Anyone else get some today...?

**I Skied Bandini Mountain** · 12-04-2020, 10:03 PM

A friend posted this today. So clean.

**BS720** · 12-05-2020, 02:02 AM

It didn't all look like that, but still a good day. And, yes, OB can and will break boards.

**jackstraw** · 12-05-2020, 08:37 AM

OB can break your neck!

**Ottime** · 12-05-2020, 10:41 PM

Not OB, but a ledge a little hike north of scotts once hit me in the back of the neck when I tried to straighten out of the barrel. Fet like being struck by a 2x4.

Looks like Tuesday will be plus sized.

**Long duc dong** · 12-06-2020, 05:22 PM

Yesterday was an absolute blast in HB.

I surfed north of the pier, getting in at tower 18. The drift was south because of the swell direction, and I ended up getting out around tower 12 and walking back up to tower 20. It is funny how opposite things are on winter swells compared to summer.

I surfed from around 930 to around 1215. The tide was going high, to around a 5 foot high. It was about a foot overhead on sets, glassy, and REALLY fun. Some of them were walled, but the high tide meant it was not all that punchy. I got mostly lefts, they were fun on the outside, then a couple of pumps and a cutback and they would line up inside. It was not a day for a high wave count, but I will take long an lined up with a long paddle back any day of the week. It was definitely cold, at least for down here, around 57. I really like surfing HB when it is in that range, a foot overhead or so, because it is easy to surf and fun, not too punchy. You can really elongate those cut backs. An easy wave to surf for someone like me, someone who sucks. When a kook like me is getting hundred yard lefts with several top turns and cutbacks you know it is an easy wave to surf. The rights were fun too, but I was focused on going left. The current and the size of the playing field spread the crowd out well. There were a couple of bigger sets that swung through, I got clipped a couple of times, but that just keeps you honest.

I hope the rest of you guys got something out of this.

**stalefish3169** · 12-06-2020, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by Long duc dong

Yesterday was an absolute blast in HB.

I surfed north of the pier, getting in at tower 18. The drift was south because of the swell direction, and I ended up getting out around tower 12 and walking back up to tower 20. It is funny how opposite things are on winter swells compared to summer.

I surfed from around 930 to around 1215. The tide was going high, to around a 5 foot high. It was about a foot overhead on sets, glassy, and REALLY fun. Some of them were walled, but the high tide meant it was not all that punchy. I got mostly lefts, they were fun on the outside, then a couple of pumps and a cutback and they would line up inside. It was not a day for a high wave count, but I will take long an lined up with a long paddle back any day of the week. It was definitely cold, at least for down here, around 57. I really like surfing HB when it is in that range, a foot overhead or so, because it is easy to surf and fun, not too punchy. You can really elongate those cut backs. An easy wave to surf for someone like me, someone who sucks. When a kook like me is getting hundred yard lefts with several top turns and cutbacks you know it is an easy wave to surf. The rights were fun too, but I was focused on going left. The current and the size of the playing field spread the crowd out well.

I hope the rest of you guys got something out of this.

Nice dude. Sounds super fun!

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**Long duc dong** · 12-07-2020, 03:13 PM

Originally Posted by stalefish3169

Nice dude. Sounds super fun!

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For someone like me it was about as good as HB gets. Newport can be fun too, but it is steeper and faster at size.

I hope this guy is okay.

https://www.msn.com/en-us/news/us/su...2eu?li=BBnb7Kz

I don't know the Oregon coast well, but I have heard good things about Seaside.

**Ottime** · 12-07-2020, 04:14 PM

You do not want to drive to Seaside. Fly and borrow a friends car.

**Ottime** · 12-08-2020, 12:01 AM

Just stepped outside to turn off the Christmas lights. I’m about a mile fire the water. Could easily hear the breaking of individual waves. Like that sound once it gets big. Buoy reading 13.7@20 right now. Tomorrow is going to solid.

**Ottime** · 12-08-2020, 02:26 PM

16.2@20 right now. Dropping to 18s.

Kind of glad my arm already came out of the socket and let me know I needed surgery. Would hate to have it slip out as your standing up on a 25’ face.

**Long duc dong** · 12-08-2020, 06:08 PM

Originally Posted by Ottime

16.2@20 right now. Dropping to 18s.

Kind of glad my arm already came out of the socket and let me know I needed surgery. Would hate to have it slip out as your standing up on a 25’ face.

That would be very bad timing. One of the things about down here is that while it can get solid on an SW, and sometimes in the winter, it is rarely THAT big. I would not want to be out in the ocean with that kind of water and current moving around and a bad wing.

Are you implying that if I drove my Tesla with California plates to Seaside I would not be welcome?

**altacoup** · 12-08-2020, 11:39 PM

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Got these pics of the kids leg from seaside from my dad. Normally I’d say this is what the locals do to people with Cali plates. But the kid is a local kid. Heard from witnesses that the shark breached the water and came down in to him. Fucking gnarly!

**Ottime** · 12-09-2020, 09:04 AM

Holy shit. That is ducking gnarly. Vibes to that kid.

**Long duc dong** · 12-09-2020, 02:31 PM

Wow! I hope he recovers fully. That is scary.

Newport was fun this morning. I surfed the lower streets, the upper streets and HB are pretty much overloaded. I would imagine the winter spots are getting pounded. I surfed 32nd to 36th, which was fun but walled. The lefts off the jetty were great, but the crowd was thick.

**Ottime** · 12-09-2020, 03:27 PM

BTW, LDD, one of the nice things about Santa Cruz is that 10 miles west/north of town had 25’ faces on Tuesday, while tucked in spots were running waist to chest high at best. So many options here.

West cliff working when I drove by around noon today. Mitchell to John had maybe 100 guys, all spread out over 400 meters of reeling point. That is 4 meters per surfer. No bad I guess.

**jackstraw** · 12-10-2020, 08:13 AM

Whoa, that is nasty looking. I think it would take a long time for me to get back in the water without feeling freaked out.

**BS720** · 12-10-2020, 08:41 AM

Holy shit. I know we've had bigger storms than this, but the angle just seemed to tickle everything perfectly. Mav's, 25-30' faces from the water. Haven't seen pictures that looked that big, but it was solid. OB pushing past the 20' mark, deads double OH, the Point people were taking off under the bridge. The Patch even looked lined up. I was contemplating it yesterday, but my buddy is out post CABG. Plus, you really need a ski for that. And maybe even helicopter. Hope everyone stayed safe.

**Ottime** · 12-10-2020, 09:24 AM

Or a coast guard boat. The Patch is not only way out there but the currents out there are insane during any movement in tide.

Biked up to 3/4 mile and took some pics last night. Surface conditions looked a good bit more warbled than Tuesday. Still some solid well OH surf camping through. I’ll go through the camera today to see if I got anything worthy. It looked hard to line up with the chunk, but there were a few moments.

**BS720** · 12-10-2020, 11:22 AM

Originally Posted by Ottime

Or a coast guard boat. The Patch is not only way out there but the currents out there are insane during any movement in tide.

Biked up to 3/4 mile and took some pics last night. Surface conditions looked a good bit more warbled than Tuesday. Still some solid well OH surf camping through. I’ll go through the camera today to see if I got anything worthy. It looked hard to line up with the chunk, but there were a few moments.

I have been working way, way too much. Now, that's changing. I'm looking closer at swell now, and thinking about a play on Saunder's if we get another one like this.

**stalefish3169** · 12-10-2020, 11:28 AM

Fuck! Rough week. RIP.

Victim of shark attack in Maui’s Honolua Bay dies from his injuries

https://www-staradvertiser-com.cdn.a...is-injuries%2F

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**jtran10** · 12-10-2020, 02:05 PM

Not my photos but figured they were worth sharing: https://www.reddit.com/r/surfing/com..._this_morning/. 12/9/20 Blacks

**jtran10** · 12-10-2020, 02:08 PM

this lack of snow in UT has me jonesing to get out again. Was in SD over thanksgiving for some appointments (would not have traveled otherwise but have to see the Dr yearly) and got in 3 sessions. 2 in Del Mar, 1 in carlsbad. Surf was mainly waist high while I was around which was perfect for me not having surfed since June. Only had the hypto krypto and hadn't surfed that since july, 2019, but the shoulders held up surprisngly well with 3 sessions over 4 days.

Already thinking of the post-vaccine trip to baja

**BS720** · 12-10-2020, 06:27 PM

Hmm. Methinks other people on this board should trial their shoulders...

PB · 12-11-2020, 02:32 PM

Originally Posted by jtran10

Not my photos but figured they were worth sharing: https://www.reddit.com/r/surfing/com..._this_morning/. 12/9/20 Blacks

Went to UCSD 1969-71, pretty much had Blacks all to our selves, even on really good days like that. Studies definitely suffered; had to transfer to the Central Valley to salvage my academic career.

**Long duc dong** · 12-14-2020, 11:13 PM

Originally Posted by PB

Went to UCSD 1969-71, pretty much had Blacks all to our selves, even on really good days like that. Studies definitely suffered; had to transfer to the Central Valley to salvage my academic career.

Wow!

I can only imagine what it would have been like back then.

At UCSB it seemed like the first big NW swell would arrive during fall finals. In fact, I think that happened every year I was there. Literally.

Friday morning was really fun in Newport. I surfed 36th street, and while it was not epic, only shoulder high, it was only me and one other guy at the jetty getting clean lefts. The better ones were about 100 yards. Any jetty session in Newport where you get that is rare. When you can actually pick which set wave you want, and you let some decent ones go by, you know you are lucky.