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  1. #5351
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,992
    I have only had a few sessions since late November due to being busy, skiing and lack of swell.

    It has picked back up of late.

    I got in a really nice late morning session at 32nd street. I really love the lower jetties during the winter. When HB and River Jetties are too big/walled the lower jetties can be shoulder high with great shape and some push. That size is actually one of my favorite for Newport. There was a group at the jetty, but there were fun peaks between the two jetties that weren't too crowded. It was the first really fun session I have had in a while. I really wish the upper Newport streets still got this good on the peaks not right at the jetty. It seems now that for the upper streets if you are not right at a jetty it is just a wall. The non-jetty sand bars for the lower streets are still fun.

    The water is cold, even for winter, probably 57. I imagine the dawn patrol session this morning was not easy. I was cold even with the sun.
    "Have you ever seen a monk get wildly fucked by a bunch of teenage girls?" "No" "Then forget the monastery."


    "You ever hear of a little show called branded? Arthur Digby Sellers wrote 156 episodes. Not exactly a lightweight." Walter Sobcheck.

    "I didn't have a grandfather on the board of some fancy college. Key word being was. Did he touch the Filipino exchange student? Did he not touch the Filipino exchange student? I don't know Brooke, I wasn't there."

  2. #5352
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Cruzing
    Posts
    11,299
    It has been pretty non stop up here since early January. Some days have been fantastic, and others interesting. Nothing dull. But I want some more snow.

  3. #5353
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    getting warmer...
    Posts
    430
    I so enjoy surf stories. It's great when you're the one living it.
    Took a fun little drive down the coast yesterday to camp for the night at San Elijo.

    I had looked at the cam in the morning from Ventura, saw a DO set come down the point that burned itself into my eyes- offshore rainbows streaming off the back of a 200 yard long wall of glassy water- it was so beautiful. Nostalgic place for me, where surfing finally came together in my life. I was a little sad not to be heading up there, but excited to see how it would hit San Diego.

    Heading down the 5, the two second view of Church from the bridge was epic. Best wave I've ever seen there, love again at first sight. We were like 'oh dang' maybe we blew it not pulling off to surf here... But 80 mph Southbound and no u-turn for miles.

    Grabbed burritos in O Side, shoutout to homemade tortillas off the grill, unexpected but appreciated. Got down to Encinitas and wanted to show my kid Swami's. Spot opened up right as we pulled in the little lot, so we watched for a bit.

    Funny how waves change in your imagination as you progress in level. Swami's used to be my dream wave, just out of reach. Today it was on all accounts firing. 6-8 foot and clean. But it looked kinda boring in all honesty. Lumpy and not much down the line. So we passed, again.

    Got to the campground, pull in to the lucky last minute cancellation beachfront view site. Hippy shit show in full flow next door, they have two old VW buses and three dogs and the dead sounds like its going to play all night. It did. By nine that night my sixteen year old daughter turns to me and says, you know, I like the Dead. Definitely didn't force that one on her.

    Run to check the surf and its a mess. Wind is really getting at it, surprisingly more than just up the cove at Swami's. Flags are flying straight ahead. I'm over it. It looks cold, and choppy, and a disorganized mess. I play hacky sack instead. Sunset from the bluff was a treat. I made the right choice.

    Surf's pounding all night, most swell I remember seeing in my years of camping here. There's the faintest Santa Ana flow so the stars are out, and I'm feeling really optimistic about the morning. We burn bowls by the fire, BBQ steak to eat with the tortillas and salsa, and jam some music. Jerry wasn't going to slow down so we tried to just vibe in, but the bamboo flutes blended strange with the jams. Late night rally to Seaside to grab snacks and then the coals of the fire finally gave out.

    Booming lullaby of crashing waves all night lulled me to sleep nicely. Woke up feeling fresh, palm trees are leaning offshore, and the sun is shining. 5-7 foot and offshore glass. Some mornings are coffee only but today was 'just get in the water'. Food can wait.

    I was stoked to surf this mini-simmons 'wegner' shaped out of Encinitas by John Wegner. My lady found it between the furniture at the local thrift store, with a busted leash plug and a bargain price. I brought it down to Terry Senate's shop and he fixed the plug (another story about that character and the san clemente surf ghetto). Surfing makes some real people, that's for sure. I admire the guys who found their little niche making boards and fueling the dream.

    So the Wegner got to paddle out back in its home water, easy paddle out through the lines, almost a bit of a channel working on the reef, which is surprising with the size swell. Weird day for wildlife with tons of gulls and pelicans crashing everywhere, so much feeding going on you could smell the fish in the air from the lineup.

    Conditions were pristine. Nice ramps into steep walls, just fun easy living surfing. The mini-simmons rips up and down the face, little pumps generating speed everywhere without losing flow. Got a few gooooooood long ones, long enough where the paddle back up top gives you time to soak it all in.

    It was cold. I know, not SC cold, but my wetsuit is more flexible than warm and the 57 degree water stung. I surfed till I was shivering all over. Rode one in all the way to the beach, stepped off into ankle deep water. A beautiful lady had steak and eggs with hot coffee ready to go for me at the top of the stairs. Magic.

    Surfing is Rad.

  4. #5354
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    risin up to paradise...
    Posts
    280
    ^^^That was a great read, thanks for posting! I love San Elijo, and it's played a big part in my surf journey. Sounds like such a great time and it has me wishing for a visit.

    We all probably have a few waves that stick out in our memory banks. One of mine is from a sunset solo session there several years ago...

    Driving home from 2 months in Baja, while waiting in the border line at Tecate, (there is wifi available in line). Pull up forecast for Cardiff and see that the waves are looking good but the sun is dropping fast on this December day. As a somewhat seasonal surfer I was still frothing for water time before settling in for winter ski season.

    The border line creeped and I finally breezed through while estimating I would have about 30 minutes in the water if it worked out. The drive along 94 is slow and winding and I raced through SoCal traffic hoping to make it. I parked and suited quickly for the last rays of light and paddled out while the 2 remaining surfers rode their last waves in.

    The sun dropped and the sky, clouds, and water went through the most amazing pastel color scene I ever witnessed. I caught 3 waves that were electric purple and pink that pushed silently across the reef. It pretty much blew my mind. With the darkness, it was hard to see the approaching lumps, and as a struggling intermediate, the head high+ waves were at my skill and comfort level at the time. As the waves stood they picked up the remaining light and made for an amazing end to my surf session and season, I finally felt a little more confident and it pushed me to my next level.

    Finish that with a trip to Seaside Market for some Cardiff crack and a cold beverage from the well stocked cooler and it's as good as it gets.

    Back to the present, the surf in NorCal and the bars at our normally shitty beach break are in pretty decent shape right now. Head high consistently with light wind and nice temps. Upper 50's, would be a warm day here! Water has been 50-52 and pretty nice overall...I was hoping to go this week, today looks fantastic but I'm going to ski textured winter corn instead...

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