for some fun.

    Tried again this morning with similar forecast, but when I got out high tide had waves crashing right on the sand. Bailed for family in the am, but got back in the water late morning. Chaos, at least hundred people in 1/4 mi spot. Got a few and was cool watching 5 y/os paddling into their own waves, but overall anarchy.

    Wish I had a picture, almost looked like one of those Wavestorm take overs


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #5419
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,105
    After being gone for about a month I got back in the water on Sunday.

    I surfed the Barbedwires/south Cottons zone and it was nuts. About a foot overhead, lined up and easy to surf. There was a bit of wind bump, I got in the water around noon, but it was really not bad. It was more consistent than I expected, without too many lulls.

    The water was in the low 70s, so easily trunkable.

    It ended up being as good of a session as I have had this summer. When that zone is right it is very easy to surf. An easy take off, drive a bottom turn into a top turn or cutback, a couple of pumps before another turn, then down the line and hit the end section where the right from Cottons finishes. It wasn't Kandui, but fun, lined-up 100 yard lefts that are easy to surf is perfect for a kook like me. When a surfer as bad as I am can drive a bottom turn and really think about pushing hard through a top turn or cutback you know the wave is very user friendly. I have had cleaner days, but the consistency and medium crowd meant I could just line up wave after wave and keep trying the same turns on the same sections.

    I stayed out for three hours and my shoulders were shot. I have been hiking and mountain biking for three weeks, so while the lungs feel good the shoulders don't. I actually don't know how I managed to stay out for as long as I did, given the fact that the consistency and length meant I was paddling a ton, but it was so good I just couldn't go in.

    Easy, overhead surf and 72 degree water. I feel lucky to live where I do.

    I will try to get in a dawn patrol tomorrow, it looks like there should be something. Friday and the weekend look decent, then another strong swell on the way for next week. After doing the amount of work I would normally do in a week over the course of a month I have a ton to do, but hopefully I'll to to go down so for the swell next week.

    Glad to see you guys have been getting some in August. I tried to avoid looking at Surfline while I was gone.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  20. #5420
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    The emersld Isle has been treating me nicely. Surfed a New spot. Righthander glassy. Felt like Indo.
    My usual spots surfed well too.Click image for larger version. 

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    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  21. #5421
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,105
    Nice shots SP!

    What's the water temp like there?
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  22. #5422
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Long duc dong View Post
    Nice shots SP!

    What's the water temp like there?
    Super warm this year. 16.5 in easky and 15.5 up north at the righthander. I surfed easky in a 3.2 without booties and didn't feel cold when it was glassy/light winds.

    Up north I had a 4 hour session in my 5.4 and booties and was still toasty at the end.

    Edit: the temp is communist Grades obviously.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

  23. #5423
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,080
    Looks awesome! Surfs like Indo but bet the water isn't like Indo lolol

  24. #5424
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    3,105
    It's pretty nuts down here right now.

    On Labor Day I surfed north of the HB pier. I paddled out around tower 16, which is pretty far north of the pier. Even there the crowd was pretty solid. The north drift was strong, and I was going left so I didn't fight it. It was about head high with good shape, but some were backing off a bit. The crowd got better around tower 22, so I would get out of the water around tower 24 and walk back to the area a bit south of tower 20. The water is nice, probably high 60s.

    Yesterday I planned a long day at Trestles, and it didn't disappoint. It was head high to a foot overhead, and fun. Some of them were backing off, but it was still good if you picked the right ones. I surfed the Barbedwires area, my go to down there, and eventually the lefts were lining up all the way to the south end of the house south of Nixon's old pad. The water was warm, and I ended up surfing for about 3.5 hours. It stayed pretty clean, and I probably could have trunked it.

    Today I had a small window early, I need to actually be productive to make up for yesterday. I went to 36th in Newport. It was pretty fun, but inconsistent and the crowd right at the jetty was stacked. I got a couple of fun ones, but was happy to get out of the water at 830 am. The water was warm once again, it was almost too warm for a spring suit at 730, which is nuts. My guess is that Trestles is bonkers today, but I'm far too busy to get down there. The indignity of not being able to make a 6 hour trip on a Wednesday!

    Hopefully I can fit in a session tomorrow. The water is warm, it is sunny and clean and the surf is pumping. These days are the reason I love it here this time of year.

    I'll try to post some Trestles shots later, hopefully the rest of you guys are getting some of this.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  25. #5425
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    2,257
    ^^ Isn't WSL going on this weekend at Lowers? Can imagine the crowds only going to be more insane, but I've never actually surfed down there.

    Slim chance I do a long dawn patrol mission to NJ if the wind forecast changes for this weekend

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